Tag Archives: special occasion

Spiced Granola

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I always have a big glass jar of this granola in my kitchen. Made with honey,nuts seeds and oats it’s perfect for breakfast. At Christmas, I like to add cranberries instead of sultanas or apricots and mixed spice instead of cinnamon. But this is one of those recipes that provided you stick to the measurements for honey, oil and dry ingredients you can play around with the rest. Pecans, apricots, cherries and walnuts are just some of the ingredients I swap around. The white chocolate stars just add a bit more Christmas sparkle! Pack it up in bags for friends – I don’t know anyone who doesn’t love a bag of crunchy honey sweetened goodness.

 Ingredientsxams-granola-crop

600g rolled oats
50g raw pumpkin seeds
50g sunflower seeds
50g milled flaxseed
50g flaked almonds
1 x 15ml spoon ground mixed spice
240ml clear honey (or maple syrup)
210ml sunflower oil
50g dried cranberries
50g crimson raisins
50g mini white chocolate stars (optional)

Method

  1. Pre-heat the oven to 180c. Place the first 5 ingredients in a large mixing bowl and combine.
  2. Place the honey (omit this step if you are using maple syrup) and oil in a plastic jug and microwave for 20-30 seconds or until runny (do not allow to boil)
  3. Add the honey and oil to the dry ingredients and mix thoroughly.
  4. Line 2 baking sheets with non-stick paper and divide the granola between them.
  5. Bake for 25-30 minutes stirring occasionally or until the oats are golden brown.

 

Tips & tricks

  • Allow the granola to cool completely before storing for up to 6 weeks in an airtight jar
  • Use cinnamon instead of mixed spice
  • Stir the granola whilst its cooling otherwise it will set into a solid mass
  • Once it has cooled you can add dried fruit of your choice such as apricots, raisins, cranberries or sultanas
  • Never add the fruit before baking as it will harden and burn in the oven
  • Only add chocolate to the granola when it is completely cooled
  • Try using different nuts, spices and fruit

 

I buy a lot of my Christmas wrapping in Tiger (branch in the Friary Centre in Guildford and Peacock Shopping Centre in Woking)

Cellar Wines

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The Old Cellar, High Street, Ripley, Surrey, GU23 6BB

The upside: A truly inspiring wine and cheese shopping experience!

The downside: Only open 5 days per week, but until 8pm.

The flipside: Fantastic tailor made and off the shelf events!

When Cellar Wines opened in Ripley it was impossible to predict what an impact this unassuming new wine retailer could possibly have on our wine loving community. Ripley itself has emerged over the last few years as a bit of a culinary hotspot. Drakes a Michelin star restaurant is opposite, Pinnock’s an award winning coffee shop has been pivotal too, plus a fantastic farm shop at A. Luff & Sons at Ripley Nurseries on the outskirts of the village. In addition, local community leaders set up a monthly farmers market (second Saturday of the month) which has gained a dedicated following! That said it was a good bet that a wine shop would also be well received.

shop-and-manager-andy

Cellar wines is housed in a historical fifteenth-century building which during the second world war was purchased by a pharmacist Kenneth White. He is revered for being the first producer of penicillin for civilians and the shop now has a blue plaque to commemorate his contribution. So with a listed building and a mission for excellence this little shop opened quietly.

cellar-wines-blue-plaque-trio

When one of the founding partners left, the original investor took the helm and really unique elements started to unfold. Originally focused on French wines the shop now embraces the globe bringing in superb South African wines from the likes of rebel wine makers the Kloof Brothers, Galician artisan producer Benito Santos (I love the labelling on this wine) and award winning wines from Surrey itself. If you have ever stood in a supermarket staring at dismally at same old display of wines then this shop is for you. A bottle of ‘The flower and the bee’ costs only £12.80 here from an artisanal Spanish producer with vines growing on organic soil while in contrast, a bottle of High Clandon Cuvee Reserve Vintage will set you back £45.00. In fact, all the bottles of wine have an interesting story and I would be proud to take any of these to any wine and food event.

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If you like advice on what to buy then Manager Andy Walton and assistant David Hefford are on hand to help. What I love about the staff here is their brilliant customer service. There is no wine snobbery at play just a desire to share their knowledge of their truly eclectic and interesting selection of wines and spirits with their customers. Prices here start at the accessible for all and rise to aficionado status and this is for some a special occasion retail experience. Guided by knowledgeable staff, a great selection of tasting samples plus a fantastic range of expertly curated options, creates an exciting retail experience. Judging by the rave reviews of the shop it’s a shared opinion.

Local vineyards are featured and celebrated here too. It’s been a hugely important decade in England for winemakers and we have several award winning vineyards in Surrey. Greyfriars and the Albury Estate, for example, are within 10 miles of the shop as is Clandon. In addition to wines you will find local superstar craft gin Silent Pool and newcomer Mews too. Craft beers are also on offer such as Hop Art based in Farnham. A collaboration by native Belgian and Italian beer makers whose products are gaining a large following. Stylish labels and a catchy name help here too but it is delicious beer with four core styles.

hop-art-andmews

To support the wine here they also have a delightful cheese counter with a range of local and imported cheeses. To compliment a range of Cornish charcuterie including a fantastic smoked chorizo. Local cheeses include Surrey’s famous Norbury Blue and Dirty Vicar from Michaela Allum in Box Hill. A goats cheese cheddar and a delicious Italian cheese named 3 Latti (made from a combination of cows, goats and ewes milk) also feature. A supporting range of interesting cheese biscuits, Millers Damsels, Mondovino cheese crackers in packaging that oozes 60’s glitz and cocktail bar culture, choose from wild mushroom plus other equally tantalizing flavours. These compliment the cheeses on offer.

cellar-cheese-and-bisuits

But the icing on the cake here is the range of interesting accompaniments they stock to create the perfect cheeseboard. This I discovered when I attended a tasting of South African wines. Cellar wines calls itself a boutique and here’s why. It’s a shop, a bar, a lounge and an event venue it even has a small outside terrace at the back. Book a private party, supper club, buy a ticket for a wine tasting or design your own event. Anything is possible here and that’s surprising in what is a relatively small space. In a lock up down the road, they keep a range of chairs tables, linen-ware, wine glasses, crockery, in fact, anything you need really for a stunning evening of food and wine.

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Arriving at the wine tasting evening it was amazing to see how the shop had been transformed into an intimate venue. We were greeted on arrival with a glass of our first wine of the evening from the Waterford Estate (Sauvignon, Blanc) delicious and crisp is set the tone. Now I have to be honest here I was not sure what to expect as other wine tastings experienced have been boring, fusty and bit highbrow for me. Our tutor for the evening was a breath of fresh air. Easy to talk to and a walking encyclopedia of wine it was impossible not be in awe. She led us through the six wines of the evening embellishing each with interesting stories of the vineyards, their geographic locations and how this affected the resulting wine. It was an interesting political history too as for a long time South African products were restricted because of Apartheid.

cellar-wines-cellar-and-seating-areas

Now this was the best wine tasting I have been too because not only was our tutor a brilliant speaker but also because she wasn’t too prescriptive about how you drank your wine, more advisory. This meant you could drink at your own pace and we weren’t forced into naming fruit/nut/food notes and other associations that I have felt under duress to do with previous events. But one of the highlights of this wine tasting was the addition of cheese and charcuterie nibbles that were in perfect harmony with the wine. Whoever put this together knew what they were doing. For example Keens Cheddar on olive oil crackers with Piccalilli was served with my favourite wine of the evening Mullinex Kloof Street Red 2014 (£17.50). Stichelton Toast with Kileen Goat Gouda and Pickled Cherries were stunning with the Mullinex Straw Wine our final tasting and a dessert wine which made a perfect finish. The pickled cherries were fabulous and now on my list for Christmas day offerings. My absolute favourite though was Wyfe of Bath on water crackers with Acacia Honey & Truffle which was served with a Chenin Blanc.

I thoroughly recommend a visit to this enterprising wine Boutique. It is one of the most creative businesses I have been to recently. Why not take it one step further and attend one of their tasting events because it’s an education not only in wine but food pairing too! Be warned they are not open on Sundays or Mondays but they do have an online shop.

01483 610610

www.cellarwines.co.uk

 

 

Fresh Raspberry, Pistachio and Almond Tart

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This is a version of a recipe I use a lot with different fruit (such as figs, pears, blueberries) as it is so versatile. This works better with really fruity jam and its worth using an extra jam like Jam Packed with at at least 45% fruit content. Once you have the basic recipe sorted add flaked almonds or chopped pistachios on top. It’s really quick to make especially with ready -made pastry. Individual tarts work well here too just cut down the cooking time. Perfect for summer picnics and al fresco eating. If you want a more spongy texture simply add 50-75g more flour to the filling. I like a more paste like texture but for food on the go and picnics a little extra flour helps it stay together better.

Serves: 6-8pistachio-cream-M&S-Haselmere

Ingredients
Pastry
125g cold diced butter
250g plain or gluten free flour
40g caster sugar
I medium egg
or
1 pack ready made sweet short-crust pastry

Filling
100g butter, softened
100g Vanilla infused caster sugar
3 medium eggs
2-3 tablespoons raspberry jam
100g ground almonds
75g of finely ground pistachios or 1 small jar of pistachio paste*
50g self-raising flour (gluten free works well here)
200g fresh raspberries

Preheat the oven to 180/ Fan 170°C/ Gas mark 5 when the pastry has 10 mins left to chill.

1.If using ready-made pastry skip this step. Place butter and flour and sugar together in the bowl of a food processor or stand mixer. Process until you have a breadcrumb like consistency. Add the egg and few drop of cold water to form a dough. Do not overwork.

2. Now beat the butter and sugar together with an electric whisk or stand mixer for about 4 minutes until pale. Slowly beat in the eggs, almonds and flour until combined.

3.Remove the pastry case from the fridge and spread the base with the raspberry jam. Spoon in half the filling and scatter with half the raspberries. Add the rest of the filling and the remaining fruit and finish with almonds or pistachios.

4.Bake the tart on the baking sheet for 35 – 40 minutes, until golden brown.

Delicious served just warm with a dollop of Greek yogurt or cream. This will keep for 2 – 3 days stored in a cool place.

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*When Marks and Spencer opened their new shop in Haselmere a few months ago I was invited to take a look around. Their PR team gave me a selection of new products to try and Pistachio cream was one of them. It’s used to fill macaroons, choux buns, flavour ice-cream and other culinary delights. Here is works well in the frangipane tinting it with a lovely green hue while also imparting its distinctive flavour.

raspberry tart 6x9

Roll out the pastry thinly and line a 20 – 24cm flan tin. Cover with film and place in the fridge to rest for 30 minutes.

Platform 3 – The smallest pub in Britain

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Brightwater Brewery, Platform 3, The Parade, Claygate, Surrey, KT10 0PN

The upside: Lovingly crafted small batch beer available to drink in or take-away!

The downside: This pub is really small with short opening hours

The flipside: This really is the smallest pub in Britain selling a range of their own unique beers

If you turn into the parade towards Claygate Station in Surrey you’ll get a welcome surprise. As you venture forward independent retailers are on either side with traditional butchers, a fruit and veg shop, a top end traditional fishmongers, wine shop, deli, bakery and café. To top it all, right at the end next to the station is a tiny pub. Platform 3 has just enough standing room inside for two people, so when it is open guests rely on some outdoor tables with umbrellas to protect against the elements. This doesn’t stop the constant flow of customers coming to take a pint to drink straight away or take out for later. Everyone who comes in seems to know the owners and a strong sense of community is evident.

platform-3-sign-9x6

Alex started making beer with his dad when he was a teenager. Not, he says emphatically, with kits but from scratch with proper ingredients. He carried this on as a serious hobby during his IT career. When he was made redundant is 2012 he took six months off to recharge his batteries assuming he would just find another similar role to the one he had left. Economic turndown and age he suspected were not on his side. After six months he felt ready to attach himself to the world of work again and this time it was to start his own business. It seemed natural to him that a serious hobby that he had lots of expertise in and loved could become a full time job.

claygate-trio

First he set about equipping his brewery a huge research project but worth it to get it just right. This is housed in his garage at home with stainless steel professional equipment and is an official bonded warehouse. This is a government requirement for anybody who produces alcoholic drinks where duty is payable. Alex makes five beers on rotation from different recipes that produce golden, amber or dark ales. He lists availability on his website and these are available to drink in or take away. He reckons his beers are at their best at 3-4 weeks old and will only sell when they are in peak condition. To maintain this he brews batches to meet demand and as I discovered is a stickler for maintaining the drinking quality.

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Alex is the perfect landlord, chatty a beer aficionado plus he is extremely personable. In fact it would seem that this is the perfect career for him. He runs the business with his partner Sue (a business buff) so it’s a symbiotic combination of creativity and business acumen here too. The fact that all the beer he sells in the pub is his own brew is a real pull. Not just for the pints he serves but because he wouldn’t serve anyone a duff pint and he knows the stuff he sells from hops upwards. Whilst I was in the pub there was an endless stream of customers buying a pint to drink outside or to take away a firkin to share with friends later. Everyone is on first name terms and there is a sense of excitement that they are buying into something really unique.

Each of the beers on the menu currently in production have been through diligent recipe testing from the ambient temperature at which they are made to the type of hops and the ferment period. Beer, Alex confides is temperamental and there are many competing factors in getting each batch right such as your local water supply. No two batches will taste exactly the same because this is craft beer made by hand and each brew varies slightly with time of year and the affects of temperature, the raw ingredients and natural yeasts. This is part of the fun and like wine some brews are better than others but probably more so (I suspect) to an expert palate. Alex says that managing beer production is like bringing up a ‘petulant child’.

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Of the beers Alex makes, ‘Daisy Gold’ is the best seller (he named it after his dog who is apparently as ‘good as gold’). This light golden flavour packed beer is like others on his menu at around 4% volume. Alex specializes in what he calls session beer. It’s healthier and means you can enjoy a few pints in an evening and still walk home! This is particularly good for older drinkers and in line with current drinking advice from health professionals. In addition these beers are worthy of a more considered drinking session and deserve as such to be slowly imbibed.

Although golden ales are the most popular Alex also produces ‘Top Notch’ an amber ale which he makes with 2 different malts and dark-beer-claygateanother variety of hops. Citra is Brightwaters other golden ale, which gets its name from the hops used to make it. Known for its fresh lemony finish to beers ‘Citra’ has a zingier finish to ‘Daisy Gold’. This brewery also produces a rather unusual dark stout type beer called ‘Wild Orchid’. The use of black malt gives this its dark colour but by putting Madagascan Vanilla pods in each cask its also has a subtle hint of vanilla which doesn’t dominate but adds a lovely finish to the overall taste.

 

If you are a fan of craft beers I highly recommend a visit to Platform 3 it’s in a class of its own. With guest beers also on offer and other drinks for non-beer fans it’s a great afternoon out. Take-out, delivery for parties and ready bottled beer for gifts are also available. Go for the beer but also for the novelty value because this is the smallest pub in Britain!

Tel: 01372 462 334

Mob: 07802 316 389

Twitter @SmallestPubinUK

This review was originally published in Essence Magazine in February 2016

 

 

Tante Marie Restaurant

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For the well-heeled young in post war Britain who weren’t suited to academic life it was often a choice (for young ladies in particular) of learning secretarial or cooking skills. On the cooking front selection usually came down to two venues in England, the Cordon Bleu Cookery School in London or the Tante Marie Culinary Academy in Woking. Nowadays Leith’s and other great colleges have joined the party and there are a wealth of courses to choose from. Recently Tante Marie’s move to a new purpose built venue means they are topping the leader board again. The academy (the first of its kind in the UK) is famous for its professional chef courses, celebrity graduates as the incredible skill set that students leave the school with unlocks many doors into the foodie world. Being part of the local community is also high on the agenda for Tante Marie Management and with a new restaurant and plethora of short courses open to the public they are gaining loyal following. Want to do a season cooking in a ski chalet or luxury yacht then this could be your passport too.

tante-marie-interior-

Tante Marie has changed ownership three times since opening in 1954 under the tutelage of cookery writer Irish Syrett who died in 1964. Today former chef and deputy principal Andrew Maxwell and Gordon Ramsay Holdings own the academy. With a new lease of life and investment the school moved from an old red brick Victorian building to a new purpose built site in central Woking in 2015. In addition to the culinary academy there is also a modern European restaurant, staffed by graduates of the Cordon Bleu Diploma. Here they work for one year to gain a Level 5 Diploma in Culinary and Hospitality Management. I have dined here twice now and have been impressed by the delightful service, innovative and professionally dispatched menu. The attention to detail in the food and service is faultless as overseen by tutor manager Marco Di-Michele.

amuse bouche trio

The restaurant food is fresh, seasonal, locally sourced where possible, skilfully prepared and presented. To give staff the full range of food service skills, Amuse-bouche accompanies menu selections as does hand made bread (orange and thyme or caraway last visit). Appetising nibbles on offer include smoked mackerel pate on melba toast or shot glasses of leek and potato soup with truffle oil.

starters-trio

Starters on the seasonal menu may include scallops and black pudding (£10.50) or crab rarebit (£7.25). For mains we chose beef fillet anchovy butter served with creamy mash (£19.95) and pan-fried sea bass (£15.95). The fish was served on a bed of pearl barley risotto intensely green from the addition of baby spinach with contrast in taste and texture of spicy chorizo.

tante-marie-mains

Both dishes arrived swiftly from the kitchen on stylish hot plates and were cooked and seasoned faultlessly. Desserts (£6.50) included pear and frangipane tart with clotted cream (light and buttery) and a rhubarb fool with hand made biscuits. The food is so good here it’s hard to believe the staff are all new graduates.

desserts_tante_marie

 

Well run and managed; the space is modern, clean and comfortable. Wine is reasonably priced (starting at £20 per bottle) and offered by the glass too. It was good to see local gin Silent Pool on offer here and some English wines. We started with a glass of Prosecco each at £7 each.

Located centrally in Woking in a newly regenerated area Tante Marie and other newcomers have really started to put Woking on the map as a foodie destination. This is in part due to incentives from the council to make this a reality.

With so many gastro pubs churning out the same predictable menus its refreshing to to find a menu that really is a bit different!

Tante Marie Culinary Academy
57-61 Commercial Way, Woking GU21 6HN

01483 726957

www.tantemarie.co.uk

I was invited by Woking Shopping’s PR company to review this restaurant. Having already been once I was keen to return. The food and standard of service was as good as it was on my first visit. I am looking forward to doing one of their 1 day cookery courses on Indonesian food in late May.

Eton Mess with Blackberry Gin Cordial

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This has to be the easiest emergency dessert to make providing you have the right ingredients. It’s fast, effective and difficult not to love. Fruit infused gins are lovely for providing an alcoholic kick to an otherwise innocent classic. The *gin cordials from Silent Pool are perfect here.

 Eton Mess with Blackberry Gineton-mess-6x9

Makes 4 large or 6 medium dessert glasses

500 grams mixed berries, hulled and chopped

120ml of blackberry, damson or strawberry gin or *cordial

2 teaspoons vanilla sugar

250ml whipping cream

250ml double cream

3-4 small meringue nests (home or ready-made), lightly crushed

A few berries and fresh thyme to decorate

Put the berries into a mixing bowl. Pour over 120ml of flavoured gin and stir in the sugar. I used blackberry but damson or strawberry would also work well here. Leave the berries to macerate while you prepare the cream. Pour the whipping and double cream into mixing bowl and whisk until it visibly thickens. You want a soft whip here not solid so the meringue will easily fold in. Fold the crushed meringue into the cream. Lay out the glasses or a large serving dish. At this stage you can mix the fruit mixture into the cream but I layered mine. Its purely personal but I like the look of the layers. Start with a fruit layer followed by the meringue cream, spooning the gin in with each layer. Finish with meringue cream and decorate with a few berries and a sprig of thyme. Can be made a few hours or a day ahead. Refrigerate until required.

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This recipe first appeared in Essence Magazine in the December/January Issue and was also featured in Local Food Britain.

 

 

 

Silent Pool Gin

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Silent Pool; an astonishingly good gin from a true master of potions on the Albury Estate

I didn’t think I liked gin. But that was before I sampled some at a farm shop last May. I had heard of Silent Pool a new local distiller in Surrey so I put my previous prejudice aside to give this one a try. I was bowled over; its aromatic, full of flavour notes, lavender, juniper, coriander, chamomile, rose and so many more. It’s also drinkable straight, in sips. Meeting James their sales manager at Milford farmers market at Secretts convinced me that I had to find out more. As a born again gin drinker, I’ll tell you all I know.

When Ian McCulloch (a former commercial director at ITV) decided to start a distillery producing craft gin cory-james6x9in 2013 he can’t possibly have foreseen its success. With a commercial background he understood that branding and product were of equal importance and worked hard from the outset on both. For him his journey started out by searching for a great distiller, a path that took him to Herriot Watt University in Edinburgh. There they run the only MSc in Brewing and Distilling in the world, as you might expect from the home of Whiskey. The stars were clearly in his favour, as whilst he was there he was introduced to Cory Mason a graduate of the course who was undertaking some research. From their first meeting Cory and Ian decided to work together and enlisted a current student Tom Hutchings who for his dissertation then worked on gin botanicals (the flavour enhancers) helping to put together a blueprint for what is now an award winning gin. Most London dry gins (which Silent Pool is have 3-4 botanicals but this one has over 20) Remarkably this gin has achieved the sales in months that most new brands take years to reach.

Cory Mason must be one of the coolest guys I have met in a while, a native Californian he had been running art and music venues in New York. He is a person who stands out, in so many ways. Tall in stature with a trademark moustache, twisted at the ends and fixed with glue, perfect portrait material. Dabbling in restaurant ownership, cocktail mixology and bootleg distilling on the way. At this time there was no venue or distillery. So while Cory and Tom started to develop the gin (a complicated process if you want to be top of your game) Ian headed back to Surrey to find a venue.

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Hearing of a building available on the Albury Estate owned by the Duke of Northumberland, Ian a Surrey Hills resident took Cory and Tom to visit. They were all enchanted by the name Silent Pool, which locals know as a beauty spot for a walk in the summer months. When there is good rainfall and the pools are full they have a lovely blue hue. They really started to get excited when they were told there was an underground source of spring water fed from an artisanal spring supplied from deep in the chalk downs. Cory and Tom also found wild chamomile growing on the site which they immediately added to the recipe.

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In addition to the location the site also carries a legend. Apparently a woodcutter’s daughter was bathing in the pool when a nobleman on a horse spotted her. Concerned by his advances she moved further into the centre of the pool but he followed her on his horse and she drowned. When her father found her body he also recovered the horseman’s hat, which had dropped into the water. Embroidered onto it was the crest of Prince John. Ever since that time locals talked of eeriness around the ponds. This intoxicating story, the fabulous location and name sealed the deal ending in an easy decision to build the distillery at Silent Pool. Today the distillery at the back opens up onto a deck overlooking the pool where the team keep a BBQ to cook their lunch.

The distiller itself is remarkable too. Built in Holstein in southern Germany from copper it was bought to wood burning stovethe UK in parts and built on site. Cory says it’s not the Rolls Royce of distillers but the end results better as the process can be more flexible. Without getting too academic here Silent Pool gin combines infusion and vapour techniques for building its unique taste. Many gins use either technique but rarely both. The distiller is powered by a reclaimed and renovated 1970’s Barford Invicta Major wood burning stove which sits in the wood shed next to the distillery. Fuel (wood) comes from a sustainable source on the estate. Cory and Toms first job in the morning is to chop wood and fire up the stove. The wood, Cory says affects the temperature rise in the distiller and because it varies each batch of gin is slightly different. This he says is a hand made product in every way; there are no computers or digital timers just skill. Cory and Tom love their job they feel it gives them a chance to perform magic with a perfect mix of science, art and craft.

Silent Pool took a year to develop and by the time Cory and Tom had completed their 35th test run Ian decided it was time to stop experimenting and drinking and go to launch. They used an artist to come up with their bottle design which features the botanicals used and decided on the blue glass to represent the summer water at the pool.The bottle also comes with a blue glass stopper which is so much classier than a plastic screw top.

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The bottle is distinctive standing out from competitors, which is essential in a crowded marketplace. By default of its location Silent Pool has a fantastic brand story and name too. Exceeding sales by 1000% in its first year Silent Pool Gin is a core product sold internationally (even in China) but the creativity doesn’t stop here. Cory and Tom also produce Albury limited release which is made in small batches and gin cordials. The fruit cordials are only made when local fresh fruit like strawberries and blackberries are in season. Fruit is macerated in gin and the pulp discarded once the juice has been extracted. In addition they currently have a plum and apricot eau de vie a (clear fruit brandy) again small batch and seasonal. Because they have all their skills in-house and run their own distillers this company can diversify easily and respond to seasonality. This James Shelbourne says they do because as a small company they can. In the future they are also contemplating vodka and whisky but pointed out gin was better to start with as its ready to drink immediately whereas whiskey has to mature.

In addition to creating their own product range they recently worked with Raymond Blanc to create a gin to celebrate the 21st Anniversary of Eurostar. For a new brand to gain such notoriety in its first year is testimony to the tight professional team behind the creative force here and impressive. It’s clear with the founding partners skill mix and the ability of their team they are a company to watch. I can’t wait to see what they will produce next.

Their current product range is available directly from them in person at the distillery or online shop or from suppliers nationwide. Check the website for stockists. If you are interested in meeting the team and seeing gin being made which I highly recommend, why not buy a distillery tour (details on the Silent Pool website).

www.silentpooldistillers.com

This article first appeared in the December/January Issue of Essence Magazine 2015

As a footnote: I asked Cory what tonic he recommended as the rise in craft gins has also elicited a rise in tonic waters. He says that since Schweppes is most commonly available they did much of their testing with it. He does suggest that any good tonic will do but steer away from lite versions which are made with artificial sweeteners.

 

 

 

 

A Night of Food & Agony with Jay Rayner!

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Jazz & Comedy

If you have been following my blog for a while you know that I only write about things I really like. I sometimes get invited by PR companies to review restaurants and I am always totally honest with them. Yes, I am happy to go as your guest; but if I don’t think its worth a review it won’t get one. If I do go as a guest and write about it I always make it clear in my reviews too! I only publish positive reviews which means my site is less content rich than it could be plus it’s cost me a small fortune.  Sometimes I wish I was Jay Rayner as I believe passionately that if you open a business and invite people off the street to come in a pay for what you offer it had better be fantastic. And quite rightly the more you charge for it, the satisfaction level, should go up on a sliding scale. I have learnt to be disappointed and love the eureka times more because of it. I choose not to write negative reviews but Jay Rayner has made a career out of it. In fact is seems the more scathing and totally brutal they are the more they are revered.

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Last week I was contacted by the agents representing Jay Rayner who in addition to writing some of the funniest, observant and cutting restaurant reviews you’ll ever read is also a jazz musician! His latest tour combines his musings as a restaurant reviewer with a performance by him and his jazz band playing a food themed 60 minute set. The reviews of his band and the fact that he has just played his first gig and legendary Ronnie Scotts in Soho to great acclaim make this a guaranteed great night out. Would I be interested in writing a blog post to help promote his latest tour for a couple of tickets they said. I thought about it for a millisecond,  You see I am one of his biggest (actually at just a fraction over five foot one of his smallest) fans. I had missed his last event in Surrey at Farnham Malting’s last year to go to a pop up supper club (which was fantastic) so seeing him was on my bucket list.

Jay Rayner is my kind of writer, bold, brash and totally honest.  I wish I had the same wit, energy, humour and ferocity of language that he applies to every review he writes. I love the way he starts a review by setting a scene before getting down to the nitty gritty. His recent list of the 12 worst things that restaurants do were pretty close to mine too! Particularly his observation that the bill is always given to the man if you are out as a couple. I often buy my husband dinner after all he pays most of the bills and is currently carrying the burden of our daughter’s university adventure. When the waiter/waitress heads for my man I wish I had the courage to say;

 “don’t you ever, ever, ever again give the bill to the only person on the table who happens to possess testicles. You have no idea who’s paying for dinner. Put the bill in the middle of that table and walk away” 

This latest tour kicks off on the 23rd January in Wavendon and is in Surrey for one night at the Rose Theatre in Kingston on the 23rd February 2016.

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Smoky Gravad Lax

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My family have roots in Eastern Europe so I grew up with Gravad Lax, a cured salmon dish. It’s little lighter than smoked salmon and very easy to make. Because you are curing not cooking you must start off with very fresh fish. I usually fillet my own but get the fishmonger to do it for you if it’s easier. You could also buy a ready prepared fillet of salmon or salmon trout. Just run your finger down the fillet to feel if any bones are still intact, if so remove them (I have special fish tweezers but use you fingers if you don’t have any). It is essential for slicing that you retain the skin. This is a recipe that uses a ratio and it’s this; for each 450g of fish use 25g sugar and 25g salt. To give mine a luxuriously smoky finish I used some smoked salt I bought in France but Smoked Maldon sea salt will do just as well and this year for the very first time smoked sugar too. I saw a tweet about this lovely new product and contacted the producer who kindly sent me a tin to try. Made is small batches its described on the company website thus

“Handcrafted in Scotland by a kilted Highlander, Smoky Brae Smoked Sugar is lovingly cold smoked low and slow using a secret blend of hardwoods to achieve a unique rich full bodied SMOKY flavour to compliment cocktails, cooking and confection.  The demerara cane sugar produces sweet caramel flavours“.

Its the first time I have come across smoked sugar and I love it. Plus it’s a versatile product which would go wonderfully on a cocktail glass ( something with a chocolate liqueur or Cointreau would be gorgeous) or use it on crème brûlée or in savoury dishes like me.

Gravad Laxsalmon canapes
1 fillet of fresh salmon or salmon trout (skin intact)
25g of sugar and 25g salt mixed to each 450g of fish
I large bunch chopped dill (optional)

Pat the fish dry with some paper towel and then place cut side down in a large dish big enough to lay it flat. Sprinkle over half the curing mix and rub it gently into the skin. Flip the fish over and rub the cut side with the remaining cure. If you are using dill press it onto the fish. Cover the dish in cling film and leave to cure for 48 hours turning every 12 hours. During this time the salt and sugar will draw the water out of the fish. Its perfectly safe to eat without cooking as the salt kills off any bacteria and removing the water also makes it an impossible environment for them to survive. After 48 hours remove the fish from the cure and discard the liquid. Place the fish on a chopping board and cut into very thin slices as required. This will last for 3-4 days in the refrigerator but will also freeze really well too.

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I use Gravad Lax to make canapés for the festive season or when entertaining. If you want to keep the calories down use slices of fresh cucumber for a base and top with salmon and a garnish. I use seasoned crème fraiche, whole grain mustard, chives, thyme and fish roe amongst other things. I also love fresh flower seasoning from Uncle Roy’s Commestible Concoctions they look great plus they are dried so always in stock and ready to use.

If I serve the fish as a starter with some salad leaves I would use a whole grain mustard dressing and serve with some warm fresh brown bread.

Gravad Lax Dressing

2 tbsp wholegrain Dijon mustard
1 tbsp caster sugar or Smoky Brae smoked sugar
1 tbsp white wine vinegar
1 tbsp chopped fresh dill (optional)
Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Mix the ingredients together thoroughly and leave to stand allowing the sugar to dissolve in the liquids before using to garnish the salmon.

Please note whilst  I was sent this product by the producer to review I only write and publish reviews of products I really like! Quite honestly anything smoked gets a big thumbs up from me.

You can buy this product online and it should be in some delicatessens and farm shops in Surrey soon.

Blueberry and Cashew Bars

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avocado lime cheesecakeWhen the ‘Hemsley and Hemsley’ book was published we all fell in love with their avocado cheesecake and spiralised veg to replace noodles.  I bought their book based on the avocado and lime cheesecake recipe that appeared on their twitter feed one afternoon. Intensely green, it looked wonderful. My dinner guests agreed and I couldn’t help thinking about all the possible versions you could make using their recipe as a formula. Here is my first attempt, which although rather dark in colour owing to the use of dried blueberries, was astonishingly good. When I make this again I will experiment with fruit for a lighter hue.

Before you start you need a food processor to make this and an oblong loose-based tin measuring approximately 10 x 36cm (use a round one if necessary). You also need to soak the cashew nuts and blueberries overnight. This is a great dessert to make if you are entertaining vegetarian or vegan guests. Brilliant also when soft fruits are not in season.

For the baseblueberry cashew bars

125g nuts (not roasted), pecans and walnuts work well (or use a mixture)

45g desiccated coconut

85g raw cocoa nibs (optional)

185g dried fruit (I used a blend of cranberries, sultanas, cherries & goji berries)

3 tbsp melted coconut oil

 

The topping

225g raw cashew nuts

200g dried blueberries

125ml almond milk

1 tsp Manuka honey or Agave nectar to taste

4 tbsp melted coconut oil

Edible primrose petals or other flowers to garnish

The day before you want to make the bars put the cashew nuts and dried blueberries into a bowl and pour over the almond milk. Cover and leave overnight, mixing a couple of times.

First make the base. Place all the ingredients apart from the oil in the food processor. Process until finely chopped. Add the coconut oil then pulse and tip the mixture into the loose-based pan. Press down evenly with the back of a metal spoon until tightly packed and chill whilst you make the topping. Use the food processor again for the topping. Place all the ingredients into the bowl and blitz until the mixture is smooth. It may look like a lot and be quite gloopy but it will set. Pour the mixture onto the base and chill for at least 2-3 hours before serving. Cut into bars but not too thick this is quite rich!

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Variations

For the base: Use the recipe as a formula here. You need to keep the ratio of nuts to fruit with the coconut oil. Stick to the amounts by always using 125g nuts to 185g fruit.

For the topping: Keep the ingredients the same ratio but experiment with different fruit. Blend dried and fresh fruit but be careful not to make the mixture too sloppy. Cashews are the best nuts to use for this as they blend down to a creamy texture more easily than others.