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The upside: Delicious authentic Indian curries hand made by chef and storyteller Mandira who grew up on a tea plantation in her native India

The downside: No turning back after trying these dishes

The flipside: Available from farm shops and independent food retailers in Surrey

Mandira Sarkar is the creative force behind Surrey Spice. A management consultant, she worked in the public sector for many years helping organisations become more streamlined and productive. After her last large project with Guildford Borough Council ended, Mandira felt is was time to stand back and do something creative and more hands on. A love of her family’s cuisine and treasured handed down recipes inspired her to launch a calendar of pop up supper clubs. I was invited to one of the first she hosted with some other local food writers. Her supper clubs are all themed by festivals and ours for the evening was Holi the festival of colours. We were treated to a fabulous evening of Indian food and storytelling. The dishes were pure bliss, no overpowering chili hit, absolutely no puddles of oil just fragrant aromatic spices and complimentary textures. The desserts were amazing too. However whilst the food was as good as anything I have eaten in Singapore’s Little India (perhaps even better) it was really the delightful rhetoric from Mandira during the meal that made the evening sparkle.

A natural host Mandira embellished our evening with background information of each dish, a family party, watching her mother in the kitchen or a snippet of information about the festival. Holi commemorates the victory of good over evil, which culminates in the burning and destruction of a female demon named Holika.

Holi got its name as the “Festival of Colors” from Lord Krishna, a reincarnation of Lord Vishnu, who liked to play pranks on the village girls by drenching them in water and coloured powdered paint. The festival always held at the end of February or early March also marks the start of summer season. By the end of the evening the food entwined with vivid descriptions we almost felt we had been there ourselves. If Dev Patel had danced into the room none of us would have been at all surprised.

This was in February 2015 and I have followed Mandira on social media seeing her business grow. Supper clubs, while great for the guests are hard work and difficult to make a living from but great for getting your expertise recognised. Mandira had also started to offer take away food for pick up on Fridays from her home in Guildford too. Her supper clubs have popped up at local award winning distillery Silent Pool with Bollywood themed evenings and at Cellar Wines in Ripley, boutique wine shop and deli with a full events calendar. Cookery courses and bespoke catering are also on offer. In fact this entrepreneur has been so active that she has also been a finalist at the Surrey Life Food & Drink Awards for Food Innovation.

More recently Mandira decided the time was right to sell her freezer ready meals to farm shops and delicatessens. Making these fresh to order she delivers either fresh or ready frozen and she already has a keen following. There are so many Indian ready meals in supermarkets that Mandira fully supports her retailers by offering tasting events. These are a huge success as once bitten its difficult to resist the charms of these authentic dishes. After trying them myself I was delighted to get the opportunity to see them being made and hopefully get some trade secrets.

I arrived on a cold morning to watch the magic happen in this Surrey kitchen. Mandira has managed to find a lady from Goa to help her prepare her wonderful dishes and another helper was on hand to help pack. On arrival the kitchen was in full production, huge wooden spoons were used to stir giant pans of dhal and Dhania Kugu Murgh (chicken with cashew nuts and coriander). A curious machine was whirring on the work surface and from the aroma I could tell I was in curry nirvana. I was astonished at the amount of detail that goes into the dishes. No jar of Balti curry paste has ever been welcome in this kitchen. Instead the dishes are all authentic regional recipes which are made exactly as they would be in Indian homes. Mandira explains that dishes like tandoori chicken masala don’t exist in India but her dishes Xacutti chicken and Meen Moilee do.

I watched the Dhania Kagu Murgh (chicken in a delicate sauce of cashews, coriander and coconut) being created from chopped skinless chicken thigh meat, fresh coconut and coriander . Thigh meat is a preferred cut for traditionalists as its more tender and juicy than chicken breast ( a sentiment I found when I lived in Taiwan too). The curious whirring machine it turns out is a stone grinder for spices. Used in modern Indian kitchens and powered by electricity, Mandira had it bought to the UK by a friend in her suitcase. The only recognisable part of this machine is the name Prestige but its essential for the texture it creates when it grinds ingredients. In the machine I witnessed fried onions being ground with fresh coconut. The resulting pulp seasons and thickens the gravy. Using fresh coconut is essential says this chef whose attention to detail is emerging fully here. It is apparently, this way can you recreate the level of flavour and texture desired in the dish.

After this dish was made a second went into production Chicken Xacutti for whom a whole bowl of Kashmiri red chilli that had been steeped in water was ground with coconut too. A batch of Lehsuni Dal (yellow lentils cooked in caramelised garlic) was ready to portion up but first we sampled a small bowl each. Satisfying, spicy, smooth and aromatic it’s a delight to find such brilliant Indian food being made locally. Mandira sources her ingredients from a local Indian food retailer who also has a butchers counter so her business supports other local food businesses too. Currently there are ten dishes available in the ready meal range one of which is a Paneer (Indian cottage cheese) cooked in spinach which is the best I have ever tried.

I highly recommend these new freezer ready meals. They are beautifully cooked in small batches in a spotlessly clean kitchen. The effort and expertise that goes into their production is hard to beat and the recipes are totally authentic. In addition they are all gluten free and contain no preservative. Its just really good food!

Mandira’s amazing food is currently for sale in several farm shops in Surrey and a full list can be found on the Surrey Spice website.

www.surreyspice.com

Tel: 07876135096

Email info@surreyspice.com

Delicious traditional meat pies made by hand for farm shops and direct to the public in true cottage industry style!

The upside: Locally made using quality ingredients, these pies are the best for miles.

The downside: Not available outside Milford currently, but that might change in the future.

The flipside: You are supporting a new food start up when you buy Carolyn’s pies and helping to keep the local economy afloat!

These meat packed home-baked pies are made with top quality ingredients by experienced dedicated pie maker Carolyn who is famed for her culinary prowess. Delicious products like these are the epitome of what a really good, meat pie should be! Quality local ingredients, fresh stock, gravy and of course perfect handcrafted pastry.

I love modern contemporary cooking but sometimes you seriously need a throwback to the traditional. Meat filled pies with gravy or a creamy sauce are part of our food culture. Eel pies sold by hawkers in London were one of the first fast foods we had and there are still some old school pie and mash shops around the UK. When done well a meat pie is hard to beat but they take time and a good skill set to confidently produce. On a recent visit to Secretts Farm Shop I met Carolyn Smith who had just started her own pie business, the pies she had just delivered looked fantastic and I wanted to find out more. Carolyn lives just a mile away from the farm shop in Milford so we arranged to meet. This pie-maker literally lives right down a leafy lane and luckily Carolyn warned me beforehand otherwise I probably wouldn’t have made it as far as Pie HQ.

On arrival I was shown into the newly built kitchen, the core of her business. Well designed, spotless and professional it was no surprise that Carolyn was awarded 5 Stars for food hygiene by Waverley Council. Unlike many small food business start-ups Carolyn knew exactly what she was getting herself into as she has years of pie making experience up her sleeve and her kitchen and its organisation reflects this. Starting her early career as a pub chef Carolyn took time out to raise her children. Returning to work years later Carolyn worked for Country Cooks who produced a range of pies for a local butcher. This gave her a really good understanding of what products sell in this category. This market sector is divided into hot and cold eating pies. Hot pies have meat or poultry with a gravy or white sauce, which creates a delicious middle to a good pastry case. Cold eating pies are known for hot water crusts (usually made with lard or white fat) and minced or cubed meat, which is finished with a jelly. When you boil down bones for stock it will solidify when its cold but you can add aspic or gelatine to achieve this too. This is added to the pie once it’s cooked to fill the cavity at the top and make it air tight and add texture and flavour.

There are a few commercial pie-making companies around but they tend to have a high sauce to meat ratio, thick pastry and lack the finesse of a handmade relative. Not surprising as it’s a business too so profit is king. This is where Carolyn is different. She prides herself on producing the real deal, the sort of pies that your granny would make packed with meat, chicken, ham, mushrooms or leeks. Carolyn for example makes pies for Black Barn Butchers in Milford using their meat. Free-range chicken, ham and beef is poached or casseroled and seasoned into scrumptious fillings. These are then chilled and packed into pastry cases. You can buy these from their fridges and freezers to cook at home. In contrast pies for the farm shops are ready cooked and will just need heating through again before eating. These pies come in foil trays and should be reheated in an oven and not in a microwave. Microwave ovens heat food by vibrating the water molecules and with this destroy the texture making pastry soggy to eat. The oven should be your choice here.

On pie production days Carolyn works with her sister Sally who looks after the paperwork for the business. The day before a pie making session Carolyn prepares the fillings and pastry. Poaching chickens she reserves the stock for the silky white sauce that accompanies the filling. Beef is cooked with red wine for some recipes and mushrooms for other. She rings her regular customers for orders and then may also have a few additional pies to make for individuals. As a new business but with a hardcore following Carolyn sells direct to consumers as well as butchers and farm shops. Secretts were the first farm shop to take her pies as they knew of her from Country Cooks they were keen to support her new venture realising that their customers would love her fabulous pies. The price of these pies reflects the level of filling and quality of the ingredients, individual pies start at £3.85 and a larger one for 2 from £8.75 a keen price given that similar products are inferior.

On pie making days Sally put on her apron too as she is key here to making a production day go smoothly. Carolyn makes a core range of products but once a pie is finished it has to be identified. So here the trick is to use pastry cut outs in the form of animals and letters. So a chicken and leek pie will have a chicken pastry topper and the letter L on top. No chance of a mix up here. The day I was there they were producing pies for Black Barn and Secretts. So all the meat for this came from the butcher. David Mitchell’s meat is always top notch and its all local too apart from the chicken, which, comes from Crediton. The pies are produced and baked to a strict production sheet. Filling for each pie is weighed and labelled, brushed with an egg glaze before being labelled and baked. Chilled and packed for delivery later in the day this is as close to an old school cottage industry as you can get.

It is really heart warming to see that the local food movement is alive and kicking in our county.

For orders email Carolyn at Carras.60@gmail.com

Currently this business does not have a website, Facebook page or twitter feed.

Eat Surrey

Reviewer of Independent Food Businesses in Surrey

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