Tag Archives: Ripley

Cellar Wines

The Old Cellar, High Street, Ripley, Surrey, GU23 6BB

The upside: A truly inspiring wine and cheese shopping experience!

The downside: Only open 5 days per week, but until 8pm.

The flipside: Fantastic tailor made and off the shelf events!

When Cellar Wines opened in Ripley it was impossible to predict what an impact this unassuming new wine retailer could possibly have on our wine loving community. Ripley itself has emerged over the last few years as a bit of a culinary hotspot. Drakes a Michelin star restaurant is opposite, Pinnock’s an award winning coffee shop has been pivotal too, plus a fantastic farm shop at A. Luff & Sons at Ripley Nurseries on the outskirts of the village. In addition, local community leaders set up a monthly farmers market (second Saturday of the month) which has gained a dedicated following! That said it was a good bet that a wine shop would also be well received.

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Cellar wines is housed in a historical fifteenth-century building which during the second world war was purchased by a pharmacist Kenneth White. He is revered for being the first producer of penicillin for civilians and the shop now has a blue plaque to commemorate his contribution. So with a listed building and a mission for excellence this little shop opened quietly.

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When one of the founding partners left, the original investor took the helm and really unique elements started to unfold. Originally focused on French wines the shop now embraces the globe bringing in superb South African wines from the likes of rebel wine makers the Kloof Brothers, Galician artisan producer Benito Santos (I love the labelling on this wine) and award winning wines from Surrey itself. If you have ever stood in a supermarket staring at dismally at same old display of wines then this shop is for you. A bottle of ‘The flower and the bee’ costs only £12.80 here from an artisanal Spanish producer with vines growing on organic soil while in contrast, a bottle of High Clandon Cuvee Reserve Vintage will set you back £45.00. In fact, all the bottles of wine have an interesting story and I would be proud to take any of these to any wine and food event.

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If you like advice on what to buy then Manager Andy Walton and assistant David Hefford are on hand to help. What I love about the staff here is their brilliant customer service. There is no wine snobbery at play just a desire to share their knowledge of their truly eclectic and interesting selection of wines and spirits with their customers. Prices here start at the accessible for all and rise to aficionado status and this is for some a special occasion retail experience. Guided by knowledgeable staff, a great selection of tasting samples plus a fantastic range of expertly curated options, creates an exciting retail experience. Judging by the rave reviews of the shop it’s a shared opinion.

Local vineyards are featured and celebrated here too. It’s been a hugely important decade in England for winemakers and we have several award winning vineyards in Surrey. Greyfriars and the Albury Estate, for example, are within 10 miles of the shop as is Clandon. In addition to wines you will find local superstar craft gin Silent Pool and newcomer Mews too. Craft beers are also on offer such as Hop Art based in Farnham. A collaboration by native Belgian and Italian beer makers whose products are gaining a large following. Stylish labels and a catchy name help here too but it is delicious beer with four core styles.

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To support the wine here they also have a delightful cheese counter with a range of local and imported cheeses. To compliment a range of Cornish charcuterie including a fantastic smoked chorizo. Local cheeses include Surrey’s famous Norbury Blue and Dirty Vicar from Michaela Allum in Box Hill. A goats cheese cheddar and a delicious Italian cheese named 3 Latti (made from a combination of cows, goats and ewes milk) also feature. A supporting range of interesting cheese biscuits, Millers Damsels, Mondovino cheese crackers in packaging that oozes 60’s glitz and cocktail bar culture, choose from wild mushroom plus other equally tantalizing flavours. These compliment the cheeses on offer.

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But the icing on the cake here is the range of interesting accompaniments they stock to create the perfect cheeseboard. This I discovered when I attended a tasting of South African wines. Cellar wines calls itself a boutique and here’s why. It’s a shop, a bar, a lounge and an event venue it even has a small outside terrace at the back. Book a private party, supper club, buy a ticket for a wine tasting or design your own event. Anything is possible here and that’s surprising in what is a relatively small space. In a lock up down the road, they keep a range of chairs tables, linen-ware, wine glasses, crockery, in fact, anything you need really for a stunning evening of food and wine.

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Arriving at the wine tasting evening it was amazing to see how the shop had been transformed into an intimate venue. We were greeted on arrival with a glass of our first wine of the evening from the Waterford Estate (Sauvignon, Blanc) delicious and crisp is set the tone. Now I have to be honest here I was not sure what to expect as other wine tastings experienced have been boring, fusty and bit highbrow for me. Our tutor for the evening was a breath of fresh air. Easy to talk to and a walking encyclopedia of wine it was impossible not be in awe. She led us through the six wines of the evening embellishing each with interesting stories of the vineyards, their geographic locations and how this affected the resulting wine. It was an interesting political history too as for a long time South African products were restricted because of Apartheid.

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Now this was the best wine tasting I have been too because not only was our tutor a brilliant speaker but also because she wasn’t too prescriptive about how you drank your wine, more advisory. This meant you could drink at your own pace and we weren’t forced into naming fruit/nut/food notes and other associations that I have felt under duress to do with previous events. But one of the highlights of this wine tasting was the addition of cheese and charcuterie nibbles that were in perfect harmony with the wine. Whoever put this together knew what they were doing. For example Keens Cheddar on olive oil crackers with Piccalilli was served with my favourite wine of the evening Mullinex Kloof Street Red 2014 (£17.50). Stichelton Toast with Kileen Goat Gouda and Pickled Cherries were stunning with the Mullinex Straw Wine our final tasting and a dessert wine which made a perfect finish. The pickled cherries were fabulous and now on my list for Christmas day offerings. My absolute favourite though was Wyfe of Bath on water crackers with Acacia Honey & Truffle which was served with a Chenin Blanc.

I thoroughly recommend a visit to this enterprising wine Boutique. It is one of the most creative businesses I have been to recently. Why not take it one step further and attend one of their tasting events because it’s an education not only in wine but food pairing too! Be warned they are not open on Sundays or Mondays but they do have an online shop.

01483 610610

www.cellarwines.co.uk

 

 

Toby Cottage Restaurant

toby_cottage_exterior High Street, Ripley, GU23 6AF

 A charming, old-fashioned restaurant with a contemporary twist

 Go there for: Retro classics, heaps of fresh vegetables and flambé specials.

Avoid: Being influenced by the website, which suggests a more modern vibe.

Is it worth the calories?: You get a well-balanced plate here.

Tips: This is perfect for those who appreciate service and a dessert trolley.

Toby Cottage welcomes you to the food culture of the 1970s (the good bits), the era it opened. The sixteenth-century oak-beamed interior may be intact but subtle changes to the menu and a change of ownership have ensured its continued existence.

Classic flambé dishes Crêpes Suzette and Steak Diane are firm fixtures alongside a heaving dessert trolley.  Our amusing waiter Daniel (the flambé expert) was happy to tell us he’s been waiting tables here for 22 years – a rare loyalty that we saw as a jolly good sign. Choosing from the lunch menu (3 courses for £19.50 or 2 courses for £15.00), we kicked off with a tapas-style starter of chorizo cooked in red wine with olives. The chorizo was spicy and tender, suggesting authentic, quality ingredients. The plump olives added a satisfying richness to the piquant sauce. We used the fresh bread from our basket to mop it up. It was to good to see melba toast here too, another nod to a former culinary era.

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We shared the starter so were ready to wade into our substantial mains. My calves’ liver was cooked pink as requested; and although the gravy may have had a run in with the gravy browning it was robust and complemented the meat. The crunchy bacon added texture and saltiness to the dish. My daughter’s salmon was perfectly cooked: moist, fresh and flaky and enhanced by a knob of herb butter and a heap of fresh rocket. The meal was fully elevated when the fresh vegetables arrived. These had clearly been cooked to order, arriving vibrant in colour and steaming.

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We so enjoyed our lunch that we decided to share a light dessert from the trolley of pudding heaven. Our crème caramel had been cooked in a slightly hot oven but had the ‘we made it from scratch’ flavours of a proper pudding. It wasn’t too sweet and had just the right amount of eggy resistance on the tongue. We could have gone for any of the chocolaty creations, a summer jelly or a fresh-fruit salad – perhaps next time.

Here you feast on more that just food. For me it brought backs lots of memories of eating out with my parents. My dad, who hated the pretention of modern fine dining (which I love), would have felt at home, particularly as he liked having food cooked for him at the table. Few waiters are trained to do this now.

When Spaniards Tony Trias and Tony Trillo bought The Toby Cottage as a going concern they decided that change was unnecessary.  With an established clientele and brisk trade this seems to have paid off; six years later they are pleased with the addition to their portfolio. Their ethos is to buy top-quality ingredients – Smithfield for meat and a fish supplier who delivers daily. Their regulars love Dover sole, sea bass and lobster from the à la carte menu.toby cottage_9x6

They don’t like to experiment too much with food here and that seems to be their selling point. However you will find some more modern classics (scallops and pea purèe) alongside more traditional dishes. If you can get past the Toby jugs and dated décor, it’s worth giving this eatery a try. I’m glad I did.

www.tobycottage.co.uk

Tel: 01483 224225

Shirlee Posner
Text and images Shirlee

 

 

Hand made coffee at Pinnocks

Pinnock’s Coffee House

­­­Pinnock’s Coffee House, High St, Ripley, Surrey, GU23 6AF.Pinnocks shop front

A haven for lovingly made coffee, home-baked cakes and savoury dishes served with charisma and charm.

Go there for: Single estate freshly ground coffee, great food and good company.

Avoid: Going for a quick caffeine fix: take time to savour your drinks and food here.

Is it worth the calories?: This is thoughtfully prepared quality food, so definitely yes.

Tips: Be prepared to discuss your idea of a perfect coffee for a match from Russell’s carefully selected library of beans.

Imagine a café that is so passionate about coffee that they freshly grind 20g of single estate ethically sourced coffee for you after discussing what flavour characters you prefer. The coffee is deposited into a paper filter in a ceramic holder, then water at an optimum temperature is poured over the grains and stirred. The water drips into the waiting mug below, taking with it the oily flavour compounds that define the taste of your drink. Welcome to Pinnock’s Coffee House and the slow coffee movement.

Making coffee at Pinnocks

The carefully selected coffee and loose leaf tea menu

Russell James opened Pinnocks this year. He mans the drinks station on the bar and his exuberant personality and charm fill the room. He seems to know everyone and you immediately feel part of a community that he has, in a few short months, created. It’s not just coffee (supplied by the Grumpy Mule) that is important here: loose-leaf teas come from Tiger teas and the decadent hot chocolate is made from single-estate chocolate shavings from Marimba, based in Suffolk. Russell kindly gave me a sample for my son, a self-appointed chocolate expert, who loved it. You can buy the flakes and their handmade chocolate bars in the deli side of the shop, which is being established.

This is a family affair, with Russell’s mum Shirley in charge of cakes and his partner Andy the savoury menu. I had a mug of Rwanda Musasa coffee (£2.60), which was, as Russell promised, full bodied without any bitter notes but a hint of citrus and caramel. For lunch I chose a caramelised onion and goats cheese tart with salad. The tart was superb, with the ingredients described clearly present and complementary. The accompanying salads, green leaf, potato, tomato and coleslaw were fresh and substantial. The potato salad was plain but this hearty lunch was a steal at £4.50. The menu generally is very keenly priced: Russell wants his locals to become regulars. He serves a selection of wraps, salads and sandwiches at lunch and for breakfast pastries, granolas and bagels. High tea is also served here but instead of an over the top selection of tea-time treats  with a staggering price tag a lovely plate of sandwiches, a mini scone and pot of tea costs just £3.90.

Tart and salad, Plum cake and a mini scone from the high tea menu

Luckily I had spotted the cake counter before lunch so I wisely left space for a slice of plum cake (£2.50). No fluffy puffy sponge here: at Pinnocks you get proper cake. I am not a fan of butter icing so it was delightful to get a cake with a seam of plum jam. I declined the offer of cream: the sponge was moist and fruity enough without it but it would have been a gorgeous addition. Cakes change daily: that day they had lemon drizzle, white chocolate and orange sponge, chocolate and the odd mystery cake that customers have to identify!

I watched in awe as a customer ordered from Russell using sign language: in his former life he was a sign-language interpreter. Upstairs has a club like atmosphere, with comfy sofas and books you can swap – Russell’s house is now bereft of furniture. A garden outside provides extra seating.

Pinnocks is a wonderful addition to a foodie movement emerging in Ripley and it gets a highly recommended from me.

01483 222419

www.pinnockscoffeehouse.com

Text and images Shirlee
Text and Images Shirlee

Ripley Farm Shop

Ripley Farm Shop, Portsmouth Road, Ripley, Surrey, GU23 6EY

A farm shop with local and global foodie offerings.

Go there for: A good range of fresh produce, local honey, duck eggs, Send Farm free-range meat and an eclectic mix of ingredients and sauces.David Dadswell

Avoid: Thinking this is your average garden centre farm shop.

Is it worth the calories?: The free-range meat I bought made one of the best Bolognese sauces ever!

Tips: Don’t expect the same produce each time you go: they follow the seasons.

Ripley isn’t just famous for Steve Drakes wonderful cooking, it also has a great farm shop. A visit to this treasure trove isn’t a dull experience: it doesn’t conform to regular farm-shop protocol. The mainstay of their business is fresh produce but owner David Dadswell stocks his shop creatively.

A promiscuous buyer, David shops around for unusual products he thinks will inspire his customers. He drives to Croydon for Asian ingredients from Wing Yip and then pops next door to USA wholesaler Costco. So, in a back room you’ll find Hoi Sin sauce, Thai curry paste, Indian spice pastes, pink Himalayan salt and other Asian classics as well as a huge range of herbs and spices. There are store-cupboard classics like Heinz beans and soups and frozen products, including ice-cream and a good range of fish and seafood. However, I wasn’t expecting to see frozen soya beans (edamame)  – delicious steamed and tossed in olive oil and sea salt – what a treat.

Edamame, tomato mix and local honey

Produce is bought from local farms where possible; they buy most of their fruit and vegetables wholesale, as farms don’t like to sell direct to small shopkeepers. This also means they can pick up imports like bananas and pineapples. The day I visited there were baby plum tomatoes from the Isle of Wight too.

Sausages, duck eggs and quails eggs

Meat and meat products are pre-packed: you’ll find beef, pork and lamb from Send Hill farm and sausages from Bangers Galore. If you can’t wait to eat a sausage you can always nip across the car park to sample one from the Grill Stop. Free-range hens and ducks eggs come from Chapel farm, fresh bread from Cavan award-winning craft bakery, and cakes from the Fatherson bakery.

David told me the family have been in the horticultural trade for years and opened the farm shop to diversify. He might not admit it but he’s a bit of a secret foodie and thinks about ideas for the shop even when on holiday. In France he bought 3 tins of cassoulet he thought might sell  – but if they don’t he’ll have a lovely dinner sorted! As I was leaving David mentioned that he goes mushroom foraging in the autumn. Jane and I are really keen to come along – and David’s promised to call us.

Farm shop entrance

01483 225090

www.ripleynurseries.co.uk