Category Archives: Blog

Golden Berry Coconut Bars

This recipe is an adapted version of Paradise Bars (think healthy Bounty Bar) that appeared in the first Hemsley & Hemsley cook book. It must be one of the most copied recipes on the planet right now. The combination of dessicated coconut, coconut cream, coconut oil and honey when set creates a perfect texture and flavour for so many ingredients. Here golden berries add a wonderful acidic fruity kick – which just takes the whole taste experience up a notch. In addition they add a stack of vitamins too.My family, absolutely love these so I always make a large batch plus they are nutrient packed too. What could be better?

goldenberry trio

 Ingredients

2 x 200g bars of creamed coconut
10 tbsp melted coconut oil
4 tablespoons Manuka or other good honey (use more if you have a sweet tooth)
A couple of pinches of Maldon sea salt
300g desiccated coconut
100g golden berries, roughly chopped
400g (85% cocoa solids) dark chocolate, unwrap and break into small chunks

1x 24cm square tin lined with silicone paper

Method

Take the creamed coconut out of the cardboard packs and place them still in their plastic wrap in a bowl of really hot water. This will soften the coconut so it can mix easily with the other ingredients.

Remove the creamed coconut from the plastic wrapper and place in a large mixing bowl. Stir in the melted coconut oil, honey and salt. Add the desiccated coconut and golden berries and combine until evenly mixed to a dough like consistency (I use a stand mixer but you can do this by hand). Add a little water or coconut milk if the mixture seems a little too thick but not too much! . Don’t worry about it setting, the coconut oil and cream will reset when you chill the mixture.Place the dough into the lined tin. Press the mix down firmly and chill for around 30 minutes.

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While the base in chilling, melt the chocolate in a glass or metal bowl over a pan of warm water. Don’t allow the water to touch the bottom of the bowl and keep it at just under boiling point. You may have to remove from the heat a couple of times. When the chocolate has melted remove from the heat and allow to cool slightly. Take the coconut base from the fridge and lay it on a chopping board. Cut it into small bars (this is rich so I usually cut into 24). Dunk each bar into the chocolate to coat and tap on the side of the bowl to removed excess chocolate. Place the bars on a tray or rack on silicone paper. I decorated these with some chocolate-coated golden berries and some plain ones.

Allow the chocolate to completely set before handling. Store in an airtight tin or jar. I wrap mine individually in clear self-seal bags as they are a great snack to keep in your bag when you are out and about.

Download a printable version of the recipe golden berry & coconut bars.

I met Terra-Fertil who sell these berries in the UK on twitter and they kindly sent me some samples to try. Better known as physalis they decorated a lot of dessert plates in the 1990’s. The fruits themselves although they look dramatic taste better dried as it intensifies the flavour. Terra-fertil sell these berries plain or coated with raw chocolate and raw cacao powder; both delicious.

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Banana Scones

Makes 8 scones

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When you have a sad looking single banana in the fruit bowl this is the perfect rescue recipe. I have never served these to kids who didn’t like them or adults for that matter. Perfect with home-made fruit packed jam and a dollop of something creamy (I often use half fat creme fraiche or Greek yogurt).

Ingredients

50g softened butter, cut into small pieces
200g fine plain stoneground flour and a little extra for rolling out
1 teaspoon baking powder
50g golden caster or coconut sugar
25ml semi-skimmed milk
1 medium free-range egg, beaten
1 medium ripe banana, peeled and mashed

Method

Pre-heat the oven to 200ºC / 180ºC fan / gas mark 6. In a mixing bowl rub the butter into the flour, using your fingertips, until it resembles breadcrumbs. Stir in the sugar. Mix the milk and egg with the mashed banana. Pour the egg mixture into the mixing bowl and mix to form a dough (it will be quite soft – so handle with care). Roll the dough gently on a floured work surface and cut into 8. Place the scones on a greased or lined baking tray and bake for 10 minutes.

Delicious served with berry jam and cream

 

Tante Marie Restaurant

For the well-heeled young in post war Britain who weren’t suited to academic life it was often a choice (for young ladies in particular) of learning secretarial or cooking skills. On the cooking front selection usually came down to two venues in England, the Cordon Bleu Cookery School in London or the Tante Marie Culinary Academy in Woking. Nowadays Leith’s and other great colleges have joined the party and there are a wealth of courses to choose from. Recently Tante Marie’s move to a new purpose built venue means they are topping the leader board again. The academy (the first of its kind in the UK) is famous for its professional chef courses, celebrity graduates as the incredible skill set that students leave the school with unlocks many doors into the foodie world. Being part of the local community is also high on the agenda for Tante Marie Management and with a new restaurant and plethora of short courses open to the public they are gaining loyal following. Want to do a season cooking in a ski chalet or luxury yacht then this could be your passport too.

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Tante Marie has changed ownership three times since opening in 1954 under the tutelage of cookery writer Irish Syrett who died in 1964. Today former chef and deputy principal Andrew Maxwell and Gordon Ramsay Holdings own the academy. With a new lease of life and investment the school moved from an old red brick Victorian building to a new purpose built site in central Woking in 2015. In addition to the culinary academy there is also a modern European restaurant, staffed by graduates of the Cordon Bleu Diploma. Here they work for one year to gain a Level 5 Diploma in Culinary and Hospitality Management. I have dined here twice now and have been impressed by the delightful service, innovative and professionally dispatched menu. The attention to detail in the food and service is faultless as overseen by tutor manager Marco Di-Michele.

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The restaurant food is fresh, seasonal, locally sourced where possible, skilfully prepared and presented. To give staff the full range of food service skills, Amuse-bouche accompanies menu selections as does hand made bread (orange and thyme or caraway last visit). Appetising nibbles on offer include smoked mackerel pate on melba toast or shot glasses of leek and potato soup with truffle oil.

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Starters on the seasonal menu may include scallops and black pudding (£10.50) or crab rarebit (£7.25). For mains we chose beef fillet anchovy butter served with creamy mash (£19.95) and pan-fried sea bass (£15.95). The fish was served on a bed of pearl barley risotto intensely green from the addition of baby spinach with contrast in taste and texture of spicy chorizo.

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Both dishes arrived swiftly from the kitchen on stylish hot plates and were cooked and seasoned faultlessly. Desserts (£6.50) included pear and frangipane tart with clotted cream (light and buttery) and a rhubarb fool with hand made biscuits. The food is so good here it’s hard to believe the staff are all new graduates.

desserts_tante_marie

 

Well run and managed; the space is modern, clean and comfortable. Wine is reasonably priced (starting at £20 per bottle) and offered by the glass too. It was good to see local gin Silent Pool on offer here and some English wines. We started with a glass of Prosecco each at £7 each.

Located centrally in Woking in a newly regenerated area Tante Marie and other newcomers have really started to put Woking on the map as a foodie destination. This is in part due to incentives from the council to make this a reality.

With so many gastro pubs churning out the same predictable menus its refreshing to to find a menu that really is a bit different!

Tante Marie Culinary Academy
57-61 Commercial Way, Woking GU21 6HN

01483 726957

www.tantemarie.co.uk

I was invited by Woking Shopping’s PR company to review this restaurant. Having already been once I was keen to return. The food and standard of service was as good as it was on my first visit. I am looking forward to doing one of their 1 day cookery courses on Indonesian food in late May.

Bourne Valley Garden Centre Farm Shop & Restaurant

Woodham Park Road, Woodham, Addlestone, Surrey KT15 3TH

A delightful farm shop, restaurant and garden centre which although slightly off the beaten track is more than worthy of a detour!

The upside: You’ll find fresh produce, an English cheese counter, fresh bread, artisan products and a great range of gluten free ingredients and goodies. The restaurant has four chefs and makes virtually all they sell in house!

The downside: Limited range of fresh meat in the farm shop but what they do have is from a local butcher.

The flipside: Whilst the farm shop is small they pack in a range of carefully selected farm shop favourites and a few less obvious choices too. You can cook a meal from scratch after shopping here; always a bonus in my book.

When this business contacted me via the blog I had to confess I had not heard of them before. They weren’t surprised it’s a geographical issue for them as they are off the beaten track and not on a major route since the M25 was built. However they have a stronghold in the local community who love them. My visit was full of surprises starting in the modest but well thought out farm shop. It was lovely to meet owners Paul and Joanna Elding whose enthusiasm and hands on approach to their business shone through. Pauls family have had this business since 1952 but Joanna joined after marrying Paul leaving a career in advertising to do so. First Joanna took me around the farm shop (which was her project from the outset) and then we joined Paul for lunch in their restaurant.

joanna-and-paul-elding

The farm shop opened up just 8 years ago has a loyal customer base. Fresh produce, English cheeses, bread and cakes are all stocked here and provide the core of their offer. A chiller cabinet provides some charcuterie, dairy products and local milk. The cheese counter is dedicated to English Cheeses and they even offer small wedges at 65p each; which their customers love for sharing boards. To compliment the cheese there is a small range of cheese biscuits including favourite such as Peters Yard and Stockans.

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Fresh bread here comes from the Christmas bakery and the Gingerbread man in Walton-on-Thames. They also have some part-baked bread, which is baked off in the kitchen every day to sell in the farm shop too.

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A proportion of their offer here is from freezer specialists Field Fayre and COOK. I am a huge fan of Field Fayre and use their berries for winter jam making, desserts, smoothies and more. Helpfully Joanna and her team have prepared a really useful leaflet with cooking instructions for many of their products. For those who like a night off the pans COOK of course make a more thoughtful alternative to a supermarket ready meal.

Bourne-valley-cheese-counter

There are plenty of fresh cakes, biscuits and even some of their home made pies and tarts (treacle on my visit) from the kitchen too.

The restaurant is located in the garden centre and has evolved many times since it opened fifteen years ago and today is a large open plan space with 170 seats. Additions include a conservatory area overlooking the plant centre and a large till area with a stunning display of their home-made cakes. Paul ran the restaurant with his mum for the first five years of its life. Busy from the outset they have tried various set ups including a franchise. When that ceased to deliver  top quality food and service they took it back in house. Today they run a tight ship with four chefs who prepare all the food in house apart from bread and pastries. Keen to stay true to their opening ethos of preparing home made style food from local ingredients in pace with the seasons this became their best option going forward.

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Sticking to their local food agenda their fruit and vegetable wholesaler sends them a weekly list identifying where they point of origin is. This means they can choose produce from the South East whenever possible. Traditional tea comes from Tregothnan who blend tea grown on their plantation in Cornwall with imported leaves. Served loose-leaf in a filter pot strong tea drinkers like me can enjoy a proper brew. Herbal infusions come from Pukka teas and coffee from Chertsey based MIKA. For coffee Joanna and Paul have chosen a fair trade coffee Puro Fuerte which is a blend of beans from 5 growers in South American and Uganda, it produces a rich dark medium strength drink. Meat too is from local butcher who supplies the shop and restaurant.

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On the menu is a range of breakfast dishes (from £4.290 Panini, sandwiches (from £3.99) , salads and a changing specials board (from £6.49). Fresh soups, casseroles and quiche feature here too. I chose smoked haddock and leek risotto with a poached egg and rocket (£7.99). It was really tasty for a pre-cooked dish (but without the waiting time of 20-30 minutes). Joanna ordered a red pepper and pea frittata, which came with a generous portion of new potatoes and salad (£7.49). The cakes looked so fantastic that Joanna asked the manager to cut us a selection of them; having lunch with the owner came with added benefits here (not on offer generally). They are famous here for cheesecakes and butterscotch tart. But all the cakes here are made by in-house baker Zoe who was too shy to come and say hello but take it from me they are brilliant. All the morsels we samples were great but the butterscotch tart stood out. It must have been something to do with the crispy biscuit base with a caramel gooey topping; impossible not to like.

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This is a great restaurant, with keen pricing and an interesting menu. Lots of the classics are here but they also add more interest on their specials board. As it’s all made in house too it doesn’t have the predictability of other venues. To get to the restaurant you have to walk past the well-stocked gift area, stove shop and cook-shop. As we walked through Joanna told me that as well as being a third generation family business a lot of the employees families have been with them from the start too.

This venue is well worth a visit making sure you leave plenty of time for the garden centre and shop too. It’s perfect for a Surrey day out and supporting the local economy.

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www.bournevalleygardencentre.co.uk

 

01932 342 013

 

 

Mrs B’s Bees

I have been meaning to write about locally produced Surrey honey for a while. I will only buy mine from various beekeepers I meet on my rounds of farm shops and farmers markets. They all taste different and it’s fascinating to know that the source was wildflowers, chestnuts, heather or even oil seed rape. Luckily for me a recent visit to Milford Farmers Market gave me the inspiration I needed, thanks to Bee Keeper Debbie Burton. Her stall was stocked not only with honey but also associated products of beeswax candles, honeycomb and beeswax polish. As I was looking at the products I could hear Debbie talking to a customer so passionately about bees I was sucked in! A walking encyclopedia of bee knowledge this producer also has a fascinating story to share.

mixed honey

 

Debbie lived in Romania for a few years where her first husband was teaching young men how to become farriers. Years of fighting and fatalities during the Ceausescu regime left many communities without tradesmen to pass on their traditional skills to the next generation. Picking up the language easily Debbie and young son Tex were fascinated by their neighbours garden beehives particularly when the colonies started swarming. Beekeeping in Romania is practiced commonly and most gardens at that time Debbie recalls had at least one hive. Finding beekeeping really interesting Debbie and her son learnt as much as they could and when they returned to the UK in 2006 they started to keep their own. They gradually built their colonies and now have hives in Surrey, Hampshire and East Sussex. In fact Tex is one of the youngest stewards in the UK to judge Honey at events. Honey is categorized by where the nectar has been harvested and has many classes and categories. Crystalline, runny or set the resulting style is dependent on which plant the bees collected the nectar.

honey-trio

I noticed that Debbie has different types of honey for sale and asked how she could know if they were wildflower, heather or borage. It turns out that if you want different types of honey in your portfolio you take the bees on a gourmet vacation! Each season this enterprising beekeeper loads up 20 hives at a time onto a trailer and takes them to area of woodland where there is a concentration of blossom or flowers. In the New Forest for example there is an abundance of heather so when it’s the right time to collect nectar the bees are taken there for 3 months. Debbie has permits to leave her hives in certain locations at certain times of the year. This practice is called migratory beekeeping and is a practice a lot of smaller keepers are able to manage. Because bees will only travel as far as they have to collect nectar and pollen for the hive you can be sure that if a large source is close to the hives then your source is guaranteed. The colour and texture of the honey harvested will later confirm this. What it is difficult to do is claim for honey to be organic as bees are free flying agents and may not stick solely to one area of collection.

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There are three seasons each year for harvesting honey and you can collect a different style of honey each time. Borage honey is known for its light colour and runniness. Heather honey is darker, thicker and much harder to extract from the comb. Where borage can be extracted easily by centrifugal activity heather honey has to extracted by breaking the comb and then separating the wax from the honey. The wax can then be used for candles and polish.

Sustainability is also high on the agenda for Debbie’s honey. I had heard that sugar syrup is given to bee’s which she agreed does happen in commercial production. For those who produce honey naturally the key is to make sure you have a healthy, large colony of hard working bees. If the hive is working well the bees naturally produce excess honey, which can be harvested without harming the colonies survival. This honey will be of a superior quality, texture and flavour. Experienced beekeepers know how much honey to leave for the colony particularly over winter when activity in the hive is low. In commercial farming the majority of the honey is taken and the hives fed with sugar syrup. Evidence has shown that this is detrimental to bee health and leaves them more susceptible to disease.

Declining bee populations have been well documented over the last few years with the neonicotinoid pesticides identified as a possible cause in addition to disease. I asked Debbie her view as an experienced beekeeper who currently has many healthy honey producing hives. It’s this; farmers struggle to produce the yields required without the use of some pesticides from time to time or risk losing entire crops. With this in mind she feels its better to continue with neonicotinoids which are now better understood because the replacement may be far worse. Of course there are plenty of different views on this contentious matter and this is just one.

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If you like supporting local food producers buying local honey is a brilliant way to do this. Buying from a market trader like Debbie means you have direct contact with the producer and for me it’s just a brilliant way to go shopping. The money goes straight into her pocket and as she says making money out of honey production on small scale is really tough. Last year they had high yields but because we had such unusual weather this summer the yields are a third of what they were. The commercial honey sold in supermarkets is no match for as artisan produced product and its well worth the extra couple of pounds.

My jar of heather honey has pride of place on my shelf. Spread on some local artisan bread with local butter it couldn’t be more satisfying. If you are interesting in keeping bees Debbie says to work first with a local bee club or apiary. As a beekeeper be prepared for hard work, investing in some expensive kit plus you have to be patient and prepared for heavy lifting. But she also says it’s a wonderful job and immensely satisfying. Her enthusiasm and jars of gorgeous honey are proof enough for me.

You’ll find Debbie at all the Surrey farmers Markets which are listed on their website http://surreyfarmersmarkets.org

www.mrsbsbees.co.uk

This article first appeared in the November 2015 issue of Essence of Surrey Magazine

One Bowl Banana, Fig, Sour-Cherry & Pecan Loaf

A stand mixer is a great bit of kit to make this loaf as its tough enough to mix in the bananas and eggs without using any other equipment. I am a short cut cook wherever possible and this is a good one. If you don’t have a mixer you will need to mash the bananas, mix in the eggs and then add them to the dry ingredients. Using coconut sugar adds a caramel tone and the sour cherries a little tanginess. This loaf is robust fruity and get better after a couple of days in an airtight tin or wrapped in foil. Delicious with a spread of good butter too!

Ingredientsbanana_date_pecan_loaf6x9

225g self-raising flour (use gluten free if required)

100g butter(softened)

150g coconut sugar

Pinch Maldon sea salt

200g sour cherries and chopped figs

75g chopped pecans

2 large eggs

450g ripe bananas (3 -4)

Method

Pre-heat the oven to gas mark gas mark 4/ 180°C/fan 160°C. Line a 23x13cm loaf tin with silicone baking paper.

Put the flour in the mixing bowl with the butter and sugar and process until you have a breadcrumb like appearance. Add the fruit, nuts and mix to combine evenly. Now mix in the eggs and bananas. Just leave the mixer on long enough to mix evenly but don’t over process. Spoon the mix into the prepared tin and bake for 1hr 15mins. At this point test with a knife to see if the cake is cooked through if not place back in the oven for 10-15 minutes until it is. Cool in the tin and serve when cool.

This will last for 4-5 days if stored in an airtight container in a cool place.

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Eton Mess with Blackberry Gin Cordial

This has to be the easiest emergency dessert to make providing you have the right ingredients. It’s fast, effective and difficult not to love. Fruit infused gins are lovely for providing an alcoholic kick to an otherwise innocent classic. The *gin cordials from Silent Pool are perfect here.

 Eton Mess with Blackberry Gineton-mess-6x9

Makes 4 large or 6 medium dessert glasses

500 grams mixed berries, hulled and chopped

120ml of blackberry, damson or strawberry gin or *cordial

2 teaspoons vanilla sugar

250ml whipping cream

250ml double cream

3-4 small meringue nests (home or ready-made), lightly crushed

A few berries and fresh thyme to decorate

Put the berries into a mixing bowl. Pour over 120ml of flavoured gin and stir in the sugar. I used blackberry but damson or strawberry would also work well here. Leave the berries to macerate while you prepare the cream. Pour the whipping and double cream into mixing bowl and whisk until it visibly thickens. You want a soft whip here not solid so the meringue will easily fold in. Fold the crushed meringue into the cream. Lay out the glasses or a large serving dish. At this stage you can mix the fruit mixture into the cream but I layered mine. Its purely personal but I like the look of the layers. Start with a fruit layer followed by the meringue cream, spooning the gin in with each layer. Finish with meringue cream and decorate with a few berries and a sprig of thyme. Can be made a few hours or a day ahead. Refrigerate until required.

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This recipe first appeared in Essence Magazine in the December/January Issue and was also featured in Local Food Britain.

 

 

 

Silent Pool Gin

Silent Pool; an astonishingly good gin from a true master of potions on the Albury Estate

I didn’t think I liked gin. But that was before I sampled some at a farm shop last May. I had heard of Silent Pool a new local distiller in Surrey so I put my previous prejudice aside to give this one a try. I was bowled over; its aromatic, full of flavour notes, lavender, juniper, coriander, chamomile, rose and so many more. It’s also drinkable straight, in sips. Meeting James their sales manager at Milford farmers market at Secretts convinced me that I had to find out more. As a born again gin drinker, I’ll tell you all I know.

When Ian McCulloch (a former commercial director at ITV) decided to start a distillery producing craft gin cory-james6x9in 2013 he can’t possibly have foreseen its success. With a commercial background he understood that branding and product were of equal importance and worked hard from the outset on both. For him his journey started out by searching for a great distiller, a path that took him to Herriot Watt University in Edinburgh. There they run the only MSc in Brewing and Distilling in the world, as you might expect from the home of Whiskey. The stars were clearly in his favour, as whilst he was there he was introduced to Cory Mason a graduate of the course who was undertaking some research. From their first meeting Cory and Ian decided to work together and enlisted a current student Tom Hutchings who for his dissertation then worked on gin botanicals (the flavour enhancers) helping to put together a blueprint for what is now an award winning gin. Most London dry gins (which Silent Pool is have 3-4 botanicals but this one has over 20) Remarkably this gin has achieved the sales in months that most new brands take years to reach.

Cory Mason must be one of the coolest guys I have met in a while, a native Californian he had been running art and music venues in New York. He is a person who stands out, in so many ways. Tall in stature with a trademark moustache, twisted at the ends and fixed with glue, perfect portrait material. Dabbling in restaurant ownership, cocktail mixology and bootleg distilling on the way. At this time there was no venue or distillery. So while Cory and Tom started to develop the gin (a complicated process if you want to be top of your game) Ian headed back to Surrey to find a venue.

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Hearing of a building available on the Albury Estate owned by the Duke of Northumberland, Ian a Surrey Hills resident took Cory and Tom to visit. They were all enchanted by the name Silent Pool, which locals know as a beauty spot for a walk in the summer months. When there is good rainfall and the pools are full they have a lovely blue hue. They really started to get excited when they were told there was an underground source of spring water fed from an artisanal spring supplied from deep in the chalk downs. Cory and Tom also found wild chamomile growing on the site which they immediately added to the recipe.

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In addition to the location the site also carries a legend. Apparently a woodcutter’s daughter was bathing in the pool when a nobleman on a horse spotted her. Concerned by his advances she moved further into the centre of the pool but he followed her on his horse and she drowned. When her father found her body he also recovered the horseman’s hat, which had dropped into the water. Embroidered onto it was the crest of Prince John. Ever since that time locals talked of eeriness around the ponds. This intoxicating story, the fabulous location and name sealed the deal ending in an easy decision to build the distillery at Silent Pool. Today the distillery at the back opens up onto a deck overlooking the pool where the team keep a BBQ to cook their lunch.

The distiller itself is remarkable too. Built in Holstein in southern Germany from copper it was bought to wood burning stovethe UK in parts and built on site. Cory says it’s not the Rolls Royce of distillers but the end results better as the process can be more flexible. Without getting too academic here Silent Pool gin combines infusion and vapour techniques for building its unique taste. Many gins use either technique but rarely both. The distiller is powered by a reclaimed and renovated 1970’s Barford Invicta Major wood burning stove which sits in the wood shed next to the distillery. Fuel (wood) comes from a sustainable source on the estate. Cory and Toms first job in the morning is to chop wood and fire up the stove. The wood, Cory says affects the temperature rise in the distiller and because it varies each batch of gin is slightly different. This he says is a hand made product in every way; there are no computers or digital timers just skill. Cory and Tom love their job they feel it gives them a chance to perform magic with a perfect mix of science, art and craft.

Silent Pool took a year to develop and by the time Cory and Tom had completed their 35th test run Ian decided it was time to stop experimenting and drinking and go to launch. They used an artist to come up with their bottle design which features the botanicals used and decided on the blue glass to represent the summer water at the pool.The bottle also comes with a blue glass stopper which is so much classier than a plastic screw top.

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The bottle is distinctive standing out from competitors, which is essential in a crowded marketplace. By default of its location Silent Pool has a fantastic brand story and name too. Exceeding sales by 1000% in its first year Silent Pool Gin is a core product sold internationally (even in China) but the creativity doesn’t stop here. Cory and Tom also produce Albury limited release which is made in small batches and gin cordials. The fruit cordials are only made when local fresh fruit like strawberries and blackberries are in season. Fruit is macerated in gin and the pulp discarded once the juice has been extracted. In addition they currently have a plum and apricot eau de vie a (clear fruit brandy) again small batch and seasonal. Because they have all their skills in-house and run their own distillers this company can diversify easily and respond to seasonality. This James Shelbourne says they do because as a small company they can. In the future they are also contemplating vodka and whisky but pointed out gin was better to start with as its ready to drink immediately whereas whiskey has to mature.

In addition to creating their own product range they recently worked with Raymond Blanc to create a gin to celebrate the 21st Anniversary of Eurostar. For a new brand to gain such notoriety in its first year is testimony to the tight professional team behind the creative force here and impressive. It’s clear with the founding partners skill mix and the ability of their team they are a company to watch. I can’t wait to see what they will produce next.

Their current product range is available directly from them in person at the distillery or online shop or from suppliers nationwide. Check the website for stockists. If you are interested in meeting the team and seeing gin being made which I highly recommend, why not buy a distillery tour (details on the Silent Pool website).

www.silentpooldistillers.com

This article first appeared in the December/January Issue of Essence Magazine 2015

As a footnote: I asked Cory what tonic he recommended as the rise in craft gins has also elicited a rise in tonic waters. He says that since Schweppes is most commonly available they did much of their testing with it. He does suggest that any good tonic will do but steer away from lite versions which are made with artificial sweeteners.

 

 

 

 

Norbury Blue

Norbury Blue and Dirty Vicar Cheese.

Surrey only has one artisan cheese-maker but their delicious cheese is revered throughout the county. Highly regarded by farm shops, delis and featured on local menus its a product to be proud of.

Michaela Allam started making cheese from her dad’s milk in 2001. Travelling around farmers market to sell her cheese she met Neil a michaelaNorburyBluewatercress grower and love bloomed over their love of local food. Neil decided that watercress was a lesser love so he married Michaela and her cheese-making prowess and moved to Surrey. Now they work together blissfully making batches of their delicious cheese. Norbury blue is a soft blue cheese with a big attitude. Made with unpasteurised milk from Michaela’s father’s closed herd of Friesian cattle this is artisan food production as it should be. I went to see them in production but sadly had to share the cheese shed with a film crew who were making an educational movie so Neil showed me the ropes while Michaela was transplanted onto the big screen.

First off Neil explained that their milk is a huge element of the provenance of their final product. The cows are grazed on the farms meadows and milked twice a day. They mix the morning and evening milking as the first milking is the most nutritious (this also changes in quality during the seasons, summer milk being of a higher quality than winter milk). The essential element here is a high percentage of buttermilk; it’s the richness of this that adds a creamy mouth-feel to the ripened cheese. Cleaning up on arrival, hairnets and plastic overshoes in place we went into the red brick dairy. In the centre, a huge cooling and heating tank holding 900 litres of milk. Deposited after the milking last night, chilled and allowed to settle. You can see a layer of buttermilk glistening on the surface. In preparation the milk has now been heated to around 30° the prime temperature for the addition of a bacterial culture.

Norbury_farm

Different cheeses have different bacteria added depending on what flavour and texture you want to achieve. Bacteria that like protein are used in soft cheese making (I studied this at university luckily) which ensure a creamy soft finish. The bacteria used here is also responsible for the blue mould growth that adds the distinctive flavour. After Neil had stirred in the culture the milk is left for just under an hour to allow the bacteria to do its magic here.

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Hearing a commotion outside, Neil took me to see the cows being brought down for milking. These are lucky cows living in prime meadows and allowed free range. Norbury Farm is near Box Hill hidden away from the road and hard to find too. I arrived driving down a public footpath which Neil assured me was the only access road to the farm. Nestled at the bottom of the hill the red brick nineteenth century farmhouse and outbuildings create an idyllic environment from the weather vein on top to the lush green fields.

It was time to go back to the milk as at this stage, regular stirring has to take place which Neil has alerts set up on his mobile phone (how did we ever manage without them). Every ten minutes the milk is stirred with a charming pink spade and finally its time to add the vegetarian rennet. Rennet makes the curd and whey separate, as it’s the milk solids that make cheese. Milk has a high water content, which is why you need so much of it. Neil starts to pull a huge circular cheese wire through the solidifying milk. This helps release the whey which is collected into a drainage system and recycled to enrich the soil for winter feed production. The curds are obvious now and Neil used a large plastic jug to pour the sloppy mixture into the waiting moulds. The curds are left overnight then removed from the moulds and rubbed with salt. After salting the cheeses are taken to a holding room, warm and humid to encourage mould growth and then to a maturing room. The cheeses are ripened for 6-8 weeks, hand turned every couple of days after which they are dispatched for sale.

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About four years ago Neil and Michaela added a new cheese to their portfolio. This took investment and planning for a new ripening room as its made with a different culture to Norbury Blue. They were struggling to find a name for their soft white cheese with a crumbly creamy texture and Camembert style rind. An incident in the local pub one night came to their rescue as a local vicar was leaving and a fellow drinker muttered under her breath “dirty vicar” a reference to the fact that he had remarried swiftly after the death of his first wife. They had been searching for a whimsical name after seeing the success of Stinking Bishop (a real cheese featured in a Wallace and Gromit movie) and this they decided immediately was it. It’s a lovely cheese with a charming story and great conversation piece for your cheeseboard.More recently Neil and Michaela have added a third cheese to their portfolio, Tipsy Vicar. This is Dirty Vicar that has been marinated in beer to give it a alcoholic glow and richer flavour profile. Its not available all the time but a lovely seasonal addition to their range.

You can buy Norbury Blue and Dirty Vicar cheese from many farm shops and delicatessens in Surrey and farther afield a full list of stockists can be found on their website.

www.norburyblue.co.uk

 

Smoky Roasted Red Pepper and Butterbean Dip

Vegan and full of smoky punchy flavours this dip is wonderful served alongside  Farretti bakery breadsticks with pre-dinner drinks .
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I used freshly roasted peppers that I skinned and deseeded but a tin of smoked Piquillo peppers (well drained) would work well in their place.

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Download a print friendly pdf of the recipe smoky red pepper and butterbean dip

1 large or two small red peppers roasted, cooled and skin removed (or 1 tin of red peppers)

1 large clove of smoked garlic, crushed

1 x 400g can butterbeans, drained

1 teaspoon of hot smoked paprika

2 tablespoons of cold pressed rape seed oil

Smoked Maldon sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 pack of Farretti artisan bread sticks heated in a hot oven for 5 minutes

Place all the ingredients in a blender or food processor starting with the oil. Process until smooth.

Decorate with olives or fresh herbs and serve with warm bread sticks.

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