Category Archives: Reviews

Bada Tapas

Small plates of expertly created Korean fusion food are dispatched in style at Bada Tapas in a quiet side street in the heart of Godalming. Match this with impeccable service, friendly staff and a beautifully managed menu.

If you love Asian flavours, sharing plates and an altogether different dining style then this eatery is for you. Many of the dishes also have a seriously healthy vibe and the presentation is delightful. Think edible flowers, micro-leaves and delicately placed squirts of delicious flavour catapulting sauces.

Having lived in Asia for many years I grieved the lack of pan Asian dining when I returned home in 2005. I loved the fact that in Asian Cities like Singapore and Taipei you could find a great selection of fusion dining options that gave you amazing Asian cuisine but the setting of a more relaxed dining experience. I love street food but sometimes you want more than a small red plastic stool, floodlights and a melamine table to make your meal more of an occasion. This finally fills the gap here for me.

I saw Bada Tapas on instagram and I have followed them since they opened and was immediately intrigued by the idea of a tapas bar based around Korean cuisine but was not quite sure of the concept. I cannot for the life of me understand why it took me so long to visit but I am so very glad we did. In August this year I was looking for a light dinner and booked a table. From the minute we stepped in we were taken with the décor, layout, drinks menu and service. Water arrived immediately (infused with cucumber, lemon and fresh mint) drinks order taken and dispatched. Drinks served we are then taken on a swift tour around the restaurant concept by native Korean and owner Jihyun Kim who created and holds the concept together.

Jihyun came to the UK in 2005 to learn English at a language school in Central London after completing a degree in interior design back home. Living in Clapham she got a job in a Chinese restaurant to help pay for her stay. After two years she had planned to return home to South Korea and found she just was not ready to leave. Having mastered English she got a job at Habitat in the Kings Road in sales. By this time and pivotal to her story her relationship had become serious with her boyfriend and they decided to tie the knot. She had met her now husband Michal while working at the Chinese restaurant and in the meantime he had started working with a wholesale fish company who bought their stock from Billingsgate Market and distributed to restaurants and fish shops outside London and in particular in Surrey. When the Godalming fish shop one of his wholesale customers came up for sale Michal decided to take it on. It gave the couple a chance to move out of London too. One of the fish shops customers was a Spanish Tapas bar in Queen Street who had decided to close so the business was up for a new owner and Bada was born.

With no family history of the hospitality trade Jihyun and her husband decided to stick with the restaurants current theme of small plates but give it an Asian Fusion Twist. In Korea Jihyun explained,  families eat together with sharing plates so it was a concept that she understood. They also knew how a restaurant worked because of their experience together in London. Korean food has a lot of seafood and fish dishes integral to it so with Michal supplying the business they would have a fantastic advantage for many of their dishes. With Jihyun’s knowledge of interior design they managed to create a really stylish dining room from their small budget. They named the business Bada,  the Korean word for sea since so many of the dishes were based around fresh fish.

Now lets talk about the food, firstly the menu is based on tapas (small plates) so it’s a place to come and share if you want to. I have been to restaurants with friends who don’t like to do this and that would work equally well here too. The main printed menu is supported by seasonal specials on the blackboard. Specials are usually a fish, meat and vegetarian dish. The main menu is split into three sections with snack items appearing first. From more recognisable edamame beans (young green soybeans) steamed and served with a sprinkle of sea salt £4 to crisp lotus root crisps £4.50 or a plate of fresh rock oysters at £6 for 12.

The sharing plates menu (tapas) is split between fish, meat and poultry and vegetarian. For me the fish is the reason to come here. The freshest organic Scottish salmon marinated in teriyaki sauce is cooked to perfection and served with some al dente sugar snap peas £9 and from the specials board a fillet of sea bass on a green curry sauce £10. What sets these dishes apart is the super fresh fish which is beautifully executed in the kitchen. Presentation is faultless and it’s clear that Jihyun and her team really care about the food they serve plus it’s consistently good. Other specials might include gyoza style dumplings filled with slow cooked beef shin and a beetroot and wasabi sauce (gorgeous) £10 or roasted blue skin pumpkin with a satay sauce £9 satisfyingly spicy with a creamy finish. Going back to the main menu the pan fried scallops with a signature sauce £10 are not to be missed; served plump, tender and perfectly seasoned or the bulgogi and classic Korean dish of marinated beef in soy with carrots and mushrooms served in a lettuce leaf to pick up and eat £8.50. From the vegetarian side of the menu choose kimchi pancake or vegetable dumplings both £7.50 among a mouthwatering range of meat free options.

For accompaniments add sticky rice £4 or sweet potato fries £5.50 for fillers or soy cooked quails eggs £5, kimchi £4 or summer rolls £7, perfect if you are avoiding carbs. Taking younger people with you? then mention they have chicken katsu on the menu too at £7 and they’ll hop on board.

The drinks menu here is also carefully chosen. You’ll find familiar wines alongside Korean classics (rice wines and sake) there are no western style wines produced in Korea yet but that might change. Add a really interesting cocktail list with wasabi cucumber martini or a chili margarita. The Bada colada sounds intriguing too; a mix of rice wine with rum, pineapple juice and coconut all at £11 or choose from the Mocktail list at £5.50. Although I am a big fan of local a Japanese gin garnished with fresh ginger or Kombucha a slightly sparkling fermented tea also appeal.

There is a small dessert menu which is definitely worth your perusal. Their berry crème brulee is perfect. Creamy, but not over sweet and topped with a layer of fruit puree. Beautifully presented,  this dessert and all the food here is instagram perfection. Other puddings include adzuki bean (red bean) chocolate brownie with dark chocolate and dates. Very trendy ingredients plus its gluten free both at £6.50. You could also opt for Korean pancakes with peanuts. Fresh mint tea or barista coffees are also on offer to finish.

This is a restaurant that should definitely be on your radar. Everything here is prepared freshly from scratch and cooked to order apart from dishes like the slow cooked pork (delicious). This is a rare treat in a climate where high street chains dominate the casual dining scene. Go and support this feisty independent for its innovative menu and focus on serving superbly prepared fresh food.

Bada Tapas

10 Queen Street
Godalming
Surrey GU7 1BD

01483 527526

www.badatapas.co.uk

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Duke of Wellington East Horsley

A re-imagined gastro pub with a creative menu and wine list, fantastic service and stylish décor, just a ten minute drive from Guildford. Expect delicious food, regular events such as live music, themed dinners and local socials for neighbours.

When I was invited to try the menu at this pub, which is part of the Peach Group I didn’t hesitate. With just two pubs in their growing collection in Surrey their portfolio includes another eighteen (many of them recently acquired) and all in market towns such as Oxford, Warwick and Birmingham. The other Surrey location is The Richard Onslow in Cranleigh, and it’s a favourite of mine .

Since I have lived in Guildford this pub had been crying out for new lease of life. It was a pretty run down and then it was reinvented with a BBQ themed menu. Poor reviews and a very American BBQ menu kept most of us away. Then in 2016 Peach took over. This is a business with a solid understanding of what ingredients you need to make a pub successful. They set to work and with a refurbished interior, creative menu with a mix of traditional and contemporary dishes on the seasonal menu and customers started to roll back in. Add to this a mix of local and imported beers, wines, spirits and real ales and the customer magnet has been switched back on.

What really sets this business aside is the staff, welcoming, helpful and professional its a totally refreshing element of the on site experience. In addition they all seem to really enjoy their jobs in an industry that is well known for long hours and low pay. Its no surprise that out of the ten awards on their website that five are for their employment practices. The Sunday Times ranked them at forty-five in their top 100 companies to work for last year.

The food here is fresh, beautifully presented from ingredients sourced locally and nationally. Head Chef Nic Baba embraces the seasons and although I ate from the spring menu the current summer menu ticks all the boxes too. They share the same core values of healthy eating (an important ethos on the menu) so expect to find plenty of fresh vegetables with your meal too. Sharing boards, hearty salads, extras to add to customise your plate and daily specials form the menu style here. Meat is from top butchers Aubrey Allen who also supply free-range chicken, Cornish lamb and free-range pork from Jimmy Butler. Known as the butcher to the stars you know that poultry, beef and pork here is going to be top notch.

We kicked off our meal with a modern take on a retro prawn cocktail and some ham croquettes served with a spiced tomato chutney. The cocktail was layered for effect and the combination of guacamole, prawns, tomato salsa and crunchy lettuce paired with some crunchy tortilla was delicious (an idea I have since copied for entertaining). The croquettes arrived piping hot with a spicy tomato chutney and local Secretts salad leaves. Crunchy on the outside and creamy and smoky in the middle it was the perfect start to our meal. Mains included pan-fried sea bass on a generous stack of new potatoes and tender stem broccoli and a super food salad with a extra of poached salmon. The fish was fresh and crispy ( source from Brixham day boats) and the accompanying vegetables and sauce without fault. The salad had a deliciously lemony zingy dressing and the perfect balance of pulses, leaves and grated vegetables. No feeling there that you were a second rate diner by choosing a salad plate so this gets a high score in my book.

Deserts had to be the lemon tart, a staple on menus in the 1990’s and an intriguing apple panna cotta. The lemon tart had a caramelised top, which gave way to an intensely lemony creamy filling on a light short buttery pastry – stunning. The panna cotta was really unusual with an apple jelly layer on top of the cream element. Freshly poached apple was served as a garnish. It felt lighter and good for you than I would have expected which is always a plus. We ended with fresh mint tea.

The food here is excellent and a credit to the Peach Group for creating another venue in Surrey that should be on your go to list.

01483 282 312

Guildford RD, East Horsley, Leatherhead, KT24 6AA

www.dukeofwellingtoneasthorsley.co.uk

 

Natter Cafe

67 St. Johns Street. Farncombe, GU7 3EH

 An award winning cafe where owner Kay has created a wonderful eating and meeting space, for the local community.

The Upside: Gorgeous coffee, freshly prepared traditional all day breakfasts, contemporary salads, savouries and freshly baked cakes.

The downside: This café is so busy you need to book in advance to guarantee a lunchtime table. It’s closed in the evening but they do run events.

The flipside: Buy tickets for one of their infamous supper clubs where you can BYO and indulge in some great food at prices that won’t break the bank.

Natter café is the type of success story I would wish for any new independent starting up in this challenging market. Winner of the Muddy Stilettos best cafe in Surrey award I can tell you why this business is making waves!

Kay is the creative force behind the Natter Café and her story starts with coffee beans. Her original foray into coffee was stall in Guildford’s North Street Market which she started with a business partner in 2002. They parted company but the stall was very successful and its still at the market today. Kay’s passion for coffee retailing saw her start a coffee van service and a kiosk at Farncombe station. Her standards of service are legendary. Ring the kiosk from your mobile and they will have a latte and a bacon butty ready to pass to you on the platform as your train passes through.

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Adoring customers always asked Kay when she was going to open a café. It wasn’t she says really on her radar, but when friend and estate agent John suggested a property he had would be perfect for this purpose it was a defining moment. Going on holiday the next day she had time to think it through and the rest is history. Kay is really pleased she took the plunge. Its clear she has really invested in this business the premises have been refurbished to a high standard and the result is a really lovely comfortable space.

Coffee comes from a roaster in Winchester and Kay uses single origin estate for filter coffee, which is brewed at your table. You can choose from single or double shots (from £1.50). Teas are from Canton teas known for their delicious blends many of them from Taiwan (from £2.50).

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Food is also freshly prepared on site apart from some of the cakes, which are made by local producers. Since opening Kay has never had to advertise for staff. She has she says been lucky enough to have lots of locals (mums, students, teenagers) regularly popping in asking for work. In addition she also has lots of expert cake makers offering to supply her too! I expect the welcoming warm space Kay has created has everything to do with this.

Food is prepared by two chefs in a compact kitchen hence the need to buy in cakes but also because this café is always busy. Come late for lunch and expect to wait for a table. Kay and her team have the formula just right here. A core menu with breakfasts and sandwiches are complimented by seasonal specials. Expect soup in the winter and salads in the summer. A full English breakfast with local butcher Wakelings sausages is £8.75 and a generous plateful. For smaller people or appetites you can go for a half size portion at £5.75 (I wish more eateries did this). Smoked salmon bagels are also on offer at £5.00.

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Arriving for lunch I ordered a salad of the specials board. It was a warmish autumnal day so it was a toss up between that or roasted carrot and butternut squash soup. The salad won as my favourites were featured here; beetroot, rocket, pine nut and feta with salad leaves and a light tasty dressing. I have a pet hate of salad leaves served naked (read my article here) but these were perfectly dressed. My plus one had bacon muffins with melted brie and salad, which he said was tasty, light and gooey. I didn’t really get a look in there but I trust his judgement.

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We were too full for cakes but we did have coffee, which was full flavoured and served really hot. We watched the other customers around us being served equally good-looking plates of food.

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I love this café its got good coffee and food at its core. Kay supports other locals by procuring her stock from them wherever possible (produce from the local greengrocer and meat from Wakelings and Black Barn)  and she provides local employment too. Her staff recently for her birthday treated her to a day spa when she thought she was just going to work. I think that says it all!

Go and give Natter a whirl – opening hours and menu on the website- link below.

01483 421303
and also at Farncombe Station on Platform 1 GU7 3NF / 07531 018190

 

The Richard Onslow

The Richard Onslow, 113-117 High St, Cranleigh, GU6 8AU

An established dining room with a seriously creative menu from independent pub group Peach.

The upside: A gastro-pub with a outstanding unique menu which wanders outside the norm!

The downside: Struggling here….

The flipside: Top marks for energetic creative management!

When I was contacted by the PR company representing the Richard Onslow asking if I would like sample their new summer menu I immediately agreed. My review policy is one I stick to but I had already given the thumbs up to this pub in 2013 so a return visit was long overdue.

I had heard that founding manager John Taylor who is credited with putting this pub firmly on Surrey’s culinary map was leaving for pastures new. What a legacy he has left behind; management team that looked after me on the day I visited were high energy, well informed, slick and personable. Having studied the Peach Pubs website before I visited it seemed that they were exactly what they say they are, professional, dedicated, fun loving and food-centric.

mike scott chef richard onslowTerri the Manager told me that each of the 18 pubs in this group are allowed to keep their individual personalities and each chef has menu autonomy aside from five classics that each pub menu carries. They are careful to keep the ethos of each venue in keeping with their location make sure that passing trade and locals are catered for with equal attention. The new menu I was there to sample was a collaboration of the in house chefs and development chef Mike Scott.

I had been invited to review the new summer menu and at the time of writing I feel guilty that a month has passed since visiting. The menu will run until September and I am sure that after my delightful experience the replacement will be just as good. My plus one was my teenage son (aged 15) who was doing one of his work experience weeks with me. He told me the other day that he preferred the week he did with the Yvonne Arnaud Theatre (not surprisingly) but that lunch at the Richard Onslow had been a highlight of his week with me.

The Richard Onslow in Cranleigh, Surrey.

On arrival we were seated in their delightful dining room, which has a mixture of comfy sofas, dining chairs, round, square and oblong tables. This I like, as depending on the size of your party, you can choose a format that suits you. It’s a stylish light room with subtle decor a contemporary edge and a relaxed vibe.

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The summer menu has some really interesting plates. It’s a refreshing compilation featuring summery seasonal ingredients and current food trends. For starters we chose free-range ham and cheddar croquettes with garlic aioli and Secretts watercress £7.25 and a spring onion and pea Scotch egg with pesto mayonnaise (£6.75). My son devoured his croquettes, which were crunchy, rich and cheesy. Dipping the croquettes into the aioli with a fork of watercress gave a perfect balance of flavours. My Scotch egg had a high scoring soft centre. The Scotch egg on its own was well seasoned but adding the pesto mayonnaise lifted the flavour profile from great to gorgeous. The chef was keen for us to sample his favourite starter from the menu, which was a stunner. Pan-fried scallops and monkfish with Bombay potatoes and Indian salad (£9.75 starter/£19.95 main) was a riot of ingredients. Plump fresh succulent scallops and monkfish with a backdrop of a Bhel Poori house style salad from London’s famous Drummond Street; if you have never been there do! Its a London institution. This was actually one of the most innovative dishes I have had in a while and it worked so well. I like risky cooking and this was a great example.

richard onslow starter trio

Onto the mains my teenage companion predictably chose sausages and mash from the specials board whilst I went for sea bass with saffron potatoes, mussels and clam chowder (£17.00). My son wolfed his dinner down and I savoured my dish. Crispy skin fish twinned with a creamy seafood chowder which was comforting but not overly rich. The fish and seafood were super fresh too suggesting a hint of the Mediterranean in Cranleigh (indulge me it was a sunny day). We ordered a dish of peas, courgette and beans which were sautéed in butter and simply gorgeous and a generous portion too. It was lunchtime and I was driving but I did notice that the wine list is comprehensive and priced to satisfy any budget with a few local English wines listed too.

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The dessert menu included a vegan peanut butter and chocolate brownie made with Valrhona chocolate which can be served with sorbet if requested (£5.75) My chocoholic son had his with Jude’s vanilla ice-cream. The brownie was not oversweet (as is often the case) so a perfect partner to ice-cream. Served warm it was light in texture with an intense chocolate note and a nutty finish. My choice in complete contrast was grilled peach served with biscotti and Chantilly cream. I felt the biscotti here were a little large but this may have been because the portions here are generous and we had eaten really well. The Chantilly cream was delicious and the plate looked and tasted fantastic.

desserts trio

I finished with a pot of mint tea and development Chef Mike Scott came for a chat. Full of enthusiasm and clearly enjoying his job he echoed the ethos of Peach pubs which had been so eloquently described by his colleague Terri. We had had a terrific lunch served by energetic, well-informed and happy staff so I wasn’t surprised to discover that the company had won Best Employer in the 2015 Hospitality Awards.

They seem to have it all here and its delightful to find that this venue seems to have improved since my last review visit (its often the reverse). I also like the fact that they have a good mix of buying local where they can (bread from the craft baker across the road ) and salad leaves from Secretts in Milford, plan menus to the seasons and really care about the provenance too.

I am already planning a return visit and feel justified in giving this venue a big thumbs up.

Tel 01483 274922

www.therichardonslow.co.uk

Jam Packed Preserves

Gorgeous thick fruit and vegetable packed jars of preserves from a true cottage industry in Surrey.

The upside: A huge range of lovingly prepared jams, marmalades, jellies and chutneys made by hand the old fashioned way.

The downside: Only on sale in a few outlets and charity events

The flipside: With a new website and online shop launching soon sourcing will become easy peasy!

In the artisan food world there are many different styles of producers. Some who produce from their own kitchens with little or no start up budget or investment and others who have investors, industrial units and can afford branding and marketing. Some companies of course have a bit of both. I am comfortable with any of these options providing the eating quality and provenance of the products is top notch. Like a lot of my new connections my introduction to Jam Packed Preserves came via twitter. I follow a food consultant and food product guru Tessa Stuart who sent me a link to Jam Packed as they are based in Surrey. She has written two extremely digestible and informative books for wannabe food producers (Packed and Flying off the Shelves), which are best sellers. Her pedigree comes from her time working with top companies such as the Innocent Smoothie Brand. So with a recommendation to link up I happily took the bait.

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I went to visit Sue and Kevin Woodward at their headquarters in Epsom to record their story. I had already had a chat to Sue before my visit so I knew that she and her husband had careers in the NHS, but Kevin had retired from his role working a senior clinician in operating theatres two years ago. Sue continues to work in nurse education. Alongside a very full on life they had taken on an allotment 8 yrs ago and an inherited a vigorous bed of autumn fruiting raspberries. Realising they couldn’t possibly consume all this fruit themselves Sue rang her mum up for her jam recipe. As the season moved blackcurrants and redcurrants became available they kept making more and more jam. Selling and giving surplus to friends the beginning of what later became ‘Jam Packed’ emerged.

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It didn’t take long for the jam-making bug to bite and they expanded to jellies and chutneys too. They decided to sell their surplus stock and their first commercial deal was with a local butcher who took their products. He recorded how much he sold and Sue and Kevin got their meat from him in return. This is great example of good old fashioned bartering and something my clients know I am not averse to either. Friends also became regular customers and loved their products so much they encouraged them to take tables at local fund raising events. In fact Sue and Kevin prefer to attend fund-raisers with their products rather than farmers markets as they can support charities while they are selling.

Having had a break from jam making to complete and submit her PhD in 2012, the couple also became carers for their first grandchild two year ago and decided to build a business making preserves around this. So while they have been slowly building up their business over the past few years they now want to take things to the next level. Not that they have been slouching since 2014. You can buy their products from several local independent farm shops, delis and tea rooms throughout Surrey and into Hampshire. In addition they are also sold at West Green Fruit Farm where they have been producing jam from the fruit grown for a couple of years (sold on site in the PYO).

What I really like here is that Sue and Kevin pick a lot of the fruit they use for their jams themselves from their own allotment, garden, farms, friends gardens and contacts they have made along the way. Many of whom are now customers. This is a sustainable model, which also takes advantage of fruit grown that would not otherwise be harvested. In addition they know exactly where their fruit comes from and that it’s local (apart from Seville oranges and lemon for marmalade).

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Provenance and sustainability are all good market hooks but what about taste? I am the first to admit that the jam and chutney market is congested to say the least. All food retailers love products with a long shelf life and that’s exactly what you get with this style of preserving. Consequently it’s also why lots of producers enter the market and why farm shops are stacked high with jars of curious and better-known concoctions. Interestingly when I went to visit Jam Packed I was thinking ‘not another jam producer’ but I was pleasantly surprised. Here is why they are different.

In addition to the usual jams (such as raspberry and blackcurrant) Jam Packed also produce a range of jams from hybrid fruits such as tummelberries (similar to tayberries) and chuckleberries (a cross between a blackcurrant a redcurrant and a gooseberry) giving this particular jam an interesting texture. Adding silvanberries, boysenberries and loganberries to the mix and I am starting to get very interested. We carried out a tasting session and all of these jams as the company name suggests are made with a high fruit to sugar ratio and it stands out in the fiercely fruity flavours each with its own personality. This duo also makes a range of marmalades (all with hand cut peel) and Seville orange jelly. The jelly looks as glorious as it tastes and I have my fingers crossed that one might come home with me (it does) as I can imagine it immediately as a glaze on duck breast or as part of a chocolate and orange mousse.

Kevin has also become a master of chili-based jams, jellies and chutneys where they have won awards for their products in annual The Chutney Awards. Jam-packed, has for a small artisan producer a great range of seasonal products some of which are fiercely traditional and others more contemporary in style. Recently added lines include Naga Chili jam and chutney made with real ale from Surrey Brewery Hog’s Back.

You also have to applaud their marketing style which includes supporting charity events by taking tables at local fetes and fairs rather than farmers markets is endearing to say the least.

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If you would like to sample their products first hand they have a list of stockists on their new website, an online shop for retailers and for sale direct to the public. Sue and Kevin are also happy to come and do meet the producer events and tastings to share their delicious hand crafted products. If you are a fan of the local food movement look out for this brand as they really are ‘hand stirred’ in Surrey.

www.jampackedpreserves.co.uk

Sue Woodward 07941932529

Some of the images taken for this post were taken by Ben de Montagnac whose company WBYW have also built the new Jam Packed Website.

Grass Roots Bakery

A new start up producing fantastic gluten free rolls and bread mixes from a bespoke craft bakery in Surrey

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The upside: Great tasting gluten and dairy free bread which is also preservative free.

The downside: Limited shelf life once baked (but freezes well)

The flipside: A credible textured bread for those seeking 100% gluten free product

When Noels Farm Shop (at Sutton Green Garden Centre) started to sell Grass Roots gluten free bread rolls late in 2015 Noel was keen to share how good they were. Unlike many gluten free bread products on the market the rolls looked great and clearly had texture. Produced just a few miles down the road in a small industrial estate in Woking I popped over to meet the owner and view the bread in production.

Andrea Walsh trained as a bio-chemist having taken a degree in chemistry. This has been essential to her success in this bakery venture and her ability to create a brilliant product and comply with food regulations in the sensitive area of free-from foods. Andrea’s business partner is her husband Steve an inventor of electrical products. The bakery is based within his lab where they created a bespoke sealed production space with brand new equipment. This means that they can be 100% confident that all their products are totally gluten free. This for people who suffer from gluten intolerance or coeliac disease is the reassurance they need. For some people just a small amount of contamination from gluten can have a devastating affects on their health. To find a product that is made in a totally wheat free zone is a real find.

As a family, Andrea and her children are gluten intolerant. Fed up with pappy dry and tasteless bread Andrea decided to make her own. With her science background she was able to replicate the characteristics of traditional bread from a range of gluten free ingredients. A few months of experimenting with different recipes Andrea fine-tuned her recipe. Sampling her new bread with friends they all raved about how good it was and her family loved it too. With such great feedback she decided to share this with others and so the Grass Roots Bakery was born.

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Launching the bakery very quietly in June 2015 Andrea sold her bread to a farm shop near Woking where owner Noel had realised that there was a demand for gluten free products and was keen to stock the rolls. Unlike commercially produced gluten free bread (with preservatives) Andrea uses a natural approach to baking and the rolls have only 2 days life from production. Actually when you toast or warm through in the oven even from 3-4 days they are still really delicious but not at their best. However the rolls do freeze really well so freezing what you don’t use straight away is a perfect solution.

I wanted to see the bread in production so in the true spirit of HACCP (Hazard Analysis Critical Control Points) we got changed into kitchen whites, put on hairnets (not a great look for me) and went into the bakery. First off its clear how incredibly clean the bakery is with brand new equipment and clearly a meticulous standard of hygiene. Andrea had already weighed out her secret recipe flour and then added oil, water and eggs. Using a giant electric whisk the dough is worked until a soft moist mixture has formed. As there is no gluten involved here it doesn’t need the classic ten-minute work out on the proteins to form the dough. It’s also noticeable that this dough is wetter than one that is wheat based which makes it difficult to handle.

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With an inventor for a husband Steve created the perfect solution. Using his electronic skill set he created a device that sucks up the right amount of dough for each roll which can then be deposited on to the baking sheet to rise. This means the rolls are all slightly different shapes; which adds a certain Wallis and Gromit charm to the process. As the dough is wetter and the rolls are large they take around one hour to bake in a medium oven. Unfortunately I wasn’t able to stay that long but in any case Andrea had already sent me some rolls to try so I knew how good they were.

With a product life of two days it was clear to Andrea that this was going to be an issue for retailers who like a longer shelf life. Her solution was to sell to shops but also offer a bread mix too. All Grass Roots products are available online from the bakery and include white and high fibre rolls in packs of four or twelve and bread mixes. The bread mixes are also sold in two sizes.

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Andrea has gone for a soft launch but is hoping to sell her products via farm shops, delis and specialist food shops. To give her products the credibility they need in the free-from market Andrea has spent time making sure her products are safe for her intended user group. Just recently she has received accreditation from Coeliac UK which, for those with gluten intolerance and coeliac disease is a recognised and trusted seal of approval.

I meet a lot of people on my travels in Surrey and in Andrea you couldn’t meet a nicer and more dedicated grass roots bakerybaker. I love her scientific approach, which has helped enormously in the creation of a great product range. The gluten free bread market is a tough nut to crack but they have definitely created a winning formula here.

www.grassrootsbakery.co.uk

01483 730474

A Night of Food & Agony with Jay Rayner!

Jazz & Comedy

If you have been following my blog for a while you know that I only write about things I really like. I sometimes get invited by PR companies to review restaurants and I am always totally honest with them. Yes, I am happy to go as your guest; but if I don’t think its worth a review it won’t get one. If I do go as a guest and write about it I always make it clear in my reviews too! I only publish positive reviews which means my site is less content rich than it could be plus it’s cost me a small fortune.  Sometimes I wish I was Jay Rayner as I believe passionately that if you open a business and invite people off the street to come in a pay for what you offer it had better be fantastic. And quite rightly the more you charge for it, the satisfaction level, should go up on a sliding scale. I have learnt to be disappointed and love the eureka times more because of it. I choose not to write negative reviews but Jay Rayner has made a career out of it. In fact is seems the more scathing and totally brutal they are the more they are revered.

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Last week I was contacted by the agents representing Jay Rayner who in addition to writing some of the funniest, observant and cutting restaurant reviews you’ll ever read is also a jazz musician! His latest tour combines his musings as a restaurant reviewer with a performance by him and his jazz band playing a food themed 60 minute set. The reviews of his band and the fact that he has just played his first gig and legendary Ronnie Scotts in Soho to great acclaim make this a guaranteed great night out. Would I be interested in writing a blog post to help promote his latest tour for a couple of tickets they said. I thought about it for a millisecond,  You see I am one of his biggest (actually at just a fraction over five foot one of his smallest) fans. I had missed his last event in Surrey at Farnham Malting’s last year to go to a pop up supper club (which was fantastic) so seeing him was on my bucket list.

Jay Rayner is my kind of writer, bold, brash and totally honest.  I wish I had the same wit, energy, humour and ferocity of language that he applies to every review he writes. I love the way he starts a review by setting a scene before getting down to the nitty gritty. His recent list of the 12 worst things that restaurants do were pretty close to mine too! Particularly his observation that the bill is always given to the man if you are out as a couple. I often buy my husband dinner after all he pays most of the bills and is currently carrying the burden of our daughter’s university adventure. When the waiter/waitress heads for my man I wish I had the courage to say;

 “don’t you ever, ever, ever again give the bill to the only person on the table who happens to possess testicles. You have no idea who’s paying for dinner. Put the bill in the middle of that table and walk away” 

This latest tour kicks off on the 23rd January in Wavendon and is in Surrey for one night at the Rose Theatre in Kingston on the 23rd February 2016.

jay rayner event 1

Tea

56 High Road, Reigate, RH2 9ATcarolynne migh tea

The upside: One of the most interesting loose-leaf tea menus in Surrey!

The downside: Closed on Sundays

The flipside: A lovely independent selling a menu that embraces single blend teas with locally produced food

This café is as its name suggests is all about tea. Carolynne Farrer (a former HR specialist) always dreamed of owning her own tea business. Made redundant a few years ago she chatted with her sister about her idea. Convinced she was all talk her sister remarked that she would never actually do it. This was the challenge that Carolynne needed and TEA is now 1 year old.

Located in historical Reigate, on the High Road the interior has been playfully created to give a vintage retro feel. The counter is painted red and decorated with old knitting patterns. These are so evocative to me of childhood especially if you had a knitting crazy granny like me.

Tea Reigate kintting patterns

Here you will find that all aspects of the small but delightful menu have been carefully devised. The kitchen is very small so the menu reflects this. Tea (some organic) Organic coffee (from Beanberry) and proper hot chocolate dominate the drinks menu. On the food side its doorstop sandwiches featuring local cheeses. High Weald for Sister Sarah goats cheese and Sussex Charmer from Bookhams are just 2 examples.

Tea is the specialty here so I chose a pot of Chinese Jasmine Silver Needle. All teas are loose-leaf and placed intotea at migh tea an unbleached filter to brew. Each variety needs different times to infuse so are served with a timer and brew time advice. You can find a full description of all the teas on the website but staff here are keen to share their knowledge and discuss options. Tea comes from an independent tea merchant in Winchester who share their knowledge and passion for this unique drink with Carolynne. The tea menu is divided into normal (£2), special (£2.50) and superior (£3.75) for a generous pot. My tea was deliciously aromatic and soothingly smooth to drink.

To eat I selected a Welsh Rarebit made with one of my favourite cheeses Sussex Charmer (£3.75). The cheese here is combined with herb mustard and Worcester sauce and was deliciously satisfying. Bread is from the Chalet Bakery an independent business in Tadworth. My companion Sarah from ‘Little Spice’ had a doorstep sandwich with Sister Sarah goats cheese. This was served with a salad garnish and vegetable crisps (£5.25). The sandwich menu changes weekly featuring local produced ingredients. Other menu items include home-made soup (changing daily) with bread (£4.75) or a Ploughmans served with pickles, local fruit chutney and oatcakes (£6.75). Generous portions make this a value for money destination too!

food trio sandwiches

tea timer_migh tea

To finish Sarah chose a pot of Organic coffee and a rich chocolate brownie. So although this is a tea room coffee drinkers won’t be disappointed served in a cafetiere (my favourite style) as Carolynne didn’t want the aroma of coffee to dominate the venue. With coffee you get to choose your roast too! I had a slice of gluten free orange and polenta cake. It was rich, moist and intensely orangey. Made by a local baker the cakes change during the week and are displayed tantalisingly under glass cake stands (£2-£3.50) .

cake trio

If you like me get mightily fed up with predictable high street chains, Tea in Reigate will give you a refreshingly different experience.board outside shopFresh locally produced food, fabulous tea menu and lovely people, it is well worth a visit.

www.migh-tea.com

For high tea reservations call 01737246251

Thanks to Sarah from ‘Little Spice’ for introducing me to this great tea-house!

Simply Scones Tea Room & Walled Garden Shop

The Grange Centre, Rectory Lane, Great Bookham, Leatherhead, Surrey KT23 4DZ

Cream teas, yummy fudge and home grown produce for sale!

The upside: A changing menu of innovative scones and proper pots of tea!

The downside: The tea-room is only open on Tuesdays.

The flipside: Having tea here is a real treat with the added bonus of visiting the Walled Garden Shop too!

Sitting in an ornate Victorian conservatory sipping fresh brewed tea accompanied by a freshly baked scone, home-made berry jam from the garden with a dollop of fresh cream is my idea of work. Even the freak hail storm rattling onto the glass roof couldn’t dampen the feel good aura of the afternoon. It was pure chance that I was introduced to this tea room and confirms the ethos of my blog that some of the best places to eat out in Surrey are hidden away and definitely not on the high street!

Going to an annual social media event in Guildford each year to update my skill set is also a great networking opportunity. This year was no exception as it was here that I met the Grange marketing manager Gill Caldwell who thought I might be interested in how food education is used to help residents at her workplace learn valuable life skills. Open to the public for just one afternoon a week she invited me to ‘Simply Scones’ a pop-up tea room set up and run by residents with disabilities. Under the guidance of support staff, residents learn a range of food service and productions skills. So here everything is made fresh on the day apart from the jam! However this is made with fruit grown in their acre walled garden which also houses a shop. In season you can buy fruit, vegetables, garden plants and even their own honey. Running these enterprises provides much needed confidence-building and self-esteem raising experiences. In turn this enables for many, future employment opportunities.

grange flowers and produce

During tea I learnt more about The Grange and its fascinating story. Set up in 1927 by a pioneer of training provision for the disabled Julia Sweet (originally for nurses injured during the first world war to continue to earn a living) as the School of Stitchery and Lace in Leicestershire. The charity moved to its current home in Bookham in 1938. While needlework and crafts skills are taught here the charity has modernised and developed into an educational centre for men and women living with disabilities. Whilst the activities of the original charity has a more contemporary outlook the philosophy and aims of providing vocational training is very much in tact.

A social enterprise that uses food production as part of its curriculum is such a brilliant concept. All you have to do is book a delicious home-made cream tea in their weekly pop-up tea room, buy home-made fudge online or visit their walled garden shop for home-grown produce and garden plants. By default you will also be supporting the work of this community and provide much needed footfall and experience in customer relations.

grange tea room9X6

Getting back to the cream tea (regardless of the venue) this menu can hold its own. Fresh and delicious from steaming pots of tea to light oven warm scones the eating experience is faultless. The scones change regularly as innovative new recipes such as New York Cheesecake and even gluten free lemon and sultana scones (to order) are available. Popular recipes are even published on their blog for you to reproduce at home. Slices of fresh baked cake are also on sale such as coffee and walnut and classic Victoria Sandwich (tea and cake or scone £3.50). In addition to the food the service is friendly and welcoming and it’s just a pleasure to support such a great project.

SIMPLY SCONES COLLAGE

A few weeks after my visit for tea I returned to visit the walled garden. By now the first crops of lovingly tended fruits and vegetables were winging their way into the shop to be sold to the public. As well as being used in the kitchens of the Grange for on site meals and being sold to residents who self-cater excess produce is up for sale. I bought a bag of red-currants, a few courgettes and some freshly dug spuds.

grage flowers

This was just a glimpse of what they grow in the gardens here but of course it’s seasonal. I had just missed the blackcurrants and first show of raspberries and the green beans and sweet corn weren’t quite ready to harvest. Luckily Gill posts a list of produce on the website each day to let customers know what will be in stock. Last time I looked Swiss chard, runner beans and carrots were being harvested.

Grange collage

In addition to horticulture and running the tea-room there is an online fudge business and a craft shop selling handicrafts such as tea cosies in shop price listtheir gift shop in Dorking. For a full description of what the Grange has to offer make sure you visit their website. To visit for tea on a Tuesday afternoon bookings must be made in advance. The walled garden shop is open every day during the week for produce and plants.

Book for Simply Scones 01372 452608

Walled Garden Shop (check the website for produce for sale prior to visiting)

www.grangecentre.org.uk

 

Henry’s Grill

48 High Street, Esher, Surrey KT10 9QY

Sustainability is high on the menu here from British sourced ingredients to using local trades people plus utilising up-cycled fixtures and fittings!

The upside: Genuinely friendly staff and Members of the Sustainable Restaurant Association

The downside: The large menu might be off-putting but they do make almost everything in house here fresh to order including bread

The flipside: An independent business showing that sustainability and the economic pressures of running a restaurant can mesh!

It’s a real treat to review a business that is so keen to be green. The previous tenant at this venue in Esher was Daylesford Organic (prices apparently too high hence its demise) who lasted just ten months so I was keen to see what would replace it. Sadly the organic and sustainable fixtures and fittings were stripped out but no matter new owner Reza Amini has created his own unique space. A former civil engineer he started in the restaurant trade in 1996.

Henrys owner_manager9x6

The ethos here is set around three key areas; society, environment and sourcing. To fulfil this only local tradesmen are used and most of the materials used in the refit are from recycled sources. For example the tiles used under bar, and the table-tops and the wooden walls have been salvaged. On the menu examples of their commitment to sourcing meat comes from local farms in Herefordshire and free-range chicken from a farm in Windsor. Coffee comes from a local roaster in Surbiton and tea from English company Novus.

Arriving on a sunny lunchtime we sat near the big windows that had been opened up creating a gorgeous early summer breeze. The décor is predominantly wood with reinforcing messages of their goals. A welcome splash of colour comes from the retro bright red coffee machine. The decor is industrial with exposed pipe work and a mix of metal and wood. I suspect that in the winter this could be a dark space as the restaurant is a large rectangle with windows only at the front. For evening dining it’s probably perfect with overhead lights at each table.

My dining partner Libby and I decided to go for dishes from the main menu and the 2 course lunch menu (£9.90). Wild boar scotch egg with mustard mayonnaise caught my eye (£6.55) while Libby chose crostini with goats cheese and caramelised red onion.

henrys starters

The scotch egg was warm, flavoursome and in need of the mayonnaise which added an additional and complimentary layer of flavour. Meltingly hebryswatergooey goats cheese with sweet onions is hard to beat and the crostini was a hit. Pleased with our choice of starters we were given the perfect break before our mains arrived. We asked for tap water and were given filtered water in a recyclable bottle. This, the waiter added, was part of their commitment to sustainability. For mains I went for grilled piri piri chicken (£11.90) and my partner the chicken and wild mushroom risotto the second of her selection from the competitively priced lunchtime deal. The risotto was cooked to order, perfectly seasoned and with lots of chicken and vegetables. Libby said it was “the nicest thing I have tasted for a long time” compliments don’t get much better from an accomplished home cook. The chicken was for me, disappointing. The flavour of the piri piri delicious but the chicken had been re-heated and not cooked to order as I felt it suggested on the menu. I had ordered from the section entitled Churrasco Grill. The portion size was large (half a chicken) and I would have been happier with less meat but freshly cooked. The menu also offers burgers, moussaka, tagine and steaks. I found this confusing wondering what the house speciality might be. The accompanying salad was spot on with a good house dressing and the chips hot and chunky. I had asked for a salad instead of chips and Mario (our waiter) was extremely accommodating. He bought the chips along anyway as he had worked out we were there to do a review and thought we would like to try them! We did!

henrys mains

We still had room to sample a couple of desserts. Naively we ordered a tiramisu (£7.95) having been advised that all the deserts were made in house (bar the ice-cream) and a slice of lime cake (£5.25). The tiramisu is made for sharing and comes in a glass tower of bowls with tiramisu in the base a layer of set cream with berry compote and a scoop of berry sorbet. It’s a delicious and indulgent dessert but most of all each element as good as the next. The lime cake couldn’t compete here but it was light and tasty and if we hadn’t been so impressed by our glittering tower of dessert loveliness it might have gotten more attention.

henrys dessert

This independent is a great addition to the eating out scene in Esher, hosts themed evenings and has live music at the weekend. Customers have been known to dance into the wee hours after learning their moves at dance classes held here one morning each week. The team here are certainly working hard to fulfil their admirable ambitions and I hope it pays off!

henrys wall_9x6

 

www.henrysgrill.co.uk

01372 460603