Tag Archives: local sausages

Etherley Farm

Etherley Farm, Leith Hill Lane, Ockley, Surrey, RH5 5PA

The upside: Ethically reared poultry and meat from a well run rural business with provenance.

The downside: Don’t expect a picturesque arrival this is a working farm.

The flipside: You can buy direct from the farm shop or from any of the markets they attend and several independent food retailers.

Driving to Etherley Farm near Dorking in the Surrey Hills is an adventure through some of the most beautiful countryside this county has to offer. As you arrive on the farm you can see open fields that are home to chicken, ducks, geese, turkey and sheep. There is nothing fancy here just a good old-fashioned farm slowly raising their stock in a healthy, natural environment. Sheep are a newer addition here and are the only animals not slaughtered on site for the butchery. Lamb, hogget and mutton are all available in season and much loved by their growing band of customers who love the quality and provenance of the products here. The fact that you can see the animals outside and how healthy they are is a big plus too.

I discovered Etherley farm through my friends over at Village Greens Farm Shop in Ockley. Just around the corner from their Coles Lane shop they directed me to Charlie (who heads up the team here) who not only sells direct to the public from the small butchery and produce shop, but also via a few retail outlets and farmers market (such as Ockley Farmer Market) in the county too. In addition they also supply some of the top restaurants in Surrey . At the time of writing Etherley Farm duck is on the menu at Michelin Star Chef, Steve Drakes new venture, Sorrel in Dorking.

Etherley Farm started life as a dairy farm in 1958 and continued to produce milk up until 2001. By that time membership of the EU and a common market policy saw a decline in the price paid for milk. In the years leading up to this, Richard (Charlie’s Husband) had already started producing poultry to supplement the farms dwindling income. Like many farmers they decided to pull out of milk production when the cost of producing it became higher than the price paid. Sadly they sold their dairy herd and started to get serious about rearing birds instead. It was around this time that Charlie and Richard got married and while he looks after the livestock Charlie runs the shop and does the markets. On the farm year round you will find chickens, ducks, geese and sheep. They have laying birds for eggs and birds destined for the table. In July 1,000 young turkeys arrive to live outside on the farm in a massive field to slowly mature for Thanksgiving and Christmas.

My first visit to Etherley Farm was around five years ago. At that time the farm shop was a shed with a couple of freezers in it. Not very appealing but because I had already sampled their chicken from Village Greens I knew it was really great quality with depth of flavour and texture. Thanks to a grant from Rural Surrey Leader they have been able to convert a derelict farm building into a new toilet and shower block for their campsite and add a new farm shop and on site butchery. This has allowed the farm to grow its core business and expand their range of products offered to the public. In addition to whole and jointed birds they offer a lovely range of prepared products such duck sausages, chicken , duck and turkey burgers. The duck sausages are apparently delicious with mash and sweet and sour red cabbage.

Their ethos is one of simplicity, with low intensity, low stocking rates and the minimal amount of additives to ensure healthy stock. Ducks (including laying ducks), turkeys and geese arrive as day old chicks and spend the first few weeks in their brooder and airy barns to develop and be strong enough to go outside. Both types of our chickens (laying and eating) arrive when they are a bit older. However, all the animals have the opportunity to roam around the fields. The turkey, geese and ducks here are really top end and its no wonder that they supply many local award winning butchers and restaurants too.

The newest addition to the farm, are sheep, a flock of 61 North of England Mules and two rams. Grass fed, they are outside all year round, apart from a short period during the lambing season when they need to be indoors for monitoring and extra food. Their aim is to finish the lambs on grass only which is always perceived to be the optimum process, however sometimes they may feed them for a short period of time to ensure a quality finish to the resulting meat. Some of the animals are kept beyond one year to produce hogget and mutton, which has seen a revival in the last few years. Cooked a little slower the meat is delicious and full flavoured.

All slaughter of poultry is done on the farm, which means the animals only have a short distance to travel, reducing the stress on the bird. All the butchery, plucking, preparation, making of sausages and burgers and packaging is also carried out onsite. Sheep however are taken to a local abattoir and then returned, to be butchered. One of the quality aspects of their turkeys, Charlie explained is that they dry pluck the birds which takes longer but extends the shelf life allowing the birds to be hung (like beef) for the flavour and texture to develop. Battery turkeys will be wet plucked (quicker) reducing shelf life and increasing water content making the meat dryer once its cooked.

Turkey’s Charlie says, make great pets, as they are very sweet and inquisitive birds. I asked her if she got attached to them and she laughed and said they have a built in death wish! Apparently they will eat anything that they see which could be bit of plastic, string or fabric, which often get blown onto the farm. The team have to diligently remove all items on a daily basis or run the risk of a fatality as they have an inability to deal with anything getting caught in their throats. So when it comes to doing the deed and getting them ready for Christmas Orders it’s a sigh of relief all round.

In addition to Village Greens you can also buy Etherley Farm birds from several award winning butchers in Surrey too, the list is on the website (details below).They also attend Ockley Farmers Market which started in March 2107 and is on the first Sunday of each month.

Why not support your local independent producer this Christmas by buying the main attraction of your celebration dinner directly from them. It’s a decision that has winners at both ends of the transaction.

Tel. 01306 621500

enquiries@etherleyfarm.co.uk

www.etherleyfarm.co.uk

Hunts Hill Farm and Farm Shop

Normandy Common Lane, Normandy, Guildford, GU3 2AP

The upside: Hand reared free-range meat on a Surrey Farm

The downside: Larger joints of meat must be ordered in advance

The flipside: You can buy direct from the farm shop if you miss a market

There is nothing quite as British or evocative as the aroma of freshly roasted pork or grilled sausages on the street. I moved to Guildford in 2005 after living abroad for ten years and had little time to do any research over getting my kids into school. One Tuesday shortly after arriving I was walking to the high street past the George Abbot Memorial and little by little the aroma of roasted pork and a BBQ intensified, this was my introduction to Guildford’s monthly Farmers Market. On arrival it was apparent that Hunts Hill Farm were responsible for the wonderful aroma.

In addition to selling rolls with freshly roasted pork and their award winning sausages they also sell prepared cuts of their home reared meat. I have been buying their poultry, goat, lamb, veal and sausages at markets they sell at ever since (full list on their website) The bulk of their business is at these markets and they are regulars at eight, BBQ’s however are only at some of these.

We are blessed in Surrey to have a few really good local meat producers with smallholdings who sell directly to the public via small shops or farmers markets and this is one. Based in Normandy, Hunts Hill Farm is owned by Georgina and John Emerson. Not as you would think from a family of farmers but an ex Interior Designer and Garage owner. Theirs is a story which could have been modeled on the seventies TV series the ‘Good Life’ and I imagine from meeting them with as much fun and comedy on the way.

Having decided to make a huge lifestyle change and a move to the country they bought a farm that had run into trouble and needed an injection of energy to get it back on its feet. First off John did an agricultural course at Merrist Wood to get himself on the right track. Georgina made their temporary mobile home comfortable while they planned their new farmhouse on the site. The small farm shop was built on site and this also houses the butchery and sausage production unit. Slowly they built up their livestock. In addition to saddleback pigs, goats and Aberdeen Angus and poultry they also have laying hens, geese and ducks. All free range and with lots of space, this is the home of happy animals.

Like many smallholders the best way to make a living is by selling via popular farmers markets. Georgina and John love meeting their customers and have built up a strong following. They take their meat to market, ready cut and vacuum packed with a good shelf life. Sadly the meat doesn’t look so great packed this way but its quality in eating that’s the real moniker here. I have never had a duff joint or sausage from Hunts Hill in fact the leg of goat I had from them was a dinner party centerpiece. It was only recently that I realized that Hunts Hill also had a small farm shop and bed and breakfast on site too.

I made a much overdue visit to the farm in late April. On a private road it’s signposted from the junction but caution here as the shop is only open from Wednesday – Saturday. At the end of the road you arrive at the farm and its arrival reminded me of the description in the ‘Darling Buds of May’. Rustic and ramshackle, but in a friendly welcoming way and like all the places I visit with its own distinct personality. The farm shop is small but with enough ingredients for shoppers to put a meal together. The butcher’s display is the main attraction here of course and meat is sold fresh and frozen. Choose from small joints ready to go or order larger joints in advance to avoid disappointment. The meat is all reared on the farm (apart from the rose veal which comes from a farm in Horsell Common) and the animals travel a short distance to an abattoir in Farnborough before returning to the farm where butcher Peter expertly prepares the meat for sale.

To compliment the meat, a small range of vegetables, sauces, chutney’s and of course freshly laid geese, duck and hens eggs are on offer here too. The ducks eggs looked so inviting, large, white and so freshly laid I bought half a dozen (see recipe). They came with a large white feather too! Strawberries in the shop were from Tuesley farm who grow berries on their 459 acre site in Godalming. They are famed for their fruit and Georgina ripped open a pack of strawberries to sample. New season they smell and taste sensational and its good to note that they also stock Meadow Cottage Farm raw untreated cream (an absolute delight) and ice cream too. Perfect with strawberries.

Their free-range pork is also the star of their award winning sausages. They currently have over thirty recipes in their repertoire, which they make on a rolling basis. Expect at least eight of these on offer at any one time. Mary  (pictured above) in in charge of sausage production and has been working with the Emerson’s for seventeen years. She told me that some of their prize winners include pork, apple and maple syrup, apple and black pudding, beef and guiness and beef chilli and chocolate. I decided on a pack of hot Spanish with smoked paprika. I enjoyed these with my family that evening. They were succulent, spicy and soft textured, perfect.

Georgina kindly took me into their farmhouse, which is also home to the two rooms they let out for their bed and breakfast business. Here is a glimmer into the previous world of interior design that the lady of the house inhabited. Rich colours, large comfortable sofas it’s a really fabulous space. The bedrooms for guests are off the main reception area and have their own private bathroom. Comfortable and well furnished they also look over the back garden with rolling hills in the backdrop.

 

As I was leaving we went to see the pigs who were in a field next to the house. There were two pregnant sows and a very satisfied looking boar. Taking my leave a farm helper handed Georgina a goose egg that had just been laid. I got a chance to hold this warm perfectly formed giant egg, it was a touching moment for a city girl like me.

This is a classic example of a small producer bringing high quality produce to the market and selling directly to the public. If you like me are interested in the provenance of the food you eat it doesn’t get much better than this.

www.huntshillfarm.com

I bought half a dozen ducks eggs on my visit. Find out what I did with them here.

 

 

The Plough Inn, Brewery and Village Shop

The Plough Inn, Brewery and Village Shop, Coldharbour, Surrey RH5 6HD

The upside: A historic pub bought back to life in a thriving community

The downside: Purely selfish; but its a hike from where I live

The flipside: A perfect feel good destination in the heart of Surrey

A 17th century Inn with its own brewery, a local food menu and a carefully stocked village shop, may sound too good to be true. But read on and be prepared to put this venue on your ‘to go to’ list.

The Plough Inn is located in Coldharbour, a small village with 250 residents; it has one bus a day, which leaves at 10am and the nearest shop is 5 miles away. Dating back to the 1700’s The Plough Inn had by 2015 had lost its shine and most of its reputation and was in dire need of some tender loving care. Put up for sale the pub was bought by local entrepreneur Richard Eshelby who used the pub regularly during the shooting season and didn’t want to see it close. Forming a company to manage his new asset he bought in John (an IT consultant and his wife Becky to run the business) a great plan as they are also shareholders and have a vested interest in making this business a success.

The new team started in mid September 2015 and traded whilst they formed a refurbishment plan. As part of that, they had, a vision to re-instate the village shop and keep the onsite Leith Hill Brewery open too. Today the inn has had a complete refit with six attractively furnished rooms, a new kitchen and landscaped garden and addition of a village shop. Its heart warming to see how much detail and attention has gone into the reinvention of this business, which today is central to village life.

This is a story of three parts; the Inn, Leith Hill Brewery and the village shop. Intertwined of course but each lending additional purpose.

The Inn was already on the radar of CAMRA who say this is the only pub in the South East who brew their own beer exclusively for their customers. Made on site in small batches twice a month they produce 10 firkins (around 400 litres). This process takes around a month to brew, ferment and condition in their cellars before its ready to sell. There are three beers made on site by Antoine Josser from Westcott and local resident Mark Chapman. Not all are available all year round but the day I visited Crooked Furrow and Surrey Puma (a seasonal stout) were on tap. They also have a an American pale ale called Smilers Happiness, named after a much loved local John Steele who died of cancer in March 2016. In dedication to him the Inn conceived the idea of a beer in his name.

In addition to their own brews, this free house sells beers from other local breweries such as Fools Gold from Tillingbourne and a selection from Hogs Back. Whilst as a free house they don’t have to buy any national branded beers they have found that lager drinkers are more fickle so you’ll find Carlsberg and St Miguel on tap plus one from a more local brewery Firebird. They also have an eclectic range of new wave local gins such as Silent Pool, Brighton & Gutsy Monkey (made in nearby Dorking).

On the pub menu the focus is on local and seasonal food. The core menu changes four times a year but is supplemented with a specials board. This John stressed, really is for specials and they often test run dishes here before placing them on the new seasons menu. Much of what is on offer here is made on site. What isn’t comes from suppliers such as local artisan bakers Chalk Hills of Reigate, and meat from award winning Rawlings of Cranleigh. Eating lunch with a friend recently we shared a starter of game, apricot and gherkin terrine served with home made chutney and warm (great attention to detail here) Chalk Hills fig and walnut bread (£7.50) .

For mains I went for local producer Ravi Ollies beetroot and feta ravioli pasta with a fresh cream and dill sauce (£10.95) while my dining partner opted for home made chicken pie, gravy, mash and vegetables (£11.95). We loved the food, it was full of flavour, carefully prepared and with sensible portions. The pie was served with a selection of fresh vegetables and we felt the food represented good hospitality at a fair price. Although we were fairly stuffed we felt it would be rude not to sample a dessert and chose the coffee crème brulee served with shortbread and Caroline’s Dairy chocolate ice-cream (£6.50). This combination was a huge hit and so delicious that we ate the lot. All made on site apart from the ice cream (from local producer Caroline’s Dairy)  this was a brûlée to remember for its presentation, taste and texture. After coffee from local roaster Coffee Real we went to take a look around the shop.

The shop, which was the final element of the business to open in October 2016, was envisioned for both locals and visitors alike. The last village shop in Coldharbour closed its doors in 1982 forcing locals to shop in nearby Dorking. Sadly over the last few years Dorking has become so busy that parking at certain times is a challenge if not impossible. This, locals say, makes having a shop on the doorstep again all the more appealing. It’s amazing how much stock a small shop can carry. Stocking a wonderful range of products from basics (toothpaste and washing up liquid) to gourmet artisan cheeses, chocolate and seaweed mayonnaise is all down to thoughtful curation.

Becky’s mum Sue, who clearly has, a natural affinity for food retailing, is at the helm here. Energetic, lively and clearly passionate about her new venture she has filled the shop with a superb range of complimentary food and ingredients. Surrey Cheese, Norbury Blue is here (and on the pub menu) as is Burwash Rose from East Sussex. In the freezer you will find ready meals from Surrey Spice, Pasta from Ravi Ollie and ice cream from Caroline’s Dairy. Gourmet pies come from Toms Pies in Devon and meat stuffed sausage rolls and pasties from Rawlings Butchers in Cranleigh. Bread comes from artisan bakery Chalk Hills and a craft bakery in Cranleigh.

For cyclists and walkers a couple of stools in the shop window are a great place to sip a Barista Coffee and enjoy a homemade cake if you don’t fancy a full meal in the pub. While I was sitting there a local smallholder arrived with a tray of free-range eggs from his chickens. I also met some walkers from Holland who were committed to coming back for another visit. The positivity that this business has given to the village and wider community is evident and another good reason to veer off the high street and into the Surrey hills.

www.ploughinn.com

This review first appeared in the March Issue of Essence of Surrey Magazine. I was invited to dine at the Plough by the owners on the understanding that I only publish reviews if I can really recommend the experience. I loved everything about it!

 

 

Natter Cafe

67 St. Johns Street. Farncombe, GU7 3EH

 An award winning cafe where owner Kay has created a wonderful eating and meeting space, for the local community.

The Upside: Gorgeous coffee, freshly prepared traditional all day breakfasts, contemporary salads, savouries and freshly baked cakes.

The downside: This café is so busy you need to book in advance to guarantee a lunchtime table. It’s closed in the evening but they do run events.

The flipside: Buy tickets for one of their infamous supper clubs where you can BYO and indulge in some great food at prices that won’t break the bank.

Natter café is the type of success story I would wish for any new independent starting up in this challenging market. Winner of the Muddy Stilettos best cafe in Surrey award I can tell you why this business is making waves!

Kay is the creative force behind the Natter Café and her story starts with coffee beans. Her original foray into coffee was stall in Guildford’s North Street Market which she started with a business partner in 2002. They parted company but the stall was very successful and its still at the market today. Kay’s passion for coffee retailing saw her start a coffee van service and a kiosk at Farncombe station. Her standards of service are legendary. Ring the kiosk from your mobile and they will have a latte and a bacon butty ready to pass to you on the platform as your train passes through.

insert-for-natter-cafe-blog-post-copy

Adoring customers always asked Kay when she was going to open a café. It wasn’t she says really on her radar, but when friend and estate agent John suggested a property he had would be perfect for this purpose it was a defining moment. Going on holiday the next day she had time to think it through and the rest is history. Kay is really pleased she took the plunge. Its clear she has really invested in this business the premises have been refurbished to a high standard and the result is a really lovely comfortable space.

Coffee comes from a roaster in Winchester and Kay uses single origin estate for filter coffee, which is brewed at your table. You can choose from single or double shots (from £1.50). Teas are from Canton teas known for their delicious blends many of them from Taiwan (from £2.50).

untitled-design

Food is also freshly prepared on site apart from some of the cakes, which are made by local producers. Since opening Kay has never had to advertise for staff. She has she says been lucky enough to have lots of locals (mums, students, teenagers) regularly popping in asking for work. In addition she also has lots of expert cake makers offering to supply her too! I expect the welcoming warm space Kay has created has everything to do with this.

Food is prepared by two chefs in a compact kitchen hence the need to buy in cakes but also because this café is always busy. Come late for lunch and expect to wait for a table. Kay and her team have the formula just right here. A core menu with breakfasts and sandwiches are complimented by seasonal specials. Expect soup in the winter and salads in the summer. A full English breakfast with local butcher Wakelings sausages is £8.75 and a generous plateful. For smaller people or appetites you can go for a half size portion at £5.75 (I wish more eateries did this). Smoked salmon bagels are also on offer at £5.00.

specials-board

Arriving for lunch I ordered a salad of the specials board. It was a warmish autumnal day so it was a toss up between that or roasted carrot and butternut squash soup. The salad won as my favourites were featured here; beetroot, rocket, pine nut and feta with salad leaves and a light tasty dressing. I have a pet hate of salad leaves served naked (read my article here) but these were perfectly dressed. My plus one had bacon muffins with melted brie and salad, which he said was tasty, light and gooey. I didn’t really get a look in there but I trust his judgement.

natter-cafe-savouries

We were too full for cakes but we did have coffee, which was full flavoured and served really hot. We watched the other customers around us being served equally good-looking plates of food.

natter-cafe-and-cakes

 

I love this café its got good coffee and food at its core. Kay supports other locals by procuring her stock from them wherever possible (produce from the local greengrocer and meat from Wakelings and Black Barn)  and she provides local employment too. Her staff recently for her birthday treated her to a day spa when she thought she was just going to work. I think that says it all!

Go and give Natter a whirl – opening hours and menu on the website- link below.

01483 421303
and also at Farncombe Station on Platform 1 GU7 3NF / 07531 018190

 

Elm Kitchen at Elm Farm Nursery

Sutton Green Road, Sutton Green, Guildford GU4 7QD

Innovative salads, freshly baked cakes and savouries using some local ingredients dominate the menu at this new kitchen at Elm Farm Nursery!

The Upside: A great addition at Elm Farm Nursery for delicious home cooked food in a delightful setting.

The downside: Elm Kitchen Café is not open on Mondays.

The flipside: The food here is all home-made with an admirable ‘no deep fryer’ policy meaning that nuggets and chips are permanently off the menu.

Elm Nursery in Sutton Green is one of my favourite places. Run by a lovely family this is a low key welcoming and friendly venue. Famed locally for Mum Rita’s bedding plants and amazing filled hanging baskets it was crying out for a café. The café was supposed to open last year but electrical supply issues and other difficulties led to a few months delay. This was a frustrating for Jacqui Street who is at the helm. Already making pies for the Olive Tree pub down the road and for Joes farm shop (on site) Jacqui’s cooking skills were a known quantity.

elm farm trip

Softly opening in late April they have steadily been growing a local following. Home-made quiche, meaty sausage rolls (a treat with a high meat to pastry ratio), Scotch eggs and interesting salads are complimented by home made soup, freshly made sandwiches (from £4) and English breakfasts (from £6).

soup elm farm

Jacqui sticks to local suppliers when she can; Ray Rowley butchers supply free range bacon and pork for breakfasts, sausage meat for the sausage rolls and Scotch eggs (both £3 each). Free-range eggs also come from Rowley’s as even though there are lots of chickens at Elm Farm their eggs are sold in the farm shop. Bread comes from Christmas Bakery one of the few traditional bakers in the area supplying the farm too.

The menu has plenty of choice, ambitious considering small kitchen. I went with my kids on a warm day so I opted for a grilled halloumi salad from the specials menu. This was a delicious of mix freshly grilled cheese, avocado, peppers, tomatoes, couscous and chick-peas on salad leaves. Topped with roasted pine kernels it had immediate kerb appeal. I loved the fact that when Jacqui bought it to the table she bought a little jug of dressing too.

Elm kitchen blog photos 2

Too many times since writing ‘Eat Surrey” I have been expected to munch my way through a plate of dry leaves (read my article here on this). My daughter opted for freshly made roasted tomato and basil soup with half a prawn and avocado sandwich. They are flexible here because they can be and it was the perfect sized portion. Essential here as we also ordered a home-made sausage roll. Heavy on sausage and light on pastry and warmed through we ended up having two (£3 each). My son chose a chicken, chorizo and roasted red pepper sandwich, which came with a salad garnish and a portion of crisps (£5). It was freshly prepared super stuffed and the addition of soft roasted peppers was inspired. To finish we had coffee (from Nature) and tea. Sadly no room left for a slice of home-made cake. Having sampled these in the past I can verify that they taste every bit as good as they look (from £2.20)

Elm Kitchen blog photos 1

The café is situated next to a small animals feeding area for kids with chickens, ducks, geese, guinea pigs, rabbits & pigs. In the field next door say hello to Llamas (Luna and Saffron), miniature ponies and goats. My daughter (20) and my son (15) spent ages with the animals proving what a hit they are regardless of age. The café itself has been built at the end of a new grassed off picnic area. Visitors can bring their own picnic and use the seating provided outside right next to the pens of chickens, rabbits, guinea pigs and rabbits. Perfect for young children who can be contained within the area that is safe for them to play around in a lovely setting and easy for parents to keep an eye on. Entry into the animal enclosure for children to feed the animals and get a closer look is just £1. Feed is available from the farm shop.

animlas

Kids parties are popular here and Jacqui can provide a top notch kids menu with plenty of healthy choices and a lovely birthday cake too. Pop in for a chat to get more details.

Elm Kitchen is a great addition to a growing portfolio of new independent cafés in Surrey. Go and give it a try you wont be disappointed!

http://www.elmnursery.co.uk/

01483 755559 

I would like to thank my work experience student Xavier Brunton from George Abbot School for taking the images and laying them out for this post.

Secretts Farm Shop

secretts derek cheese_6x9Hurst Farm, Chapel Lane, Milford, GU8 5HU

Upside: Fabulous seasonal produce complimented by a staggering array of culinary ingredients, top notch meat and the best stocked cheese counter for miles

Downside: There is only one Secretts in Surrey but even if it’s a hike its worth a visit!

Flipside: The farm shop is also home to Black Barn Butchers, Eliza’s Tea Room and an ethical clothing and accessory shop Jo’s unLTD.

Today Secretts in run by father and son team Charles and Greg Secrett but they partly owe their success to their fascinating heritage.  The story starts with Charles’s grandfather who chose horticulture from the range of options open to a young man in the early 1900’s. Starting his first growing venture in 1908 he was, by the time he died a legendary figure known for his innovative growing techniques, irrigation inventions and mobile glasshouses. In addition he was passionate about training and education and responsible for igniting a passion for horticulture to those he came into contact with. His great grandson Greg has carried on his tradition for growing and as well as supplying Secretts famous salad leaves to virtually every restaurant in the South East of England he also grows a huge range of speciality vegetables for many top London restaurants. On direct dial to many of London’s most feted chefs (I wouldn’t say no to his contacts list) his veg portfolio has true street credibility. The 100 acre farm whilst having a thriving wholesale business also grows for their own farm shop so while supply is seasonal; its food metres not miles here.

secretts_greg_kale

Entry into the EU in the 1970’s, industrial farming methods and supermarket buying methods all impacted on their original business model. The farm shop opened in 1979 as the family had to diversify their business. In the few years following they added a pick your own service where raspberries, strawberries, gooseberries, peas, beans and other English garden classics are available throughout the summer. Recent innovations include poly-tunnels with table top strawberries making them disabled friendly and wheelchair accessible, plus able bodied folk also find this more back friendly too.

secretts cheese of the month 6x9Entering the farm shop you are hit by the cheese counter a visual eye candy moment and a taste of what’s to come when you pass into the inner sanctum of food excellence. With over 200 varieties of cheese it’s beautifully managed by knowledgeable staff – ask for a sample or take advantage of featured cheeses. Membrillo, cheese honey and other complimentary treats top the counter and head on you’ll see the cheese biscuit selection. Thick Stockarns oatcakes, my favourites Peter’s Yard, Millers Charcoal damsels and other cheeseboard must haves are represented here.  To arrive at the deli section you are taken teasingly past the stunning array of biscuits and chocolate products from independents, artisans and bigger brands. Himalayan pink salt, chilli and lime the variety is endless. Past the cake decoration stand where I discovered Uncle Roy’s Commestible Concoctions for the first time (edible flower petals, crystallised rose and violets, marigold and cornflower)

secretts Uncle Roys

my cakes have never been better dressed. The large deli counter is heaving with pies, unusual scotch eggs (I spied onion bhaji last visit) quiches made on site plus free-range ham or salamis. Hillyers of Farncombe supply traditional bread and artisan sour doughs come from The Hungry Guest in Chichester and Farretti in Lodsworth.  Cakes are from Crosbies and Farmhouse Cookery, gluten free options from Mrs Crimbles (plus a free-from section with pasta and other staples).

secretts cheese9x6

 

The back wall is home to sauces, mustards, pesto’s and pickles while further on olives, oils, vinegars can be found. Cous-cous, basmati & Thai rice plus top quality pasta is next while a central island is home to help yourself olives, chillies and other pickled treats. Vintage food tins, designer napkins, cards and other and other gift shop items are also for sale.

Different from other farm shops, Secretts has a huge selection of meat, jams, preserves, herbs, spices, baked goods, and frozen food. There is a help-yourself ethos so you can buy herbs and spices by the gram, frozen berries by the kilo, or even frozen croissants.  A great selection of pre-packed spices from the Seasoned Pioneer, superb Lebanese pomegranate molasses and lots more gourmet ingredients for those dabbling in secretts turnocks6x9world cuisine can be picked up here.

Dotted around the shop are also foodie items that will get the memories flooding back! Tunnock’s retro packs of caramel chocolate treats and oddballs like Fry’s chocolate cream.

Arriving at the final section of the shop holds fresh meat from Black Barn (who also have a retail outlet just outside the farm shop) and the fresh produce section. Fresh ginger, garlic (smoked and regular), lemon grass just hint at the exotics. Grown metres from the shop the salad leaf selection and season permitting golden and red beetroot and carrots, cabbage, salsify, kale, leeks, & parsnips. Dotted in-between are bought in items that supplement own grown. It’s a heady display of local and imported produce.

secretts veg collage

This is more than just a farm shop it’s a family run business with a soulful history. Charles and Greg Secrett have adjusted to the challenges of our political food system and kept the business thriving. The tea room Eliza’s recently taken over by Butter and Cream cakes is brighter with a tasty contemporary menu, the award-winning butcher on site sells rare breeds and free range meats. Even the boutique prides itself on sourcing fair trade jewellery and other items to its stock.

butchers and cheese

Although this review is really about the farm shop this venue has so much more to offer;  and if like me you want to support independents, you’ll find that’s what on offer here is hard to beat.

Tel 01483 520500

www.secretts.co.uk

 

Noel’s Farm Shop

Sutton Green Garden Centre, Whitmoor Lane, Guildford Rd, Woking GU4 7QBnoel_portrait

A farm shop selling artisan products (some exclusive to the shop) and a great range of fresh produce and local meat.

The upside: Noel has to be one of the friendliest guys I know and will do anything (within reason) for his customers.

The downside: None here to report!

The flipside: An eclectic range of culinary treats for special occasions and ingredients to cook a whole family meal from scratch.

Noel Dobson arrived in Sutton Green Garden Centre four years ago and we are all the better for it. Fresh from a career as a care-home provider, he is embracing the world of food retailing to good effect. I visited when the shop first opened – a little early, maybe. Now the shop has expanded, the stock increased and he has a hard core following of local shoppers who love his helpful personality and range of fresh and packaged food on offer.

noel trio

 

This farm shop is part of a garden centre with land, so growing for the shop and pick your own is part of the bigger picture here. But this is also a shop where you can go and buy ingredients for cook-from-scratch meals. Free-range chicken, sausages, fresh vegetables, sauces and condiments are here for the taking! The provenance of the products makes this shop a local foodie destination as it stocks free-range eggs, local bacon and sour dough bread from the bread factory in London.

Noel ensures he buys provisions his customers want and his friendly personality is another draw. On my last visit we sampled lovely fresh apples just in from a farm in Sussex.

APPLES NOELS SHOP 9x6

Constantly looking for new products Noel listens to his customers and now has a comprehensive range of gluten free products.

Cheese from Surrey, Sussex and Kent form a great portfolio from local artisan producers. It was good to see Ellie’s goat cheeses alongside High Weald, Norbury Blue and Dunley Wood. Fresh meat, chicken and sausages are from local butcher, Wakeling’s.

The garden centre’s polytunnels supply fresh crops every morning during the growing season. Rhubarb, Swiss chard, salad onions and spinach were all in stock and had travelled around 400 metres to their selling point. Food miles may be less of an issue in the argument on climate change but veg is at its nutritional best when it has just been picked!

noels produce

This shop is a much needed resource in an area that is dominated by a large supermarket. It has a great location and ample parking: pop in and pick up a pint of milk or a loaf of fresh artisan bread but make sure you peruse the shelves – there are some real treats in store!

www.noelsfarmshop.co.uk

07908124603

Jacobs Well Country Market

Jacobs Well Village Hall, Nr Guildford, GU4 7PDJacobs_well_checkout_

Go there for: Freshly baked cakes, bread, savouries, pies, free-range local eggs, meat and cheese.

Avoid: Arriving late! Only open Friday from 10 -11.30 am, regulars snap up best buys fast.

Is it worth the calories?: A social enterprise that helps the smallest producers sell their wares – of course it is!

Tips: You can order goods in advance, including meat – remember it’s cash only.

This little community market is one of 350 in the UK and Channel Islands, including eleven in Surrey. Established in 1919 as a co-operative social enterprise, Country Markets provide a unique opportunity for individuals and small producers to sell their products locally.

Only open on Fridays between 10 and 11.30, Jacob’s Well Market is a complete treat. We found tables of home-baked cakes, breads and biscuits; savouries, including quiche, beetroot and goat’s cheese tarts and lentil tray-bakes; preserves, honey and chutneys; and culinary delights like bacon and cheese bread (heavenly toasted with butter). One lady runs a stall for award-winning local butcher Conisbee, another sells free-range eggs and cheese. In summer stall-holders sell the glut from their vegetable plots as well as plants and flowers. The stock here rightly changes with the seasons.

products on sale

On arrival you are furnished with a shopping sheet and a basket. Each time you select an item your form is updated and you pay at the cash desk. The market records all the sales and pays the vendors after removing their ten percent. A small stall in North Street market in Guildford will cost you £60 a day. This community marketplace charges a nominal membership fee of just 5p a year. To bag a stall you have to join the waiting list and bring something that other traders aren’t already selling.

Jacobs_well_products

There’s a craft market too: we found beautifully sewn babies’ bonnets, toys and greeting cards. Everything is homemade and unique – an experience that cannot be replicated on the high street.

crafts for sale

Country Markets offer a low-key but essential outlet for people who want to make a few items to sell once a week. They provide camaraderie, a modest income and a way of making a contribution to the community.

If you need an antidote to chain-store shopping, check out your local market – knowing the money you spend goes straight in the producer’s pocket.

www.jwcountrymkt.free-online.co.uk

National Country Markets 01246 261508

www.country-markets.co.uk

The Olive Tree

The Olive Tree, Sutton Green Road, Sutton Green, Surrey, GU4 7QDOlive Tree interior

A haven of comfort and good food just a short drive from Guildford

Go there for: Local meat and fresh seafood in the stylish dining room or bar food on comfy sofas around an open fire.

Avoid: Vegetarian options: not always a good choice here.

Is it worth the calories?: The desserts are excellent so consider raising the bar on your recommended daily intake.

Tips:  Close to Guildford with a decent car park and good food, this pub is popular so book at weekends.

Stepping into this pub is like visiting a friend who really knows how to accent their home. It’s comfortable, welcoming and professionally run. In addition to a full bar and a la carte menu they offer bowls of olives and nuts (from Olives et al) to complement their carefully selected drinks catalogue – what a great idea.

This is Gill and Rupert Ponsonby’s third pub in Surrey and they feel they have made their mark here. Rupert heads up the kitchen and Gill manages front of house. Food can be ordered from the dining room à la carte menu or from a less formal blackboard with daily specials. They source their meat locally and fish comes in daily. They like to follow the seasons and game was just about to hit the menu. Rupert said regulars often order lobster and seafood platters for two in advance. A sharing platter of mixed shellfish including scallops, lobster and prawns is £40.80; the Côtes de Boeuf, a double rib of beef with trimmings, is £45.00. A beef platter arrived for our neighbours: impressive, but what a lot of food!

I was a little surprised when my grilled lamb and Greek salad (£14.95) arrived: the generous pile of meat had been unceremoniously plonked on top of the salad leaves. As this was served in a bowl I would have expected the lamb to be more thinly sliced.

Lamb salad, blueberry and lemon cheesecake and fishcakes

However, the meat was tender and delicious (although a little awkward to cut) and the salad with feta a great match. The salmon fishcakes (£10.50) were a hit, with the right balance of mash to the fresh pink salmon and the chunky chips piping hot and crisp. The blueberry and lemon cheesecake (£5.80) was creamy and intensely citrusy, balanced by the fruitiness of the blueberries; a swish of cream gave just enough moisture for the perfect mouthful.

On a return visit we sampled a steak with salad (£14.95) and a vegetarian dish. The steak was tender, tasty and faultless and the salad fresh and well dressed.  However the cashew-nut roast from the blackboard menu had huge potential but was distinctly underwhelming. It was served with roasted vegetables on a gorgeous orange red pepper sauce but the roast was modest in size and lacked both personality and cashew nuts. It just wasn’t great and at £10.50 a bit cheeky. Luckily we had room for pudding. The fresh red-plum crumble with vanilla ice-cream (£5.80) tasted of late summer, was comforting, warming and redeemed our spirits. It was a Greg Wallace moment: he would have loved it too.

Steak, plum crumble and smoked haddock risotto

The couple on the next table were tucking into a smoked haddock risotto and beef stroganoff. They had just moved to Guildford and found the pub by chance. They thought their food was delicious and we agreed that that the pub, the setting and food are good enough for a return visit.

The Olive Tree

01483 729999

Text and Images Shirlee
Text and Images Shirlee
Rosewater and pistachio cake

The Tea Shop at Watts Gallery

Minestrone soup with warm breadDown Lane, Compton, Guildford, Surrey, GU3 1DQ

A delightful café in the old pottery on the North Down’s Way with a changing seasonal menu.

Go there for: Scrumptious English nursery classics like Welsh rarebit and generous slices of home-baked cakes.

Avoid: Mondays – they’re shut (and on Tuesdays after a bank holiday weekend).

Is it worth the calories?: Heart-warming soups and salads complement the house specials of rarebits and cakes. Indulging is fine – especially if you walk to the chapel!

Tips: A great stop on the North Downs Way for walkers and bikers – or visit the gallery or astonishing chapel.

This charming eatery is in the grounds of the gallery that celebrates the work of the renowned Victorian artist Frederic Watts. Established 25 years ago, the tea shop was given a facelift when it was taken over by the gallery in 2009.

New manager Agnieszka Czabak started in 2012 and keeps the front of house moving at a crisp pace, tables are cleared efficiently and orders taken swiftly. Head chef Aly Breakwell’s cooking is creative, homely and extremely good. The menu is temporarily smaller than before and the café’s famous rarebits (from £4.95) are on the specials board.

A new menu is about to be launched and Aly has been testing innovative dishes like confit of duck and cabbage leaves stuffed with barley, walnuts, sultanas and dill. Buying local foods where possible is high on the agenda here and drinks such as cider are sourced locally. They also use an ethically sourced coffee and have their own blend of ‘Potters tea”.

Butternut squash and feta tart, table flowers and chicken and mango sandwich

I was sad the celeriac soup with walnut and parsley pesto had run out but the minestrone was thick and hearty, using barley and red kidney beans instead of pasta (£5.50). Packed with vegetables and garnished with fresh Pear & custard tart with cinnamon and clotted cream herbs and local rapeseed oil, it was the best I’ve had in a long while. My daughter ordered a grilled chicken and mango sandwich on white bread (£5.50) the chicken succulent and the mango delivered a  tangy sweet finish . My butternut squash and goat’s cheese tart (£7.50) had crisp thin pastry, the squash was soft and buttery, and the cheese added a deliciously salty kick. It came with a generous selection of salads. There is also a pudding on the specials board each day and we sampled a complimentary slither of pear and custard tart with cinnamon, clotted cream and toasted walnuts, it was gorgeous (£5.25).

Aly said they can’t bake enough cakes on site to meet demand but she does as many as possible. On display was a handsome Victoria sponge, a coffee and walnut and a gluten-free chocolate all at £3.00 a generous slice. But what caught our eye was a spectacular rosewater and pistachio cake; a creamy sponge topped with rose-scented icing and a sprinkle of pistachio and rose petals – and it’s gluten free. It lived up to its enticing exterior and was meltingly light and delicate.

Rosewater and pistachio cake

The tea house has big plans for the future, with an extension to the café planned for spring 2013. Aly is keen to add more vegetarian options and experimental specials to the new menu. The cooking we sampled was great, so expect good things here in the future.

www.wattsgallery.org.uk

Phone:01483 813590