Tag Archives: fresh fish

Smoky Gravad Lax

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My family have roots in Eastern Europe so I grew up with Gravad Lax, a cured salmon dish. It’s little lighter than smoked salmon and very easy to make. Because you are curing not cooking you must start off with very fresh fish. I usually fillet my own but get the fishmonger to do it for you if it’s easier. You could also buy a ready prepared fillet of salmon or salmon trout. Just run your finger down the fillet to feel if any bones are still intact, if so remove them (I have special fish tweezers but use you fingers if you don’t have any). It is essential for slicing that you retain the skin. This is a recipe that uses a ratio and it’s this; for each 450g of fish use 25g sugar and 25g salt. To give mine a luxuriously smoky finish I used some smoked salt I bought in France but Smoked Maldon sea salt will do just as well and this year for the very first time smoked sugar too. I saw a tweet about this lovely new product and contacted the producer who kindly sent me a tin to try. Made is small batches its described on the company website thus

“Handcrafted in Scotland by a kilted Highlander, Smoky Brae Smoked Sugar is lovingly cold smoked low and slow using a secret blend of hardwoods to achieve a unique rich full bodied SMOKY flavour to compliment cocktails, cooking and confection.  The demerara cane sugar produces sweet caramel flavours“.

Its the first time I have come across smoked sugar and I love it. Plus it’s a versatile product which would go wonderfully on a cocktail glass ( something with a chocolate liqueur or Cointreau would be gorgeous) or use it on crème brûlée or in savoury dishes like me.

Gravad Laxsalmon canapes
1 fillet of fresh salmon or salmon trout (skin intact)
25g of sugar and 25g salt mixed to each 450g of fish
I large bunch chopped dill (optional)

Pat the fish dry with some paper towel and then place cut side down in a large dish big enough to lay it flat. Sprinkle over half the curing mix and rub it gently into the skin. Flip the fish over and rub the cut side with the remaining cure. If you are using dill press it onto the fish. Cover the dish in cling film and leave to cure for 48 hours turning every 12 hours. During this time the salt and sugar will draw the water out of the fish. Its perfectly safe to eat without cooking as the salt kills off any bacteria and removing the water also makes it an impossible environment for them to survive. After 48 hours remove the fish from the cure and discard the liquid. Place the fish on a chopping board and cut into very thin slices as required. This will last for 3-4 days in the refrigerator but will also freeze really well too.

gravad-lax-trio

I use Gravad Lax to make canapés for the festive season or when entertaining. If you want to keep the calories down use slices of fresh cucumber for a base and top with salmon and a garnish. I use seasoned crème fraiche, whole grain mustard, chives, thyme and fish roe amongst other things. I also love fresh flower seasoning from Uncle Roy’s Commestible Concoctions they look great plus they are dried so always in stock and ready to use.

If I serve the fish as a starter with some salad leaves I would use a whole grain mustard dressing and serve with some warm fresh brown bread.

Gravad Lax Dressing

2 tbsp wholegrain Dijon mustard
1 tbsp caster sugar or Smoky Brae smoked sugar
1 tbsp white wine vinegar
1 tbsp chopped fresh dill (optional)
Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Mix the ingredients together thoroughly and leave to stand allowing the sugar to dissolve in the liquids before using to garnish the salmon.

Please note whilst  I was sent this product by the producer to review I only write and publish reviews of products I really like! Quite honestly anything smoked gets a big thumbs up from me.

You can buy this product online and it should be in some delicatessens and farm shops in Surrey soon.

The Cock Inn

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Cock Inn Mark EvansChurch Lane, Headley, Surrey KT18 6LE

New gastro pub by dynamic independent food and drink family Red Mist 

The Upside: Great food and drink menu with a positive lean towards seasonal and local on both counts

The downside: A little inconsistency in dishes served on my recent visit

The flipside: This is a pub group with high standards so it’s likely that any teething problems will get swiftly sorted

Driving through some classic Surrey countryside the arrival at this newcomer to the Red Mist Group is full of anticipation! Some of you will already know the Queens Head in East Clandon (my local) and the Stag in Eashing Lane near Milford. If you do, it will come as no surprise that this venue has been treated to the same quality facelift as the other members of this growing family. A large working fireplace creates a focus to the bar room and the outside area has a deck for additional seating in good weather. They have shared menus within the chain but allow chefs to strut their own personal style with the ‘specials’. The PR team had told me that Head Chef, Mark Evans had spent a lot of his early career down-under so I was looking forward to an Antipodean influence on the menu.

cock in starter

I met up with fellow foodie Sally Iddles and as we perused the menu it felt familiar (we are both regulars at their other venues) but not identical. The specials menu, while lacking any promised Aussie vibe had fresh clams in white wine as a starter (my choice at £7.90) served with toasted Chalk Hills focaccia. We also selected the camembert and asparagus tart with roast tomato relish (£6.95). Fresh soup of the day was leek and potato (£5) served with bread and we already know the chicken liver paté with chutney (£7.90) is a winner. My clams were fresh, plump and cooked to perfection. They arrived at the table piping hot and with a surprise squeeze of fresh lemon. The bread on the side, although toasted, softened willingly in the clam broth. Whilst I was charmed with my starter the Camembert tart was failed to wow A moulded pastry case had been simply filled with camembert and left in the oven to melt. Topped with rocket leaves and served with a drizzle of basil oil and what seemed to be red onion jam and no sign of the asparagus.

camembert tart

For mains we ordered again one dish from the printed menu and the other from the specials board. My pork fillet with apricot and sage stuffing on fondant potato, stem broccoli, rhubarb chutney and Hazy Hog jus (£15.50) was a generous portion and plated with confidence. In contrast the fish from the specials board lacked finesse both in its presentation and execution. Torbay sole served with prawn and caper butter (£17.90) sounded like a great combination and the fish was served on the bone (which was good) but lacked the back-up attitude that capers can contribute. The poorest element was the crushed new potatoes that were overcooked. The fish itself was perfectly cooked, delicate and fresh and my pork dish was tender, tasty and melt-in-the-mouth.

main at the cock

Not deterred we moved on dessert selecting a baked cheesecake with vanilla ice-cream and a pannacotta (both £5.95). The cheesecake looked as though it could have been bought in but we were reassured that it had been made on site. Not oversweet it confirmed the ‘homemade’ label which was a definite ‘plus’ . The texture was firm and creamy but we both felt the accompanying ice-cream was an odd match. This was very sweet with a metallic twang and spoilt the overall taste profile. The panna cotta was served in its dish and too firm for my liking. Pannacotta is usually served out of its mould and should have real ‘wobble’ leading to a easily yielding creamy texture. We had coffee to finish and concluded that there had been some great elements to our meal.

cock in desserts

Chatting to Chef Mark Evans it was clear they are finding their feet in their new venue. I really like this small independent chain and love the fact they have local beer, use local products like Norbury-Blue Cheese (the only cheese made in Surrey), and prepare the majority of food from scratch in each venue. Mark is keen to bring in some of his culinary creativity from down-under but feels the business has to consolidate before they shake things up. He is, in his own words ‘playing-it-safe’.

It’s early days for this pub-dining venture and if they can iron out the wrinkles I am sure it will become as popular as their other dining rooms.

cockinnheadley.co.uk

01372 377258

red mist family

 

 

Toby Cottage Restaurant

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toby_cottage_exterior High Street, Ripley, GU23 6AF

 A charming, old-fashioned restaurant with a contemporary twist

 Go there for: Retro classics, heaps of fresh vegetables and flambé specials.

Avoid: Being influenced by the website, which suggests a more modern vibe.

Is it worth the calories?: You get a well-balanced plate here.

Tips: This is perfect for those who appreciate service and a dessert trolley.

Toby Cottage welcomes you to the food culture of the 1970s (the good bits), the era it opened. The sixteenth-century oak-beamed interior may be intact but subtle changes to the menu and a change of ownership have ensured its continued existence.

Classic flambé dishes Crêpes Suzette and Steak Diane are firm fixtures alongside a heaving dessert trolley.  Our amusing waiter Daniel (the flambé expert) was happy to tell us he’s been waiting tables here for 22 years – a rare loyalty that we saw as a jolly good sign. Choosing from the lunch menu (3 courses for £19.50 or 2 courses for £15.00), we kicked off with a tapas-style starter of chorizo cooked in red wine with olives. The chorizo was spicy and tender, suggesting authentic, quality ingredients. The plump olives added a satisfying richness to the piquant sauce. We used the fresh bread from our basket to mop it up. It was to good to see melba toast here too, another nod to a former culinary era.

toby_cottage_trio_1

We shared the starter so were ready to wade into our substantial mains. My calves’ liver was cooked pink as requested; and although the gravy may have had a run in with the gravy browning it was robust and complemented the meat. The crunchy bacon added texture and saltiness to the dish. My daughter’s salmon was perfectly cooked: moist, fresh and flaky and enhanced by a knob of herb butter and a heap of fresh rocket. The meal was fully elevated when the fresh vegetables arrived. These had clearly been cooked to order, arriving vibrant in colour and steaming.

toby cottage_main_dessert_trio

We so enjoyed our lunch that we decided to share a light dessert from the trolley of pudding heaven. Our crème caramel had been cooked in a slightly hot oven but had the ‘we made it from scratch’ flavours of a proper pudding. It wasn’t too sweet and had just the right amount of eggy resistance on the tongue. We could have gone for any of the chocolaty creations, a summer jelly or a fresh-fruit salad – perhaps next time.

Here you feast on more that just food. For me it brought backs lots of memories of eating out with my parents. My dad, who hated the pretention of modern fine dining (which I love), would have felt at home, particularly as he liked having food cooked for him at the table. Few waiters are trained to do this now.

When Spaniards Tony Trias and Tony Trillo bought The Toby Cottage as a going concern they decided that change was unnecessary.  With an established clientele and brisk trade this seems to have paid off; six years later they are pleased with the addition to their portfolio. Their ethos is to buy top-quality ingredients – Smithfield for meat and a fish supplier who delivers daily. Their regulars love Dover sole, sea bass and lobster from the à la carte menu.toby cottage_9x6

They don’t like to experiment too much with food here and that seems to be their selling point. However you will find some more modern classics (scallops and pea purèe) alongside more traditional dishes. If you can get past the Toby jugs and dated décor, it’s worth giving this eatery a try. I’m glad I did.

www.tobycottage.co.uk

Tel: 01483 224225

Shirlee Posner
Text and images Shirlee

 

 

Secretts Farm Shop

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secretts derek cheese_6x9Hurst Farm, Chapel Lane, Milford, GU8 5HU

Upside: Fabulous seasonal produce complimented by a staggering array of culinary ingredients, top notch meat and the best stocked cheese counter for miles

Downside: There is only one Secretts in Surrey but even if it’s a hike its worth a visit!

Flipside: The farm shop is also home to Black Barn Butchers, Eliza’s Tea Room and an ethical clothing and accessory shop Jo’s unLTD.

Today Secretts in run by father and son team Charles and Greg Secrett but they partly owe their success to their fascinating heritage.  The story starts with Charles’s grandfather who chose horticulture from the range of options open to a young man in the early 1900’s. Starting his first growing venture in 1908 he was, by the time he died a legendary figure known for his innovative growing techniques, irrigation inventions and mobile glasshouses. In addition he was passionate about training and education and responsible for igniting a passion for horticulture to those he came into contact with. His great grandson Greg has carried on his tradition for growing and as well as supplying Secretts famous salad leaves to virtually every restaurant in the South East of England he also grows a huge range of speciality vegetables for many top London restaurants. On direct dial to many of London’s most feted chefs (I wouldn’t say no to his contacts list) his veg portfolio has true street credibility. The 100 acre farm whilst having a thriving wholesale business also grows for their own farm shop so while supply is seasonal; its food metres not miles here.

secretts_greg_kale

Entry into the EU in the 1970’s, industrial farming methods and supermarket buying methods all impacted on their original business model. The farm shop opened in 1979 as the family had to diversify their business. In the few years following they added a pick your own service where raspberries, strawberries, gooseberries, peas, beans and other English garden classics are available throughout the summer. Recent innovations include poly-tunnels with table top strawberries making them disabled friendly and wheelchair accessible, plus able bodied folk also find this more back friendly too.

secretts cheese of the month 6x9Entering the farm shop you are hit by the cheese counter a visual eye candy moment and a taste of what’s to come when you pass into the inner sanctum of food excellence. With over 200 varieties of cheese it’s beautifully managed by knowledgeable staff – ask for a sample or take advantage of featured cheeses. Membrillo, cheese honey and other complimentary treats top the counter and head on you’ll see the cheese biscuit selection. Thick Stockarns oatcakes, my favourites Peter’s Yard, Millers Charcoal damsels and other cheeseboard must haves are represented here.  To arrive at the deli section you are taken teasingly past the stunning array of biscuits and chocolate products from independents, artisans and bigger brands. Himalayan pink salt, chilli and lime the variety is endless. Past the cake decoration stand where I discovered Uncle Roy’s Commestible Concoctions for the first time (edible flower petals, crystallised rose and violets, marigold and cornflower)

secretts Uncle Roys

my cakes have never been better dressed. The large deli counter is heaving with pies, unusual scotch eggs (I spied onion bhaji last visit) quiches made on site plus free-range ham or salamis. Hillyers of Farncombe supply traditional bread and artisan sour doughs come from The Hungry Guest in Chichester and Farretti in Lodsworth.  Cakes are from Crosbies and Farmhouse Cookery, gluten free options from Mrs Crimbles (plus a free-from section with pasta and other staples).

secretts cheese9x6

 

The back wall is home to sauces, mustards, pesto’s and pickles while further on olives, oils, vinegars can be found. Cous-cous, basmati & Thai rice plus top quality pasta is next while a central island is home to help yourself olives, chillies and other pickled treats. Vintage food tins, designer napkins, cards and other and other gift shop items are also for sale.

Different from other farm shops, Secretts has a huge selection of meat, jams, preserves, herbs, spices, baked goods, and frozen food. There is a help-yourself ethos so you can buy herbs and spices by the gram, frozen berries by the kilo, or even frozen croissants.  A great selection of pre-packed spices from the Seasoned Pioneer, superb Lebanese pomegranate molasses and lots more gourmet ingredients for those dabbling in secretts turnocks6x9world cuisine can be picked up here.

Dotted around the shop are also foodie items that will get the memories flooding back! Tunnock’s retro packs of caramel chocolate treats and oddballs like Fry’s chocolate cream.

Arriving at the final section of the shop holds fresh meat from Black Barn (who also have a retail outlet just outside the farm shop) and the fresh produce section. Fresh ginger, garlic (smoked and regular), lemon grass just hint at the exotics. Grown metres from the shop the salad leaf selection and season permitting golden and red beetroot and carrots, cabbage, salsify, kale, leeks, & parsnips. Dotted in-between are bought in items that supplement own grown. It’s a heady display of local and imported produce.

secretts veg collage

This is more than just a farm shop it’s a family run business with a soulful history. Charles and Greg Secrett have adjusted to the challenges of our political food system and kept the business thriving. The tea room Eliza’s recently taken over by Butter and Cream cakes is brighter with a tasty contemporary menu, the award-winning butcher on site sells rare breeds and free range meats. Even the boutique prides itself on sourcing fair trade jewellery and other items to its stock.

butchers and cheese

Although this review is really about the farm shop this venue has so much more to offer;  and if like me you want to support independents, you’ll find that’s what on offer here is hard to beat.

Tel 01483 520500

www.secretts.co.uk

 

Roasted rhubarb with mascarpone

Roasted rhubarb and muffins

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After a cold spell it’s warming to see the first show of forced rhubarb heralding spring. Intensely pink and wooingly desirable it’s a fabulous ingredient. Here are two simple but rewarding rhubarb recipes to inspire.

Roasted rhubarb with light lemony mascarpone

3 large stems of rhubarb cut into 10 cm sectionsroast_r_whole
2-3 dessertspoons of maple syrup or a good sprinkle of light brown sugar
1 x 250g tub of light mascarpone (full fat if you prefer)
2-3 tablespoons Greek yogurt
Zest of 1 lemon
a little sugar to sweeten
Edible cornflower petals to decorate (optional)

Pre-heat the oven to 190˚C/170˚C fan assisted/ Gas mark 5.
Place the rhubarb in an ovenproof dish and drizzle with syrup. Roast for 15-20 minutes and cool slightly.
Mix together the rest of the ingredients except the flower petals.
Divide the rhubarb between 4 plates and serve with a spoonful of mascarpone cream. Sprinkle with a few cornflower petals to serve.

To enliven this recipe, make a delicious, tart yet almost toffee-like sauce. In small pan heat 1 dessertspoon of pomegranate molasses and 2 dessertspoons of date syrup. Let the mixture just come to the boil then remove from heat and cool. Serve a spoonful with each plate.

Roasted chopped rhubarbRhubarb and ginger muffins
I saw this recipe ages ago on the Village Greens website. This is my variation.

2 free-range eggs
150g golden caster sugar
50ml sunflower oil
125ml natural yogurt
1tsp grated orange zest
½ teaspoon vanilla essence
300g sliced roasted rhubarb
300g plain flour
2tsp baking powder
½tsp bicarbonate of soda
½tsp salt
1tsp dried ginger
a few chunks of crystallized ginger, finely chopped

Pre-heat the oven to 190˚C/170˚C fan assisted/ Gas mark 5. Fill a muffin tin with 9 deep liners or 12 muffin cases.
Combine the eggs, sugar, oil, yogurt, rhubarb, orange zest and vanilla. Mix well. In a separate bowl, stir all the dry ingredients together thoroughly. Then mix the wet and dry ingredients together until just mixed.
Spoon into muffin cases and top each muffin with some ginger and bake for 25 minutes. Remove and cool on a rack.

At their best served while still warm

Roasted rhubarb and muffins

The Olive Tree

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The Olive Tree, Sutton Green Road, Sutton Green, Surrey, GU4 7QDOlive Tree interior

A haven of comfort and good food just a short drive from Guildford

Go there for: Local meat and fresh seafood in the stylish dining room or bar food on comfy sofas around an open fire.

Avoid: Vegetarian options: not always a good choice here.

Is it worth the calories?: The desserts are excellent so consider raising the bar on your recommended daily intake.

Tips:  Close to Guildford with a decent car park and good food, this pub is popular so book at weekends.

Stepping into this pub is like visiting a friend who really knows how to accent their home. It’s comfortable, welcoming and professionally run. In addition to a full bar and a la carte menu they offer bowls of olives and nuts (from Olives et al) to complement their carefully selected drinks catalogue – what a great idea.

This is Gill and Rupert Ponsonby’s third pub in Surrey and they feel they have made their mark here. Rupert heads up the kitchen and Gill manages front of house. Food can be ordered from the dining room à la carte menu or from a less formal blackboard with daily specials. They source their meat locally and fish comes in daily. They like to follow the seasons and game was just about to hit the menu. Rupert said regulars often order lobster and seafood platters for two in advance. A sharing platter of mixed shellfish including scallops, lobster and prawns is £40.80; the Côtes de Boeuf, a double rib of beef with trimmings, is £45.00. A beef platter arrived for our neighbours: impressive, but what a lot of food!

I was a little surprised when my grilled lamb and Greek salad (£14.95) arrived: the generous pile of meat had been unceremoniously plonked on top of the salad leaves. As this was served in a bowl I would have expected the lamb to be more thinly sliced.

Lamb salad, blueberry and lemon cheesecake and fishcakes

However, the meat was tender and delicious (although a little awkward to cut) and the salad with feta a great match. The salmon fishcakes (£10.50) were a hit, with the right balance of mash to the fresh pink salmon and the chunky chips piping hot and crisp. The blueberry and lemon cheesecake (£5.80) was creamy and intensely citrusy, balanced by the fruitiness of the blueberries; a swish of cream gave just enough moisture for the perfect mouthful.

On a return visit we sampled a steak with salad (£14.95) and a vegetarian dish. The steak was tender, tasty and faultless and the salad fresh and well dressed.  However the cashew-nut roast from the blackboard menu had huge potential but was distinctly underwhelming. It was served with roasted vegetables on a gorgeous orange red pepper sauce but the roast was modest in size and lacked both personality and cashew nuts. It just wasn’t great and at £10.50 a bit cheeky. Luckily we had room for pudding. The fresh red-plum crumble with vanilla ice-cream (£5.80) tasted of late summer, was comforting, warming and redeemed our spirits. It was a Greg Wallace moment: he would have loved it too.

Steak, plum crumble and smoked haddock risotto

The couple on the next table were tucking into a smoked haddock risotto and beef stroganoff. They had just moved to Guildford and found the pub by chance. They thought their food was delicious and we agreed that that the pub, the setting and food are good enough for a return visit.

The Olive Tree

01483 729999

Text and Images Shirlee
Text and Images Shirlee

Smoked mackerel pâté

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Whole smoked mackerel

Smoked mackerel pâté

I couldn’t resist buying a wonderful whole smoked mackerel from the Chelsea fishmonger. It’s a tiny bit more work using a whole fish but the superior flavour is worth the effort.

Simply remove the head, open up the fish to pull out the back bone (which should come away in one piece) and peel back the skin.

Place 250-300g of crumbled smoked mackerel fillet in a mixing bowl. Add 200ml of half-fat crème fraîche, the juice and finely grated zest of one unwaxed lemon and some finely chopped fresh chives. Season the mixture with freshly ground black pepper and mix to combine all the ingredients – it should retain some texture.  This is great piled on cucumber discs instead of bread for pre-dinner drinks. It also makes a lovely starter served with piping hot toast.

Smoked mackerel pâté

Shirlee and Jane Eat Surrey
Recipe and Images Shirlee
Pan fried mackerel, tomatoes and fresh thyme

Cornish mackerel, pan fried tomatoes and fresh thyme

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I picked up a couple of über fresh Cornish mackerel fillets late yesterday morning from the Chelsea Fishmonger in Guildford it was too late for breakfast and too early for lunch so brunch it became.

Sadly the Chelsea Fishmonger is no longer open in Guildford but if you are in Chelsea you can visit them here.

Here’s the recipe:

Splash some olive oil in a pan and when really hot add 6-7 halved small plum or cherry tomatoes , cut side down in the pan . Fry for 5 minutes.

Cut a bunch of fresh thyme, slide the leaves off the stalks and pat them onto the mackerel fillets. Place the mackerel fillets skin side down with the tomatoes: I cooked them for 3-4 minutes, then flipped them over for a couple more minutes. While the fish are cooking bring some water to the boil and poach an egg. I used a freshly laid egg from  Joes Farm Shop at Elm Nursery in Sutton Green.

Put the tomatoes on a plate and top with a handful of rocket leaves. Place the mackerel fillets across each other over the tomatoes and drizzle with a little good olive oil, a sprinkle of smoked sea salt and a twist or two of black pepper. Top with the soft poached egg and serve immediately.

I served this with a spoonful of chilli jam to add a kick – if you don’t have any a splash of balsamic vinegar works a treat.