Category Archives: Local products

Etherley Farm

Blog, Butchers, Farm, Farm Shop, Farmers Market, Food producers, local food shop, Local producer, Local products, Products, , , , , , , , , , ,

Etherley Farm, Leith Hill Lane, Ockley, Surrey, RH5 5PA

The upside: Ethically reared poultry and meat from a well run rural business with provenance.

The downside: Don’t expect a picturesque arrival this is a working farm.

The flipside: You can buy direct from the farm shop or from any of the markets they attend and several independent food retailers.

Driving to Etherley Farm near Dorking in the Surrey Hills is an adventure through some of the most beautiful countryside this county has to offer. As you arrive on the farm you can see open fields that are home to chicken, ducks, geese, turkey and sheep. There is nothing fancy here just a good old-fashioned farm slowly raising their stock in a healthy, natural environment. Sheep are a newer addition here and are the only animals not slaughtered on site for the butchery. Lamb, hogget and mutton are all available in season and much loved by their growing band of customers who love the quality and provenance of the products here. The fact that you can see the animals outside and how healthy they are is a big plus too.

I discovered Etherley farm through my friends over at Village Greens Farm Shop in Ockley. Just around the corner from their Coles Lane shop they directed me to Charlie (who heads up the team here) who not only sells direct to the public from the small butchery and produce shop, but also via a few retail outlets and farmers market (such as Ockley Farmer Market) in the county too. In addition they also supply some of the top restaurants in Surrey . At the time of writing Etherley Farm duck is on the menu at Michelin Star Chef, Steve Drakes new venture, Sorrel in Dorking.

Etherley Farm started life as a dairy farm in 1958 and continued to produce milk up until 2001. By that time membership of the EU and a common market policy saw a decline in the price paid for milk. In the years leading up to this, Richard (Charlie’s Husband) had already started producing poultry to supplement the farms dwindling income. Like many farmers they decided to pull out of milk production when the cost of producing it became higher than the price paid. Sadly they sold their dairy herd and started to get serious about rearing birds instead. It was around this time that Charlie and Richard got married and while he looks after the livestock Charlie runs the shop and does the markets. On the farm year round you will find chickens, ducks, geese and sheep. They have laying birds for eggs and birds destined for the table. In July 1,000 young turkeys arrive to live outside on the farm in a massive field to slowly mature for Thanksgiving and Christmas.

My first visit to Etherley Farm was around five years ago. At that time the farm shop was a shed with a couple of freezers in it. Not very appealing but because I had already sampled their chicken from Village Greens I knew it was really great quality with depth of flavour and texture. Thanks to a grant from Rural Surrey Leader they have been able to convert a derelict farm building into a new toilet and shower block for their campsite and add a new farm shop and on site butchery. This has allowed the farm to grow its core business and expand their range of products offered to the public. In addition to whole and jointed birds they offer a lovely range of prepared products such duck sausages, chicken , duck and turkey burgers. The duck sausages are apparently delicious with mash and sweet and sour red cabbage.

Their ethos is one of simplicity, with low intensity, low stocking rates and the minimal amount of additives to ensure healthy stock. Ducks (including laying ducks), turkeys and geese arrive as day old chicks and spend the first few weeks in their brooder and airy barns to develop and be strong enough to go outside. Both types of our chickens (laying and eating) arrive when they are a bit older. However, all the animals have the opportunity to roam around the fields. The turkey, geese and ducks here are really top end and its no wonder that they supply many local award winning butchers and restaurants too.

The newest addition to the farm, are sheep, a flock of 61 North of England Mules and two rams. Grass fed, they are outside all year round, apart from a short period during the lambing season when they need to be indoors for monitoring and extra food. Their aim is to finish the lambs on grass only which is always perceived to be the optimum process, however sometimes they may feed them for a short period of time to ensure a quality finish to the resulting meat. Some of the animals are kept beyond one year to produce hogget and mutton, which has seen a revival in the last few years. Cooked a little slower the meat is delicious and full flavoured.

All slaughter of poultry is done on the farm, which means the animals only have a short distance to travel, reducing the stress on the bird. All the butchery, plucking, preparation, making of sausages and burgers and packaging is also carried out onsite. Sheep however are taken to a local abattoir and then returned, to be butchered. One of the quality aspects of their turkeys, Charlie explained is that they dry pluck the birds which takes longer but extends the shelf life allowing the birds to be hung (like beef) for the flavour and texture to develop. Battery turkeys will be wet plucked (quicker) reducing shelf life and increasing water content making the meat dryer once its cooked.

Turkey’s Charlie says, make great pets, as they are very sweet and inquisitive birds. I asked her if she got attached to them and she laughed and said they have a built in death wish! Apparently they will eat anything that they see which could be bit of plastic, string or fabric, which often get blown onto the farm. The team have to diligently remove all items on a daily basis or run the risk of a fatality as they have an inability to deal with anything getting caught in their throats. So when it comes to doing the deed and getting them ready for Christmas Orders it’s a sigh of relief all round.

In addition to Village Greens you can also buy Etherley Farm birds from several award winning butchers in Surrey too, the list is on the website (details below).They also attend Ockley Farmers Market which started in March 2107 and is on the first Sunday of each month.

Why not support your local independent producer this Christmas by buying the main attraction of your celebration dinner directly from them. It’s a decision that has winners at both ends of the transaction.

Tel. 01306 621500

enquiries@etherleyfarm.co.uk

www.etherleyfarm.co.uk

Hunts Hill Farm and Farm Shop

Blog, Butchers, Catering company, Farm, Farm Shop, local food shop, Local producer, Local products, Products, , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

Normandy Common Lane, Normandy, Guildford, GU3 2AP

The upside: Hand reared free-range meat on a Surrey Farm

The downside: Larger joints of meat must be ordered in advance

The flipside: You can buy direct from the farm shop if you miss a market

There is nothing quite as British or evocative as the aroma of freshly roasted pork or grilled sausages on the street. I moved to Guildford in 2005 after living abroad for ten years and had little time to do any research over getting my kids into school. One Tuesday shortly after arriving I was walking to the high street past the George Abbot Memorial and little by little the aroma of roasted pork and a BBQ intensified, this was my introduction to Guildford’s monthly Farmers Market. On arrival it was apparent that Hunts Hill Farm were responsible for the wonderful aroma.

In addition to selling rolls with freshly roasted pork and their award winning sausages they also sell prepared cuts of their home reared meat. I have been buying their poultry, goat, lamb, veal and sausages at markets they sell at ever since (full list on their website) The bulk of their business is at these markets and they are regulars at eight, BBQ’s however are only at some of these.

We are blessed in Surrey to have a few really good local meat producers with smallholdings who sell directly to the public via small shops or farmers markets and this is one. Based in Normandy, Hunts Hill Farm is owned by Georgina and John Emerson. Not as you would think from a family of farmers but an ex Interior Designer and Garage owner. Theirs is a story which could have been modeled on the seventies TV series the ‘Good Life’ and I imagine from meeting them with as much fun and comedy on the way.

Having decided to make a huge lifestyle change and a move to the country they bought a farm that had run into trouble and needed an injection of energy to get it back on its feet. First off John did an agricultural course at Merrist Wood to get himself on the right track. Georgina made their temporary mobile home comfortable while they planned their new farmhouse on the site. The small farm shop was built on site and this also houses the butchery and sausage production unit. Slowly they built up their livestock. In addition to saddleback pigs, goats and Aberdeen Angus and poultry they also have laying hens, geese and ducks. All free range and with lots of space, this is the home of happy animals.

Like many smallholders the best way to make a living is by selling via popular farmers markets. Georgina and John love meeting their customers and have built up a strong following. They take their meat to market, ready cut and vacuum packed with a good shelf life. Sadly the meat doesn’t look so great packed this way but its quality in eating that’s the real moniker here. I have never had a duff joint or sausage from Hunts Hill in fact the leg of goat I had from them was a dinner party centerpiece. It was only recently that I realized that Hunts Hill also had a small farm shop and bed and breakfast on site too.

I made a much overdue visit to the farm in late April. On a private road it’s signposted from the junction but caution here as the shop is only open from Wednesday – Saturday. At the end of the road you arrive at the farm and its arrival reminded me of the description in the ‘Darling Buds of May’. Rustic and ramshackle, but in a friendly welcoming way and like all the places I visit with its own distinct personality. The farm shop is small but with enough ingredients for shoppers to put a meal together. The butcher’s display is the main attraction here of course and meat is sold fresh and frozen. Choose from small joints ready to go or order larger joints in advance to avoid disappointment. The meat is all reared on the farm (apart from the rose veal which comes from a farm in Horsell Common) and the animals travel a short distance to an abattoir in Farnborough before returning to the farm where butcher Peter expertly prepares the meat for sale.

To compliment the meat, a small range of vegetables, sauces, chutney’s and of course freshly laid geese, duck and hens eggs are on offer here too. The ducks eggs looked so inviting, large, white and so freshly laid I bought half a dozen (see recipe). They came with a large white feather too! Strawberries in the shop were from Tuesley farm who grow berries on their 459 acre site in Godalming. They are famed for their fruit and Georgina ripped open a pack of strawberries to sample. New season they smell and taste sensational and its good to note that they also stock Meadow Cottage Farm raw untreated cream (an absolute delight) and ice cream too. Perfect with strawberries.

Their free-range pork is also the star of their award winning sausages. They currently have over thirty recipes in their repertoire, which they make on a rolling basis. Expect at least eight of these on offer at any one time. Mary  (pictured above) in in charge of sausage production and has been working with the Emerson’s for seventeen years. She told me that some of their prize winners include pork, apple and maple syrup, apple and black pudding, beef and guiness and beef chilli and chocolate. I decided on a pack of hot Spanish with smoked paprika. I enjoyed these with my family that evening. They were succulent, spicy and soft textured, perfect.

Georgina kindly took me into their farmhouse, which is also home to the two rooms they let out for their bed and breakfast business. Here is a glimmer into the previous world of interior design that the lady of the house inhabited. Rich colours, large comfortable sofas it’s a really fabulous space. The bedrooms for guests are off the main reception area and have their own private bathroom. Comfortable and well furnished they also look over the back garden with rolling hills in the backdrop.

 

As I was leaving we went to see the pigs who were in a field next to the house. There were two pregnant sows and a very satisfied looking boar. Taking my leave a farm helper handed Georgina a goose egg that had just been laid. I got a chance to hold this warm perfectly formed giant egg, it was a touching moment for a city girl like me.

This is a classic example of a small producer bringing high quality produce to the market and selling directly to the public. If you like me are interested in the provenance of the food you eat it doesn’t get much better than this.

www.huntshillfarm.com

I bought half a dozen ducks eggs on my visit. Find out what I did with them here.

 

 

Gooseberry, Rhubarb and Elderflower jam

Blog, Local products, Recipes, , , , , , , , , ,

I love making small batches of preserves when I have ripe fruit in the garden. Jam making this way is easy, stress free, and an incredibly satisfying hour of creativity. My gooseberry bushes were re-sited this year and I thought the trauma would kill the yield. In fact they actually they blossomed in their new home and a bumper crop is ready to pick. Right next to the gooseberries the rhubarb was also ready to cut so I decided to combine three early summer flavours in my first jam of the new season. Here it is; it’s heady with the aroma of elderflowers, tart from the gooseberries and with a pink glow from the rhubarb. I saved a handful of gooseberries and rhubarb to chuck into the last five minutes of cooking to add a little chunkiness but if you prefer a smoother finish put all the fruit in at the same time.

I give amounts here and use the classic ratio of the same weight in sugar as the fruit. That means there is no pressure on how much you make and it always works. I use jam sugar that has pectin added but actually gooseberries have their own but as I was adding other fruit it helps. If you want a lower sugar jam, use 50g sugar to every 100g fruit. It will be a little runnier and you must keep it in the fridge and use it up in three weeks.

Download a printable pdf of the recipe Gooseberry, Rhubarb and Elderflower jam .

Before you start cooking just heat the oven to 100°C. Take an oven proof dish and put around 2 cm of water in the bottom. Place your jam jars in the tray and leave in the oven to sterilise while you make the jam. Lids can be placed in a mixing bowl and covered with boiling water from the kettle.

250g gooseberries, topped and tailed (you can do this with scissors)
150g rhubarb, cut into 1 cm chunks
200ml clear apple juice or water
3-4 heads of elderflowers (or add a few spoons of elderflower cordial)
400g jam sugar
4 tablespoons elderflower cordial

Place the fruit and juice in a medium size heavy based saucepan. Lay the elderflowers on top and allow to infuse, while you bring the mixture to the boil. As soon as it boils turn off the heat and leave for 10 minutes. Remove and discard the elderflowers and add the sugar to the pan. Bring to the boil for 10-15 minutes or until the mixture has thickened and looks syrupy then stir in the elderflower cordial. If you have a jam thermometer handy you are looking for 105°C. I never use one and don’t regret it! Allow the jam to cool for 10 minutes before pouring the jam into the jars.Leave the jam to cool covered with some kitchen paper. Cover the jam with waxed paper circles and cover with sterilised dry lids.

This recipe was first published in Essence of Surrey Magazine.

The Plough Inn, Brewery and Village Shop

Articles, Blog, Cafes, Grocery shop, Local producer, Local products, Restaurants, , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

The Plough Inn, Brewery and Village Shop, Coldharbour, Surrey RH5 6HD

The upside: A historic pub bought back to life in a thriving community

The downside: Purely selfish; but its a hike from where I live

The flipside: A perfect feel good destination in the heart of Surrey

A 17th century Inn with its own brewery, a local food menu and a carefully stocked village shop, may sound too good to be true. But read on and be prepared to put this venue on your ‘to go to’ list.

The Plough Inn is located in Coldharbour, a small village with 250 residents; it has one bus a day, which leaves at 10am and the nearest shop is 5 miles away. Dating back to the 1700’s The Plough Inn had by 2015 had lost its shine and most of its reputation and was in dire need of some tender loving care. Put up for sale the pub was bought by local entrepreneur Richard Eshelby who used the pub regularly during the shooting season and didn’t want to see it close. Forming a company to manage his new asset he bought in John (an IT consultant and his wife Becky to run the business) a great plan as they are also shareholders and have a vested interest in making this business a success.

The new team started in mid September 2015 and traded whilst they formed a refurbishment plan. As part of that, they had, a vision to re-instate the village shop and keep the onsite Leith Hill Brewery open too. Today the inn has had a complete refit with six attractively furnished rooms, a new kitchen and landscaped garden and addition of a village shop. Its heart warming to see how much detail and attention has gone into the reinvention of this business, which today is central to village life.

This is a story of three parts; the Inn, Leith Hill Brewery and the village shop. Intertwined of course but each lending additional purpose.

The Inn was already on the radar of CAMRA who say this is the only pub in the South East who brew their own beer exclusively for their customers. Made on site in small batches twice a month they produce 10 firkins (around 400 litres). This process takes around a month to brew, ferment and condition in their cellars before its ready to sell. There are three beers made on site by Antoine Josser from Westcott and local resident Mark Chapman. Not all are available all year round but the day I visited Crooked Furrow and Surrey Puma (a seasonal stout) were on tap. They also have a an American pale ale called Smilers Happiness, named after a much loved local John Steele who died of cancer in March 2016. In dedication to him the Inn conceived the idea of a beer in his name.

In addition to their own brews, this free house sells beers from other local breweries such as Fools Gold from Tillingbourne and a selection from Hogs Back. Whilst as a free house they don’t have to buy any national branded beers they have found that lager drinkers are more fickle so you’ll find Carlsberg and St Miguel on tap plus one from a more local brewery Firebird. They also have an eclectic range of new wave local gins such as Silent Pool, Brighton & Gutsy Monkey (made in nearby Dorking).

On the pub menu the focus is on local and seasonal food. The core menu changes four times a year but is supplemented with a specials board. This John stressed, really is for specials and they often test run dishes here before placing them on the new seasons menu. Much of what is on offer here is made on site. What isn’t comes from suppliers such as local artisan bakers Chalk Hills of Reigate, and meat from award winning Rawlings of Cranleigh. Eating lunch with a friend recently we shared a starter of game, apricot and gherkin terrine served with home made chutney and warm (great attention to detail here) Chalk Hills fig and walnut bread (£7.50) .

For mains I went for local producer Ravi Ollies beetroot and feta ravioli pasta with a fresh cream and dill sauce (£10.95) while my dining partner opted for home made chicken pie, gravy, mash and vegetables (£11.95). We loved the food, it was full of flavour, carefully prepared and with sensible portions. The pie was served with a selection of fresh vegetables and we felt the food represented good hospitality at a fair price. Although we were fairly stuffed we felt it would be rude not to sample a dessert and chose the coffee crème brulee served with shortbread and Caroline’s Dairy chocolate ice-cream (£6.50). This combination was a huge hit and so delicious that we ate the lot. All made on site apart from the ice cream (from local producer Caroline’s Dairy)  this was a brûlée to remember for its presentation, taste and texture. After coffee from local roaster Coffee Real we went to take a look around the shop.

The shop, which was the final element of the business to open in October 2016, was envisioned for both locals and visitors alike. The last village shop in Coldharbour closed its doors in 1982 forcing locals to shop in nearby Dorking. Sadly over the last few years Dorking has become so busy that parking at certain times is a challenge if not impossible. This, locals say, makes having a shop on the doorstep again all the more appealing. It’s amazing how much stock a small shop can carry. Stocking a wonderful range of products from basics (toothpaste and washing up liquid) to gourmet artisan cheeses, chocolate and seaweed mayonnaise is all down to thoughtful curation.

Becky’s mum Sue, who clearly has, a natural affinity for food retailing, is at the helm here. Energetic, lively and clearly passionate about her new venture she has filled the shop with a superb range of complimentary food and ingredients. Surrey Cheese, Norbury Blue is here (and on the pub menu) as is Burwash Rose from East Sussex. In the freezer you will find ready meals from Surrey Spice, Pasta from Ravi Ollie and ice cream from Caroline’s Dairy. Gourmet pies come from Toms Pies in Devon and meat stuffed sausage rolls and pasties from Rawlings Butchers in Cranleigh. Bread comes from artisan bakery Chalk Hills and a craft bakery in Cranleigh.

For cyclists and walkers a couple of stools in the shop window are a great place to sip a Barista Coffee and enjoy a homemade cake if you don’t fancy a full meal in the pub. While I was sitting there a local smallholder arrived with a tray of free-range eggs from his chickens. I also met some walkers from Holland who were committed to coming back for another visit. The positivity that this business has given to the village and wider community is evident and another good reason to veer off the high street and into the Surrey hills.

www.ploughinn.com

This review first appeared in the March Issue of Essence of Surrey Magazine. I was invited to dine at the Plough by the owners on the understanding that I only publish reviews if I can really recommend the experience. I loved everything about it!

 

 

The Richard Onslow

Blog, Chains, gastro pub, Local products, Restaurants, Reviews

The Richard Onslow, 113-117 High St, Cranleigh, GU6 8AU

An established dining room with a seriously creative menu from independent pub group Peach.

The upside: A gastro-pub with a outstanding unique menu which wanders outside the norm!

The downside: Struggling here….

The flipside: Top marks for energetic creative management!

When I was contacted by the PR company representing the Richard Onslow asking if I would like sample their new summer menu I immediately agreed. My review policy is one I stick to but I had already given the thumbs up to this pub in 2013 so a return visit was long overdue.

I had heard that founding manager John Taylor who is credited with putting this pub firmly on Surrey’s culinary map was leaving for pastures new. What a legacy he has left behind; management team that looked after me on the day I visited were high energy, well informed, slick and personable. Having studied the Peach Pubs website before I visited it seemed that they were exactly what they say they are, professional, dedicated, fun loving and food-centric.

mike scott chef richard onslowTerri the Manager told me that each of the 18 pubs in this group are allowed to keep their individual personalities and each chef has menu autonomy aside from five classics that each pub menu carries. They are careful to keep the ethos of each venue in keeping with their location make sure that passing trade and locals are catered for with equal attention. The new menu I was there to sample was a collaboration of the in house chefs and development chef Mike Scott.

I had been invited to review the new summer menu and at the time of writing I feel guilty that a month has passed since visiting. The menu will run until September and I am sure that after my delightful experience the replacement will be just as good. My plus one was my teenage son (aged 15) who was doing one of his work experience weeks with me. He told me the other day that he preferred the week he did with the Yvonne Arnaud Theatre (not surprisingly) but that lunch at the Richard Onslow had been a highlight of his week with me.

The Richard Onslow in Cranleigh, Surrey.

On arrival we were seated in their delightful dining room, which has a mixture of comfy sofas, dining chairs, round, square and oblong tables. This I like, as depending on the size of your party, you can choose a format that suits you. It’s a stylish light room with subtle decor a contemporary edge and a relaxed vibe.

dining room richard onslow

The summer menu has some really interesting plates. It’s a refreshing compilation featuring summery seasonal ingredients and current food trends. For starters we chose free-range ham and cheddar croquettes with garlic aioli and Secretts watercress £7.25 and a spring onion and pea Scotch egg with pesto mayonnaise (£6.75). My son devoured his croquettes, which were crunchy, rich and cheesy. Dipping the croquettes into the aioli with a fork of watercress gave a perfect balance of flavours. My Scotch egg had a high scoring soft centre. The Scotch egg on its own was well seasoned but adding the pesto mayonnaise lifted the flavour profile from great to gorgeous. The chef was keen for us to sample his favourite starter from the menu, which was a stunner. Pan-fried scallops and monkfish with Bombay potatoes and Indian salad (£9.75 starter/£19.95 main) was a riot of ingredients. Plump fresh succulent scallops and monkfish with a backdrop of a Bhel Poori house style salad from London’s famous Drummond Street; if you have never been there do! Its a London institution. This was actually one of the most innovative dishes I have had in a while and it worked so well. I like risky cooking and this was a great example.

richard onslow starter trio

Onto the mains my teenage companion predictably chose sausages and mash from the specials board whilst I went for sea bass with saffron potatoes, mussels and clam chowder (£17.00). My son wolfed his dinner down and I savoured my dish. Crispy skin fish twinned with a creamy seafood chowder which was comforting but not overly rich. The fish and seafood were super fresh too suggesting a hint of the Mediterranean in Cranleigh (indulge me it was a sunny day). We ordered a dish of peas, courgette and beans which were sautéed in butter and simply gorgeous and a generous portion too. It was lunchtime and I was driving but I did notice that the wine list is comprehensive and priced to satisfy any budget with a few local English wines listed too.

mians richard onlsow trio

The dessert menu included a vegan peanut butter and chocolate brownie made with Valrhona chocolate which can be served with sorbet if requested (£5.75) My chocoholic son had his with Jude’s vanilla ice-cream. The brownie was not oversweet (as is often the case) so a perfect partner to ice-cream. Served warm it was light in texture with an intense chocolate note and a nutty finish. My choice in complete contrast was grilled peach served with biscotti and Chantilly cream. I felt the biscotti here were a little large but this may have been because the portions here are generous and we had eaten really well. The Chantilly cream was delicious and the plate looked and tasted fantastic.

desserts trio

I finished with a pot of mint tea and development Chef Mike Scott came for a chat. Full of enthusiasm and clearly enjoying his job he echoed the ethos of Peach pubs which had been so eloquently described by his colleague Terri. We had had a terrific lunch served by energetic, well-informed and happy staff so I wasn’t surprised to discover that the company had won Best Employer in the 2015 Hospitality Awards.

They seem to have it all here and its delightful to find that this venue seems to have improved since my last review visit (its often the reverse). I also like the fact that they have a good mix of buying local where they can (bread from the craft baker across the road ) and salad leaves from Secretts in Milford, plan menus to the seasons and really care about the provenance too.

I am already planning a return visit and feel justified in giving this venue a big thumbs up.

Tel 01483 274922

www.therichardonslow.co.uk

Jam Packed Preserves

Blog, Food producers, Local producer, Local products, Products, Reviews, , , , , , , , , , ,

Gorgeous thick fruit and vegetable packed jars of preserves from a true cottage industry in Surrey.

The upside: A huge range of lovingly prepared jams, marmalades, jellies and chutneys made by hand the old fashioned way.

The downside: Only on sale in a few outlets and charity events

The flipside: With a new website and online shop launching soon sourcing will become easy peasy!

In the artisan food world there are many different styles of producers. Some who produce from their own kitchens with little or no start up budget or investment and others who have investors, industrial units and can afford branding and marketing. Some companies of course have a bit of both. I am comfortable with any of these options providing the eating quality and provenance of the products is top notch. Like a lot of my new connections my introduction to Jam Packed Preserves came via twitter. I follow a food consultant and food product guru Tessa Stuart who sent me a link to Jam Packed as they are based in Surrey. She has written two extremely digestible and informative books for wannabe food producers (Packed and Flying off the Shelves), which are best sellers. Her pedigree comes from her time working with top companies such as the Innocent Smoothie Brand. So with a recommendation to link up I happily took the bait.

1

I went to visit Sue and Kevin Woodward at their headquarters in Epsom to record their story. I had already had a chat to Sue before my visit so I knew that she and her husband had careers in the NHS, but Kevin had retired from his role working a senior clinician in operating theatres two years ago. Sue continues to work in nurse education. Alongside a very full on life they had taken on an allotment 8 yrs ago and an inherited a vigorous bed of autumn fruiting raspberries. Realising they couldn’t possibly consume all this fruit themselves Sue rang her mum up for her jam recipe. As the season moved blackcurrants and redcurrants became available they kept making more and more jam. Selling and giving surplus to friends the beginning of what later became ‘Jam Packed’ emerged.

jam trio 2

It didn’t take long for the jam-making bug to bite and they expanded to jellies and chutneys too. They decided to sell their surplus stock and their first commercial deal was with a local butcher who took their products. He recorded how much he sold and Sue and Kevin got their meat from him in return. This is great example of good old fashioned bartering and something my clients know I am not averse to either. Friends also became regular customers and loved their products so much they encouraged them to take tables at local fund raising events. In fact Sue and Kevin prefer to attend fund-raisers with their products rather than farmers markets as they can support charities while they are selling.

Having had a break from jam making to complete and submit her PhD in 2012, the couple also became carers for their first grandchild two year ago and decided to build a business making preserves around this. So while they have been slowly building up their business over the past few years they now want to take things to the next level. Not that they have been slouching since 2014. You can buy their products from several local independent farm shops, delis and tea rooms throughout Surrey and into Hampshire. In addition they are also sold at West Green Fruit Farm where they have been producing jam from the fruit grown for a couple of years (sold on site in the PYO).

What I really like here is that Sue and Kevin pick a lot of the fruit they use for their jams themselves from their own allotment, garden, farms, friends gardens and contacts they have made along the way. Many of whom are now customers. This is a sustainable model, which also takes advantage of fruit grown that would not otherwise be harvested. In addition they know exactly where their fruit comes from and that it’s local (apart from Seville oranges and lemon for marmalade).

Untitled design (2)

Provenance and sustainability are all good market hooks but what about taste? I am the first to admit that the jam and chutney market is congested to say the least. All food retailers love products with a long shelf life and that’s exactly what you get with this style of preserving. Consequently it’s also why lots of producers enter the market and why farm shops are stacked high with jars of curious and better-known concoctions. Interestingly when I went to visit Jam Packed I was thinking ‘not another jam producer’ but I was pleasantly surprised. Here is why they are different.

In addition to the usual jams (such as raspberry and blackcurrant) Jam Packed also produce a range of jams from hybrid fruits such as tummelberries (similar to tayberries) and chuckleberries (a cross between a blackcurrant a redcurrant and a gooseberry) giving this particular jam an interesting texture. Adding silvanberries, boysenberries and loganberries to the mix and I am starting to get very interested. We carried out a tasting session and all of these jams as the company name suggests are made with a high fruit to sugar ratio and it stands out in the fiercely fruity flavours each with its own personality. This duo also makes a range of marmalades (all with hand cut peel) and Seville orange jelly. The jelly looks as glorious as it tastes and I have my fingers crossed that one might come home with me (it does) as I can imagine it immediately as a glaze on duck breast or as part of a chocolate and orange mousse.

Kevin has also become a master of chili-based jams, jellies and chutneys where they have won awards for their products in annual The Chutney Awards. Jam-packed, has for a small artisan producer a great range of seasonal products some of which are fiercely traditional and others more contemporary in style. Recently added lines include Naga Chili jam and chutney made with real ale from Surrey Brewery Hog’s Back.

You also have to applaud their marketing style which includes supporting charity events by taking tables at local fetes and fairs rather than farmers markets is endearing to say the least.

Chutneys-Herbs-2900

If you would like to sample their products first hand they have a list of stockists on their new website, an online shop for retailers and for sale direct to the public. Sue and Kevin are also happy to come and do meet the producer events and tastings to share their delicious hand crafted products. If you are a fan of the local food movement look out for this brand as they really are ‘hand stirred’ in Surrey.

www.jampackedpreserves.co.uk

Sue Woodward 07941932529

Some of the images taken for this post were taken by Ben de Montagnac whose company WBYW have also built the new Jam Packed Website.

Elm Kitchen at Elm Farm Nursery

Blog, Cafes, children's parties, Farm, Farm Shop, Local products, , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

Sutton Green Road, Sutton Green, Guildford GU4 7QD

Innovative salads, freshly baked cakes and savouries using some local ingredients dominate the menu at this new kitchen at Elm Farm Nursery!

The Upside: A great addition at Elm Farm Nursery for delicious home cooked food in a delightful setting.

The downside: Elm Kitchen Café is not open on Mondays.

The flipside: The food here is all home-made with an admirable ‘no deep fryer’ policy meaning that nuggets and chips are permanently off the menu.

Elm Nursery in Sutton Green is one of my favourite places. Run by a lovely family this is a low key welcoming and friendly venue. Famed locally for Mum Rita’s bedding plants and amazing filled hanging baskets it was crying out for a café. The café was supposed to open last year but electrical supply issues and other difficulties led to a few months delay. This was a frustrating for Jacqui Street who is at the helm. Already making pies for the Olive Tree pub down the road and for Joes farm shop (on site) Jacqui’s cooking skills were a known quantity.

elm farm trip

Softly opening in late April they have steadily been growing a local following. Home-made quiche, meaty sausage rolls (a treat with a high meat to pastry ratio), Scotch eggs and interesting salads are complimented by home made soup, freshly made sandwiches (from £4) and English breakfasts (from £6).

soup elm farm

Jacqui sticks to local suppliers when she can; Ray Rowley butchers supply free range bacon and pork for breakfasts, sausage meat for the sausage rolls and Scotch eggs (both £3 each). Free-range eggs also come from Rowley’s as even though there are lots of chickens at Elm Farm their eggs are sold in the farm shop. Bread comes from Christmas Bakery one of the few traditional bakers in the area supplying the farm too.

The menu has plenty of choice, ambitious considering small kitchen. I went with my kids on a warm day so I opted for a grilled halloumi salad from the specials menu. This was a delicious of mix freshly grilled cheese, avocado, peppers, tomatoes, couscous and chick-peas on salad leaves. Topped with roasted pine kernels it had immediate kerb appeal. I loved the fact that when Jacqui bought it to the table she bought a little jug of dressing too.

Elm kitchen blog photos 2

Too many times since writing ‘Eat Surrey” I have been expected to munch my way through a plate of dry leaves (read my article here on this). My daughter opted for freshly made roasted tomato and basil soup with half a prawn and avocado sandwich. They are flexible here because they can be and it was the perfect sized portion. Essential here as we also ordered a home-made sausage roll. Heavy on sausage and light on pastry and warmed through we ended up having two (£3 each). My son chose a chicken, chorizo and roasted red pepper sandwich, which came with a salad garnish and a portion of crisps (£5). It was freshly prepared super stuffed and the addition of soft roasted peppers was inspired. To finish we had coffee (from Nature) and tea. Sadly no room left for a slice of home-made cake. Having sampled these in the past I can verify that they taste every bit as good as they look (from £2.20)

Elm Kitchen blog photos 1

The café is situated next to a small animals feeding area for kids with chickens, ducks, geese, guinea pigs, rabbits & pigs. In the field next door say hello to Llamas (Luna and Saffron), miniature ponies and goats. My daughter (20) and my son (15) spent ages with the animals proving what a hit they are regardless of age. The café itself has been built at the end of a new grassed off picnic area. Visitors can bring their own picnic and use the seating provided outside right next to the pens of chickens, rabbits, guinea pigs and rabbits. Perfect for young children who can be contained within the area that is safe for them to play around in a lovely setting and easy for parents to keep an eye on. Entry into the animal enclosure for children to feed the animals and get a closer look is just £1. Feed is available from the farm shop.

animlas

Kids parties are popular here and Jacqui can provide a top notch kids menu with plenty of healthy choices and a lovely birthday cake too. Pop in for a chat to get more details.

Elm Kitchen is a great addition to a growing portfolio of new independent cafés in Surrey. Go and give it a try you wont be disappointed!

http://www.elmnursery.co.uk/

01483 755559 

I would like to thank my work experience student Xavier Brunton from George Abbot School for taking the images and laying them out for this post.

Grass Roots Bakery

Bakery, Blog, Local producer, Local products, Our blog, Reviews, , , , , , , , ,

A new start up producing fantastic gluten free rolls and bread mixes from a bespoke craft bakery in Surrey

andrea grass roots

The upside: Great tasting gluten and dairy free bread which is also preservative free.

The downside: Limited shelf life once baked (but freezes well)

The flipside: A credible textured bread for those seeking 100% gluten free product

When Noels Farm Shop (at Sutton Green Garden Centre) started to sell Grass Roots gluten free bread rolls late in 2015 Noel was keen to share how good they were. Unlike many gluten free bread products on the market the rolls looked great and clearly had texture. Produced just a few miles down the road in a small industrial estate in Woking I popped over to meet the owner and view the bread in production.

Andrea Walsh trained as a bio-chemist having taken a degree in chemistry. This has been essential to her success in this bakery venture and her ability to create a brilliant product and comply with food regulations in the sensitive area of free-from foods. Andrea’s business partner is her husband Steve an inventor of electrical products. The bakery is based within his lab where they created a bespoke sealed production space with brand new equipment. This means that they can be 100% confident that all their products are totally gluten free. This for people who suffer from gluten intolerance or coeliac disease is the reassurance they need. For some people just a small amount of contamination from gluten can have a devastating affects on their health. To find a product that is made in a totally wheat free zone is a real find.

As a family, Andrea and her children are gluten intolerant. Fed up with pappy dry and tasteless bread Andrea decided to make her own. With her science background she was able to replicate the characteristics of traditional bread from a range of gluten free ingredients. A few months of experimenting with different recipes Andrea fine-tuned her recipe. Sampling her new bread with friends they all raved about how good it was and her family loved it too. With such great feedback she decided to share this with others and so the Grass Roots Bakery was born.

trio 2 grass roots

Launching the bakery very quietly in June 2015 Andrea sold her bread to a farm shop near Woking where owner Noel had realised that there was a demand for gluten free products and was keen to stock the rolls. Unlike commercially produced gluten free bread (with preservatives) Andrea uses a natural approach to baking and the rolls have only 2 days life from production. Actually when you toast or warm through in the oven even from 3-4 days they are still really delicious but not at their best. However the rolls do freeze really well so freezing what you don’t use straight away is a perfect solution.

I wanted to see the bread in production so in the true spirit of HACCP (Hazard Analysis Critical Control Points) we got changed into kitchen whites, put on hairnets (not a great look for me) and went into the bakery. First off its clear how incredibly clean the bakery is with brand new equipment and clearly a meticulous standard of hygiene. Andrea had already weighed out her secret recipe flour and then added oil, water and eggs. Using a giant electric whisk the dough is worked until a soft moist mixture has formed. As there is no gluten involved here it doesn’t need the classic ten-minute work out on the proteins to form the dough. It’s also noticeable that this dough is wetter than one that is wheat based which makes it difficult to handle.

grass roots trio

With an inventor for a husband Steve created the perfect solution. Using his electronic skill set he created a device that sucks up the right amount of dough for each roll which can then be deposited on to the baking sheet to rise. This means the rolls are all slightly different shapes; which adds a certain Wallis and Gromit charm to the process. As the dough is wetter and the rolls are large they take around one hour to bake in a medium oven. Unfortunately I wasn’t able to stay that long but in any case Andrea had already sent me some rolls to try so I knew how good they were.

With a product life of two days it was clear to Andrea that this was going to be an issue for retailers who like a longer shelf life. Her solution was to sell to shops but also offer a bread mix too. All Grass Roots products are available online from the bakery and include white and high fibre rolls in packs of four or twelve and bread mixes. The bread mixes are also sold in two sizes.

bread mix tri

Andrea has gone for a soft launch but is hoping to sell her products via farm shops, delis and specialist food shops. To give her products the credibility they need in the free-from market Andrea has spent time making sure her products are safe for her intended user group. Just recently she has received accreditation from Coeliac UK which, for those with gluten intolerance and coeliac disease is a recognised and trusted seal of approval.

I meet a lot of people on my travels in Surrey and in Andrea you couldn’t meet a nicer and more dedicated grass roots bakerybaker. I love her scientific approach, which has helped enormously in the creation of a great product range. The gluten free bread market is a tough nut to crack but they have definitely created a winning formula here.

www.grassrootsbakery.co.uk

01483 730474

Norbury Blue

Blog, Cheesemakers, Food producers, Local producer, Local products, , , , , , ,

Norbury Blue and Dirty Vicar Cheese.

Surrey only has one artisan cheese-maker but their delicious cheese is revered throughout the county. Highly regarded by farm shops, delis and featured on local menus its a product to be proud of.

Michaela Allam started making cheese from her dad’s milk in 2001. Travelling around farmers market to sell her cheese she met Neil a michaelaNorburyBluewatercress grower and love bloomed over their love of local food. Neil decided that watercress was a lesser love so he married Michaela and her cheese-making prowess and moved to Surrey. Now they work together blissfully making batches of their delicious cheese. Norbury blue is a soft blue cheese with a big attitude. Made with unpasteurised milk from Michaela’s father’s closed herd of Friesian cattle this is artisan food production as it should be. I went to see them in production but sadly had to share the cheese shed with a film crew who were making an educational movie so Neil showed me the ropes while Michaela was transplanted onto the big screen.

First off Neil explained that their milk is a huge element of the provenance of their final product. The cows are grazed on the farms meadows and milked twice a day. They mix the morning and evening milking as the first milking is the most nutritious (this also changes in quality during the seasons, summer milk being of a higher quality than winter milk). The essential element here is a high percentage of buttermilk; it’s the richness of this that adds a creamy mouth-feel to the ripened cheese. Cleaning up on arrival, hairnets and plastic overshoes in place we went into the red brick dairy. In the centre, a huge cooling and heating tank holding 900 litres of milk. Deposited after the milking last night, chilled and allowed to settle. You can see a layer of buttermilk glistening on the surface. In preparation the milk has now been heated to around 30° the prime temperature for the addition of a bacterial culture.

Norbury_farm

Different cheeses have different bacteria added depending on what flavour and texture you want to achieve. Bacteria that like protein are used in soft cheese making (I studied this at university luckily) which ensure a creamy soft finish. The bacteria used here is also responsible for the blue mould growth that adds the distinctive flavour. After Neil had stirred in the culture the milk is left for just under an hour to allow the bacteria to do its magic here.

making_cheese_1800_900

Hearing a commotion outside, Neil took me to see the cows being brought down for milking. These are lucky cows living in prime meadows and allowed free range. Norbury Farm is near Box Hill hidden away from the road and hard to find too. I arrived driving down a public footpath which Neil assured me was the only access road to the farm. Nestled at the bottom of the hill the red brick nineteenth century farmhouse and outbuildings create an idyllic environment from the weather vein on top to the lush green fields.

It was time to go back to the milk as at this stage, regular stirring has to take place which Neil has alerts set up on his mobile phone (how did we ever manage without them). Every ten minutes the milk is stirred with a charming pink spade and finally its time to add the vegetarian rennet. Rennet makes the curd and whey separate, as it’s the milk solids that make cheese. Milk has a high water content, which is why you need so much of it. Neil starts to pull a huge circular cheese wire through the solidifying milk. This helps release the whey which is collected into a drainage system and recycled to enrich the soil for winter feed production. The curds are obvious now and Neil used a large plastic jug to pour the sloppy mixture into the waiting moulds. The curds are left overnight then removed from the moulds and rubbed with salt. After salting the cheeses are taken to a holding room, warm and humid to encourage mould growth and then to a maturing room. The cheeses are ripened for 6-8 weeks, hand turned every couple of days after which they are dispatched for sale.

cheeses_1800_900

About four years ago Neil and Michaela added a new cheese to their portfolio. This took investment and planning for a new ripening room as its made with a different culture to Norbury Blue. They were struggling to find a name for their soft white cheese with a crumbly creamy texture and Camembert style rind. An incident in the local pub one night came to their rescue as a local vicar was leaving and a fellow drinker muttered under her breath “dirty vicar” a reference to the fact that he had remarried swiftly after the death of his first wife. They had been searching for a whimsical name after seeing the success of Stinking Bishop (a real cheese featured in a Wallace and Gromit movie) and this they decided immediately was it. It’s a lovely cheese with a charming story and great conversation piece for your cheeseboard.More recently Neil and Michaela have added a third cheese to their portfolio, Tipsy Vicar. This is Dirty Vicar that has been marinated in beer to give it a alcoholic glow and richer flavour profile. Its not available all the time but a lovely seasonal addition to their range.

You can buy Norbury Blue and Dirty Vicar cheese from many farm shops and delicatessens in Surrey and farther afield a full list of stockists can be found on their website.

www.norburyblue.co.uk

 

Farretti Bakery

Bakery, Blog, event caterer, Local producer, Local products, , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

Run by native Italian Val this small artisan bakery produces soft crust, slow fermented authentic Italian breads for farm shops, independent stores and caterers in Surrey and West Sussex.

This bakery has been on my radar since buying their bread at Secretts in Milford a while ago. It’s val-with-pizza-6x9tasty and light with a dough structure that suggests long fermentation. Kind on the palate (I am not a fan of challenging crusts) it holds its own with just the right bite resistance. This bread provides the perfect vehicle for carrying sandwich fillings and dipping oils in both taste and texture. When owner Valeriana de Berardinis got in touch I jumped at the chance to visit the bakery.

Val is a diminutive figure and I think in her younger days would have rocked an Audrey Hepburn look. Coming from Pescara in the Abruzzo region of Italy she came to study in the UK for 6 months. She met her husband here (also Italian) and they returned to Italy and opened a restaurant together. Their pizzeria was in a small province of Pescara in Civitella Casanova. Opening in 1984 in a restored former railway station, they were successful and long queues were the norm to eat in or take-away. Sadly a move to a larger site, the arrival of their son and a collapsed bridge on their only access road cutting off passing trade meant neither the business nor the marriage survived. However a relationship with long fermentation dough and baking had begun and it’s the core of her business today.

faretti bakery cutting pizza

After a move to the UK, various jobs and a computing course Val realized she wanted to be her own boss. With little money but baking expertise she started to make focaccia with spelt flour. Taking samples to health food shops, cafes and bars orders started to trickle in and Val gained a reputation for great bread and Italian biscuits. Too much diversity and a contract with a large mill became too difficult to handle so Val wound down her business took some time out and came back with a better model. Soon after Farretti bakery was launched and this time around she based her recipes on the founding father of modern Italian bread Dr Cavallari. A miller by trade he and his colleagues saw a threat from the French baguette and came up with an Italian competitor (Ciabatta was first seen in British food retailers in 1985). Coming up with a wet dough that when cooked was soft it leant itself well to the growing sandwich market. Val contacted Dr Cavallari and asked him to help her perfect her recipes. He was happy to help and they are now friends and in regular contact.

making-bread-collage

 

faretti sign6x9Housed in an old converted stable in Lodsworth the bakery is overlooked by fields and luscious pastureland. Horses, cows and sheep are in view and it feels a little bit romantic. Step inside the bakery and the contrast is stark, it’s hot because at forty degrees Celsius yeast is at its most productive and this is essential for formation of the trademark bubbly texture. Making the starter dough the previous night (called biga) it’s left to ferment. Using the right flour for this bread style is essential too and selection of Marriages Canadian Manitoba flour is no accident. This wheat is grown for its high protein content, harvested in spring and used exclusively for a long fermentation process.

Arriving in the morning the Val undertakes the second mix adding more flour and yeast this time (common practice in sour dough production) another prove its then time to shape the bread. Plain or black olive Ciabatta (slipper), foccaccia (with added olive oil and rosemary) or rolls. For some customers there are also pizza bases. Val had been hard at work since 4am (it was now 1pm) and as I peruse the shelves loaf after loaf of slipper bread (Ciabatta) are being lined up for baking. On its second prove (the first is for 24 hours) its rising fast creating large gas pockets which create its texture and crust. Val works fast cutting and weighing the dough to ensure consistency. In the front of the bakery Val’s assistant is baking the loaves, cooling and packing.

faretti_bread_sandwich9x6

Val bakes 2 days per week (more for special orders) for her current contracts. She does what a lot of small producers should do; produce a small range of really great products but to the highest standard. Luckily for Val her bread freezes beautifully and as it’s so light also defrosts quickly. Making this perfect for clients who want a plentiful supply of bread and have adequate freezer storage. Typical of sour dough bread this has a 5-6 day shelf life if stored in a cool environment. Packaged simply in hand stamped paper bags they are good to go.

Val launched Farretti Bakery in 2010. It’s a simple business model with a small range of expertly elaine farrettihand-produced bread. Apart from the use of an electric mixer for the biga (sour dough starter) and the final bread dough, weighing, cutting and shaping of the bread and rolls is by hand. Val employs a local lady Elaine to help in the bakery. Here Elaine is in charge of baking each batch of bread to achieve consistency and quality. She also helps to pack and collate orders for the delivery vehicle to dispatch. In fact its Elaine’s brother Steven who arrived at the bakery at 4.30am to start work. Val’s customers love the fact the bread arrives early in time for the start of business.

Val is a tenacious and spirited lady but that aside it’s the bread here that speaks volumes and its no surprise that it’s available in 25 independent shops and eateries in the region; and quite a feat given the size of the bakery. At the end of my visit we sat on a bench outside the bakery and ate pizza for lunch. It was wonderful end to a really inspirational visit and I am now officially their No.1 fan.

For a full list of products and prices you will find a link to the Farretti website and contact details below. Val has capacity for more shops providing they are on or close to her current delivery route.

Facebook                faretti bread

Twitter @farretti

Langham Stables
Lodsworth
Petworth
West Sussex
GU28 9BU

Phone: 01798 860966
Email: val@farretti.com
www.farretti.com