Category Archives: Chains

The Richard Onslow

The Richard Onslow, 113-117 High St, Cranleigh, GU6 8AU

An established dining room with a seriously creative menu from independent pub group Peach.

The upside: A gastro-pub with a outstanding unique menu which wanders outside the norm!

The downside: Struggling here….

The flipside: Top marks for energetic creative management!

When I was contacted by the PR company representing the Richard Onslow asking if I would like sample their new summer menu I immediately agreed. My review policy is one I stick to but I had already given the thumbs up to this pub in 2013 so a return visit was long overdue.

I had heard that founding manager John Taylor who is credited with putting this pub firmly on Surrey’s culinary map was leaving for pastures new. What a legacy he has left behind; management team that looked after me on the day I visited were high energy, well informed, slick and personable. Having studied the Peach Pubs website before I visited it seemed that they were exactly what they say they are, professional, dedicated, fun loving and food-centric.

mike scott chef richard onslowTerri the Manager told me that each of the 18 pubs in this group are allowed to keep their individual personalities and each chef has menu autonomy aside from five classics that each pub menu carries. They are careful to keep the ethos of each venue in keeping with their location make sure that passing trade and locals are catered for with equal attention. The new menu I was there to sample was a collaboration of the in house chefs and development chef Mike Scott.

I had been invited to review the new summer menu and at the time of writing I feel guilty that a month has passed since visiting. The menu will run until September and I am sure that after my delightful experience the replacement will be just as good. My plus one was my teenage son (aged 15) who was doing one of his work experience weeks with me. He told me the other day that he preferred the week he did with the Yvonne Arnaud Theatre (not surprisingly) but that lunch at the Richard Onslow had been a highlight of his week with me.

The Richard Onslow in Cranleigh, Surrey.

On arrival we were seated in their delightful dining room, which has a mixture of comfy sofas, dining chairs, round, square and oblong tables. This I like, as depending on the size of your party, you can choose a format that suits you. It’s a stylish light room with subtle decor a contemporary edge and a relaxed vibe.

dining room richard onslow

The summer menu has some really interesting plates. It’s a refreshing compilation featuring summery seasonal ingredients and current food trends. For starters we chose free-range ham and cheddar croquettes with garlic aioli and Secretts watercress £7.25 and a spring onion and pea Scotch egg with pesto mayonnaise (£6.75). My son devoured his croquettes, which were crunchy, rich and cheesy. Dipping the croquettes into the aioli with a fork of watercress gave a perfect balance of flavours. My Scotch egg had a high scoring soft centre. The Scotch egg on its own was well seasoned but adding the pesto mayonnaise lifted the flavour profile from great to gorgeous. The chef was keen for us to sample his favourite starter from the menu, which was a stunner. Pan-fried scallops and monkfish with Bombay potatoes and Indian salad (£9.75 starter/£19.95 main) was a riot of ingredients. Plump fresh succulent scallops and monkfish with a backdrop of a Bhel Poori house style salad from London’s famous Drummond Street; if you have never been there do! Its a London institution. This was actually one of the most innovative dishes I have had in a while and it worked so well. I like risky cooking and this was a great example.

richard onslow starter trio

Onto the mains my teenage companion predictably chose sausages and mash from the specials board whilst I went for sea bass with saffron potatoes, mussels and clam chowder (£17.00). My son wolfed his dinner down and I savoured my dish. Crispy skin fish twinned with a creamy seafood chowder which was comforting but not overly rich. The fish and seafood were super fresh too suggesting a hint of the Mediterranean in Cranleigh (indulge me it was a sunny day). We ordered a dish of peas, courgette and beans which were sautéed in butter and simply gorgeous and a generous portion too. It was lunchtime and I was driving but I did notice that the wine list is comprehensive and priced to satisfy any budget with a few local English wines listed too.

mians richard onlsow trio

The dessert menu included a vegan peanut butter and chocolate brownie made with Valrhona chocolate which can be served with sorbet if requested (£5.75) My chocoholic son had his with Jude’s vanilla ice-cream. The brownie was not oversweet (as is often the case) so a perfect partner to ice-cream. Served warm it was light in texture with an intense chocolate note and a nutty finish. My choice in complete contrast was grilled peach served with biscotti and Chantilly cream. I felt the biscotti here were a little large but this may have been because the portions here are generous and we had eaten really well. The Chantilly cream was delicious and the plate looked and tasted fantastic.

desserts trio

I finished with a pot of mint tea and development Chef Mike Scott came for a chat. Full of enthusiasm and clearly enjoying his job he echoed the ethos of Peach pubs which had been so eloquently described by his colleague Terri. We had had a terrific lunch served by energetic, well-informed and happy staff so I wasn’t surprised to discover that the company had won Best Employer in the 2015 Hospitality Awards.

They seem to have it all here and its delightful to find that this venue seems to have improved since my last review visit (its often the reverse). I also like the fact that they have a good mix of buying local where they can (bread from the craft baker across the road ) and salad leaves from Secretts in Milford, plan menus to the seasons and really care about the provenance too.

I am already planning a return visit and feel justified in giving this venue a big thumbs up.

Tel 01483 274922

www.therichardonslow.co.uk

Carluccio’s Caffè

Wolsey Place Shopping Centre, Woking Shopping, Commercial Way, Woking, Surrey GU21 6XX

Great Italian coffee, delicious menu and gourmet food shopping bang smack in the centre of Woking

The upside: A credible place for stylish eating in the town centre with three gold stars from the Sustainable Restaurant Assocation

The downside: It’s no longer independently owned but still very serious about food!

The flipside: A lovely calm retreat away from the hustle and bustle of the shopping centre and the big glass doors open up in the summer.

I can remember when Antonio Carluccio’s first restaurant opened in 1998 and have always been a fan. It was the first of a new genre of relaxed modern Italian style eateries that offered lighter meals at a competitive price in smart locations in London. A TV cook, food writer and presenter Carluccio’s cookbooks were inspirational and best sellers.

carluccios food shop_edited-1

His restaurants also feature shops and the carefully chosen products have endured growing competition and remained desirable. Although Carluccio sold in 2010 he is still a consultant for the business working on menus and products. The pull for me here is the innovative tasty authentic Italian menu with food products under one roof that doesn’t break the bank.

drinks_carluccios

When I first moved to Surrey in 2005, Woking was a far cry from what it is today. The council have worked hard with grants and incentives to attract some more dynamic brands into the centre and also worked with independents like Araceli’s Mexican to get the mix right.

I was invited by a PR company for Woking Shopping to review some of the newly opened restaurants and chose Carluccio’s. It was some time since I eaten in one so a good opportunity to revisit. I chose to go for breakfast with my kids, so were able to sample between us a good range of items from the new menu.

The day we went was warm and sunny. So although the location is very much city centre, located on a pedestrian walkway, the bi-folding glass doors were all open giving an al fresco feel. As expected the décor is minimal, modern and clean and the food shop at the entrance with its wonderful bright packaging and colourful products give a sense of what’s in store from the outset.

carluccios cheese

Ordering up drinks first our waitress asked if my daughter and I would like a rich or smooth blend of coffee. This was a nice touch and our smooth coffee (£2.50) was balanced and just the right strength. Best of all the coffee was served really hot (I can’t bear being served luke-warm drinks) and the chocolate coated coffee bean on the side went down a treat. We also ordered juices, an orange and a pear juice, these arrived in large glasses and at £2.50 each, well priced.

A new breakfast menu had just been launched and I went for and open frittata with shaved parmesan and rich truffle (£8.50). Something I have not seen on any other menu hence its appeal. It was freshly made, hot and heady with black truffle and I loved it. My daughter had eggs Benedict (£7.75) a generous filling portion which she gave 10/10 for. My son opted for the Carluccio’s Italian take on the full English. Pancetta here replaces bacon, rustic Italian bread, sausage, eggs and mushrooms finish the plate. This got thumbs up from my teenage son who is keen to repeat this breakfast experience as soon as possible. Meaty sausages, perfectly cooked pancetta and eggs sealed the deal here. This is £7.95 on its own but if you take it with their breakfast deal you get juice and coffee too for £9.95 saving a couple of quid. The mushrooms here are worth a mention as they were brilliantly cooked, hot, tasty and a mix of closed cup and shitake, what a treat. After 11am you can turn breakfast into Brunch and treat yourself to a Bloody Mary or a Mimosa too.

carluccios breakfast trio

When we had finished eating we went for a little smooch around the shop. In addition to packaged products they also sell fresh pastries, cured meats, parmesan and olives. I spotted my favourite dessert wine Vin Santo which is divine served with almond Cantuccini biscuits. It’s great to know they stock this as a couple of years ago you couldn’t seem to buy a bottle for all the tea in China. I did buy some of their gluten free spaghetti (£2.95), the best I have ever tried and some aromatic lemon infused olive oil (250ml/ £8.95). Used as a finishing oil and not for cooking this is wonderful on freshly grilled fish or salads.

interiort carluccios trio

We enjoyed our breakfast here so much we have already been back for dinner! Carluccio’s is a great addition to Woking centre and I hope the current regeneration sees many more additions in the months to come.

www.carluccios.com

01483 762972

I was invited to review this restaurant as a guest of Woking Shopping. Please read my review policy here and information for PR enquiries here.