Tag Archives: modern british

Duke of Wellington East Horsley

A re-imagined gastro pub with a creative menu and wine list, fantastic service and stylish décor, just a ten minute drive from Guildford. Expect delicious food, regular events such as live music, themed dinners and local socials for neighbours.

When I was invited to try the menu at this pub, which is part of the Peach Group I didn’t hesitate. With just two pubs in their growing collection in Surrey their portfolio includes another eighteen (many of them recently acquired) and all in market towns such as Oxford, Warwick and Birmingham. The other Surrey location is The Richard Onslow in Cranleigh, and it’s a favourite of mine .

Since I have lived in Guildford this pub had been crying out for new lease of life. It was a pretty run down and then it was reinvented with a BBQ themed menu. Poor reviews and a very American BBQ menu kept most of us away. Then in 2016 Peach took over. This is a business with a solid understanding of what ingredients you need to make a pub successful. They set to work and with a refurbished interior, creative menu with a mix of traditional and contemporary dishes on the seasonal menu and customers started to roll back in. Add to this a mix of local and imported beers, wines, spirits and real ales and the customer magnet has been switched back on.

What really sets this business aside is the staff, welcoming, helpful and professional its a totally refreshing element of the on site experience. In addition they all seem to really enjoy their jobs in an industry that is well known for long hours and low pay. Its no surprise that out of the ten awards on their website that five are for their employment practices. The Sunday Times ranked them at forty-five in their top 100 companies to work for last year.

The food here is fresh, beautifully presented from ingredients sourced locally and nationally. Head Chef Nic Baba embraces the seasons and although I ate from the spring menu the current summer menu ticks all the boxes too. They share the same core values of healthy eating (an important ethos on the menu) so expect to find plenty of fresh vegetables with your meal too. Sharing boards, hearty salads, extras to add to customise your plate and daily specials form the menu style here. Meat is from top butchers Aubrey Allen who also supply free-range chicken, Cornish lamb and free-range pork from Jimmy Butler. Known as the butcher to the stars you know that poultry, beef and pork here is going to be top notch.

We kicked off our meal with a modern take on a retro prawn cocktail and some ham croquettes served with a spiced tomato chutney. The cocktail was layered for effect and the combination of guacamole, prawns, tomato salsa and crunchy lettuce paired with some crunchy tortilla was delicious (an idea I have since copied for entertaining). The croquettes arrived piping hot with a spicy tomato chutney and local Secretts salad leaves. Crunchy on the outside and creamy and smoky in the middle it was the perfect start to our meal. Mains included pan-fried sea bass on a generous stack of new potatoes and tender stem broccoli and a super food salad with a extra of poached salmon. The fish was fresh and crispy ( source from Brixham day boats) and the accompanying vegetables and sauce without fault. The salad had a deliciously lemony zingy dressing and the perfect balance of pulses, leaves and grated vegetables. No feeling there that you were a second rate diner by choosing a salad plate so this gets a high score in my book.

Deserts had to be the lemon tart, a staple on menus in the 1990’s and an intriguing apple panna cotta. The lemon tart had a caramelised top, which gave way to an intensely lemony creamy filling on a light short buttery pastry – stunning. The panna cotta was really unusual with an apple jelly layer on top of the cream element. Freshly poached apple was served as a garnish. It felt lighter and good for you than I would have expected which is always a plus. We ended with fresh mint tea.

The food here is excellent and a credit to the Peach Group for creating another venue in Surrey that should be on your go to list.

01483 282 312

Guildford RD, East Horsley, Leatherhead, KT24 6AA

www.dukeofwellingtoneasthorsley.co.uk

 

Natter Cafe

67 St. Johns Street. Farncombe, GU7 3EH

 An award winning cafe where owner Kay has created a wonderful eating and meeting space, for the local community.

The Upside: Gorgeous coffee, freshly prepared traditional all day breakfasts, contemporary salads, savouries and freshly baked cakes.

The downside: This café is so busy you need to book in advance to guarantee a lunchtime table. It’s closed in the evening but they do run events.

The flipside: Buy tickets for one of their infamous supper clubs where you can BYO and indulge in some great food at prices that won’t break the bank.

Natter café is the type of success story I would wish for any new independent starting up in this challenging market. Winner of the Muddy Stilettos best cafe in Surrey award I can tell you why this business is making waves!

Kay is the creative force behind the Natter Café and her story starts with coffee beans. Her original foray into coffee was stall in Guildford’s North Street Market which she started with a business partner in 2002. They parted company but the stall was very successful and its still at the market today. Kay’s passion for coffee retailing saw her start a coffee van service and a kiosk at Farncombe station. Her standards of service are legendary. Ring the kiosk from your mobile and they will have a latte and a bacon butty ready to pass to you on the platform as your train passes through.

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Adoring customers always asked Kay when she was going to open a café. It wasn’t she says really on her radar, but when friend and estate agent John suggested a property he had would be perfect for this purpose it was a defining moment. Going on holiday the next day she had time to think it through and the rest is history. Kay is really pleased she took the plunge. Its clear she has really invested in this business the premises have been refurbished to a high standard and the result is a really lovely comfortable space.

Coffee comes from a roaster in Winchester and Kay uses single origin estate for filter coffee, which is brewed at your table. You can choose from single or double shots (from £1.50). Teas are from Canton teas known for their delicious blends many of them from Taiwan (from £2.50).

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Food is also freshly prepared on site apart from some of the cakes, which are made by local producers. Since opening Kay has never had to advertise for staff. She has she says been lucky enough to have lots of locals (mums, students, teenagers) regularly popping in asking for work. In addition she also has lots of expert cake makers offering to supply her too! I expect the welcoming warm space Kay has created has everything to do with this.

Food is prepared by two chefs in a compact kitchen hence the need to buy in cakes but also because this café is always busy. Come late for lunch and expect to wait for a table. Kay and her team have the formula just right here. A core menu with breakfasts and sandwiches are complimented by seasonal specials. Expect soup in the winter and salads in the summer. A full English breakfast with local butcher Wakelings sausages is £8.75 and a generous plateful. For smaller people or appetites you can go for a half size portion at £5.75 (I wish more eateries did this). Smoked salmon bagels are also on offer at £5.00.

specials-board

Arriving for lunch I ordered a salad of the specials board. It was a warmish autumnal day so it was a toss up between that or roasted carrot and butternut squash soup. The salad won as my favourites were featured here; beetroot, rocket, pine nut and feta with salad leaves and a light tasty dressing. I have a pet hate of salad leaves served naked (read my article here) but these were perfectly dressed. My plus one had bacon muffins with melted brie and salad, which he said was tasty, light and gooey. I didn’t really get a look in there but I trust his judgement.

natter-cafe-savouries

We were too full for cakes but we did have coffee, which was full flavoured and served really hot. We watched the other customers around us being served equally good-looking plates of food.

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I love this café its got good coffee and food at its core. Kay supports other locals by procuring her stock from them wherever possible (produce from the local greengrocer and meat from Wakelings and Black Barn)  and she provides local employment too. Her staff recently for her birthday treated her to a day spa when she thought she was just going to work. I think that says it all!

Go and give Natter a whirl – opening hours and menu on the website- link below.

01483 421303
and also at Farncombe Station on Platform 1 GU7 3NF / 07531 018190

 

Yumn Brasserie

66-71 Southend, South Croydon, CR10 1BF

A slick newcomer in the up-and-coming South End restaurant quarter of Croydon serving classy east west food in an interior designed space

The upside: Expertly executed, Western and Asian dishes from Yumn’s Indian chef who trained in classic French cuisine.

The downside: I wish I lived a bit closer; it’s a bit of a hike for dinner from Guildford.

The flipside: This is a restaurant with vision taking apprentices into the kitchen for full training and they make everything they serve from scratch.

First off the décor here is stylish – it’s clearly been interior designed too a high standard. Cleverly laid out areas for couples, larger parties and even a private dining room has been carved out in this large room. A large bar with seating offers another alternative.

YUMN brasserie interiorOnce seated water was served almost immediately and the menu not long after. Now the menu immediately concerned me (unnecessarily as it turned out) because it had an obvious East/West theme and it was large. We’ll come back to that later!

My sister and I decided to eat off both sides of the menu to see if they could pull this off here. Ordering up two starters I chose spicy chick-peas on a crispy puri (£4.95) and my sister scallops with hummus and beef vinaigrette. Both our choices were original, innovative and intriguing – so far so good. While awaiting the starters some warm from-the-oven sun-dried tomato bread arrived with butter. The waiter confirmed it was made on site and it was a perfect start to our experience.

Our starters arrived plated with care. My chick-peas were on a delicate crispy puri, topped with lightly dressed salad leaves on seasoned raita. I really enjoyed this but, as a spice-loving girl, it could have been hit with even more cumin and chilli. The scallops were fresh, fat and succulent. The beef vinaigrette was innovative and blended with the smooth humus and crunchy pistachio nuts. Here, the attention to detail is good.

YUMN starters

For mains again we took a dish from each side of the menu, my herb crusted hake was hot, fresh and with crispy skin over tender flesh, served on top of Dauphinoise potatoes with a herby beurre blanc. This was a balanced, seasoned dish (£14.95). Our other choice was lemongrass chicken with rice and prawn crackers (£12.50) it was aromatic, flavoursome and freshly cooked with tender chicken pieces and creamy sauce. By now we were very impressed. The menu has plenty of choice too, from grilled meat, fish and burgers on their fancy Josper Grill ( a closed charcoal grill ) to lighter salads and pasta. Wine recommendations come with each dish too and the list itself is well priced with plenty of choice.

YUMN mains

We hardly had room for pudding but decided it would be rude not to share something from the dessert menu and chose the pineapple tarte tatin with pina colada ice-cream (£6.50) although the creme brulee and sticky toffee pudding were also tempting.The dessert was light crispy and perfectly accented by the expertly made ice-cream. This we concluded is a professional outfit with top attention to detail. I had mint tea to finish from the Rare Tea Company (£2.20) and my sister a coffee supplied by Coffee Torelli (£2.40).

YUMN pudding

Joined by owner Kulsum Hussin for dessert we discovered that she grew up in a family of restaurateurs. Although trained as an accountant, a restaurant of her own was always the dream. Education it appears is also top of the agenda and is the reason behind the fabulous hand made breads, patisserie, pastries and sauces that emerge from Yumn’s kitchen. The restaurant is a training centre currently with three local apprentices. In 2003 Kulsum launched Welcome Skills in Bangladesh with the University of West London. A training provider of British qualifications such as NVQs to empower people to gain skills that are in short supply in the hospitality industry. Her current head chef from Bangladesh started in her training centre back home before coming to the UK. With a stunning CV under his belt (Conran restaurant, Hotel du Vin and G Hotel Galloway) he has the ability to run a menu with ease that crosses continents. With a strong kitchen team, on the job training and a dedication to excellence this business has it all.

This venue is already doing a roaring trade in the evening and weekends where you need to book ahead but lunchtimes are less so. It’s worth a visit even if it’s a bit of trip from home.

 

0208 861 2336

www.yumnbrasserie.co.uk

 

Eliza’s Tea Room


elizas
Hurst Farm, Chapel Lane, Milford, Surrey GU8 5HU

An established lunch and afternoon tea destination benefitting from a recent facelift and change of management

The Upside: Charming cakes, comforting soups, inspired savouries and freshly baked scones.

The Downside:  Lunches are from 12-2.30 and the tea-room shuts at 4.30pm everyday.

The Flip-side: Lovely company creating unique food and local employment.

Tips: Leave plenty of time to mooch around Secretts Farm Shop too. They have an eclectic stock with some intriguing finds.

When word on the street filtered through that Suke and Tom Wibaut (owners of Butter and Cream) had taken over Eliza’s Tea Room it was welcome news. Situated right next to the entrance of Secretts Farm Shop this venue had been inching its way towards a fresh start for a while. Tired décor and a menu as old as some regulars had contributed to its fading star status.

elizas eggsAt the moment changes here are small but visible to those in the know. Appreciating the loyal following the tea-room still has, firm favourites such filled baked potatoes have, for now, remained. New more contemporary menu items are being slowly added while Tom (a carpenter by trade) has refitted and restyled the serving area. Now there is plenty of room for a shiny new coffee machine and a large display area for gorgeous cakes (£3.00 a slice) and freshly baked scones (Cream teas from £5.45). For the more adventurous diner the specials board features seasonal bakes, tarts and home-made soups. Previously some of the food on offer was bought in so it’s delightful to see many more dishes being prepared on site from fresh produce some of which is local.

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Having photographed the new menu for Suke I already had a sneak preview of the changes here. Designer sandwiches with interesting fillings, fresh soups with classy garnishes and great new breakfast menu. A few weeks later I popped in for lunch with my daughter. We sat with our backs to the specials board and ordered off the main menu but were lucky enough after chatting to the chef sample what was on offer . The beetroot, sweet potato and celeriac gratin had a subtle spicy earthy flavour, complimented by the sweetness of the potato which lent itself to the creamy texture . The roasted tomato tart was housed in a perfect short crust case and the rich yellow custard complimented the savoury-sweet tang of the roasted tomatoes (both (£7.95 with salad).

eliza's trio

Having chosen from the main menu my daughter loved her classic tuna filled potato. This is a combo that seems to have beaten off the competition over the years, canned tuna mixed with mayonnaise, lemon juice and a few twists of black pepper in a piping hot oven baked spud. The oven baking of course develops a delicious skin and is a far superior being to those lazily blasted in a microwave. I opted for a new menu item; salad of roasted beetroot and butternut squash served over Secretts leaves and finished with chunks of fresh goats cheese (£8.25). The leaves had been tossed in a light, balsamic and olive oil dressing before serving, lending a refreshing tangy edge to each bite. The beetroot and squash were served warm making each cheese-laden mouthful one to savour.

After a busy morning and tasty lunch we still had room for a scone and a slice of gluten free almond cake all made by Suke’s team at Butter and Cream. The almond cake was moist and nutty and the scone would have got 10/10 from even the most old school Home Economics teacher. There is also a new breakfast menu which really comes in to it’s own on Sundays where you can enjoy cook to order French toast, American pancakes with maple syrup which compliment creamy scrambled eggs and omelettes.

Changes here mark a positive new era in the life of this Tea Room and it’s definitely worth a visit. Put it on your go to list!

Visit their facebook page here

01483 520525

elizas cakes 9x6

The Steak Stones Sizzle Club

Main Event: A red-hot lava stone eating experience

Is it worth the calories? With rising obesity rates dominating the press an opportunity to eat healthily scores high here.

We love dinner! So when Nick Metcalf and guest chef Jaqueline Wise invited us to their unique supper club we eagerly obliged. Being included in a party of food professionals we happily caught up with some old friends and made some new ones too.

Sizzle Club Menu

Steak stones are natural lava rock, cut and sanded smooth for cooking. Used in top restaurants globally they sounded like a bit of a gimmick. But what makes them unique is their ability to hold their temperature for prolonged period. Chilled stones are  glazed and useful for keeping desserts, cold cuts or even sushi cool while heated stones are perfect for tabletop and outdoor cooking.

To promote his lava stones Nick has a private dining room in Reigate where he hosts regular supper clubs. This allows him to showcase his products, get valuable feedback and spread the word. On arrival at the event bubbly and a range of tapas from local independent delicatessen, Cullenders, were served. Dinner followed in a dedicated dining room and here the fun started. We were all served thick-cut fillet steaks with chunky chips, asparagus and cherry tomatoes. A health warning, not to touch the stones with inquisitive fingers, was strategically flagged and good job too, these stones heated to 350c demand respect. The thick fillet steaks were from butchers, Aubrey Allen, who source grass-fed dry-aged beef. The steaks were big but you don’t get the benefit of this cooking platform with anything smaller.

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It turns out that eating from a sizzling lava stone is an exothermic experience particularly suited to a wintery night. Having wondered what benefit this heat retaining rock might bring to the table can now be shared. You get a hunk of tasty meat that changes character during the meal plus its gets hotter as you eat. This works because the meat is only turned once and doesn’t move during the process. You can cut a slice off and press it into the stone to achieve your preferred level of ‘doneness’. You are in complete control throughout. The accompanying vegetables can also get the same treatment. Mulling back to previous steak dinners that have congealed on the plate, or worse, a chopping board (who ever thought that was a good idea?) gives this format extra points.

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Steaks finished we waxed lyrical about our meal and agreed that it was the perfect  cooking platform for top quality meat. We could see that using this for salmon, scallops and other solid protein sources would be just as effective.

steak_stones_dessert_6x9Steak stones cleared away we finished with coffee a dessert of lemon and elderflower sponge with a hot caramel sauce.

Lava stones are available on line from Nicks shop and he has a range of packages for restaurant. It’s the larger commercial market that this company is primarily interested in but they are also keen to sell online to individuals in single units. This is a great gift for meat lovers and given that there is some fabulous local beef on offer in Surrey it’s a perfect match.

0800 1777 577

www.steakstones.com

Text and images Shirlee
Text and images Shirlee

Mushroom paté

We served this rich meaty vegan paté at our pop-up café last June on our vegetarian Surrey Platters. Much lower fat than meat based paté makes it a healthy option too. Providing you use some field mushrooms in your mix you will achieve the rich coloured mix shown here. Use a low salt yeast extract at it develops the meaty flavour without escalating the sodium content.

Ingredientsmushroom_pate_6x9
2 tablespoons olive oil
100g butter or vegan margarine
2 red onions, finely diced
4 cloves crushed garlic
500g field mushrooms, finely diced
50g mixed dried wild mushrooms, soaked in enough boiling water to cover
1 teaspoon low salt yeast extract, mix with the mushroom water
2 dessertspoons fresh chopped mixed herbs
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
50g fresh brown breadcrumbs
Some fresh herbs to garnish

Heat the oil and butter in a large pan with a lid. Sweat the onions and garlic until softened and ever so slightly browned. Add the diced fresh and dried mushrooms to the pan and cook with the lid on stirring occasionally for 5 minutes over a low heat. Mix the yeast extract with the reserved soaking water from the dried mushrooms, add to the pan with the herbs and cook gently for a further five minutes.Remove from the heat and stir in the breadcrumbs. Allow to cool, then pulse the mixture in a food processor for a few seconds. Mix thoroughly, adjust the seasoning and place in a serving dish. Garnish with fresh herbs and chill until required.

If you don’t have a food processor just very finely chop the ingredients before cooking.

Serve as a starter or light lunch with salad or use as a sandwich filling.

Download the  recipe for Mushroom Pate

mushroom pate

Text and images Shirlee
Text and images Shirlee