Tag Archives: farm shop

Ockley Farmers Market

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Rural Food Retailing in a Modern World

The upside: This is mostly undercover so English weather proof

The downside: Only on the first Sunday of each month!

The flipside: A chance to buy directly from local Surrey producers most of whom live close to the market

Surrey is a county of contrasts, which is part of its endearing appeal. Guildford where I live is full of designer shops smattered with a few independents and a small but growing fine food culture made so by the likes of Surrey Hills Coffee Shop, Partisan Deli and Canopy Coffee. But a lot of the great finds are ‘not on the high street’ and Ockley Farmers Market is a prime example. Situated between Dorking and Horsham it’s close to Leith Hill and the borders of Sussex and Surrey in some of the most stunning countryside that Surrey has to offer.

This market only started in April 2017 and it’s a collaboration between two Surrey hard core food heroes. Michaela and Neil Allam who are the producers of Surrey’s most famous cheese Norbury Blue and Dirty Vicar and James and Catherine Dampier of Village Greens (Farm shops in Coles Lane Ockley and Denbies Vineyard).

They have been selling on the farmers market circuit throughout Surrey since Michaela (who grew up on a farm) started making the cheese in 2001. Michaela met her husband Neil who was a watercress grower at one of the markets she attended and he joined the business when he said ‘I do’. Recently they moved into a house on Coles Lane in Ockley which came with the former Ockley Nursery. Situated next to Village Greens Farm Shop in Coles Lane was a great move. Farm shop owner James and Catherine Dampier have been selling Norbury Blue and Dirty Vicar in both their farm shops since they started their business 10 years ago. With a shared passion for the local artisan food movement and the fact that Village Greens sells their cheese they started to chat about working together. Village Green holds a food fair every September and last year for the first time it was held at the Ockley Nursery site. With even ground and cover it was a safer bet than the field opposite the shop particularly when you factor in our unpredictable English weather.

Neil and Michaela hosted Village Greens Food Fair in Autumn 2016 in a covered area on their land. As the food fair was such a success they decided to launch a monthly farmers market in collaboration with Village Greens. The location of the farm shop was perfect as it has already collected a handful of awards for its ‘local, natural & ethical’ ethos and many of the products sold are local too. Their aim was to create a regular event for the local food community.

In April this year the first Ockley Farmers market took place. It was a soft launch giving local producers an additional retail outlet to sell their produce. Now local here is an interesting term and there is a lot of debate around what this really means in food terms. Is it 5 miles, 10 miles or perhaps 50 miles? Everyone has a different view on this and a lot of the food festivals I go to seem to attract producers from all over England. But at Ockley local means local. Most of the traders here are within a 15 mile radius of the market and some literally less than a mile.

This market has its own unique personality. It isn’t like any other market I have been to in Surrey. Many of the traders come from farming families and producers who have been in the game for many years. They don’t necessarily have the business savvy, techie skills of city start ups who are whizz kids on social media and website design but they do sell real food in a chilled out environment. Its not wrapped up to be something it isn’t but it is good honest traceable food. Michaela of course sells her cheese while Neil mans the barbecue using sausages from nearby Home Farm who also have a stall. He also roasts a large pork joint supplied by them of which thick juicy slices are served in brioche buns. These are from Chalk Hills a fabulous artisan bakery who bring with them their wonderful sour dough breads, pastries, meringues & rolls.

Fresh coffee is served by local roaster Surrey Hills Coffee , who is based just down the road in Forest Green (with a coffee shop in Guildford too). Surrey Hills Coffee have made quite a name for themselves in the relatively short time they have been around. You can buy coffee from them to prepare at home or a freshly made cup to enjoy while perusing the stalls. There are lots of wonderful freshly baked pastries to go with this from Chalk Hills and if you want to sit and relax you can wander across the road and behind the car park you will find the ‘Bee Garden’ with seats and tables. On market and non-market days you can also buy Barista Coffee from the farm shop who use coffee from ‘Coffee Real’. This longer established brand have been ethically sourcing and roasting to perfection, single estate coffee from the most extraordinary small coffee producers globally. This element of the market is fantastic for the many keen cyclists who frequent the Surrey Hills. It’s a perfect pit stop with great food and drinks to recharge on a challenging cycle trip.

Other stalls include Jam Packed a small cottage industry business making traditional jams, chutney and piccalilli for their growing band of followers. Their tag line is ‘hand stirred in Surrey’ which after spending a lovely morning in their kitchen I can vouch is true. Big Blue Biltong is also a new start up selling a range of delicious, unctuous textured cured meat. A former chef at another local food hall he found his niche with his new range of products which are also on sale in the farm shop next door to the market. Olives and things complement the biltong for pre dinner nibbles. For a serious meal there are products from nearby Etherley Farm who are the closest producer to the market. They bring their free range poultry, duck, lamb, eggs and honey to the market. At Christmas their turkeys are top quality and sold by as many local butchers that can get there hands on their limited supply. You can also buy directly from them.

On the alcohol front beer is from a couple of local breweries and change from month to month but last time I was there it was Firebird Brewery. Well known locally they teamed up with Jam Packed who produced chutney featuring their beer. Silent Pool award winning local gin makers also attend this market with their growing catalogue of intriguing flavour mists, fruit cordials and seasonal specials.

There are around twenty stallholders at each market and I really urge you to go and this give one a visit. It’s a glimpse into the life of food producers who work really hard under adverse conditions to bring delicious products to the marketplace. You will leave feeling more connected to your food and the people who make it.

Ockley Farmers Market, Coles Lane, Ockley, RH

Facebook @OckleyFarmersMarket

Twitter @OCKELY_FM

www.VGFarmshop.com

This article previously appeared in Essence Magazine

Elm Kitchen at Elm Farm Nursery

Blog, Cafes, children's parties, Farm, Farm Shop, Local products, , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

Sutton Green Road, Sutton Green, Guildford GU4 7QD

Innovative salads, freshly baked cakes and savouries using some local ingredients dominate the menu at this new kitchen at Elm Farm Nursery!

The Upside: A great addition at Elm Farm Nursery for delicious home cooked food in a delightful setting.

The downside: Elm Kitchen Café is not open on Mondays.

The flipside: The food here is all home-made with an admirable ‘no deep fryer’ policy meaning that nuggets and chips are permanently off the menu.

Elm Nursery in Sutton Green is one of my favourite places. Run by a lovely family this is a low key welcoming and friendly venue. Famed locally for Mum Rita’s bedding plants and amazing filled hanging baskets it was crying out for a café. The café was supposed to open last year but electrical supply issues and other difficulties led to a few months delay. This was a frustrating for Jacqui Street who is at the helm. Already making pies for the Olive Tree pub down the road and for Joes farm shop (on site) Jacqui’s cooking skills were a known quantity.

elm farm trip

Softly opening in late April they have steadily been growing a local following. Home-made quiche, meaty sausage rolls (a treat with a high meat to pastry ratio), Scotch eggs and interesting salads are complimented by home made soup, freshly made sandwiches (from £4) and English breakfasts (from £6).

soup elm farm

Jacqui sticks to local suppliers when she can; Ray Rowley butchers supply free range bacon and pork for breakfasts, sausage meat for the sausage rolls and Scotch eggs (both £3 each). Free-range eggs also come from Rowley’s as even though there are lots of chickens at Elm Farm their eggs are sold in the farm shop. Bread comes from Christmas Bakery one of the few traditional bakers in the area supplying the farm too.

The menu has plenty of choice, ambitious considering small kitchen. I went with my kids on a warm day so I opted for a grilled halloumi salad from the specials menu. This was a delicious of mix freshly grilled cheese, avocado, peppers, tomatoes, couscous and chick-peas on salad leaves. Topped with roasted pine kernels it had immediate kerb appeal. I loved the fact that when Jacqui bought it to the table she bought a little jug of dressing too.

Elm kitchen blog photos 2

Too many times since writing ‘Eat Surrey” I have been expected to munch my way through a plate of dry leaves (read my article here on this). My daughter opted for freshly made roasted tomato and basil soup with half a prawn and avocado sandwich. They are flexible here because they can be and it was the perfect sized portion. Essential here as we also ordered a home-made sausage roll. Heavy on sausage and light on pastry and warmed through we ended up having two (£3 each). My son chose a chicken, chorizo and roasted red pepper sandwich, which came with a salad garnish and a portion of crisps (£5). It was freshly prepared super stuffed and the addition of soft roasted peppers was inspired. To finish we had coffee (from Nature) and tea. Sadly no room left for a slice of home-made cake. Having sampled these in the past I can verify that they taste every bit as good as they look (from £2.20)

Elm Kitchen blog photos 1

The café is situated next to a small animals feeding area for kids with chickens, ducks, geese, guinea pigs, rabbits & pigs. In the field next door say hello to Llamas (Luna and Saffron), miniature ponies and goats. My daughter (20) and my son (15) spent ages with the animals proving what a hit they are regardless of age. The café itself has been built at the end of a new grassed off picnic area. Visitors can bring their own picnic and use the seating provided outside right next to the pens of chickens, rabbits, guinea pigs and rabbits. Perfect for young children who can be contained within the area that is safe for them to play around in a lovely setting and easy for parents to keep an eye on. Entry into the animal enclosure for children to feed the animals and get a closer look is just £1. Feed is available from the farm shop.

animlas

Kids parties are popular here and Jacqui can provide a top notch kids menu with plenty of healthy choices and a lovely birthday cake too. Pop in for a chat to get more details.

Elm Kitchen is a great addition to a growing portfolio of new independent cafés in Surrey. Go and give it a try you wont be disappointed!

http://www.elmnursery.co.uk/

01483 755559 

I would like to thank my work experience student Xavier Brunton from George Abbot School for taking the images and laying them out for this post.

Apple, Carrot and Pistachio Cake with Coconut Cream

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Screen Shot 2015-02-05 at 14.43.07

 

I love making oil based cakes as they retain a moist melt in the mouth texture. By incorporating vegetables and fruit you create a denser texture but the oil ensures a lighter finish.I used duck eggs as I had them in the fridge and know that some bakers swear they make better cakes. Use hen’s eggs of course if you don’t have ducks readily available. Using a good quality stone-ground plain wholemeal flour here adds a deeper nutty texture to the sponge plus it just wouldn’t be the same with white. I usually leave the skin on eating apples when I grate them but go ahead and peel them if you prefer. This is the perfect way to use up slightly wrinkly apples from your fruit dish.

carrot apple pistachio

Makes 12 generous slices

Before you start line a 24cm round cake tin with silicone paper. Give the sides a bit of height with paper if the tin is not that deep.

Pre – heat the oven to 180°c / 160 fan° c
carrot apple cake

For the cake

3 ducks eggs, separate the whites and yolks

150g runny honey

125ml rapeseed or sunflower oil

2 sweet red eating apples, cored and grated

150g carrot, peeled and grated

2 teaspoons ground cinnamon

½ teaspoon ground cardamom

225g fine stone-ground plain wholemeal flour

2 tsp baking powder

½ tsp bicarbonate of soda

I lemon, zest and juice

75g chopped pistachio nuts

Topping

200g *Philadelphia light cream cheese at room temperature

Honey to taste (I used a teaspoon)

Lemon zest (see above)

25g coconut powder

Place the egg whites in a clean mixing bowl and whisk until its stiff enough to form stiff peaks. If you are using a stand mixer transfer the whites to another bowl for later. Add the egg yolks, honey and oil to the bowl and whisk on high until the mixture looks creamy. Using the beater gently fold in the apple and carrot. Mix the spices, flour and raising agents together and fold into the batter with the lemon zest and pistachios. Finally stir in the egg whites. Spoon the cake mixture into the prepared baking tin and place in the pre-heated oven for 35-40 minutes. Remove when the cake is firm to touch. Remove from the tin after 5 minutes and cool on a rack. Now make the topping. Mix the cream cheese in a bowl and add the honey and lemon zest. Sieve in the coconut powder and chill until required. When the cake is cool remove the silicone paper and top with the cream cheese frosting. Decorate with ground pistachio’s. I also used some dried cornflower petals which you can buy in some specialist food shops or online here.

*I don’t usually specify brands but a lot of own label cream cheeses have stabilisers in them. As soon as you mix them they break down and make the icing runny. Very annoying. Philadelphia is more stable which means you can use the light version and keep the creamy texture. For vegans use coconut cream instead.

Ildiko’s Chocolates

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Artisan chocolate producers who excel in combining the unexpected!Tamas and Ildiko

Main Event: High cocoa solid chocolate bars studded with an inspiring array of gourmet ingredients.

Is it worth the calories? With antioxidants, calming endorphins and evidence that it protects again heart disease too (in moderation) it’s more than a value added treat.

Last summer’s fact-finding trips to food fairs yielded some local treasures, among them Ildiko’s chocolates. It’s hard to resist the allure of intensely red and purple berries nuzzling into white, vanilla speckled chocolate for long. The eye-catching tummy rumbling pull of gorgeously displayed slabs of dark, milk and white chocolate dotted with the familiar and unexpected led me, months later, to a little kitchen in Surrey.

Ildiko's chocolate_trio

 

When Ildiko was growing up in Hungary she used to bake with her grandmother. If there were any leftover ingredients she loved to create chocolate treats for her family. Studying science at university and stimulated by nature Ildiko became an environmental engineer. It never occurred to her that one day she would leave it all behind to help start an artisan chocolate company. After marrying Tamas they moved to the UK with their young family and he followed his career in hotel management. Not sure what to do and needing something to fit in with a young family Ildiko started to make confectionary and in particular, pralines. These didn’t seem to have the same appeal here as they did at home but when Tamas suggested chocolate slabs with freeze dried fruits and they decided to give it a whirl.

ildiko_chocs_9x6

First they sourced their chocolate experimenting with a few suppliers until they felt they had the base for their eclectic toppings. With high cocoa solids quality chocolate perfected, they started to experiment with flavours. To differentiate they searched out ingredients that flirt and tease the chocolate giving it a quirky edge. Starting with freeze dried fruits Ildiko soon found that strawberries, raspberries and blueberries were a hit with their growing customer base. Later they added dried goji berries, coconut and pomegranate seeds combining them with smoked sea salt wasabi peas, rose, violet and mint leaves. Their product list demonstrates their devotion to ‘out of the ordinary’. My current favourite is a sultry, sweet caramelised chocolate with raw cocoa nibs and smoked salt. It has texture, a subtle salty crunch offset by the sweetness of the chocolate and a bitter note from the raw cocoa nibs.

ildiko choc trio

When I visited this artisan producer at home in Walton-on-Thames they had just started to make a batch of caramelised white chocolate which is achieved by slowly baking the chocolate in the oven for several hours.  It must be stirred regularly so it doesn’t split and is cooked evenly. We did a blind tasting of their product against Vahlrona and it’s simply better in every way. Creamy, mouth meltingly smooth, it has a delicious caramel note taken to the exact point of no return. Ildiko’s preparation methods are precise – she says her science background has helped. The slabs are crafted from expertly tempered chocolate left plain or flavoured and coloured with natural extracts (strawberry, lime, orange and vanilla). Once poured into waiting moulds they are hand decorated with precision.

Wrapped, labelled and packed freshly for each order or event Ildiko and Tamas run stalls at farmers markets and supply some independent shops in Surrey. These Chocolatiers constantly have a keen eye out for new ideas. Their fascinating store of blackcurrant pepper, chocolate-coated goji berries, dried organic pomegranate seeds and Himalayan pink salt is, I hope, just the tip of this creative culinary iceberg.

Available at:slabs_16x9

  • Farmers markets
  • The Naked Grocer in Walton-on-Thames
  • The farm shop co-operative at the Medicine Garden in Cobham
  • On-line – click here to visit their shop
Text and images Shirlee
Text and images Shirlee

Luscious lemon and courgette cake

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(makes 12 generous portions)

This moist veg packed cake is adaptation of Flora’s famous courgette cake featured in Nigella Lawson’s ‘How to be a domestic goddess’. I added lemon zest to the cake mix to give it a citrus kick and tweaked some of the ingredients to fit our food ethos for the Pop up Café we ran in June. This is a great way to use a glut of courgettes when you have run out of savoury ideas and freezes beautifully (un-iced). We sourced our courgettes from Village Greens in Ockley who grow their own. I wanted a more substantial layered cake than the original recipe so increased the amounts given. You can bake this in three tins to give you an extra filling layer if you prefer. Courgettes release water when they are grated so make sure you squeeze them as dry as you can on kitchen towel otherwise it will make the cake mixture too wet. I used some dried cornflower petals to decorate this cake which Jane had bought me as a gift from a range on offer at Secretts farm shop in Milford. A healthy and natural alternative to sprinkles they look stunning.

Ingredients Courgette and lemon cake

185ml sunflower oil

3 free range eggs

225g castor sugar

350g self-raising flour

1 tsp of baking powder

The zest of 2 organic un-waxed lemons (juice for the icing)

90g  raisins, soaked overnight in water

375g courgettes, topped tailed and finely grated

For the icing

400g full fat cream cheese (beware low fat doesn’t work here as it breaks down and goes runny)

200g icing sugar

Juice of 1-2 lemons

Dried cornflower petals to decorate and freeze dried raspberry (optional)

Lemon Curd to fill about half a 350g jar

Method

Pre-heat the oven to Gas mark 4/ 180°c /fan 160°c. Line or grease 2 or 3 round 22cm baking tins.

  1.  Place the oil and eggs and sugar in the mixing bowl of an electric stand mixer or use an electric hand whisk and beat until pale and creamy.
  2. Combine the flour and baking powder and fold into the egg mixture.
  3. Now fold in the lemon zest, courgettes and raisins. Divide the mixture between the three lined tins and bake in pre-heated for 30 minutes.
  4. Leave for 5 minutes then remove from the tins and allow to cool on a rack.
  5. Meanwhile make the icing by combining the ingredients until smooth, chill until required.
  6. Place the first layer on a serving platter and spread with lemon curd. Repeat this with the second and third cake leaving the top un-iced.
  7. Using a palette knife spread the cream cheese icing on the top and sides of the cake. Sprinkle the top with petals or a decoration of your choice.

cornfower petals _duo

Text and images Shirlee
Text and images Shirlee

Secretts Farm Shop

Blog, Butchers, Cafes, Coffee Shop, Deli, Farm Shop, Food fair, food festival, Gourmet food shop, local food shop, Our blog, Tea Shop, , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

secretts derek cheese_6x9Hurst Farm, Chapel Lane, Milford, GU8 5HU

Upside: Fabulous seasonal produce complimented by a staggering array of culinary ingredients, top notch meat and the best stocked cheese counter for miles

Downside: There is only one Secretts in Surrey but even if it’s a hike its worth a visit!

Flipside: The farm shop is also home to Black Barn Butchers, Eliza’s Tea Room and an ethical clothing and accessory shop Jo’s unLTD.

Today Secretts in run by father and son team Charles and Greg Secrett but they partly owe their success to their fascinating heritage.  The story starts with Charles’s grandfather who chose horticulture from the range of options open to a young man in the early 1900’s. Starting his first growing venture in 1908 he was, by the time he died a legendary figure known for his innovative growing techniques, irrigation inventions and mobile glasshouses. In addition he was passionate about training and education and responsible for igniting a passion for horticulture to those he came into contact with. His great grandson Greg has carried on his tradition for growing and as well as supplying Secretts famous salad leaves to virtually every restaurant in the South East of England he also grows a huge range of speciality vegetables for many top London restaurants. On direct dial to many of London’s most feted chefs (I wouldn’t say no to his contacts list) his veg portfolio has true street credibility. The 100 acre farm whilst having a thriving wholesale business also grows for their own farm shop so while supply is seasonal; its food metres not miles here.

secretts_greg_kale

Entry into the EU in the 1970’s, industrial farming methods and supermarket buying methods all impacted on their original business model. The farm shop opened in 1979 as the family had to diversify their business. In the few years following they added a pick your own service where raspberries, strawberries, gooseberries, peas, beans and other English garden classics are available throughout the summer. Recent innovations include poly-tunnels with table top strawberries making them disabled friendly and wheelchair accessible, plus able bodied folk also find this more back friendly too.

secretts cheese of the month 6x9Entering the farm shop you are hit by the cheese counter a visual eye candy moment and a taste of what’s to come when you pass into the inner sanctum of food excellence. With over 200 varieties of cheese it’s beautifully managed by knowledgeable staff – ask for a sample or take advantage of featured cheeses. Membrillo, cheese honey and other complimentary treats top the counter and head on you’ll see the cheese biscuit selection. Thick Stockarns oatcakes, my favourites Peter’s Yard, Millers Charcoal damsels and other cheeseboard must haves are represented here.  To arrive at the deli section you are taken teasingly past the stunning array of biscuits and chocolate products from independents, artisans and bigger brands. Himalayan pink salt, chilli and lime the variety is endless. Past the cake decoration stand where I discovered Uncle Roy’s Commestible Concoctions for the first time (edible flower petals, crystallised rose and violets, marigold and cornflower)

secretts Uncle Roys

my cakes have never been better dressed. The large deli counter is heaving with pies, unusual scotch eggs (I spied onion bhaji last visit) quiches made on site plus free-range ham or salamis. Hillyers of Farncombe supply traditional bread and artisan sour doughs come from The Hungry Guest in Chichester and Farretti in Lodsworth.  Cakes are from Crosbies and Farmhouse Cookery, gluten free options from Mrs Crimbles (plus a free-from section with pasta and other staples).

secretts cheese9x6

 

The back wall is home to sauces, mustards, pesto’s and pickles while further on olives, oils, vinegars can be found. Cous-cous, basmati & Thai rice plus top quality pasta is next while a central island is home to help yourself olives, chillies and other pickled treats. Vintage food tins, designer napkins, cards and other and other gift shop items are also for sale.

Different from other farm shops, Secretts has a huge selection of meat, jams, preserves, herbs, spices, baked goods, and frozen food. There is a help-yourself ethos so you can buy herbs and spices by the gram, frozen berries by the kilo, or even frozen croissants.  A great selection of pre-packed spices from the Seasoned Pioneer, superb Lebanese pomegranate molasses and lots more gourmet ingredients for those dabbling in secretts turnocks6x9world cuisine can be picked up here.

Dotted around the shop are also foodie items that will get the memories flooding back! Tunnock’s retro packs of caramel chocolate treats and oddballs like Fry’s chocolate cream.

Arriving at the final section of the shop holds fresh meat from Black Barn (who also have a retail outlet just outside the farm shop) and the fresh produce section. Fresh ginger, garlic (smoked and regular), lemon grass just hint at the exotics. Grown metres from the shop the salad leaf selection and season permitting golden and red beetroot and carrots, cabbage, salsify, kale, leeks, & parsnips. Dotted in-between are bought in items that supplement own grown. It’s a heady display of local and imported produce.

secretts veg collage

This is more than just a farm shop it’s a family run business with a soulful history. Charles and Greg Secrett have adjusted to the challenges of our political food system and kept the business thriving. The tea room Eliza’s recently taken over by Butter and Cream cakes is brighter with a tasty contemporary menu, the award-winning butcher on site sells rare breeds and free range meats. Even the boutique prides itself on sourcing fair trade jewellery and other items to its stock.

butchers and cheese

Although this review is really about the farm shop this venue has so much more to offer;  and if like me you want to support independents, you’ll find that’s what on offer here is hard to beat.

Tel 01483 520500

www.secretts.co.uk

 

Noel’s Farm Shop

Blog, Farm Shop, local food shop, Local producer, Local products, Products, , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

Sutton Green Garden Centre, Whitmoor Lane, Guildford Rd, Woking GU4 7QBnoel_portrait

A farm shop selling artisan products (some exclusive to the shop) and a great range of fresh produce and local meat.

The upside: Noel has to be one of the friendliest guys I know and will do anything (within reason) for his customers.

The downside: None here to report!

The flipside: An eclectic range of culinary treats for special occasions and ingredients to cook a whole family meal from scratch.

Noel Dobson arrived in Sutton Green Garden Centre four years ago and we are all the better for it. Fresh from a career as a care-home provider, he is embracing the world of food retailing to good effect. I visited when the shop first opened – a little early, maybe. Now the shop has expanded, the stock increased and he has a hard core following of local shoppers who love his helpful personality and range of fresh and packaged food on offer.

noel trio

 

This farm shop is part of a garden centre with land, so growing for the shop and pick your own is part of the bigger picture here. But this is also a shop where you can go and buy ingredients for cook-from-scratch meals. Free-range chicken, sausages, fresh vegetables, sauces and condiments are here for the taking! The provenance of the products makes this shop a local foodie destination as it stocks free-range eggs, local bacon and sour dough bread from the bread factory in London.

Noel ensures he buys provisions his customers want and his friendly personality is another draw. On my last visit we sampled lovely fresh apples just in from a farm in Sussex.

APPLES NOELS SHOP 9x6

Constantly looking for new products Noel listens to his customers and now has a comprehensive range of gluten free products.

Cheese from Surrey, Sussex and Kent form a great portfolio from local artisan producers. It was good to see Ellie’s goat cheeses alongside High Weald, Norbury Blue and Dunley Wood. Fresh meat, chicken and sausages are from local butcher, Wakeling’s.

The garden centre’s polytunnels supply fresh crops every morning during the growing season. Rhubarb, Swiss chard, salad onions and spinach were all in stock and had travelled around 400 metres to their selling point. Food miles may be less of an issue in the argument on climate change but veg is at its nutritional best when it has just been picked!

noels produce

This shop is a much needed resource in an area that is dominated by a large supermarket. It has a great location and ample parking: pop in and pick up a pint of milk or a loaf of fresh artisan bread but make sure you peruse the shelves – there are some real treats in store!

www.noelsfarmshop.co.uk

07908124603

Crumbs of Capel

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Crumbs of Capel The Old Brickyard, Coles Lane, Capel, RH5 5HPdineke_soda_bread

A small artisan bakery in Surrey Weald supplying totally handmade bread.

Buy from: Village Greens or the Dorking Food Float.

Avoid: Inferior factory-made imposters.

Is it worth the calories?: Traditional slow-fermented bread using ingredients with provenance gets an undisputed thumbs up.

Tips: Book onto Dineke’s course and learn how simple it is to prepare artisan breads at home.

Having sampled Dineke’s breads and fruited buns at Village Greens’ food festival last summer I snapped up a place at one of her bread courses. Offered in partnership with Village Greens in Ockley, the principal retailer for Crumbs of Capel, it seemed a perfect foodie night out. In confidence, luck has not been on my side in the sourdough department so I was secretly hoping this would turn things around.

dineke_trio

At a cost of £25 (including ingredients and dinner) I attended ‘Soda and Sourdough’ at the community hall in Capel. The evening started with a run through of the principles of sourdough starters. We prepared a sourdough bread first, which needed a couple of hours to rise, and then a speedy soda bread. While waiting for the bread to rise and prove, we had dinner and a chance to chat. Catherine Dampier, our Village Greens’ hostess, had put together a buffet of scrumptious products from the shop, all served with Dineke’s wonderful bread. Everything was local, carefully sourced and in perfect keeping with the ethos of the evening.

Nutbourne tomatoes, charcuterie, soft ewes milk cheese from Golden Cross Cheese Company and English Regional wine from Denbies

Making sourdough is a lengthy process, not to be confused with bread machines and easy-blend yeast. No, sour dough breads take time, a long time: when Dineke is baking for her retailers she makes the dough in the evening and ferments it all night. In the morning the dough is knocked back, kneaded again, formed into loaves and proved for another two hours. Then it’s ready to bake. But all the decisions are based on experience and timings can change each time you bake.

We were all provided with a portion of bubbling starter, which takes a couple of weeks to make. Warm water is added to flour to start the process, which encourages the growth of naturally occurring yeasts. This is fed with fresh flour and mixed and hibernated to create (eventually!) the bubbling, fermenting mass of batter characteristic of sourdough. Flour choice affects the result. We used Sharpham Park’s organic spelt flour for the sourdough and Doves Farm white organic for the soda bread.

making sour dough

Dineke’s course was jam packed with bread-making wisdom and tips but the most important was that to make your starter all you need is good-quality flour and some hand-warm water. It really is that simple. So why had I and so many other would-be sourdough bakers been sold the idea of fresh orange juice, raisins, bottled water and other mixtures? No wonder my previous efforts with strange concoctions in my airing cupboard had been a disaster.

sour_dough_rolls6x9Armed with a cup of starter, we added flour and a little more water and salt. We kneaded this for 10 minutes and formed it into four equal-sized rolls. We had a choice of seeds for toppings to add texture and nutrients – and to make it look good. We left this to rise while we got on with our soda bread.

For the soda bread we added bicarbonate of soda, the raising agent that gives soda bread its name, to white flour, then our choice of liquid: natural yogurt, milk, buttermilk or water. Kneading isn’t required, just a quick mix to form a soft dough. Ready to bake as soon as it’s made, we put our loaves in the oven while we tucked in to our dinner. Afterwards we had time to check our breads and troubleshoot.

If you don’t want to bake your own bread, Dineke supplies over a hundred loaves of bread a week to Village Greens (available fresh every day) and at the Dorking Food Float on Saturdays. Her gluten-free cheese biscuits and nibbles are available from Tanhouse and Kingfisher farm shops. Working to full capacity, Dineke has plans to convert her garage to a larger bake-house to increase production.

There are plenty of reasons why you should go to Village Greens in Ockley but this bread is near the top of the list for me.

www.crumbsofcapel.co.uk

01306 710087

Free range pigs at Joe's farm shop

Joe’s Farm Shop

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Joe’s Farm Shop, Elm Nursery, Sutton Green Road, Guildford, Surrey, GU4 7QDEntrance to the farm shop

A delightful family run business with delicious home-reared pork and local lamb and beef  

Go there for: Local beef, lamb, pork, sausages, milk and free-range eggs – and hanging baskets!

Avoid: High expectations: this is a small shop with a limited range of produce.

Is it worth the calories?:  Our rib of beef was heavenly and surely special treats don’t count!

Tips: This is a small farm shop with big plans: support them to make their expansion a reality.

It’s really all about the meat here. The story began 31 years ago when Emma and Kate’s mum wanted a bigger back garden: she acquired a small farm shop and continued to grow and sell their produce. When a large supermarket opened in Burpham they lost all their trade overnight. Forced to diversify, Rita Thorpe bought herself some books on growing plants and Elm Nursery was born. Thanks to Rita’s green fingers, it’s now a thriving business and they offer a friendly bespoke service you can’t get in bigger nurseries. Over filled hanging baskets start at just £20.

The alarm clock, freshly laid eggs and Emma with some free range pigs

Things were ticking over when Joe, a local farmer needing a retail outlet for his small supply of beef, pork and lamb, popped in for a chat, the timing was right so they went ahead. Animals are free-range and slaughtered as A selection of fresh meat for sale needed by a local abattoir using humane methods that don’t stress the animals prior to slaughter. Hung after slaughter for the optimum time, the meat is mouth-wateringly tender and flavourful. Fridges and freezers were installed and they now stock local milk and cheese (Norbury blue, Dirty Vicar and a selection from High Weald) and their own eggs. They grow a small selection of fresh produce on site – next year they want to grow more in their polytunnels.

To complement the core business Emma and Kate also sell a limited range of locally made cakes and preserves. Jams are made by a local lady Tina who gives 75% of her proceeds to a local hospice in Woking and they are keen to expand what they offer in the future.

Joe’s farm shop is a low-key operation, but there’s a lot to like. Maybe it’s the way the chickens wander in the shop, or that Rita, Emma and Kate always offer such an energetic welcome. There is also the added satisfaction that whatever you buy is helping the local economy stay afloat – at prices that are competitive.

Joe’s farm shop and Elm Nursery

01483 761748

The Parrot Inn

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The Parrot Inn, Forest Green, Surrey RH5 5R2

A pleasing country pub with locally sourced food on the menu.Parrot Inn Forest Green

Go there for: Hearty pub food with a modern tweak featuring the owner’s farm- reared meat and produce.

Avoid: Thinking this too far off the beaten track to travel too: the journey is well worth it.

Is it worth the calories?: We think so! But careful, the portions are generous here.

Tips: Make sure you try the unique air-cured ham made in their own butchery. Request that your pudding is heated in the oven and not the microwave.

This has the double whammy of being a highly regarded gastro pub and an award winning farm shop. This is a Gotto family affair and they have a wealth of experience from enterprises in London and Surrey. Enjoy a sandwich from the specials board at the bar or order from the main menu in the dining room or pub itself. On sunny days, sit in the garden and gaze across the green into open countryside: it’s a tantalisingly relaxing location to watch the world go by, on horseback, horse-drawn carriage and other modes of transport.

We visited last November on a crisp autumn day: Jane ordered a deep dish steak and ale pie with a puff pastry crust, mashed potato and vegetables. The filling was perfectly cooked, full of autumnal feistiness, the meat mouth-meltingly tender. I had the pork and pistachio terrine with goose rillettes and toasted sour dough. The terrine was a little dry but perfectly balanced by some wine jelly and they were happy to bring some more. The waitress also bought us a sample of their homemade soup to try, which was delicious. For dessert we shared a chocolate and cognac flan with salted butter caramel sauce with a hand made biscuit and ice cream.

Pork and pistachio terrine and Beef and Ale Pie

A disappointing finish, as the flan had been microwaved (a pet hate of ours), which made the pastry soggy. We didn’t finish it and explained why we had left it. Without hesitation the dessert was removed from our bill. We felt that they had been extremely professional as the meal had been delicious apart from the dessert.

Bar menu, Pub from the road and Cognac and chocolate flan

On a summer visit I sampled a starter from the main menu: scallops in sauce vierge. This was an interesting version of this sauce, a little more cooked than you would expect a true vierge to be. It worked well, as the bacon and tomato flavours accented the fat juicy scallops with great aplomb. It was essential to try another dessert: this time I couldn’t resist lemon sponge with vanilla ice cream and lemon curd. The lemon curd was tart and sweet, a perfect match for the warm sponge and cold ice cream.

Scallops in sauce vierge, cut juicy scallop and lemon sponge pudding

I have a niggling feeling that the sponge might have also had its molecules realigned by waves generated by a magnetron, but the food is good enough to withstand this very slight criticism. I got chatting to some American tourists, who had also had a great lunch. We agreed that the setting and food in this pub was worth the journey through some gorgeous Surrey countryside.

01306 621 339

The Parrot Inn