Category Archives: Blog

Hunts Hill Farm and Farm Shop

Normandy Common Lane, Normandy, Guildford, GU3 2AP

The upside: Hand reared free-range meat on a Surrey Farm

The downside: Larger joints of meat must be ordered in advance

The flipside: You can buy direct from the farm shop if you miss a market

There is nothing quite as British or evocative as the aroma of freshly roasted pork or grilled sausages on the street. I moved to Guildford in 2005 after living abroad for ten years and had little time to do any research over getting my kids into school. One Tuesday shortly after arriving I was walking to the high street past the George Abbot Memorial and little by little the aroma of roasted pork and a BBQ intensified, this was my introduction to Guildford’s monthly Farmers Market. On arrival it was apparent that Hunts Hill Farm were responsible for the wonderful aroma.

In addition to selling rolls with freshly roasted pork and their award winning sausages they also sell prepared cuts of their home reared meat. I have been buying their poultry, goat, lamb, veal and sausages at markets they sell at ever since (full list on their website) The bulk of their business is at these markets and they are regulars at eight, BBQ’s however are only at some of these.

We are blessed in Surrey to have a few really good local meat producers with smallholdings who sell directly to the public via small shops or farmers markets and this is one. Based in Normandy, Hunts Hill Farm is owned by Georgina and John Emerson. Not as you would think from a family of farmers but an ex Interior Designer and Garage owner. Theirs is a story which could have been modeled on the seventies TV series the ‘Good Life’ and I imagine from meeting them with as much fun and comedy on the way.

Having decided to make a huge lifestyle change and a move to the country they bought a farm that had run into trouble and needed an injection of energy to get it back on its feet. First off John did an agricultural course at Merrist Wood to get himself on the right track. Georgina made their temporary mobile home comfortable while they planned their new farmhouse on the site. The small farm shop was built on site and this also houses the butchery and sausage production unit. Slowly they built up their livestock. In addition to saddleback pigs, goats and Aberdeen Angus and poultry they also have laying hens, geese and ducks. All free range and with lots of space, this is the home of happy animals.

Like many smallholders the best way to make a living is by selling via popular farmers markets. Georgina and John love meeting their customers and have built up a strong following. They take their meat to market, ready cut and vacuum packed with a good shelf life. Sadly the meat doesn’t look so great packed this way but its quality in eating that’s the real moniker here. I have never had a duff joint or sausage from Hunts Hill in fact the leg of goat I had from them was a dinner party centerpiece. It was only recently that I realized that Hunts Hill also had a small farm shop and bed and breakfast on site too.

I made a much overdue visit to the farm in late April. On a private road it’s signposted from the junction but caution here as the shop is only open from Wednesday – Saturday. At the end of the road you arrive at the farm and its arrival reminded me of the description in the ‘Darling Buds of May’. Rustic and ramshackle, but in a friendly welcoming way and like all the places I visit with its own distinct personality. The farm shop is small but with enough ingredients for shoppers to put a meal together. The butcher’s display is the main attraction here of course and meat is sold fresh and frozen. Choose from small joints ready to go or order larger joints in advance to avoid disappointment. The meat is all reared on the farm (apart from the rose veal which comes from a farm in Horsell Common) and the animals travel a short distance to an abattoir in Farnborough before returning to the farm where butcher Peter expertly prepares the meat for sale.

To compliment the meat, a small range of vegetables, sauces, chutney’s and of course freshly laid geese, duck and hens eggs are on offer here too. The ducks eggs looked so inviting, large, white and so freshly laid I bought half a dozen (see recipe). They came with a large white feather too! Strawberries in the shop were from Tuesley farm who grow berries on their 459 acre site in Godalming. They are famed for their fruit and Georgina ripped open a pack of strawberries to sample. New season they smell and taste sensational and its good to note that they also stock Meadow Cottage Farm raw untreated cream (an absolute delight) and ice cream too. Perfect with strawberries.

Their free-range pork is also the star of their award winning sausages. They currently have over thirty recipes in their repertoire, which they make on a rolling basis. Expect at least eight of these on offer at any one time. Mary  (pictured above) in in charge of sausage production and has been working with the Emerson’s for seventeen years. She told me that some of their prize winners include pork, apple and maple syrup, apple and black pudding, beef and guiness and beef chilli and chocolate. I decided on a pack of hot Spanish with smoked paprika. I enjoyed these with my family that evening. They were succulent, spicy and soft textured, perfect.

Georgina kindly took me into their farmhouse, which is also home to the two rooms they let out for their bed and breakfast business. Here is a glimmer into the previous world of interior design that the lady of the house inhabited. Rich colours, large comfortable sofas it’s a really fabulous space. The bedrooms for guests are off the main reception area and have their own private bathroom. Comfortable and well furnished they also look over the back garden with rolling hills in the backdrop.

 

As I was leaving we went to see the pigs who were in a field next to the house. There were two pregnant sows and a very satisfied looking boar. Taking my leave a farm helper handed Georgina a goose egg that had just been laid. I got a chance to hold this warm perfectly formed giant egg, it was a touching moment for a city girl like me.

This is a classic example of a small producer bringing high quality produce to the market and selling directly to the public. If you like me are interested in the provenance of the food you eat it doesn’t get much better than this.

www.huntshillfarm.com

I bought half a dozen ducks eggs on my visit. Find out what I did with them here.

 

 

Redber Coffee

Merrow Depot, Merrow Lane, Guildford, GU4 7BQ

The upside: Expertly sourced green coffee beans roasted to order in Surrey to buy direct or online

The downside: The on-site cafe is very small

The flipside: Buy an online coffee subscription for a gift that keeps giving (you choose how long for)

I often rave about delightful journeys down leafy lanes to access great producers hidden away in Surrey but this is different. To get to this coffee roaster it’s a six-minute drive from my house near Stoke Park in Guildford. Arriving at a trading estate next to the railway it’s a complete surprise to find an independent coffee business thriving here. Of course once inside it makes complete sense, as it’s a warehouse, roaster, packing and retail unit all housed under, one roof. As you enter to the left there is a seating area in front of a counter where you can order coffee. Choose from any of the current range they have roasted that day. Have a chat first about the style of coffee you prefer and nothing is too much trouble to match your drinking preferences with your final brew. Beyond the counter where drinks are dispatched lay sacks of open green beans ready for roasting. Beside this are four coffee roasters, which including the first two kilo machine this start-up invested in five years ago.

Founders Graham and Petra had a strong interest in coffee and after completing a coffee-roasting course in Scotland they decided to start their own business. With just one two kilo, capacity machine they honed their craft in a cold, reclaimed shed in their first Merrow Depot site in 2012. Perfecting their skills they started to sell coffee online and direct to a constant dribble of informed customers. Their growing list of single origin coffees were it seemed of interest to many consumers looking for delicious coffee which hadn’t lost its identity in commercial style processing. Large roasters provide large quantities of beans to their retailers by blending beans and subjecting them to a single roasting recipe. The resulting coffee lacks personality and is often quite bland plus as a money saving exercise they use a smaller weight dose for each drink. Smaller companies like Redber can avoid this and provide a customised roast for each new bean, which compliments its unique flavour profile rather than damaging it.

Today the business in its larger unit is buzzing (the old site has been updated and is their storeroom for beans and supporting products). Currently the business has several strands which all fund their growing team of ten members of staff and bigger home. First there is the retail side of the business, which features sales direct to the consumer. You can drop into Redber, have a coffee and buy your beans whole or ground or purchase online. Roasting beans to order here for their online business means there will always be a few kilos available for drop in sales (highly recommended) and perfect if like me you live close by. It’s Redbers policy in terms of quality that beans are dispatched to their customers the day it’s roasted giving you a good month of life. After this the quality starts to decline. I was told quite clearly that freezing or refrigerating beans is not a good idea as it causes condensation, which damages the coffee. Storage should take place in an airtight tin in a cool dry location.

For retail customers coffee subscriptions are also a popular buy. There are various options for this and these deals make the perfect gift for Christmas, Birthdays and other events. I bought my significant other a ‘Surprise Me’ subscription for part of his Christmas offering. He loves the fact that it continues for 12 months and that every month a pack of carefully sourced and roasted beans arrive in the mail. We have tried an astonishing range of coffees from Redber so far that we wouldn’t have had the knowledge to choose ourselves or indeed access too if we had stuck to supermarket offerings. Other subscriptions include choosing your coffee by origin or blend and by roast profile. Going away? you can pause your next date or change frequency of delivery. This flexibility isn’t found with other similar services so it’s a great selling point here.

For those new to fresh coffee brewing at home they have a comprehensive range of coffee makers, which they will happily guide you through. To compliment these; grinders, storage canisters and filters are also on offer. In addition to this Redber also runs tasting and cupping courses. It’s a great introduction to the fine art of coffee and an insight to how coffee is tasted and graded by buyers before purchase. Important, as the taste of coffee varies so much between plantations, geographical locations, altitude, levels of light and shade it helps set the price the coffee will sell for.

For commercial customers there are a variety of options too. Larger bag sizes, bean to cup machines, maintenance products and expertise and advice. It’s clear from its small beginning this company has slowly grown to be a major provider of quality coffee in the area. There are other roasters in Surrey too and even more online so they have to stay competitive to survive. This they seem to do extremely well. Their ethos of roasting, packing and despatching in one day is admirable and gives them a unique selling point.

This is a welcoming enterprise that clearly loves their product and it’s really intriguing to see coffee from so many different countries all under one roof. Our last bag that arrived was a Brazil Santos described as being full bodied, sweet with low acidity with a smooth finish. Coming from the lighter range of roasts (our preference) it delivered on all counts. But on my last visit I could also see coffee from Panama, Sumatra, Columbia, Ethiopia and Uganda. Talia who was showing me around commented on the Redbers commitment to work with charities that are associated with coffee too particularly Ugandan Bukonzo.

It turns out that a local charity based in Shalford just outside Guildford was looking for a local roaster. Getting in touch in 2013 Alison the founder was looking for a company to roast her Ugandan Bukonzo coffee beans. Her charity ‘Seeds for Development’ helps farmers plant coffee on land shared with them. Each farmer gets half and acre to grown coffee on and a starter pack of 100 coffee seedlings. The project has already achieved some of its founding aims by building a school and a toilet block for the farmers children. The children have meals cooked for them on site and the school has 320 pupils and six teachers. Redber is proud to have been involved with this project buy giving a proportion of the sale price of each bag of Ugandan Bukonzo coffee to the charity.

 

This is a friendly coffee loving business with real expertise in their delivery of fantastic end product. Go for a first visit and you’ll be offered a 125g bag to take home and sample but its impossible not to go back for more. It’s a brilliant way to buy coffee as its open kitchen style presentation and intoxicating aroma of freshly roasted bean activity provides the perfect backdrop while you savour a fresh brew. My blog is all about independents and this is a perfect example of one that has got all the elements right.

Go and see for yourself its worth the trip!

This article first appeared in Essence of Surrey Magazine in March 2017 for whom I write a monthly column on local artisan food producers.

 

15 Minute Jam

The classic ratio for jam is an equal amount of jam to sugar. This is for a classic jam that can be stored at ambient temperatures and will last for months. If you like a lower sugar jam use half the amount of sugar to fruit. Remember though it will have to be stored in a refrigerator after its cooled and used within 2-3 weeks and it will have a runnier consistency. If you think making jam involves huge vats of boiling fruit take a fresh look. Making jam in small batches is quick, stress free and its ready to use as soon as it cools down. In the time it takes to bake and  cool a classic Victoria sponge you could have made your own jam for the middle! Use this recipe for stone fruit, berries and currants.

Download a printable version of the recipe 15 minute jam

300g fresh or defrosted Berries (strawberries, raspberries, tayberries or a mix)
gooseberries, blackcurrants and stone fruits will work here too
300g jam sugar (this has added pectin which helps the jam to set)
Juice of I fresh lemon

Place the berries in a thick-based saucepan and add the sugar and lemon juice. While it is coming up to the boil turn the oven on low. Put 1 large or 2 medium jam jars in a tray in a couple of centimetres of water with the lids by the side Place in the oven to sterilise the jars. As the fruit comes to the boil, stir regularly until it reaches a rolling boil Don’t have the heat up too high as it will boil over but you want it to be visibly bubbling. It should take around 10-15 minutes to reach a syrupy texture (longer if you are using less sugar). When the jam is ready, remove the jars from the oven and spoon in the jam. Allow to cool (I usually cover mine with a sheet of paper towel) or used waxed paper circles. Once cooled put on the lids. Low sugar jam will need to be stored in the refrigerator and should last for up to three weeks.

Gooseberry, Rhubarb and Elderflower jam

I love making small batches of preserves when I have ripe fruit in the garden. Jam making this way is easy, stress free, and an incredibly satisfying hour of creativity. My gooseberry bushes were re-sited this year and I thought the trauma would kill the yield. In fact they actually they blossomed in their new home and a bumper crop is ready to pick. Right next to the gooseberries the rhubarb was also ready to cut so I decided to combine three early summer flavours in my first jam of the new season. Here it is; it’s heady with the aroma of elderflowers, tart from the gooseberries and with a pink glow from the rhubarb. I saved a handful of gooseberries and rhubarb to chuck into the last five minutes of cooking to add a little chunkiness but if you prefer a smoother finish put all the fruit in at the same time.

I give amounts here and use the classic ratio of the same weight in sugar as the fruit. That means there is no pressure on how much you make and it always works. I use jam sugar that has pectin added but actually gooseberries have their own but as I was adding other fruit it helps. If you want a lower sugar jam, use 50g sugar to every 100g fruit. It will be a little runnier and you must keep it in the fridge and use it up in three weeks.

Download a printable pdf of the recipe Gooseberry, Rhubarb and Elderflower jam .

Before you start cooking just heat the oven to 100°C. Take an oven proof dish and put around 2 cm of water in the bottom. Place your jam jars in the tray and leave in the oven to sterilise while you make the jam. Lids can be placed in a mixing bowl and covered with boiling water from the kettle.

250g gooseberries, topped and tailed (you can do this with scissors)
150g rhubarb, cut into 1 cm chunks
200ml clear apple juice or water
3-4 heads of elderflowers (or add a few spoons of elderflower cordial)
400g jam sugar
4 tablespoons elderflower cordial

Place the fruit and juice in a medium size heavy based saucepan. Lay the elderflowers on top and allow to infuse, while you bring the mixture to the boil. As soon as it boils turn off the heat and leave for 10 minutes. Remove and discard the elderflowers and add the sugar to the pan. Bring to the boil for 10-15 minutes or until the mixture has thickened and looks syrupy then stir in the elderflower cordial. If you have a jam thermometer handy you are looking for 105°C. I never use one and don’t regret it! Allow the jam to cool for 10 minutes before pouring the jam into the jars.Leave the jam to cool covered with some kitchen paper. Cover the jam with waxed paper circles and cover with sterilised dry lids.

This recipe was first published in Essence of Surrey Magazine.

Spring Asparagus and Courgette Flower Scarpaccia

Spring Asparagus and Courgette Flower Scarpaccia

When I was at Hunts Hill Farm Shop there was a magnificent basket of newly laid duck eggs. Larger than normal and just laid, a few had to be mine. I bought half a dozen unsure where they would end up; a cake had been on the cards. With a box of courgette flowers at home, I did a little bit of research and found this delicious sounding Italian dish called Scarpaccia. A vegetable traybake covered in a cheesy batter and baked with fresh thyme and chilli. Normally made with courgettes I adapted the recipe for asparagus and used the courgette flowers too. I know these are wonderful stuffed with ricotta and fried but I am not a big fan of food cooked in oil. This bake is simple and alarmingly effective for something that is so easy to prepare. When just baked its quite delicate but it firms as it cools. Perfect for lunch with salad, for picnics or as part of a buffet. I am serving mine tonight, in small squares to go with pre-dinner drinks.

300g fine speared asparagus, *snap off the tender spears
1 red onion, very finely sliced
4 cloves garlic, crushed
1 dessertspoon extra virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons fresh thyme, finely chopped
1 generous sprinkle of chilli flakes
10-12 Courgette (male flowers) remove petals for use and discard the stems (optional due to short season and availability)
200g Self Raising gluten free flour (I used Doves Farm)
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
6 duck eggs
200ml milk
100g crumbled feta cheese
50g grated parmesan or pecorino cheese
Some extra virgin olive oil, for drizzling

A baking tin 22cm x 32cm lined with silicone non-stick baking paper – traditionally this is made in a larger flat tray (swiss roll size) but I decided to go a bit deeper frittata style.

Pre-heat the oven to 180°C/160°C Fan / Gas Mark 4

Scatter the Asparagus on the baking sheet. Mix the sliced onion and garlic in a spoon of oil before together scattering on top. Arrange in even but not-too-organized layer and sprinkle with chilli flakes and courgette flower petals. Combine flour and seasoning in a mixing bowl.   In another large mixing bowl, whisk up, the eggs and milk. Whisk the dry ingredients into the eggs and stir in the Parmesan cheese then pour batter evenly over the asparagus all the way to the edges of the pan. Crumble with feta and drizzle with a little EVOO. Bake in the oven for 20-30 minutes until golden and puffed.

Delicious served warm or cold. Great for picnics, lunches with salad or cut into cubes to serve with drinks.

  • If you hold the asparagus in your hand and bend it, it will break naturally where the woody part starts. If you are using very fine asparagus you wont need to do this.

Download a printable version of the recipe Spring Asparagus and Courgette Flower Scarpaccia.

The Plough Inn, Brewery and Village Shop

The Plough Inn, Brewery and Village Shop, Coldharbour, Surrey RH5 6HD

The upside: A historic pub bought back to life in a thriving community

The downside: Purely selfish; but its a hike from where I live

The flipside: A perfect feel good destination in the heart of Surrey

A 17th century Inn with its own brewery, a local food menu and a carefully stocked village shop, may sound too good to be true. But read on and be prepared to put this venue on your ‘to go to’ list.

The Plough Inn is located in Coldharbour, a small village with 250 residents; it has one bus a day, which leaves at 10am and the nearest shop is 5 miles away. Dating back to the 1700’s The Plough Inn had by 2015 had lost its shine and most of its reputation and was in dire need of some tender loving care. Put up for sale the pub was bought by local entrepreneur Richard Eshelby who used the pub regularly during the shooting season and didn’t want to see it close. Forming a company to manage his new asset he bought in John (an IT consultant and his wife Becky to run the business) a great plan as they are also shareholders and have a vested interest in making this business a success.

The new team started in mid September 2015 and traded whilst they formed a refurbishment plan. As part of that, they had, a vision to re-instate the village shop and keep the onsite Leith Hill Brewery open too. Today the inn has had a complete refit with six attractively furnished rooms, a new kitchen and landscaped garden and addition of a village shop. Its heart warming to see how much detail and attention has gone into the reinvention of this business, which today is central to village life.

This is a story of three parts; the Inn, Leith Hill Brewery and the village shop. Intertwined of course but each lending additional purpose.

The Inn was already on the radar of CAMRA who say this is the only pub in the South East who brew their own beer exclusively for their customers. Made on site in small batches twice a month they produce 10 firkins (around 400 litres). This process takes around a month to brew, ferment and condition in their cellars before its ready to sell. There are three beers made on site by Antoine Josser from Westcott and local resident Mark Chapman. Not all are available all year round but the day I visited Crooked Furrow and Surrey Puma (a seasonal stout) were on tap. They also have a an American pale ale called Smilers Happiness, named after a much loved local John Steele who died of cancer in March 2016. In dedication to him the Inn conceived the idea of a beer in his name.

In addition to their own brews, this free house sells beers from other local breweries such as Fools Gold from Tillingbourne and a selection from Hogs Back. Whilst as a free house they don’t have to buy any national branded beers they have found that lager drinkers are more fickle so you’ll find Carlsberg and St Miguel on tap plus one from a more local brewery Firebird. They also have an eclectic range of new wave local gins such as Silent Pool, Brighton & Gutsy Monkey (made in nearby Dorking).

On the pub menu the focus is on local and seasonal food. The core menu changes four times a year but is supplemented with a specials board. This John stressed, really is for specials and they often test run dishes here before placing them on the new seasons menu. Much of what is on offer here is made on site. What isn’t comes from suppliers such as local artisan bakers Chalk Hills of Reigate, and meat from award winning Rawlings of Cranleigh. Eating lunch with a friend recently we shared a starter of game, apricot and gherkin terrine served with home made chutney and warm (great attention to detail here) Chalk Hills fig and walnut bread (£7.50) .

For mains I went for local producer Ravi Ollies beetroot and feta ravioli pasta with a fresh cream and dill sauce (£10.95) while my dining partner opted for home made chicken pie, gravy, mash and vegetables (£11.95). We loved the food, it was full of flavour, carefully prepared and with sensible portions. The pie was served with a selection of fresh vegetables and we felt the food represented good hospitality at a fair price. Although we were fairly stuffed we felt it would be rude not to sample a dessert and chose the coffee crème brulee served with shortbread and Caroline’s Dairy chocolate ice-cream (£6.50). This combination was a huge hit and so delicious that we ate the lot. All made on site apart from the ice cream (from local producer Caroline’s Dairy)  this was a brûlée to remember for its presentation, taste and texture. After coffee from local roaster Coffee Real we went to take a look around the shop.

The shop, which was the final element of the business to open in October 2016, was envisioned for both locals and visitors alike. The last village shop in Coldharbour closed its doors in 1982 forcing locals to shop in nearby Dorking. Sadly over the last few years Dorking has become so busy that parking at certain times is a challenge if not impossible. This, locals say, makes having a shop on the doorstep again all the more appealing. It’s amazing how much stock a small shop can carry. Stocking a wonderful range of products from basics (toothpaste and washing up liquid) to gourmet artisan cheeses, chocolate and seaweed mayonnaise is all down to thoughtful curation.

Becky’s mum Sue, who clearly has, a natural affinity for food retailing, is at the helm here. Energetic, lively and clearly passionate about her new venture she has filled the shop with a superb range of complimentary food and ingredients. Surrey Cheese, Norbury Blue is here (and on the pub menu) as is Burwash Rose from East Sussex. In the freezer you will find ready meals from Surrey Spice, Pasta from Ravi Ollie and ice cream from Caroline’s Dairy. Gourmet pies come from Toms Pies in Devon and meat stuffed sausage rolls and pasties from Rawlings Butchers in Cranleigh. Bread comes from artisan bakery Chalk Hills and a craft bakery in Cranleigh.

For cyclists and walkers a couple of stools in the shop window are a great place to sip a Barista Coffee and enjoy a homemade cake if you don’t fancy a full meal in the pub. While I was sitting there a local smallholder arrived with a tray of free-range eggs from his chickens. I also met some walkers from Holland who were committed to coming back for another visit. The positivity that this business has given to the village and wider community is evident and another good reason to veer off the high street and into the Surrey hills.

www.ploughinn.com

This review first appeared in the March Issue of Essence of Surrey Magazine. I was invited to dine at the Plough by the owners on the understanding that I only publish reviews if I can really recommend the experience. I loved everything about it!

 

 

Surrey Spice

The upside: Delicious authentic Indian curries hand made by chef and storyteller Mandira who grew up on a tea plantation in her native India

The downside: No turning back after trying these dishes

The flipside: Available from farm shops and independent food retailers in Surrey

Mandira Sarkar is the creative force behind Surrey Spice. A management consultant, she worked in the public sector for many years helping organisations become more streamlined and productive. After her last large project with Guildford Borough Council ended, Mandira felt is was time to stand back and do something creative and more hands on. A love of her family’s cuisine and treasured handed down recipes inspired her to launch a calendar of pop up supper clubs. I was invited to one of the first she hosted with some other local food writers. Her supper clubs are all themed by festivals and ours for the evening was Holi the festival of colours. We were treated to a fabulous evening of Indian food and storytelling. The dishes were pure bliss, no overpowering chili hit, absolutely no puddles of oil just fragrant aromatic spices and complimentary textures. The desserts were amazing too. However whilst the food was as good as anything I have eaten in Singapore’s Little India (perhaps even better) it was really the delightful rhetoric from Mandira during the meal that made the evening sparkle.

A natural host Mandira embellished our evening with background information of each dish, a family party, watching her mother in the kitchen or a snippet of information about the festival. Holi commemorates the victory of good over evil, which culminates in the burning and destruction of a female demon named Holika.

Holi got its name as the “Festival of Colors” from Lord Krishna, a reincarnation of Lord Vishnu, who liked to play pranks on the village girls by drenching them in water and coloured powdered paint. The festival always held at the end of February or early March also marks the start of summer season. By the end of the evening the food entwined with vivid descriptions we almost felt we had been there ourselves. If Dev Patel had danced into the room none of us would have been at all surprised.

This was in February 2015 and I have followed Mandira on social media seeing her business grow. Supper clubs, while great for the guests are hard work and difficult to make a living from but great for getting your expertise recognised. Mandira had also started to offer take away food for pick up on Fridays from her home in Guildford too. Her supper clubs have popped up at local award winning distillery Silent Pool with Bollywood themed evenings and at Cellar Wines in Ripley, boutique wine shop and deli with a full events calendar. Cookery courses and bespoke catering are also on offer. In fact this entrepreneur has been so active that she has also been a finalist at the Surrey Life Food & Drink Awards for Food Innovation.

More recently Mandira decided the time was right to sell her freezer ready meals to farm shops and delicatessens. Making these fresh to order she delivers either fresh or ready frozen and she already has a keen following. There are so many Indian ready meals in supermarkets that Mandira fully supports her retailers by offering tasting events. These are a huge success as once bitten its difficult to resist the charms of these authentic dishes. After trying them myself I was delighted to get the opportunity to see them being made and hopefully get some trade secrets.

I arrived on a cold morning to watch the magic happen in this Surrey kitchen. Mandira has managed to find a lady from Goa to help her prepare her wonderful dishes and another helper was on hand to help pack. On arrival the kitchen was in full production, huge wooden spoons were used to stir giant pans of dhal and Dhania Kugu Murgh (chicken with cashew nuts and coriander). A curious machine was whirring on the work surface and from the aroma I could tell I was in curry nirvana. I was astonished at the amount of detail that goes into the dishes. No jar of Balti curry paste has ever been welcome in this kitchen. Instead the dishes are all authentic regional recipes which are made exactly as they would be in Indian homes. Mandira explains that dishes like tandoori chicken masala don’t exist in India but her dishes Xacutti chicken and Meen Moilee do.

I watched the Dhania Kagu Murgh (chicken in a delicate sauce of cashews, coriander and coconut) being created from chopped skinless chicken thigh meat, fresh coconut and coriander . Thigh meat is a preferred cut for traditionalists as its more tender and juicy than chicken breast ( a sentiment I found when I lived in Taiwan too). The curious whirring machine it turns out is a stone grinder for spices. Used in modern Indian kitchens and powered by electricity, Mandira had it bought to the UK by a friend in her suitcase. The only recognisable part of this machine is the name Prestige but its essential for the texture it creates when it grinds ingredients. In the machine I witnessed fried onions being ground with fresh coconut. The resulting pulp seasons and thickens the gravy. Using fresh coconut is essential says this chef whose attention to detail is emerging fully here. It is apparently, this way can you recreate the level of flavour and texture desired in the dish.

After this dish was made a second went into production Chicken Xacutti for whom a whole bowl of Kashmiri red chilli that had been steeped in water was ground with coconut too. A batch of Lehsuni Dal (yellow lentils cooked in caramelised garlic) was ready to portion up but first we sampled a small bowl each. Satisfying, spicy, smooth and aromatic it’s a delight to find such brilliant Indian food being made locally. Mandira sources her ingredients from a local Indian food retailer who also has a butchers counter so her business supports other local food businesses too. Currently there are ten dishes available in the ready meal range one of which is a Paneer (Indian cottage cheese) cooked in spinach which is the best I have ever tried.

 

I highly recommend these new freezer ready meals. They are beautifully cooked in small batches in a spotlessly clean kitchen. The effort and expertise that goes into their production is hard to beat and the recipes are totally authentic. In addition they are all gluten free and contain no preservative. Its just really good food!

Mandira’s amazing food is currently for sale in several farm shops in Surrey and a full list can be found on the Surrey Spice website.

www.surreyspice.com

Tel: 07876135096

Email info@surreyspice.com

Butternut Squash & Feta Pie

I wrote this recipe to accompany as article I wrote for Essence Magazine about the Plough Inn in Coldharbour near Dorking in Surrey. They have some pies on their seasonal menu and also to sell in their small but perfectly stocked village shop. Sometimes pie fillings for me are a bit gloopy so I decided to use roasted butternut squash in mine and instead of a sauce or gravy I used creme fraiche. This worked really well and the resulting tart is now a family favourite. Its satisfying, tasty and perfect for entertaining non meat eaters. I finished my pie with pastry leaves using a maple leaf cutter I have in my rather large collection. I always used the excuse that I needed to buy different cutters for food styling which was really only half true.

1 butter nut squash (approx 750g), peeled and flesh cut into 1-2 cm chunks
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 teaspoon hot smoked paprika
A pinch smoked Maldon sea salt
2 medium red onions, peeled and finely chopped
1x200g pack feta cheese, crumbled
2 tablespoons crème fraiche
1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh thyme
A handful of chia or poppy seeds to garnish

I x 375g pack ready-rolled short crust pastry (feel free to make your own here I usually do but being time poor on this occasion I cheated)

Pre-heat the oven to 180°c fan / 200°c /gas mark 5

Prepare the butternut squash and place in the mixing bowl with 1 ½ tablespoons olive oil. Sprinkle with paprika, salt and pepper and mix well to evenly coat. Place on a baking sheet and roast for 30 minutes.

Meanwhile using the leftover oil pan fry the onions until softened and leave to cool. Mix the butternut squash and onions together in a mixing bowl, add the crumbled feta cheese, crème fraiche and herbs. Mix together and leave on one side while you prepare the pastry case. I used a rectangular tin, measuring 10cm x 32cm this, but a round or square tin works just as well. Line the tray with pastry and fill with the butternut squash filling. Use the leftover pastry to create a lid using one whole piece to cover or cut shapes to create a pattern. Brush the pastry with egg or milk and sprinkle with some chia or poppy seeds.

Bake in a medium hot oven for 45 minutes. The top should be golden brown.

Cool slightly before serving with a tossed green salad.

Bread making with Epsom Bakehouse

The upside: Learn to bake bread properly, from a true baking expert.

The downside: Class sizes are small and sell out quickly so plan ahead.

The flipside: Rhiannon is super organised and a fantastic teacher!

Working in local government Rhiannon Abbot was in need of a new direction and ten years down the line, she made her move. Friends loved her baking and convinced her that she should create a new career in the kitchen. Attending a course at Four Gables Academy run by culinary local hero David Gilliat gave her the motivation to take it further.  After attending Jane Mason’s Virtuous Bread course   Rhiannon emerged as a fully fledged bread angel providing bread to local people within her community. Joining twitter to promote her new business and a setting up a stall at an Enterprise Market is Epsom I started to follow her. I was intrigued by the bread angel concept and went to Epsom find out more.

After meeting Rhiannon at the market I arranged to go and interview her in action at her home in Epsom. We chatted as she effortlessly made a perfect white loaf of bread. Three years down the line and a new addition to the family, Rhiannon no longer bakes for the community but has taken her training one step further to teach bread making. This she feels fits in better with her home life.

Sitting in on one of Rhiannon’s bread courses just before Christmas I got to see first hand how this talented baker has grown and developed her craft. Held in a youth centre in Epsom I arrived to find a perfectly set up room. As soon as the session started it was clear this was going to be an informal and relaxed day. It was really carefully structured too, keeping the information flow engaging and production on target.

On this introduction to bread making course , you will make five types of bread and go home with a large bag of freshly baked treats that you have made yourself. Rhiannon demonstrated each step and explained why certain rules apply. Add the water to the yeast when it’s too hot and you kill its potential, knead in a certain way to stretch and work the gluten and carefully select your ingredients.

First up was a classic white flour bread dough which formed the introduction to the skills of bread making and set the scene. Leaving this to rise the group made sourdough rolls using a ferment or biga (sourdough starter)  that had been made in advance. Once made these were left to rise and baked became lunch served with some cheese and cured meats. Simple and delicious.

Next up was a soda bread which uses baking soda not yeast for the rise hence its name which was enriched with seeds and buttermilk. An effective loaf that tastes gorgeous eaten just cooled from the oven and which does not need to rise prior to baking.

Knocking back the dough made earlier after a rise it was formed into rolls and a small loaf. While these were placed for a second rise the final bread of the day was made. An olive oil infused focaccia with fresh rosemary.

For a five hour course, it was amazing how quickly the time passed. Summing up the course we agreed that we had enjoyed, great company, expert tuition and gained a new skill set.

If you want to learn how to make bread from an expert it’s a brilliant way to spend a day.

Tel 07761600030

For more information on courses and costs follow the link below.

The Epsom Bakehouse

Leftover Mincemeat Cake

I always end up with leftover mincemeat from Christmas. So, as I make my own booze filled creation it is just too good, not to use up. This cake always goes down well and can double up as a pudding first out of the oven! Its an old fashioned recipe that your granny will love too. Print a copy of the recipe using this link Leftover Mincemeat Cake. This recipe was created for a project I undertook for Guildford Borough Councils ‘Love Food Hate Waste’ Campaign a few years ago and it is a regular in our house every January.

Ingredients

200g light brown soft sugar
200g softened salted butter
3 eggs, beaten
200g self-raising brown or white flour (gluten free works well here too)
400g jar mincemeat
1 eating apple, grated (optional)

23cm x 23cm size baking tray lined with non-stick baking paper.

Make by hand or in an electric stand mixer.

Method

Pre-heat the oven to 180ºC/ 160ºC fan oven/gas mark 4.

Beat the sugar and butter together until soft and creamy.

Stir in the eggs a little at a time adding a spoon of flour with each egg (this will stop the mixture curdling). Fold in the remaining flour with mincemeat and apple.

Using a silicone or rubber spatula spoon the mixture into the baking tray. Spread the mixture evenly and place in the pre-heated oven to bake for 30 minutes or until golden and firm to touch.

Remove from the oven and cool.

Eat warm from the oven as a pudding with custard or cream or cool completely for a teatime treat.

Leave on a cooling rack until completely cold and store in an airtight tin for up to 5 days.