Tag Archives: local cheeses

Platform 3 – The smallest pub in Britain

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Brightwater Brewery, Platform 3, The Parade, Claygate, Surrey, KT10 0PN

The upside: Lovingly crafted small batch beer available to drink in or take-away!

The downside: This pub is really small with short opening hours

The flipside: This really is the smallest pub in Britain selling a range of their own unique beers

If you turn into the parade towards Claygate Station in Surrey you’ll get a welcome surprise. As you venture forward independent retailers are on either side with traditional butchers, a fruit and veg shop, a top end traditional fishmongers, wine shop, deli, bakery and café. To top it all, right at the end next to the station is a tiny pub. Platform 3 has just enough standing room inside for two people, so when it is open guests rely on some outdoor tables with umbrellas to protect against the elements. This doesn’t stop the constant flow of customers coming to take a pint to drink straight away or take out for later. Everyone who comes in seems to know the owners and a strong sense of community is evident.

platform-3-sign-9x6

Alex started making beer with his dad when he was a teenager. Not, he says emphatically, with kits but from scratch with proper ingredients. He carried this on as a serious hobby during his IT career. When he was made redundant is 2012 he took six months off to recharge his batteries assuming he would just find another similar role to the one he had left. Economic turndown and age he suspected were not on his side. After six months he felt ready to attach himself to the world of work again and this time it was to start his own business. It seemed natural to him that a serious hobby that he had lots of expertise in and loved could become a full time job.

claygate-trio

First he set about equipping his brewery a huge research project but worth it to get it just right. This is housed in his garage at home with stainless steel professional equipment and is an official bonded warehouse. This is a government requirement for anybody who produces alcoholic drinks where duty is payable. Alex makes five beers on rotation from different recipes that produce golden, amber or dark ales. He lists availability on his website and these are available to drink in or take away. He reckons his beers are at their best at 3-4 weeks old and will only sell when they are in peak condition. To maintain this he brews batches to meet demand and as I discovered is a stickler for maintaining the drinking quality.

pub 9x6

Alex is the perfect landlord, chatty a beer aficionado plus he is extremely personable. In fact it would seem that this is the perfect career for him. He runs the business with his partner Sue (a business buff) so it’s a symbiotic combination of creativity and business acumen here too. The fact that all the beer he sells in the pub is his own brew is a real pull. Not just for the pints he serves but because he wouldn’t serve anyone a duff pint and he knows the stuff he sells from hops upwards. Whilst I was in the pub there was an endless stream of customers buying a pint to drink outside or to take away a firkin to share with friends later. Everyone is on first name terms and there is a sense of excitement that they are buying into something really unique.

Each of the beers on the menu currently in production have been through diligent recipe testing from the ambient temperature at which they are made to the type of hops and the ferment period. Beer, Alex confides is temperamental and there are many competing factors in getting each batch right such as your local water supply. No two batches will taste exactly the same because this is craft beer made by hand and each brew varies slightly with time of year and the affects of temperature, the raw ingredients and natural yeasts. This is part of the fun and like wine some brews are better than others but probably more so (I suspect) to an expert palate. Alex says that managing beer production is like bringing up a ‘petulant child’.

beer-trio9x6

Of the beers Alex makes, ‘Daisy Gold’ is the best seller (he named it after his dog who is apparently as ‘good as gold’). This light golden flavour packed beer is like others on his menu at around 4% volume. Alex specializes in what he calls session beer. It’s healthier and means you can enjoy a few pints in an evening and still walk home! This is particularly good for older drinkers and in line with current drinking advice from health professionals. In addition these beers are worthy of a more considered drinking session and deserve as such to be slowly imbibed.

Although golden ales are the most popular Alex also produces ‘Top Notch’ an amber ale which he makes with 2 different malts and dark-beer-claygateanother variety of hops. Citra is Brightwaters other golden ale, which gets its name from the hops used to make it. Known for its fresh lemony finish to beers ‘Citra’ has a zingier finish to ‘Daisy Gold’. This brewery also produces a rather unusual dark stout type beer called ‘Wild Orchid’. The use of black malt gives this its dark colour but by putting Madagascan Vanilla pods in each cask its also has a subtle hint of vanilla which doesn’t dominate but adds a lovely finish to the overall taste.

 

If you are a fan of craft beers I highly recommend a visit to Platform 3 it’s in a class of its own. With guest beers also on offer and other drinks for non-beer fans it’s a great afternoon out. Take-out, delivery for parties and ready bottled beer for gifts are also available. Go for the beer but also for the novelty value because this is the smallest pub in Britain!

Tel: 01372 462 334

Mob: 07802 316 389

Twitter @SmallestPubinUK

This review was originally published in Essence Magazine in February 2016

 

 

Norbury Blue

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Norbury Blue and Dirty Vicar Cheese.

Surrey only has one artisan cheese-maker but their delicious cheese is revered throughout the county. Highly regarded by farm shops, delis and featured on local menus its a product to be proud of.

Michaela Allam started making cheese from her dad’s milk in 2001. Travelling around farmers market to sell her cheese she met Neil a michaelaNorburyBluewatercress grower and love bloomed over their love of local food. Neil decided that watercress was a lesser love so he married Michaela and her cheese-making prowess and moved to Surrey. Now they work together blissfully making batches of their delicious cheese. Norbury blue is a soft blue cheese with a big attitude. Made with unpasteurised milk from Michaela’s father’s closed herd of Friesian cattle this is artisan food production as it should be. I went to see them in production but sadly had to share the cheese shed with a film crew who were making an educational movie so Neil showed me the ropes while Michaela was transplanted onto the big screen.

First off Neil explained that their milk is a huge element of the provenance of their final product. The cows are grazed on the farms meadows and milked twice a day. They mix the morning and evening milking as the first milking is the most nutritious (this also changes in quality during the seasons, summer milk being of a higher quality than winter milk). The essential element here is a high percentage of buttermilk; it’s the richness of this that adds a creamy mouth-feel to the ripened cheese. Cleaning up on arrival, hairnets and plastic overshoes in place we went into the red brick dairy. In the centre, a huge cooling and heating tank holding 900 litres of milk. Deposited after the milking last night, chilled and allowed to settle. You can see a layer of buttermilk glistening on the surface. In preparation the milk has now been heated to around 30° the prime temperature for the addition of a bacterial culture.

Norbury_farm

Different cheeses have different bacteria added depending on what flavour and texture you want to achieve. Bacteria that like protein are used in soft cheese making (I studied this at university luckily) which ensure a creamy soft finish. The bacteria used here is also responsible for the blue mould growth that adds the distinctive flavour. After Neil had stirred in the culture the milk is left for just under an hour to allow the bacteria to do its magic here.

making_cheese_1800_900

Hearing a commotion outside, Neil took me to see the cows being brought down for milking. These are lucky cows living in prime meadows and allowed free range. Norbury Farm is near Box Hill hidden away from the road and hard to find too. I arrived driving down a public footpath which Neil assured me was the only access road to the farm. Nestled at the bottom of the hill the red brick nineteenth century farmhouse and outbuildings create an idyllic environment from the weather vein on top to the lush green fields.

It was time to go back to the milk as at this stage, regular stirring has to take place which Neil has alerts set up on his mobile phone (how did we ever manage without them). Every ten minutes the milk is stirred with a charming pink spade and finally its time to add the vegetarian rennet. Rennet makes the curd and whey separate, as it’s the milk solids that make cheese. Milk has a high water content, which is why you need so much of it. Neil starts to pull a huge circular cheese wire through the solidifying milk. This helps release the whey which is collected into a drainage system and recycled to enrich the soil for winter feed production. The curds are obvious now and Neil used a large plastic jug to pour the sloppy mixture into the waiting moulds. The curds are left overnight then removed from the moulds and rubbed with salt. After salting the cheeses are taken to a holding room, warm and humid to encourage mould growth and then to a maturing room. The cheeses are ripened for 6-8 weeks, hand turned every couple of days after which they are dispatched for sale.

cheeses_1800_900

About four years ago Neil and Michaela added a new cheese to their portfolio. This took investment and planning for a new ripening room as its made with a different culture to Norbury Blue. They were struggling to find a name for their soft white cheese with a crumbly creamy texture and Camembert style rind. An incident in the local pub one night came to their rescue as a local vicar was leaving and a fellow drinker muttered under her breath “dirty vicar” a reference to the fact that he had remarried swiftly after the death of his first wife. They had been searching for a whimsical name after seeing the success of Stinking Bishop (a real cheese featured in a Wallace and Gromit movie) and this they decided immediately was it. It’s a lovely cheese with a charming story and great conversation piece for your cheeseboard.More recently Neil and Michaela have added a third cheese to their portfolio, Tipsy Vicar. This is Dirty Vicar that has been marinated in beer to give it a alcoholic glow and richer flavour profile. Its not available all the time but a lovely seasonal addition to their range.

You can buy Norbury Blue and Dirty Vicar cheese from many farm shops and delicatessens in Surrey and farther afield a full list of stockists can be found on their website.

www.norburyblue.co.uk

 

Tea

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56 High Road, Reigate, RH2 9ATcarolynne migh tea

The upside: One of the most interesting loose-leaf tea menus in Surrey!

The downside: Closed on Sundays

The flipside: A lovely independent selling a menu that embraces single blend teas with locally produced food

This café is as its name suggests is all about tea. Carolynne Farrer (a former HR specialist) always dreamed of owning her own tea business. Made redundant a few years ago she chatted with her sister about her idea. Convinced she was all talk her sister remarked that she would never actually do it. This was the challenge that Carolynne needed and TEA is now 1 year old.

Located in historical Reigate, on the High Road the interior has been playfully created to give a vintage retro feel. The counter is painted red and decorated with old knitting patterns. These are so evocative to me of childhood especially if you had a knitting crazy granny like me.

Tea Reigate kintting patterns

Here you will find that all aspects of the small but delightful menu have been carefully devised. The kitchen is very small so the menu reflects this. Tea (some organic) Organic coffee (from Beanberry) and proper hot chocolate dominate the drinks menu. On the food side its doorstop sandwiches featuring local cheeses. High Weald for Sister Sarah goats cheese and Sussex Charmer from Bookhams are just 2 examples.

Tea is the specialty here so I chose a pot of Chinese Jasmine Silver Needle. All teas are loose-leaf and placed intotea at migh tea an unbleached filter to brew. Each variety needs different times to infuse so are served with a timer and brew time advice. You can find a full description of all the teas on the website but staff here are keen to share their knowledge and discuss options. Tea comes from an independent tea merchant in Winchester who share their knowledge and passion for this unique drink with Carolynne. The tea menu is divided into normal (£2), special (£2.50) and superior (£3.75) for a generous pot. My tea was deliciously aromatic and soothingly smooth to drink.

To eat I selected a Welsh Rarebit made with one of my favourite cheeses Sussex Charmer (£3.75). The cheese here is combined with herb mustard and Worcester sauce and was deliciously satisfying. Bread is from the Chalet Bakery an independent business in Tadworth. My companion Sarah from ‘Little Spice’ had a doorstep sandwich with Sister Sarah goats cheese. This was served with a salad garnish and vegetable crisps (£5.25). The sandwich menu changes weekly featuring local produced ingredients. Other menu items include home-made soup (changing daily) with bread (£4.75) or a Ploughmans served with pickles, local fruit chutney and oatcakes (£6.75). Generous portions make this a value for money destination too!

food trio sandwiches

tea timer_migh tea

To finish Sarah chose a pot of Organic coffee and a rich chocolate brownie. So although this is a tea room coffee drinkers won’t be disappointed served in a cafetiere (my favourite style) as Carolynne didn’t want the aroma of coffee to dominate the venue. With coffee you get to choose your roast too! I had a slice of gluten free orange and polenta cake. It was rich, moist and intensely orangey. Made by a local baker the cakes change during the week and are displayed tantalisingly under glass cake stands (£2-£3.50) .

cake trio

If you like me get mightily fed up with predictable high street chains, Tea in Reigate will give you a refreshingly different experience.board outside shopFresh locally produced food, fabulous tea menu and lovely people, it is well worth a visit.

www.migh-tea.com

For high tea reservations call 01737246251

Thanks to Sarah from ‘Little Spice’ for introducing me to this great tea-house!

Village Greens Farm Shops

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Award winning ethical farm shops in Ockley and Dorking run by owners Catherine and James Dampier who have stuck hard to their founding principles 

The upside: This is ethical trading at it’s finest with all suppliers fully researched before products are listed 

The downside: Be prepared to pay for quality and integrity but its totally worth it

The flip-side: Both shops are in lovely locations and at Ockley you can enjoy a take-away coffee in their very own bee garden across the road

Full details of both shops are listed below

James and Catherine Dampier gave up successful jobs to start their food business and through hard work and determination have made their mark. In a climate where spurring food retailers are eager to undercut each other and suppliers how did a business set up on ethical principles fare?. Its eight years since the first Village Greens shop opened in Ockley near Dorking. They wowed locals with their well sourced range of preserves, chutneys, local cheeses and meat. Word of mouth, local press, social media and a changing perception of food buying have all played a part and with two shops under their belts and a loyal following this business is thriving. James and Catherine are the first to admit this hasn’t been easy but this creative innovative couple have dug their heels in and stayed the course where others have not.

With their first shop in Ockley they also have an acre of land to grow their own produce and flowers. In the summer months they sell their home own salad leaves, fresh herbs, courgettes, beans, kohl rabi and fruit. What they are not able to supply themselves is sourced locally from within a 30 miles radius of the shop. Currently they have eighteen suppliers who are within ten miles who provide beef, lamb, chicken, sausages, ice cream, wine, chocolates, bread, milk, cream, cheese, cakes and more. Providing a fair deal to their suppliers is part of their winning ethos as is employing local people to help in the shops. This also extends to using local materials and tradespeople proving that with a little extra thought and care this is an achievable aim.

At Denbies they also grow vegetables and flowers in the walled garden on the site loaned to them by the owners for this purpose. This means that in season the produce for both shops has travelled metres to be sold. In addition to the farm shop they also sell garden plants including herbs. This shop also has a deli counter where cheese and charcuterie can be cut to order rather than just pre-packed items.

It’s the food here of course that creates the winning element for me and I just wished I lived a little closer to be a more regular shopper. Those lucky enough to do so can take part in the vegetable box scheme too. These are prepared every Friday for pick up at either of the two shops are for delivery providing you live between Ockley and Dorking. Both shops boast a eclectic stock of cooking ingredients, fresh free range poultry from Etherley farm, sausages from Bangers Galore. Luxury chocolate comes from a selection of local producers such as Cocoa Bonbon and Kokoh, artisan bread from Chalk Hills and Capel Bakery.

 

 

Village Greens hosts a  meet the producers days at their food fairs held every year and samples are a regular feature! last time I was lucky enough to sample Silent Pool Gin which is fabulous (and coming from a non gin drinker this is epic) and perfect lemon drizzle cake from Chalk Hills Bakery. On each visit you’ll find new stock, nibbles and a friendly knowledgable welcome. This venue gets a highly recommended from me!

Village Greens Farm Shops are located at:

Coles Lane
Ockley
Dorking, RH5 5LS
01306 713474

Denbies Wine Estate
London Road
Dorking, RH5 6AA
013606 880720

www.vgfarmshop.com

Spinach, feta and tomato tart in brazil nut pastry

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The nuts demand the use of food processor to make the pastry! This makes a large tart which is great when entertaining a crowd or if you love leftovers.

Ingredients (Pastry)spinach feta tart 6x8

175g fine plain whole-meal flour (stone-ground)

75g raw brazil nuts

125g fridge cold, salted butter, cut into cubes

Smoked sea salt (plain is fine too)

2 free range egg yolks (use the whites in the tart filling)

A little cold water but only if you really need it!

Filling

2 onions finely chopped, sautéed in a spoon of olive oil until soft

*200g cooked spinach, finely chopped (I used defrosted frozen leaf spinach)

300g cottage cheese

200ml semi-skimmed milk

6 large free-range eggs, plus the leftover egg whites from the pastry

2 dessertspoons of freshly chopped chives

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 x 200g pack of  feta cheese, crumbled

200g  of red and yellow cherry tomatoes, sliced

Method

Place the flour and Brazil nuts in the food processor and pulse until the nuts are finely ground. Add the butter and salt and pulse until you have a breadcrumb consistency. Drop in the egg yolks and pulse for 10 seconds. Leave the dough for a couple of minutes for the moisture to start being absorbed. Pulse again to form a dough. Do this a couple of times more and if you really need to, add a few drops of cold water. The dough should form in the processor bowl and leave the sides clean.

Remove from the bowl, wrap in cling wrap and leave to chill for at least 30 minutes in the fridge. While this is in the fridge, cook the onions and make the filling. In a large bowl, combine the spinach, cottage cheese, milk, eggs, chives and seasoning.

To line the flan tin hit the pastry gently to flatten with a rolling pin before rolling out as thinly as possible to fit a 28 – 30cm loose bottom flan tin. This pastry is very short and tends to crumble but you can press it all together again in the tin to make sure you seal any cracks or holes. Line with foil and baking beans and cook at 180oC/fan 160oC for 20 minutes.

Place the onions in the bottom of the pastry case and top with the crumbled feta cheese. Pour over the filling and top with the sliced tomatoes. Place in the oven for 30 – 35 minutes or until the filling has completely set. Cool for 20 minutes before serving.

Goes well with a green leaf salad tossed in a punchy dressing.

Serves 8   /Spinach and feta tart with tomatoes and brazil nut pastry

  • De-frosted spinach can be quite wet so its a good idea to just squeeze all the moisture out by wrapping it in some sheets of paper towel.

 

Text and images Shirlee

Secretts Farm Shop

Blog, Butchers, Cafes, Coffee Shop, Deli, Farm Shop, Food fair, food festival, Gourmet food shop, local food shop, Our blog, Tea Shop, , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

secretts derek cheese_6x9Hurst Farm, Chapel Lane, Milford, GU8 5HU

Upside: Fabulous seasonal produce complimented by a staggering array of culinary ingredients, top notch meat and the best stocked cheese counter for miles

Downside: There is only one Secretts in Surrey but even if it’s a hike its worth a visit!

Flipside: The farm shop is also home to Black Barn Butchers, Eliza’s Tea Room and an ethical clothing and accessory shop Jo’s unLTD.

Today Secretts in run by father and son team Charles and Greg Secrett but they partly owe their success to their fascinating heritage.  The story starts with Charles’s grandfather who chose horticulture from the range of options open to a young man in the early 1900’s. Starting his first growing venture in 1908 he was, by the time he died a legendary figure known for his innovative growing techniques, irrigation inventions and mobile glasshouses. In addition he was passionate about training and education and responsible for igniting a passion for horticulture to those he came into contact with. His great grandson Greg has carried on his tradition for growing and as well as supplying Secretts famous salad leaves to virtually every restaurant in the South East of England he also grows a huge range of speciality vegetables for many top London restaurants. On direct dial to many of London’s most feted chefs (I wouldn’t say no to his contacts list) his veg portfolio has true street credibility. The 100 acre farm whilst having a thriving wholesale business also grows for their own farm shop so while supply is seasonal; its food metres not miles here.

secretts_greg_kale

Entry into the EU in the 1970’s, industrial farming methods and supermarket buying methods all impacted on their original business model. The farm shop opened in 1979 as the family had to diversify their business. In the few years following they added a pick your own service where raspberries, strawberries, gooseberries, peas, beans and other English garden classics are available throughout the summer. Recent innovations include poly-tunnels with table top strawberries making them disabled friendly and wheelchair accessible, plus able bodied folk also find this more back friendly too.

secretts cheese of the month 6x9Entering the farm shop you are hit by the cheese counter a visual eye candy moment and a taste of what’s to come when you pass into the inner sanctum of food excellence. With over 200 varieties of cheese it’s beautifully managed by knowledgeable staff – ask for a sample or take advantage of featured cheeses. Membrillo, cheese honey and other complimentary treats top the counter and head on you’ll see the cheese biscuit selection. Thick Stockarns oatcakes, my favourites Peter’s Yard, Millers Charcoal damsels and other cheeseboard must haves are represented here.  To arrive at the deli section you are taken teasingly past the stunning array of biscuits and chocolate products from independents, artisans and bigger brands. Himalayan pink salt, chilli and lime the variety is endless. Past the cake decoration stand where I discovered Uncle Roy’s Commestible Concoctions for the first time (edible flower petals, crystallised rose and violets, marigold and cornflower)

secretts Uncle Roys

my cakes have never been better dressed. The large deli counter is heaving with pies, unusual scotch eggs (I spied onion bhaji last visit) quiches made on site plus free-range ham or salamis. Hillyers of Farncombe supply traditional bread and artisan sour doughs come from The Hungry Guest in Chichester and Farretti in Lodsworth.  Cakes are from Crosbies and Farmhouse Cookery, gluten free options from Mrs Crimbles (plus a free-from section with pasta and other staples).

secretts cheese9x6

 

The back wall is home to sauces, mustards, pesto’s and pickles while further on olives, oils, vinegars can be found. Cous-cous, basmati & Thai rice plus top quality pasta is next while a central island is home to help yourself olives, chillies and other pickled treats. Vintage food tins, designer napkins, cards and other and other gift shop items are also for sale.

Different from other farm shops, Secretts has a huge selection of meat, jams, preserves, herbs, spices, baked goods, and frozen food. There is a help-yourself ethos so you can buy herbs and spices by the gram, frozen berries by the kilo, or even frozen croissants.  A great selection of pre-packed spices from the Seasoned Pioneer, superb Lebanese pomegranate molasses and lots more gourmet ingredients for those dabbling in secretts turnocks6x9world cuisine can be picked up here.

Dotted around the shop are also foodie items that will get the memories flooding back! Tunnock’s retro packs of caramel chocolate treats and oddballs like Fry’s chocolate cream.

Arriving at the final section of the shop holds fresh meat from Black Barn (who also have a retail outlet just outside the farm shop) and the fresh produce section. Fresh ginger, garlic (smoked and regular), lemon grass just hint at the exotics. Grown metres from the shop the salad leaf selection and season permitting golden and red beetroot and carrots, cabbage, salsify, kale, leeks, & parsnips. Dotted in-between are bought in items that supplement own grown. It’s a heady display of local and imported produce.

secretts veg collage

This is more than just a farm shop it’s a family run business with a soulful history. Charles and Greg Secrett have adjusted to the challenges of our political food system and kept the business thriving. The tea room Eliza’s recently taken over by Butter and Cream cakes is brighter with a tasty contemporary menu, the award-winning butcher on site sells rare breeds and free range meats. Even the boutique prides itself on sourcing fair trade jewellery and other items to its stock.

butchers and cheese

Although this review is really about the farm shop this venue has so much more to offer;  and if like me you want to support independents, you’ll find that’s what on offer here is hard to beat.

Tel 01483 520500

www.secretts.co.uk

 

The Speckledy Hen

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The Speckledy Hen, Café & Deli, Shamley Green, Nr Guildford, GU5 0UBcathychristina_6x9

 A pretty, shabby chic parlour combining a café, gift shop and deli counter.

Go there for: Homemade specials, gourmet sandwiches, handmade cakes and bakes.

Avoid:  Not booking ahead for a large group.

Is it worth the calories?: Homemade soup and specials are well balanced but go easy on the cakes!

Tips: Parking can be a little restricted; the pub across the road has additional spaces.

speck_hen_exterior_9x6

When Cathy Garthwaite and Christina Collins met on the school run a few years ago they immediately became friends. Managing careers and children was stressful so they explored business ideas closer to home. With successful backgrounds in textiles and hotel and catering the idea of a stylish café for locals to enjoy evolved. When the Old Forge in Shamley Green came up for rent its interior of red brick and beams hit the right note and Cathy and Christina signed the lease. They bought all their equipment and furniture second-hand and, after painting and decorating, created a lovely space.

The Speckledy Hen (a name borrowed from a children’s book) opened in 2012 and quickly gained a loyal following. Pastel-painted furniture, carefully sourced gifts, traditional children’s toys and local-food products creates a feel-good atmosphere. It’s the perfect place to lift the spirits, leaving the politics of life firmly outside. You get the sense that this venture has brought more than just a new venue to this community. Many of the staff live just around the corner and, as they pointed out, it’s a lovely place to work.

red pepper tom soup _9x6

The kitchen is tiny so there is a limited but well-constructed menu. For breakfast choose from granola with yogurt and honey (£3.95), satisfying bacon butties (£3.95) or scrambled eggs served on artisan sourdough bread on its own (£5.95) or with bacon (£6.95) or smoked salmon (£9.95). Lunch options include an open and toasted sandwich menu (£7.50 plus) and Hen platters such as grilled haloumi, hummus, roasted peppers and grilled artichokes (£9.95). Daily specials might be Thai green curry (£9.95). There’s a good balance of vegetarian options and gluten-free diets are catered for. Fresh coffee is supplied by local roaster Coffee Real, tea is from Tea Pigs and cakes are made by Madeleine and Rachel, who live locally.

speck_hen_trio

For lunch we sampled Thai green curry with a wholegrain mixed rice (very healthy). The portion wasn’t huge but substantial enough. I thought the curry could have been feistier, but my daughter loved it. I had a bowl of tomato and red pepper soup with bread (£5.95): this over-generous portion was served on a hen-shaped board (it’s a bit of a thing here). Piping hot and extremely tasty, it had me quietly admitting that I couldn’t have made it better myself.

We managed to squeeze in a slice of rocky road (only 70% cocoa solids chocolate allowed here) and a granola-style fruity flapjack (£2.50): both were sweet, indulgent and satisfying.speck_hen_flapjack

The shop and deli sell a range of local and specialty foods including Ouse Valley preserves and Norbury Blue cheese. Bread is from the Hungry Guest in Petworth, and you can also pick up Kokoh chocolate hand produced by Joanna in Ewhurst . Take away and outside catering are also on offer. Although the menu states that food is locally sourced, that doesn’t extend to sausages and meat: a shame as there are so many great butchers in Surrey. But this evolving food business is a great addition to Surrey’s food destinations.

thespeckledyhen.com

01483 894567

Text and images Shirlee
Text and images Shirlee

Crumbs of Capel

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Crumbs of Capel The Old Brickyard, Coles Lane, Capel, RH5 5HPdineke_soda_bread

A small artisan bakery in Surrey Weald supplying totally handmade bread.

Buy from: Village Greens or the Dorking Food Float.

Avoid: Inferior factory-made imposters.

Is it worth the calories?: Traditional slow-fermented bread using ingredients with provenance gets an undisputed thumbs up.

Tips: Book onto Dineke’s course and learn how simple it is to prepare artisan breads at home.

Having sampled Dineke’s breads and fruited buns at Village Greens’ food festival last summer I snapped up a place at one of her bread courses. Offered in partnership with Village Greens in Ockley, the principal retailer for Crumbs of Capel, it seemed a perfect foodie night out. In confidence, luck has not been on my side in the sourdough department so I was secretly hoping this would turn things around.

dineke_trio

At a cost of £25 (including ingredients and dinner) I attended ‘Soda and Sourdough’ at the community hall in Capel. The evening started with a run through of the principles of sourdough starters. We prepared a sourdough bread first, which needed a couple of hours to rise, and then a speedy soda bread. While waiting for the bread to rise and prove, we had dinner and a chance to chat. Catherine Dampier, our Village Greens’ hostess, had put together a buffet of scrumptious products from the shop, all served with Dineke’s wonderful bread. Everything was local, carefully sourced and in perfect keeping with the ethos of the evening.

Nutbourne tomatoes, charcuterie, soft ewes milk cheese from Golden Cross Cheese Company and English Regional wine from Denbies

Making sourdough is a lengthy process, not to be confused with bread machines and easy-blend yeast. No, sour dough breads take time, a long time: when Dineke is baking for her retailers she makes the dough in the evening and ferments it all night. In the morning the dough is knocked back, kneaded again, formed into loaves and proved for another two hours. Then it’s ready to bake. But all the decisions are based on experience and timings can change each time you bake.

We were all provided with a portion of bubbling starter, which takes a couple of weeks to make. Warm water is added to flour to start the process, which encourages the growth of naturally occurring yeasts. This is fed with fresh flour and mixed and hibernated to create (eventually!) the bubbling, fermenting mass of batter characteristic of sourdough. Flour choice affects the result. We used Sharpham Park’s organic spelt flour for the sourdough and Doves Farm white organic for the soda bread.

making sour dough

Dineke’s course was jam packed with bread-making wisdom and tips but the most important was that to make your starter all you need is good-quality flour and some hand-warm water. It really is that simple. So why had I and so many other would-be sourdough bakers been sold the idea of fresh orange juice, raisins, bottled water and other mixtures? No wonder my previous efforts with strange concoctions in my airing cupboard had been a disaster.

sour_dough_rolls6x9Armed with a cup of starter, we added flour and a little more water and salt. We kneaded this for 10 minutes and formed it into four equal-sized rolls. We had a choice of seeds for toppings to add texture and nutrients – and to make it look good. We left this to rise while we got on with our soda bread.

For the soda bread we added bicarbonate of soda, the raising agent that gives soda bread its name, to white flour, then our choice of liquid: natural yogurt, milk, buttermilk or water. Kneading isn’t required, just a quick mix to form a soft dough. Ready to bake as soon as it’s made, we put our loaves in the oven while we tucked in to our dinner. Afterwards we had time to check our breads and troubleshoot.

If you don’t want to bake your own bread, Dineke supplies over a hundred loaves of bread a week to Village Greens (available fresh every day) and at the Dorking Food Float on Saturdays. Her gluten-free cheese biscuits and nibbles are available from Tanhouse and Kingfisher farm shops. Working to full capacity, Dineke has plans to convert her garage to a larger bake-house to increase production.

There are plenty of reasons why you should go to Village Greens in Ockley but this bread is near the top of the list for me.

www.crumbsofcapel.co.uk

01306 710087

Croissants chalk hills

Chalk Hills Bakery Shop and Cafe

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 75 Bell Street, Reigate, RH2 7ANChris & Rosie owners of Chalk Hills Bakery

A bakery and café delivering artisan bread and pastry magic to the lucky folk of Reigate.

Go there for: Handmade artisan bread, gorgeous pastries, tarts, and a bacon sandwich to shout about.

Avoid: Trying to resist anything in this café; it’s futile.

Is it worth the calories?: I should say so: this is the ultimate good food experience!

Tips: The sandwiches on the menu are fantastic but if you want a bespoke combination just ask.

Walking into Chalk Hill Bakery on a rainy autumn day to the smell of toasting bread and aromatic coffee is a truly uplifting experience.Chalk Hills Bakery shop front

Chris and Rosie Robinson sold their gastro pub, The Stephen Langton in Abinger Hammer, to start a proper artisan bakery. Coincidentally, Priory Farm had a kitchen to rent in the old tractor shed and in November 2010 the first loaves were sold in the Priory Farm shop.

Chris and his team make sour-dough bread by hand the old-fashioned way and let it rise naturally over a 2-day period to develop flavour and texture ­- don’t think of muttering Chorley Wood, dough improvers or high-speed mixing here. Sourcing fine ingredients such as Shipton Mill organic flour gives added provenance to their products. The long fermentation process means the bread stays fresh for longer and is easier to digest.

Chalk Hills Bakery produce 17 different loaves, including fig and walnut sour dough (£3.65), large rye (£2.75), and other classics such as ciabatta (£2.50) and focaccia with a selection of toppings (£3.95). They also make a Surrey bloomer (£1.75) and Italian sticks (£2.10). Even the yeasted breads have a flavour boost of sour dough starter and are slowly proved in a refrigerator. The full range of products is on sale at Priory Farm and at Chalk Hills Bakery every day. They sell wholesale to a handful of local businesses.

Artisan bread selection at Chalk HIlls

Chalk Hills Bakery has definitely got the X factor (but with classier music). It’s modern yet rustic, charming and friendly, and has a simple but innovative menu. They cleverly match their bread to the sandwich fillings so you get the best texture and flavour combination. In addition they make croissants, scones, sausage rolls (with free-range sausage meat from Bowles farm in Ewhurst). Ham and beef for their sandwiches are cooked in the bakery; meat comes from Robert and Edwards of Reigate. In fact everything on the menu is made at the bakery, even the soup.

The bread menu, sweet tarts and bacon sandwich on white bloomer

I tucked into their classic bacon sandwich made from Gloucester Old Spot free-range bacon on toasted Surrey Bloomer (£3.95). What a triumph! Crisp, salty bacon, sweet herb jelly and perfectly toasted bread. The Sage Jelly from local producer PickleCake Parma ham and mozzarella with sage jelly (produced locally by Picklecake) also caught my eye – next time! I rounded this off with a pot of Barry’s Irish tea. I’ve never heard of it but apparently if you are from Southern Ireland it’s the only tea to drink and Chris (who’s from Dublin) won’t sell anything else. Coffee comes from Union, a craft roaster in East London, and soft drinks from Luscombe organics in Devon.

Business has been booming ever since the bakery opened and they plan to open another shop. Just make a wish that it’s on your doorstep: I have.

www.chalkhillsbakery.com

01737669116

Food Fair at Village Greens, Ockley

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I went to my first Village Greens Food Fair in 2012 and have been raving about them ever since! The next one is on 19th July 2015 at their shop at Denbies Vineyard near Dorking.

To get a taste of the sort of event its likely to be see my review!

The sun shone on our visit to meet local food producers at the Village Greens Food Fair. James and Catherine Dampier have been running this fair for six years and it is a truly lovely afternoon

Catherine Dampier out. Held in the field opposite the shop, one of the highlights was admiring the produce they grow  to sell in the shop. We’re now looking forward to the first frost so we can enjoy cavola nero at its best! It was a perfect day to celebrate local food and a village shop that brings its local community together.

First we sampled some lovely honey products, made by the Sparkes family. Their award winning honey marmalade was unusual and delicious and their chilli and honey jam had a distinctive Thai edge.

You couldn’t help being drawn to the delicious aroma of coffee from a converted Citroen van.  Gary Best is the coffee oracle of Surrey. Coffee Real source the most wonderful coffee from all over the world and roast it in Capel . You can buy their coffee online and in local shops in Surrey and further afield.

Coffee Real - roasters of single origin and single estate coffee in Surrey

Next door was Crumbs of Capel, an artisan bakery who make sourdough bread, tea cakes and soda breads. This is real craft baking on a small scale. The depth of flavour of their rye bread is unrivalled and their teacakes a chewy flavoursome mouthful.

Yum Cha drinks are made on a farm in Leatherhead by Guy Woodall; his wife was offering tastings of their unusual take on iced tea. Refreshingly different, Jane and I sampled them all and liked the tart sour plum the best.

Yum Cha iced tea drinks

Cut and Dried is a relatively new company specialising in crispy or chewy dried fruit: their catchphrase ‘dried not fried’ says it all. These are intensely flavoured, chewy and perfect for lunch boxes, Mike Eposito of Cut and Dried snacks and dips. Beetroot would be perfect with a sour cream and chive dip for pre-dinner drinks. The pineapple is intensely flavoured and moreish: a great snack for fruit-phobic kids.

A tiny local business, the Jam Lady  offers  beautifully presented jams and preserves made in the traditional manner. A few, like the chilli jelly with lime, have a distinctly modern twist. She forages for wild plums and damsons and will use up your end of season rhubarb if you give her a ring! Currently she only sells at fairs and events; if you want to try her wares, contact her at thejamlady@hotmail.co.uk.

The Jam lady

A warm scent in the air took us to  Discerning Soups, who sell a small range of delicious soups and dips, including humus and smoked mackerel and tuna pates. Their  sweetcorn and bacon chowder was a sweet, salty piece of heaven and a sweet potato soup was as comforting as a warm loaf (with fewer calories).

Discerning Soups

Neil and Michaela, Surrey’s only cheese producer, were selling  Norbury Blue and Dirty Vicar cheese. Refreshments were provided by  Splendid Occasions, a new concept business who offer pop-up vintage tea parties. We stopped for a pot of Earl Grey tea and a chunky slice of millionaires shortbread.

Dee and Hannah served up tea and cakes vintage style

White chocolate Goupie with Lavender (image courtesy of Goupie)

Goupie make chewy chocolates that make great gifts. The white chocolate and lavender was satisfyingly different, the mocha a rich coffee flavour.We finished by trying most of High Weald Dairy’s cheeses; Jane bought some enticing Sister Sarah goat’s cheese as a gift, but it’s unlikely to make it to her sister Sarah!

High Weald dairy offering Haloumi cheese samples

Village Greens