Category Archives: Reviews

Yumn Brasserie

66-71 Southend, South Croydon, CR10 1BF

A slick newcomer in the up-and-coming South End restaurant quarter of Croydon serving classy east west food in an interior designed space

The upside: Expertly executed, Western and Asian dishes from Yumn’s Indian chef who trained in classic French cuisine.

The downside: I wish I lived a bit closer; it’s a bit of a hike for dinner from Guildford.

The flipside: This is a restaurant with vision taking apprentices into the kitchen for full training and they make everything they serve from scratch.

First off the décor here is stylish – it’s clearly been interior designed too a high standard. Cleverly laid out areas for couples, larger parties and even a private dining room has been carved out in this large room. A large bar with seating offers another alternative.

YUMN brasserie interiorOnce seated water was served almost immediately and the menu not long after. Now the menu immediately concerned me (unnecessarily as it turned out) because it had an obvious East/West theme and it was large. We’ll come back to that later!

My sister and I decided to eat off both sides of the menu to see if they could pull this off here. Ordering up two starters I chose spicy chick-peas on a crispy puri (£4.95) and my sister scallops with hummus and beef vinaigrette. Both our choices were original, innovative and intriguing – so far so good. While awaiting the starters some warm from-the-oven sun-dried tomato bread arrived with butter. The waiter confirmed it was made on site and it was a perfect start to our experience.

Our starters arrived plated with care. My chick-peas were on a delicate crispy puri, topped with lightly dressed salad leaves on seasoned raita. I really enjoyed this but, as a spice-loving girl, it could have been hit with even more cumin and chilli. The scallops were fresh, fat and succulent. The beef vinaigrette was innovative and blended with the smooth humus and crunchy pistachio nuts. Here, the attention to detail is good.

YUMN starters

For mains again we took a dish from each side of the menu, my herb crusted hake was hot, fresh and with crispy skin over tender flesh, served on top of Dauphinoise potatoes with a herby beurre blanc. This was a balanced, seasoned dish (£14.95). Our other choice was lemongrass chicken with rice and prawn crackers (£12.50) it was aromatic, flavoursome and freshly cooked with tender chicken pieces and creamy sauce. By now we were very impressed. The menu has plenty of choice too, from grilled meat, fish and burgers on their fancy Josper Grill ( a closed charcoal grill ) to lighter salads and pasta. Wine recommendations come with each dish too and the list itself is well priced with plenty of choice.

YUMN mains

We hardly had room for pudding but decided it would be rude not to share something from the dessert menu and chose the pineapple tarte tatin with pina colada ice-cream (£6.50) although the creme brulee and sticky toffee pudding were also tempting.The dessert was light crispy and perfectly accented by the expertly made ice-cream. This we concluded is a professional outfit with top attention to detail. I had mint tea to finish from the Rare Tea Company (£2.20) and my sister a coffee supplied by Coffee Torelli (£2.40).

YUMN pudding

Joined by owner Kulsum Hussin for dessert we discovered that she grew up in a family of restaurateurs. Although trained as an accountant, a restaurant of her own was always the dream. Education it appears is also top of the agenda and is the reason behind the fabulous hand made breads, patisserie, pastries and sauces that emerge from Yumn’s kitchen. The restaurant is a training centre currently with three local apprentices. In 2003 Kulsum launched Welcome Skills in Bangladesh with the University of West London. A training provider of British qualifications such as NVQs to empower people to gain skills that are in short supply in the hospitality industry. Her current head chef from Bangladesh started in her training centre back home before coming to the UK. With a stunning CV under his belt (Conran restaurant, Hotel du Vin and G Hotel Galloway) he has the ability to run a menu with ease that crosses continents. With a strong kitchen team, on the job training and a dedication to excellence this business has it all.

This venue is already doing a roaring trade in the evening and weekends where you need to book ahead but lunchtimes are less so. It’s worth a visit even if it’s a bit of trip from home.

 

0208 861 2336

www.yumnbrasserie.co.uk

 

Emmas Cake House

A highly skilled baker and cake decorator whose products are unbeatable for taste and appearance

Main event: Gorgeous celebration cakes, which look too good to eatemma6x9

Is it worth the calories? There is cake and then there is Emma’s cake

Tips: Order in advance for special celebrations; these cakes take time to create

After graduating in Hotel Management in 1993 Emma Fuller completed a graduate programme at Harrods, which included merchandising and restaurant management. Next, as a wine merchandiser for Marks and Spencer, Emma gained an experience mix that gave her an enviable foodie CV. Proven in her next move when she became a restaurant and hotel inspector for the AA, leaving eventually to start a family. But bubbling under all this high-powered work Emma had been nurturing a love of baking. Cake making didn’t emerge as a possible career path until later.

Moving out of London and with young children at home Emma’s baking interests were allowed to flourish. First she decided to develop her decoration skill set and spent three years attending evening classes in Horsham. Not content with those skills she gained a coveted place on the intern programme with Mich Turner MBE, a celebrated cake maker and owner of the Little Venice Cake Company.

emma cake trio

Since completing her internship Emma’s cake business, ‘Emmas Cake House’ has flourished. Working hard to establish her customer base she has wowed us with her stunning cakes. I first met this star baker at a networking event and it was love-at-first-bite with her signature salted caramel cake. There are not many cakes I would break the ‘no carbs’ rule for but these are an exception and I don’t think anyone else gets the salt sweet combination as precise. Emmas Cake House stands apart as this business is built on making wonderful cakes presented in a modern and stylish format that floats high above the competition. Without a retail outlet Emma attends food fairs, craft and Christmas events to showcase her products which you can also buy online from her website.

On our journey around Surrey we see a lot of cake stalls selling predominantly cup cakes many of which look great but are pretty average to eat. Serious cake eaters are Emma’s target market and she knows how to keep the orders rolling in. Whilst we chatted about her baking career Emma cut me a slice of her carrot cake. It almost seemed a criminal act to take a knife through the vanilla seed speckled icing, spiked with lemon curd to add a citrus kick. The cake itself is dense but not heavy, moist and cuts faultlessly. The fruit is soaked for 24 hours in brandy before preparation. After cooling, the baked sponge is liberally doused in syrup adding a luxurious mouthfeel. Finished with icing, this is a cake to celebrate with.

emma cake triojpg

Christmas for Emma’s Cake House is a core element of her business. Emma designs three new-look Christmas cakes each year which she sells by attending events and through her website. In addition to cakes you’ll find jars of gingerbread stars, gingerbread houses and jar cakes. All of Emma’s recipes are executed with precision and attention to detail. This is so that she gets the most out of the quality ingredients, for example using brandy soaked fruit, muscovado sugar, fresh spices, nuts and free-range eggs whilst using only small amounts of flour gives the cake a rich moistness and luxury that hard to achieve on a tight budget. Not surprisingly the retail prices of her cakes reflects her investment in ingredients with Christmas cakes starting at £29.95 each. Having seen first hand the effort and care that goes into the baking here the phrase ‘worth every penny’ springs to mind.

It’s not just baking that keeps Emma busy, more recently, helped by the time spent with Mich Turner, Emma demonstrates at cake and bake shows and does tutorial videos and even boasts Lakeland among her clients. Emma is also in demand for food styling for photo shoots.

Her cakes are so revered in the Surrey food community that they have just been featured at the Houses of Parliament. This event, which was organised by Local Food Britain  showcased some of our county’s top food producers to Government.

The accolade to Emma and her cakes doesn’t really get much higher than this.

 

The Cake House on Facebook emma _carrot_cake

www.emmascakehouse.co.uk

Text and images Shirlee
Text and images Shirlee

 

 

The Naked Grocer

10 Bridge Street, Walton-on-Thames, Surrey, KT12 1AA

A sassy grocery store in the heart of Walton-on-Thames.

Go there for: A grand selection of fresh produce, a smattering of intriguing groceries and some foodie treats.

Avoid: The nearby multinationals  – support this award-winning local independent instead.

Is it worth the calories?: Absolutely! Send a lovely fruit box to a friend instead of chocolates – they’ll make one up for you and deliver it.

Tips: It’s on the one-way system but there’s some short-term parking round the corner. Closed on Thursday and Sunday.

The Naked Grocer was opened five years ago by energetic wholesale grocer Chris Bavin and his wife Millie. With some great ideas and chris and gregboundless enthusiasm they created a shop to serve local residents, businesses and offices. Co-hosting ‘Eat Well For Less’ with Greg Wallace last summer plus a full time job means you will only find Chris in the shop on Saturdays. During the week Millie and his sister Jacqui manage the business.

naked grocer honey 6x9Jane and I have learnt that ‘local’ for vegetables isn’t really always an option as the farmland here in Surrey isn’t the best for potatoes and other root veg. These are more likely to be grown in Kent or in Lincolnshire, where higher quality crops will prosper. It’s also a fact that local farms don’t like selling a bag a time to little independents but they do sell at wholesale markets. So Chris and Millie buy as much British fruit and veg as they can when it’s in season. Bananas and other exotics come from hotter countries.

They say the cost of fresh organic produce would be prohibitive, but they do sell top-quality fruit and veg. They stock some interesting supporting products, some of which are organic. On my last visit I picked up some organic cacao nibs and some Gran Luchito Mexican honey with chillies, which has just been featured in the Sunday papers as a must-have foodie gift. Also on offer was local untreated honey, a range of caramel sauces from local chocolate-maker Ildiko and jams made with a splash of Cretan olive oil from artisan producer The Olive Branch.

Walnuts, shop exterior, caramel sauce and Mexican honey

Their office fruit-box delivery scheme is a real hit. I can’t think of many people who wouldn’t prefer a lovely crunchy apple at work to replace the post-consumption guilt of calorie-rich biscuits or chocolates. Need to buy a gift for school or a business? Fruit is a much healthier and thoughtful gift. And if you live within three miles of the shop you can also take advantage of their veg-box delivery scheme.

nakedgrocer_6x9_veg

For many of us a corner grocery store is a thing of the past but the lucky residents of Walton-on-Thames can pop into The Naked Grocer. Their business mantra is to be ‘Fresh, Friendly and Fair’ and one to which they stay true. As winners for two years running of the Re:fresh Independent Retailer of the year award a lot of other people think so too.

The Naked Grocer websitenaked grocer outside 6x9

01932 254123

Text and images Shirlee
Text and images Shirlee

Treacles Tea Shop

The Green, Chiddingfold, GU8 4TUafternoon tea at treacles in Chiddingfold

An elegant tea-shop serving homemade classics with provenance

Go there for: Overfilled sandwiches, gorgeous cakes and afternoon tea.

Avoid: Not ordering afternoon tea in advance if you want the full monty.

Is it worth the calories?: Go for a walk first and earn a guilt-free treat.

Tips: Check out the cards and shabby chic home accessories.

It was a delight to learn that this reincarnation of the uninspiring Green Room has been choreographed by Tracey Honeysett. She trained at Westminster College and her impressive CV includes time as a pastry chef at a London’s Mayfair hotel and ownership of a Michelin starred restaurant in Surrey. More recently Tracey launched the menu at the Hothouse Café at the Medicine Garden, Cobham. This café now boasts a stylish interior, and you can pick up a tasteful selection of home-wares and greeting cards.

With a small on-site kitchen there is a manageable sandwich and panini menu using some local ingredients. Tracey bakes most of the cakes at home, supplementing these with cup cakes from Butter and Cream in Milford. Bread is delivered each day from  Bread of Heaven in Haselmere ; ham and other meats come from Black Barn butchers at Secretts. Coffee is from artisan roasters Coffee Real (ethically sourced and expertly cupped) and a great selection of teas and soft drinks complement the menu.

ham sandwichWe visited on a warm day so we sat outdoors overlooking the green. Indoors we noticed a group of ladies enjoying a full afternoon tea. Served on a dramatic cake stand were macaroons, crustless mini sandwiches, scones with clotted cream and madeleines. I chose a more modest ham sandwich on granary bread: overfilled, fresh and packed with salad, it was robust and hearty but I couldn’t resist asking for a spoon of homemade spicy tomato chutney on the side. A perfect addition, this lent a piquant nudge to the palate. I was also tempted by the hummus and char-grilled peppers (£5.75) and egg mayonnaise made with free-range eggs (£4.50) from Hallgate Farm in Sussex. My son’s hot sausage sandwich (£5.00) disappeared so fast I only managed to get a picture of half of it but he assured me it was on a par with the best. We shared a slice of carrot cake (£2.50); it was moist and spicy and I think Paul and Mary would have struggled to find fault. When Tracey is busy villagers supplement her cakes with their home-baked offerings: she says the coffee and walnut cake is a big hit.

treacles_trio

Service here is friendly and efficient and the achievable menu won’t disappoint. Tracey is keen to experiment and develop the menu but is taking it slowly: she wants to get into the groove before doing any serious marketing. Already discovered by cyclists, this café is a jolly good reason to stop off in Chiddingfold.

treacles_tea_shop_exterior_9x6

01428 684859

Facebook page

No website at present

Text and images Shirlee
Text and images Shirlee
Croissants chalk hills

Chalk Hills Bakery Shop and Cafe

 75 Bell Street, Reigate, RH2 7ANChris & Rosie owners of Chalk Hills Bakery

A bakery and café delivering artisan bread and pastry magic to the lucky folk of Reigate.

Go there for: Handmade artisan bread, gorgeous pastries, tarts, and a bacon sandwich to shout about.

Avoid: Trying to resist anything in this café; it’s futile.

Is it worth the calories?: I should say so: this is the ultimate good food experience!

Tips: The sandwiches on the menu are fantastic but if you want a bespoke combination just ask.

Walking into Chalk Hill Bakery on a rainy autumn day to the smell of toasting bread and aromatic coffee is a truly uplifting experience.Chalk Hills Bakery shop front

Chris and Rosie Robinson sold their gastro pub, The Stephen Langton in Abinger Hammer, to start a proper artisan bakery. Coincidentally, Priory Farm had a kitchen to rent in the old tractor shed and in November 2010 the first loaves were sold in the Priory Farm shop.

Chris and his team make sour-dough bread by hand the old-fashioned way and let it rise naturally over a 2-day period to develop flavour and texture ­- don’t think of muttering Chorley Wood, dough improvers or high-speed mixing here. Sourcing fine ingredients such as Shipton Mill organic flour gives added provenance to their products. The long fermentation process means the bread stays fresh for longer and is easier to digest.

Chalk Hills Bakery produce 17 different loaves, including fig and walnut sour dough (£3.65), large rye (£2.75), and other classics such as ciabatta (£2.50) and focaccia with a selection of toppings (£3.95). They also make a Surrey bloomer (£1.75) and Italian sticks (£2.10). Even the yeasted breads have a flavour boost of sour dough starter and are slowly proved in a refrigerator. The full range of products is on sale at Priory Farm and at Chalk Hills Bakery every day. They sell wholesale to a handful of local businesses.

Artisan bread selection at Chalk HIlls

Chalk Hills Bakery has definitely got the X factor (but with classier music). It’s modern yet rustic, charming and friendly, and has a simple but innovative menu. They cleverly match their bread to the sandwich fillings so you get the best texture and flavour combination. In addition they make croissants, scones, sausage rolls (with free-range sausage meat from Bowles farm in Ewhurst). Ham and beef for their sandwiches are cooked in the bakery; meat comes from Robert and Edwards of Reigate. In fact everything on the menu is made at the bakery, even the soup.

The bread menu, sweet tarts and bacon sandwich on white bloomer

I tucked into their classic bacon sandwich made from Gloucester Old Spot free-range bacon on toasted Surrey Bloomer (£3.95). What a triumph! Crisp, salty bacon, sweet herb jelly and perfectly toasted bread. The Sage Jelly from local producer PickleCake Parma ham and mozzarella with sage jelly (produced locally by Picklecake) also caught my eye – next time! I rounded this off with a pot of Barry’s Irish tea. I’ve never heard of it but apparently if you are from Southern Ireland it’s the only tea to drink and Chris (who’s from Dublin) won’t sell anything else. Coffee comes from Union, a craft roaster in East London, and soft drinks from Luscombe organics in Devon.

Business has been booming ever since the bakery opened and they plan to open another shop. Just make a wish that it’s on your doorstep: I have.

www.chalkhillsbakery.com

01737669116

The Parrot Inn

The Parrot Inn, Forest Green, Surrey RH5 5R2

A pleasing country pub with locally sourced food on the menu.Parrot Inn Forest Green

Go there for: Hearty pub food with a modern tweak featuring the owner’s farm- reared meat and produce.

Avoid: Thinking this too far off the beaten track to travel too: the journey is well worth it.

Is it worth the calories?: We think so! But careful, the portions are generous here.

Tips: Make sure you try the unique air-cured ham made in their own butchery. Request that your pudding is heated in the oven and not the microwave.

This has the double whammy of being a highly regarded gastro pub and an award winning farm shop. This is a Gotto family affair and they have a wealth of experience from enterprises in London and Surrey. Enjoy a sandwich from the specials board at the bar or order from the main menu in the dining room or pub itself. On sunny days, sit in the garden and gaze across the green into open countryside: it’s a tantalisingly relaxing location to watch the world go by, on horseback, horse-drawn carriage and other modes of transport.

We visited last November on a crisp autumn day: Jane ordered a deep dish steak and ale pie with a puff pastry crust, mashed potato and vegetables. The filling was perfectly cooked, full of autumnal feistiness, the meat mouth-meltingly tender. I had the pork and pistachio terrine with goose rillettes and toasted sour dough. The terrine was a little dry but perfectly balanced by some wine jelly and they were happy to bring some more. The waitress also bought us a sample of their homemade soup to try, which was delicious. For dessert we shared a chocolate and cognac flan with salted butter caramel sauce with a hand made biscuit and ice cream.

Pork and pistachio terrine and Beef and Ale Pie

A disappointing finish, as the flan had been microwaved (a pet hate of ours), which made the pastry soggy. We didn’t finish it and explained why we had left it. Without hesitation the dessert was removed from our bill. We felt that they had been extremely professional as the meal had been delicious apart from the dessert.

Bar menu, Pub from the road and Cognac and chocolate flan

On a summer visit I sampled a starter from the main menu: scallops in sauce vierge. This was an interesting version of this sauce, a little more cooked than you would expect a true vierge to be. It worked well, as the bacon and tomato flavours accented the fat juicy scallops with great aplomb. It was essential to try another dessert: this time I couldn’t resist lemon sponge with vanilla ice cream and lemon curd. The lemon curd was tart and sweet, a perfect match for the warm sponge and cold ice cream.

Scallops in sauce vierge, cut juicy scallop and lemon sponge pudding

I have a niggling feeling that the sponge might have also had its molecules realigned by waves generated by a magnetron, but the food is good enough to withstand this very slight criticism. I got chatting to some American tourists, who had also had a great lunch. We agreed that the setting and food in this pub was worth the journey through some gorgeous Surrey countryside.

01306 621 339

The Parrot Inn

Peacocks

Peacocks, Collingwood Crescent, Guildford, Surrey, GU1 2PF

Traditional grocers with a deli counter in the heart of the Boxgrove community in Guildford.Gregory and Jeremy Peacock

 Go there for: Fresh bread, Loseley bakery quiche and pastries, deli items, local sausages, bacon and fresh produce, and Isle of Mull cheddar.

Avoid: Getting there too late for bread, which is often sold out by lunchtime.

Is it worth the calories?: Depends what you make when you get home!

Tips: This is a cash or cheque only trading post. No cards.

As part of my masters’ degree in food policy I studied the demise of corner food shops and the domination of supermarkets. Armed with this new food shopping radicalism I sought out the small retailers to spend my hard earned cash, to keep money in the local community. Luckily, Peacocks was on my doorstep.

Jeremy and Gregory Peacock opened the shop in 1984 on advice from their dad who had a successful career in retail. Their ethos has been to keep it small and manageable, although holidays (they both sighed) can be hard to factor in. Pressure to open on Sundays has been resisted and, really, who can blame them? If you got up at 3am to buy fresh fruit and vegetables 3 times a week, you would say no too.

Local produce in high on the agenda here: potatoes, carrots, cabbages and broccoli come from a farm in Deal, just over the border in Kent. Farms like this don’t like selling small amounts to little shops, so they have to buy them at the wholesale market. They also buy imported fruits like pineapples, bananas, figs and papaya.

From left clockwise; cheese counter, fresh produce, some fine imported spanish charcuterie, and the shop front

They also sell bread from Hillyers of Farncombe, sausages and bacon from award-winning butchers A & R Baileys, and dairy products from Loseley and Tims Dairy. The delicatessen counter has meats and charcuterie and over 30 cheeses, including Isle of Mull cheddar. This full-on mature cheddar is made from organic unpasteurized milk in Tobermory and owes its unique flavour to the cow’s diet of grass and whisky grains. Try a sample: it’s delicious.

From left; Fresh figs, Isle of Mull cheddar and fresh produce

Peacock’s doesn’t break boundaries in gourmet food retailing but it does offer a good range of quality products at a competitive price. I buy ham and sliced chorizo here along with essentials like milk from West Horsley dairy and local eggs; it’s often cheaper and better quality than the big retailers. Regulars tell you that if they aren’t well the brothers will pop round with milk or a loaf or bread!

When a big supermarket opened a few years ago the brothers’ trade dropped but they sense that people want to support local shops and they have renewed confidence for the future. Peacocks is more than just your average grocers and by supporting them we can ensure its continued success.

www.peacocksdeli.com

01483 829 768

Hothouse Café

Hothouse Café  @ The Medicine Garden,Downside Road,Cobham,Surrey,KT11 3LU

Inspired cooking in the grounds of a restored Victorian walled garden. How much closer to perfect can you get?Cupcakes at the Hothouse cafe

Go there for: New chef Tracey Honeysett’s thoughtful menu featuring local products plus their famous brownies, proper sandwiches and delightful desserts.

Avoid: Visiting without pre-booking on hot sunny days, particularly at the weekend.

Is it worth the calories?: Sadly I only sampled two courses of what’s on offer but both get a yes.

Tips: Tracey Honeysett used to run Drakes on the Pond, where Steve Drake got his first Michelin star.

With a food background like this it’s a menu to watch. The hothouse café started out in the old potting shed of the Medicine Garden while the larger site of the original greenhouse was rebuilt. The new build echoes the original and provides much needed additional seating. Like many Medicine Garden groupies, I was waiting with anticipation to see what the re-opening and launch of this bigger space would bring. I wasn’t disappointed. To run alongside the existing food on offer, a modern European menu has been launched by new chef Tracey Honeysett. Inside the new hothouseThe hothouse café itself is a collaboration of three partners who, without any previous catering experience, jumped at the chance to open a café here. Luckily they had plenty of time to gain experience in the small potting shed before moving to their new bigger home. I went on a lovely rain-free day a couple of weeks ago. The café was open for day twelve of its new life. The hothouse was smaller that I had imagined but it’s been stylishly accessorised and I was keen to see the menu. It doesn’t disappoint and with six starters, five mains and four desserts, it’s inspired, on trend and not over described. Becky Mcguire who co-owns this eatery twin sister Tory and brother in law Paul Power was on hand to take me through the menu. Everything is freshly prepared in the kitchen apart from bread and some of the cakes. They buy as many ingredients as possible from local suppliers: bread comes from The Bakery at East Horsley; cakes from Ranmore; free-range chicken and eggs are also locally sourced.

A couple of the items on the menu were not ready but I still had a hard decision and it was a close call for the chargrilled asparagus with lemon butter and hazelnuts. I opted for a starter of chicken liver parfait, red onion marmalade and toasted granary bread, which was artfully presented with a sprinkle of sea salt. It was perfect for lunch with a melt in the mouth texture and a pink hue achieved by leaving the liver a little pink in the middle. I had room for a dessert. and I love a panna cotta (ask Jane) but the Earl Grey panna cotta with shortbread biscuit had only just been made was not quite set (next time I hope). My second choice was lemon and raspberry posset, a tart but sweet lemon cream with three perfect plump raspberries poised on top. The combination was a hit and I only wish I had been able to sample a few more dishes.  Instead I gazed at the choices of other guests: it was evident that all the dishes coming from the kitchen were of equal standard. I’m not a shy person – I asked a few other people what they thought of the food and it was all thumbs up.

My apprehension of what might happen here has lifted and been replaced with a warm fuzzy glow. I can’t help but think that there is a little bit of Petersham Nurseries magic going on in our neck of the woods and it’s very welcome.

01932 862562

www.themedicinegarden.com

Petersham Nurseries Café

Petersham Nurseries Café, Church Lane, off Petersham Road, Richmond, Surrey TW10 7AG

The most chic garden centre in Richmond, Surrey with a Michelin star café and perfect karma

Go there for Innovative eclectic food from team of chefs trained by Australia’s Greg Malouf.

Avoid Putting your bag on the floor (which is a traditional earth floor) as you are in a greenhouse. Trying to book dinner: it’s a lunch-time only venue but does have a supper club in the summer.

Is it worth the calories? All of it is worth it!  It’s a yes from me (well Amanda Holden was sitting next to us). Inspiring starters mains and desserts using seasonal thoughtfully sourced ingredients.

Tips: Book in advance for the restaurant. Get there early if you want to park or follow the advice on the nursery website for parking options as its very limited on site.  Leave enough time to peruse the shop and nursery and soak up the atmosphere.

Unusually for a Michelin-starred restaurant, Petersham is such an unusual location that we have to talk about that first, and the food second! This venue has it all. It’s in a unique setting, it oozes shabby chic and the moment you enter this calm, celestial oasis, a sense of wellbeing ensues. There are many nurseries and garden centres that offer a café along with shopping and furniture but none match this.  It’s clear that the people behind the business are well-financed and travelled and ooze style. Dotted around the nursery are statues from Asia and other atmospheric props like large ceramic pots, barrows and sculptures. The chairs and tables in the café are antiques from Indonesia. It’s a quirky yet glamorous with a unique charm.

When the nursery came on the market Francesco and Gael Boglione decided to buy as it was at the bottom of their garden and they feared what developers may do. After a restoration programme it is now a successful business, selling a stunning selection of garden plants, Italian glass, gardening equipment, home décor, crockery and shabby chic furniture. The des res location in Richmond means regulars include local celebrities, yummy mummies and the well heeled.

Opening an award-winning restaurant was not part of the original plan but to offer a proper cup of coffee and cake was.

So it’s perhaps ironic that it’s the restaurant that gets media attention. Skye Gyngell opened the kitchen, and a Michelin star and several cookbooks later she has now moved on. She set the bar high but her replacement, chef Greg Malouf, equals her reputation.  The ethos remains: dishes are made with seasonal organic produce and it’s the simplicity with which they are served that make them so endearing.

On my first visit with Skye Gyngell cooking we were served crisp flatbreads with olive oil. The starter was a Carpaccio of smoked haddock with a lemon and olive oil dressing and a salad of shaved fennel, chilli, lemon and parsley.  Stewed oxtail served on velvety mashed potatoes followed. This was cooked to perfection, the meat falling from the bones with just a nudge. For dessert we shared a pannacotta with fresh rosemary and honey, which was rich, subtly scented and a perfect finish. Our meal lived up to expectations and I am glad that we ate here before this talented chef moved on.

Award winning chef and writer Greg Malouf had already done a few guest shifts at Petersham and was looking for a new culinary adventure so agreed to come for spring and summer season and he left in 2012 as planned. However the team he bought with him from Australia have stayed on and are tweaking the menu with their own innovative twists. With its fantastic reputation, fairytale setting and proximity to London combined there is always a queue of talented chefs keen to cook here.

A return visit was hastily added to see if the magic was still at Petersham. Our waiter assured us that Greg Malouf was in the kitchen and we went in to lunch with high hopes. Fresh white bread and a small dish of Zisola olive oil came with our drinks.This single estate oil is made especially for the nursery from a blend of four different varieties of olives; it’s quite delicious and on sale at £16.50 for a 500ml bottle. The bread was good but looked commercially made to me and on enquiry the waiter was happy to say that it came from the Flour Power City organic bakery in London. We shared a starter of summer bollito misto salad with salse verde dressing. This take on a classic Italian mixed poached meat was delightful: the poultry was perfectly cooked, the beef was rare and tender. The leaves wrapped around the mixed meats and were coated with salsa verde. The portions here are generous so sharing courses is a possibility without feeling left out.

For mains we had plaice coated in chickpea flour (ceci) and sesame batter served with a cabbage salad and tartare sauce with preserved lemon and a double lamb chop with Persian aubergine and organic chickpeas. The lamb was pink and cooked to perfection, the aubergine had been roasted and pulled from the skin and worked really well with the large, mouth-wateringly soft chickpeas. A large red chilli nestled in the dish, which gave a hint of heat to the sauce. The lamb was fantastic and won first prize on this visit: the plaice although delicious, couldn’t compete . Pannacotta with vanilla, comice pears and rose petals was beautifully plated and lived up to its image but for me had a little too much gelatine: I prefer a bit more of a wobble in a pannacotta.

Fixed price menus are priced at £24 for 2 courses / £28 for 3 or you can eat a la carte with starters and desserts from £8 and mains from £20.

Just to be clear there are two places to eat in Petersham Nurseries: the Teahouse and the café. The teahouse offers wonderful light meals, extravagant and interesting cakes and coffee – and you don’t need to book. In the summer seating extends outside to a range of mismatched tables. The café is the restaurant and you must book to guarantee a table. You can be lucky though and I rang up on the morning (31st May 2012) and got a table from 12-2. Perfect.

www.petershamnurseries.com

0208 940 5230