Category Archives: Blog

Kale, Celeriac and Chorizo Hash

Blog, Farm, Recipes

This lovely seasonal dish can be a ‘Cook from scratch’ as shown here or to use up leftover potatoes/root vegetables. I developed this recipe for Secretts in Milford  using their  home grown kale and celeriac which are the the stars here combined with the spiciness of Chorizo sausage. This recipe makes two hearty portions and is perfect for a brunch or supper dish. I have also made this with sweet potatoes and roasted pumpkin cubes which makes a great variation on this theme. As a vegan option try the wonderful chorizo sausages from Marks & Spencers Plant range. 

1 – 2 tsp extra virgin olive oil
1 onion , finely chopped
100g spicy chorizo sausages skinned and sliced
300g potato, peeled and diced into 1 cm cubes
200g celeriac, peeled and diced into 1 cm cubes (see preparation guide below)
100g kale, 2 – 3 good handfuls (we used red and green here)
1 – 2  tsp smoked hot paprika]
2 cloves of smoked or regular garlic, crushed (optional)
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to season

Heat the oil in a large pan with a tight fitting lid and add the onion and chorizo. Fry for 2-3 minutes without the lid until the chorizo has released its orange oils and add the potato and celeriac. Stir to coat the vegetables and then sauté with the lid on until they are cooked. Stir every few minutes to ensure they don’t stick to the bottom of the pan. This should take about 15 minutes. Meanwhile wash the kale and finely chop after removing the central tough vein (see below). We used a mixture of red and green but either one is perfect too. Once the potato and celeriac mixture is cooked turn up the heat and stir in the kale and the smoked paprika and garlic. Stir fry for 1-2 minutes until the kale has wilted. It will still be a little chewy which adds a lovely texture to the finished dish.

Adjust the seasoning and serve.

Preparing Celeriac

Preparing Kale

Kale is often slated for being tough and chewy. This is one of the reasons I love to grow my own because younger leaves are way more tender and digestible. However if you remove the tough central stems you will be have  a much better eating experience and benefit from this nutrition packed vegetable which adds fibre to the diet too!

Just a sharp knife here and a cutting board and you are good to go. I remove these thick stems whenever I use fully grown kale as even in a soup it can end up being chewy.

 

Gnocchi with Pistachio Pesto & Asparagus

Blog, Recipes

This is a recipe I created for Essence Magazine (now sadly out of print due to Covid) and it’s just delicious. Gnocchi develops a really interesting texture when you pan fry it rather than boil with a slightly crunchy exterior and a chewy middle. Ever since I discovered this way to prepare it, I have been a convert. Just whiz up a simple pesto, steam the vegetables and then you are good to go.

Ingredients

A large handful of fresh basil leaves
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
75ml olive oil, plus extra for frying
4 tbsp pistachio nuts, toasted plus a few extra for pistachios
50g mixed baby salad leaves, spinach or rocket
50g finely grated pecorino
1 x 500g pack fresh gnocchi
100g asparagus tips
100g trimmed green beans, halved
80g crumbled feta cheese
Crushed pink peppercorns for garnish (optional)

First make the pesto by putting the basil, garlic, olive oil, pistachios  and two-thirds of the salad leaves in a food processor; blitz to combine. Stir in the pecorino cheese and season.

Heat a large frying pan with a splash of olive oil, add the gnocchi and toss gently over a medium-high heat for 6-8 minutes until lightly golden. Meanwhile, steam the asparagus and green beans for 3-4 minutes until just tender; drain.

Add the leaf pesto to the gnocchi and toss together. Now stir in the asparagus and beans. Take the pan off the heat and add the remaining leaves. Divide between 2 plates and scatter over the rest of the pistachios and crumbled feta to serve. Add a final garnish of crushed pink pepper.

 

Bada Tapas

Blog, Restaurants, Reviews

Small plates of expertly created Korean fusion food are dispatched in style at Bada Tapas in a quiet side street in the heart of Godalming. Match this with impeccable service, friendly staff and a beautifully managed menu.

If you love Asian flavours, sharing plates and an altogether different dining style then this eatery is for you. Many of the dishes also have a seriously healthy vibe and the presentation is delightful. Think edible flowers, micro-leaves and delicately placed squirts of delicious flavour catapulting sauces.

Having lived in Asia for many years I grieved the lack of pan Asian dining when I returned home in 2005. I loved the fact that in Asian Cities like Singapore and Taipei you could find a great selection of fusion dining options that gave you amazing Asian cuisine but the setting of a more relaxed dining experience. I love street food but sometimes you want more than a small red plastic stool, floodlights and a melamine table to make your meal more of an occasion. This finally fills the gap here for me.

I saw Bada Tapas on instagram and I have followed them since they opened and was immediately intrigued by the idea of a tapas bar based around Korean cuisine but was not quite sure of the concept. I cannot for the life of me understand why it took me so long to visit but I am so very glad we did. In August this year I was looking for a light dinner and booked a table. From the minute we stepped in we were taken with the décor, layout, drinks menu and service. Water arrived immediately (infused with cucumber, lemon and fresh mint) drinks order taken and dispatched. Drinks served we are then taken on a swift tour around the restaurant concept by native Korean and owner Jihyun Kim who created and holds the concept together.

Jihyun came to the UK in 2005 to learn English at a language school in Central London after completing a degree in interior design back home. Living in Clapham she got a job in a Chinese restaurant to help pay for her stay. After two years she had planned to return home to South Korea and found she just was not ready to leave. Having mastered English she got a job at Habitat in the Kings Road in sales. By this time and pivotal to her story her relationship had become serious with her boyfriend and they decided to tie the knot. She had met her now husband Michal while working at the Chinese restaurant and in the meantime he had started working with a wholesale fish company who bought their stock from Billingsgate Market and distributed to restaurants and fish shops outside London and in particular in Surrey. When the Godalming fish shop one of his wholesale customers came up for sale Michal decided to take it on. It gave the couple a chance to move out of London too. One of the fish shops customers was a Spanish Tapas bar in Queen Street who had decided to close so the business was up for a new owner and Bada was born.

With no family history of the hospitality trade Jihyun and her husband decided to stick with the restaurants current theme of small plates but give it an Asian Fusion Twist. In Korea Jihyun explained,  families eat together with sharing plates so it was a concept that she understood. They also knew how a restaurant worked because of their experience together in London. Korean food has a lot of seafood and fish dishes integral to it so with Michal supplying the business they would have a fantastic advantage for many of their dishes. With Jihyun’s knowledge of interior design they managed to create a really stylish dining room from their small budget. They named the business Bada,  the Korean word for sea since so many of the dishes were based around fresh fish.

Now lets talk about the food, firstly the menu is based on tapas (small plates) so it’s a place to come and share if you want to. I have been to restaurants with friends who don’t like to do this and that would work equally well here too. The main printed menu is supported by seasonal specials on the blackboard. Specials are usually a fish, meat and vegetarian dish. The main menu is split into three sections with snack items appearing first. From more recognisable edamame beans (young green soybeans) steamed and served with a sprinkle of sea salt £4 to crisp lotus root crisps £4.50 or a plate of fresh rock oysters at £6 for 12.

The sharing plates menu (tapas) is split between fish, meat and poultry and vegetarian. For me the fish is the reason to come here. The freshest organic Scottish salmon marinated in teriyaki sauce is cooked to perfection and served with some al dente sugar snap peas £9 and from the specials board a fillet of sea bass on a green curry sauce £10. What sets these dishes apart is the super fresh fish which is beautifully executed in the kitchen. Presentation is faultless and it’s clear that Jihyun and her team really care about the food they serve plus it’s consistently good. Other specials might include gyoza style dumplings filled with slow cooked beef shin and a beetroot and wasabi sauce (gorgeous) £10 or roasted blue skin pumpkin with a satay sauce £9 satisfyingly spicy with a creamy finish. Going back to the main menu the pan fried scallops with a signature sauce £10 are not to be missed; served plump, tender and perfectly seasoned or the bulgogi and classic Korean dish of marinated beef in soy with carrots and mushrooms served in a lettuce leaf to pick up and eat £8.50. From the vegetarian side of the menu choose kimchi pancake or vegetable dumplings both £7.50 among a mouthwatering range of meat free options.

For accompaniments add sticky rice £4 or sweet potato fries £5.50 for fillers or soy cooked quails eggs £5, kimchi £4 or summer rolls £7, perfect if you are avoiding carbs. Taking younger people with you? then mention they have chicken katsu on the menu too at £7 and they’ll hop on board.

The drinks menu here is also carefully chosen. You’ll find familiar wines alongside Korean classics (rice wines and sake) there are no western style wines produced in Korea yet but that might change. Add a really interesting cocktail list with wasabi cucumber martini or a chili margarita. The Bada colada sounds intriguing too; a mix of rice wine with rum, pineapple juice and coconut all at £11 or choose from the Mocktail list at £5.50. Although I am a big fan of local a Japanese gin garnished with fresh ginger or Kombucha a slightly sparkling fermented tea also appeal.

There is a small dessert menu which is definitely worth your perusal. Their berry crème brulee is perfect. Creamy, but not over sweet and topped with a layer of fruit puree. Beautifully presented,  this dessert and all the food here is instagram perfection. Other puddings include adzuki bean (red bean) chocolate brownie with dark chocolate and dates. Very trendy ingredients plus its gluten free both at £6.50. You could also opt for Korean pancakes with peanuts. Fresh mint tea or barista coffees are also on offer to finish.

This is a restaurant that should definitely be on your radar. Everything here is prepared freshly from scratch and cooked to order apart from dishes like the slow cooked pork (delicious). This is a rare treat in a climate where high street chains dominate the casual dining scene. Go and support this feisty independent for its innovative menu and focus on serving superbly prepared fresh food.

Bada Tapas

10 Queen Street
Godalming
Surrey GU7 1BD

01483 527526

www.badatapas.co.uk

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Truffled Mushroom Pâté

Blog, Recipes

This is a recipe I have adapted from BBC Good Food Magazines November issue which really caught my eye. Their recipe works well and its really delicious but I wanted something without a high fat dairy component. I made a few tweaks here to create a vegan version. Make sure you use a really good truffle oil here an own label from a supermarket wont be good enough. The current bottle I have came from Village Greens Farm Shop in Ockley and it’s from the truffle hunter. 

Ingredients 

50g dried porcini mushroom

2 tbsp vegan butter 

3 shallots, finely chopped

250g chestnut mushrooms, finely chopped

2 garlic cloves, crushed

200g raw cashew nuts 

1⁄2 tbsp white wine vinegar

3 tbsp truffle oil

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Method 
  1. Put the porcini mushrooms in a bowl and pour boiling water over them. Leave to soak for 10 mins.
  2. Melt the vegan butter in a frying pan until foaming and fry the shallots over a low heat for 10 mins or until softened and translucent. Add the chestnut mushrooms and fry for 8 mins. Drain (reserving the liquid) and finely chop the porcini mushrooms, then add to the pan, frying for another 5 mins. Pour the porcini mushroom liquor over the cashew nut and leave to soak for 10 minutes.
  3. Tip the mushroom mixture into a food processor, along with the cashew nuts,            vinegar and seasoning. Blitz until smooth while drizzling in the truffle oil. Place in 6 ramekins or one bowl to serve. 

To serve as a canapé slice up a few mushrooms and place on a baking sheet. Brush with oil and season. Roast in a hot oven for 15 minutes and allow to cool. Serve on crispy sourdough crackers with a spoon of pate and a garnish I used micro leaves which I grew  and some radish crisps from Muji here. 

To serve as a starter use  ramekins and serve with a handful of freshly dressed salad leaves (lemon juice and oil work well here) and some freshly toasted sour dough bread.

 

 

Duke of Wellington East Horsley

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A re-imagined gastro pub with a creative menu and wine list, fantastic service and stylish décor, just a ten minute drive from Guildford. Expect delicious food, regular events such as live music, themed dinners and local socials for neighbours.

When I was invited to try the menu at this pub, which is part of the Peach Group I didn’t hesitate. With just two pubs in their growing collection in Surrey their portfolio includes another eighteen (many of them recently acquired) and all in market towns such as Oxford, Warwick and Birmingham. The other Surrey location is The Richard Onslow in Cranleigh, and it’s a favourite of mine .

Since I have lived in Guildford this pub had been crying out for new lease of life. It was a pretty run down and then it was reinvented with a BBQ themed menu. Poor reviews and a very American BBQ menu kept most of us away. Then in 2016 Peach took over. This is a business with a solid understanding of what ingredients you need to make a pub successful. They set to work and with a refurbished interior, creative menu with a mix of traditional and contemporary dishes on the seasonal menu and customers started to roll back in. Add to this a mix of local and imported beers, wines, spirits and real ales and the customer magnet has been switched back on.

What really sets this business aside is the staff, welcoming, helpful and professional its a totally refreshing element of the on site experience. In addition they all seem to really enjoy their jobs in an industry that is well known for long hours and low pay. Its no surprise that out of the ten awards on their website that five are for their employment practices. The Sunday Times ranked them at forty-five in their top 100 companies to work for last year.

The food here is fresh, beautifully presented from ingredients sourced locally and nationally. Head Chef Nic Baba embraces the seasons and although I ate from the spring menu the current summer menu ticks all the boxes too. They share the same core values of healthy eating (an important ethos on the menu) so expect to find plenty of fresh vegetables with your meal too. Sharing boards, hearty salads, extras to add to customise your plate and daily specials form the menu style here. Meat is from top butchers Aubrey Allen who also supply free-range chicken, Cornish lamb and free-range pork from Jimmy Butler. Known as the butcher to the stars you know that poultry, beef and pork here is going to be top notch.

We kicked off our meal with a modern take on a retro prawn cocktail and some ham croquettes served with a spiced tomato chutney. The cocktail was layered for effect and the combination of guacamole, prawns, tomato salsa and crunchy lettuce paired with some crunchy tortilla was delicious (an idea I have since copied for entertaining). The croquettes arrived piping hot with a spicy tomato chutney and local Secretts salad leaves. Crunchy on the outside and creamy and smoky in the middle it was the perfect start to our meal. Mains included pan-fried sea bass on a generous stack of new potatoes and tender stem broccoli and a super food salad with a extra of poached salmon. The fish was fresh and crispy ( source from Brixham day boats) and the accompanying vegetables and sauce without fault. The salad had a deliciously lemony zingy dressing and the perfect balance of pulses, leaves and grated vegetables. No feeling there that you were a second rate diner by choosing a salad plate so this gets a high score in my book.

Deserts had to be the lemon tart, a staple on menus in the 1990’s and an intriguing apple panna cotta. The lemon tart had a caramelised top, which gave way to an intensely lemony creamy filling on a light short buttery pastry – stunning. The panna cotta was really unusual with an apple jelly layer on top of the cream element. Freshly poached apple was served as a garnish. It felt lighter and good for you than I would have expected which is always a plus. We ended with fresh mint tea.

The food here is excellent and a credit to the Peach Group for creating another venue in Surrey that should be on your go to list.

01483 282 312

Guildford RD, East Horsley, Leatherhead, KT24 6AA

www.dukeofwellingtoneasthorsley.co.uk

 

Roast Spiced Chicken with Rosemary, Garlic, Sweet potatoes & Chilli Jam

Blog

This dish is raised a level when its made with really top notch free-range chicken and Etherley Farm Poultry fits the bill here. You can use any chilli jam with this but I love one with a Thai influence. Here is a link to the recipe.

Download a printable version of the recipe Spiced Chicken with Chilli Jam here.

The chicken:

1 tablespoon olive oil
1 dessertspoon smoked or sweet paprika
2 chicken breast portions, bone in and skin on
Smoked sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 red peppers, roasted for 20 minutes in a hot oven (see below)
2 dessertspoons chili jam

For the wedges:

600g sweet potatoes, peeled and cut into thick wedges or chips
1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
1 – 2 cloves crushed garlic
1 dessertspoon fresh chopped rosemary
Smoked sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

Place the potato wedges in a mixing bowl with the olive oil, garlic, rosemary & seasoning . Mix to coat the potatoes thoroughly then tip into a roasting pan.

Place the chicken portions on a chopping board and score diagonally 3 times across the top with a sharp knife. Combine the olive oil and paprika and rub over the entire surface of the chicken breasts and season. Place them in a roasting pan over the potatoes and place in a hot oven for 35-40 minutes with the red peppers. Remove the peppers after 15-20 minutes and place in a sealed bag to cool. When the chicken in golden and thoroughly cooked, remove from the roasting pan with potatoes and keep warm.

Make a little gravy by adding some water to the base of the roasting dish to release the juices. Thicken with a little cornflour (mix to a paste with water) and stir into the juices until cooked through.

Remove the peppers from the bag, peel, discard the seeds and cut into thick strips. Place a heap of potatoes on each plate and top with the red pepper. Place a chicken breast on top and dollop of chilli jam. Pour over some gravy and serve immediately. A lightly steamed stack of tender stem broccoli is a great partner to this dish.

Etherley Farm

Blog, Butchers, Farm, Farm Shop, Farmers Market, Food producers, local food shop, Local producer, Local products, Products, , , , , , , , , , ,

Etherley Farm, Leith Hill Lane, Ockley, Surrey, RH5 5PA

The upside: Ethically reared poultry and meat from a well run rural business with provenance.

The downside: Don’t expect a picturesque arrival this is a working farm.

The flipside: You can buy direct from the farm shop or from any of the markets they attend and several independent food retailers.

Driving to Etherley Farm near Dorking in the Surrey Hills is an adventure through some of the most beautiful countryside this county has to offer. As you arrive on the farm you can see open fields that are home to chicken, ducks, geese, turkey and sheep. There is nothing fancy here just a good old-fashioned farm slowly raising their stock in a healthy, natural environment. Sheep are a newer addition here and are the only animals not slaughtered on site for the butchery. Lamb, hogget and mutton are all available in season and much loved by their growing band of customers who love the quality and provenance of the products here. The fact that you can see the animals outside and how healthy they are is a big plus too.

I discovered Etherley farm through my friends over at Village Greens Farm Shop in Ockley. Just around the corner from their Coles Lane shop they directed me to Charlie (who heads up the team here) who not only sells direct to the public from the small butchery and produce shop, but also via a few retail outlets and farmers market (such as Ockley Farmer Market) in the county too. In addition they also supply some of the top restaurants in Surrey . At the time of writing Etherley Farm duck is on the menu at Michelin Star Chef, Steve Drakes new venture, Sorrel in Dorking.

Etherley Farm started life as a dairy farm in 1958 and continued to produce milk up until 2001. By that time membership of the EU and a common market policy saw a decline in the price paid for milk. In the years leading up to this, Richard (Charlie’s Husband) had already started producing poultry to supplement the farms dwindling income. Like many farmers they decided to pull out of milk production when the cost of producing it became higher than the price paid. Sadly they sold their dairy herd and started to get serious about rearing birds instead. It was around this time that Charlie and Richard got married and while he looks after the livestock Charlie runs the shop and does the markets. On the farm year round you will find chickens, ducks, geese and sheep. They have laying birds for eggs and birds destined for the table. In July 1,000 young turkeys arrive to live outside on the farm in a massive field to slowly mature for Thanksgiving and Christmas.

My first visit to Etherley Farm was around five years ago. At that time the farm shop was a shed with a couple of freezers in it. Not very appealing but because I had already sampled their chicken from Village Greens I knew it was really great quality with depth of flavour and texture. Thanks to a grant from Rural Surrey Leader they have been able to convert a derelict farm building into a new toilet and shower block for their campsite and add a new farm shop and on site butchery. This has allowed the farm to grow its core business and expand their range of products offered to the public. In addition to whole and jointed birds they offer a lovely range of prepared products such duck sausages, chicken , duck and turkey burgers. The duck sausages are apparently delicious with mash and sweet and sour red cabbage.

Their ethos is one of simplicity, with low intensity, low stocking rates and the minimal amount of additives to ensure healthy stock. Ducks (including laying ducks), turkeys and geese arrive as day old chicks and spend the first few weeks in their brooder and airy barns to develop and be strong enough to go outside. Both types of our chickens (laying and eating) arrive when they are a bit older. However, all the animals have the opportunity to roam around the fields. The turkey, geese and ducks here are really top end and its no wonder that they supply many local award winning butchers and restaurants too.

The newest addition to the farm, are sheep, a flock of 61 North of England Mules and two rams. Grass fed, they are outside all year round, apart from a short period during the lambing season when they need to be indoors for monitoring and extra food. Their aim is to finish the lambs on grass only which is always perceived to be the optimum process, however sometimes they may feed them for a short period of time to ensure a quality finish to the resulting meat. Some of the animals are kept beyond one year to produce hogget and mutton, which has seen a revival in the last few years. Cooked a little slower the meat is delicious and full flavoured.

All slaughter of poultry is done on the farm, which means the animals only have a short distance to travel, reducing the stress on the bird. All the butchery, plucking, preparation, making of sausages and burgers and packaging is also carried out onsite. Sheep however are taken to a local abattoir and then returned, to be butchered. One of the quality aspects of their turkeys, Charlie explained is that they dry pluck the birds which takes longer but extends the shelf life allowing the birds to be hung (like beef) for the flavour and texture to develop. Battery turkeys will be wet plucked (quicker) reducing shelf life and increasing water content making the meat dryer once its cooked.

Turkey’s Charlie says, make great pets, as they are very sweet and inquisitive birds. I asked her if she got attached to them and she laughed and said they have a built in death wish! Apparently they will eat anything that they see which could be bit of plastic, string or fabric, which often get blown onto the farm. The team have to diligently remove all items on a daily basis or run the risk of a fatality as they have an inability to deal with anything getting caught in their throats. So when it comes to doing the deed and getting them ready for Christmas Orders it’s a sigh of relief all round.

In addition to Village Greens you can also buy Etherley Farm birds from several award winning butchers in Surrey too, the list is on the website (details below).They also attend Ockley Farmers Market which started in March 2107 and is on the first Sunday of each month.

Why not support your local independent producer this Christmas by buying the main attraction of your celebration dinner directly from them. It’s a decision that has winners at both ends of the transaction.

Tel. 01306 621500

enquiries@etherleyfarm.co.uk

www.etherleyfarm.co.uk

Pork, Cranberry, Orange and Cointreau Tarts

Blog, Recipes

Makes 18 medium or 24 small

These tarts are perfect to serve as the festive season rolls in. Easy to make with the minimum fuss as you can take short cuts with ready rolled pastry and make the filling to freeze ahead of time. I used Seville Orange Marmalade Jelly for the glaze made by local Surrey producer Jam Packed but any sweet clear jelly will work such as quince, redcurrant or cranberry.

450g good quality sausage meat
1 small bunch of fresh thyme, finely chop half and retain the rest for a garnish
1 orange
1 x 300g pack of fresh cranberries
2 tablespoons Cointreau
2 tablespoons Seville Orange Marmalade Jelly
2 packs ready rolled short crust pastry
2 clementines or satsumas, peeled and broken into segments

Pre-heat the oven to 180 /Fan 160 / Gas 4

Mix together the sausage meat and chopped thyme. Grate the orange zest and then remove the pith from the orange and dice the fruit. Add the zest and fruit to the pork mix. Finely chop 180g of cranberries (I used a food processor) and add to the pork with 1 tablespoon of Cointreau. If the sausage meat has not been seasoned add salt and freshly ground black pepper.

Line 2 bun tins with pastry and add a spoon of pork mixture to each. Bake in a preheated oven for 25 minutes. While they are cooking make the topping. Place Seville orange jelly in a pan and allow to melt. Add the Cointreau, cranberries and Clementine segments and simmer for 4-5 minutes. Remove the mixture from the heat and cool slightly.

When the tarts are out of the oven spoon over the glaze. If you want the topping to sit flat on top of the tarts then use deeper muffin tray and make sure the filling stops two thirds up. . Garnish with sprigs of thyme and serve.

Thai style Tomato & Chili Jam

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I make a batch of this versatile relish every Christmas for canapés , cheeseboards and spicing up leftovers ! It’s a lovely hot spicy sweet concoction that is as good in a fried egg sandwich or on a gorgeous cheese board. This jam was featured in the Sugar Club Cookbook by Kiwi chef Peter Gordon who in the early 1990’s bought his brand of fusion cooking to London. He is still cooking up a storm at Providores his own restaurant in Marleybone High Street in London. I tweaked his original recipe to feature some of my favourite ingredients. Be sure to use proper Asian fish sauce not a supermarket own label which doesn’t deliver on flavour. On its own fish sauce smells pretty awful but it’s the essence of many Asian dishes and an absolute winner here!

Download a print version of the recipe Thai Chili and Tomato Jam here.

500g fresh vine tomatoes
4 medium size red chilies remove tough stalk and roughly chop
4 cloves garlic, peeled
50g fresh ginger, peeled and roughly chopped
30ml Asian fish sauce
300g coconut or palm sugar
100ml red wine vinegar
1 bunch green onions, washed & finely chopped

Method

Wash and roughly chop the tomatoes.

Puree half the tomatoes with the chilies, garlic, fresh ginger and fish sauce in a blender until smooth (the tomato seeds contain pectin and help the jam to set)

Pour the puree into a thick based saucepan and add the sugar and vinegar, bring to the boil slowly, stirring frequently.

Add the remaining tomatoes and green onions. Simmer the mixture over a really low heat for 1.5 hours skimming off any foam that develops. Stir regularly making sure the jam does not get stuck on the sides or base of the pan.

Towards the end of the cooking time prepare a jar to store. * Either 1 large (I litre) or a couple of smaller will do. Place a shallow dish in the oven set on low with about 2-3 cm of cold water in the base. Place the jars and lids in the dish and leave in the oven for 8-10 minutes. Pour the jam into the warm jars and cool to room temperature. When cool seal the jars and store in the refrigerator. The jam will keep for 3-4 months.

If you are making this for gifts use 6 smaller jars.

Ockley Farmers Market

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Rural Food Retailing in a Modern World

The upside: This is mostly undercover so English weather proof

The downside: Only on the first Sunday of each month!

The flipside: A chance to buy directly from local Surrey producers most of whom live close to the market

Surrey is a county of contrasts, which is part of its endearing appeal. Guildford where I live is full of designer shops smattered with a few independents and a small but growing fine food culture made so by the likes of Surrey Hills Coffee Shop, Partisan Deli and Canopy Coffee. But a lot of the great finds are ‘not on the high street’ and Ockley Farmers Market is a prime example. Situated between Dorking and Horsham it’s close to Leith Hill and the borders of Sussex and Surrey in some of the most stunning countryside that Surrey has to offer.

This market only started in April 2017 and it’s a collaboration between two Surrey hard core food heroes. Michaela and Neil Allam who are the producers of Surrey’s most famous cheese Norbury Blue and Dirty Vicar and James and Catherine Dampier of Village Greens (Farm shops in Coles Lane Ockley and Denbies Vineyard).

They have been selling on the farmers market circuit throughout Surrey since Michaela (who grew up on a farm) started making the cheese in 2001. Michaela met her husband Neil who was a watercress grower at one of the markets she attended and he joined the business when he said ‘I do’. Recently they moved into a house on Coles Lane in Ockley which came with the former Ockley Nursery. Situated next to Village Greens Farm Shop in Coles Lane was a great move. Farm shop owner James and Catherine Dampier have been selling Norbury Blue and Dirty Vicar in both their farm shops since they started their business 10 years ago. With a shared passion for the local artisan food movement and the fact that Village Greens sells their cheese they started to chat about working together. Village Green holds a food fair every September and last year for the first time it was held at the Ockley Nursery site. With even ground and cover it was a safer bet than the field opposite the shop particularly when you factor in our unpredictable English weather.

Neil and Michaela hosted Village Greens Food Fair in Autumn 2016 in a covered area on their land. As the food fair was such a success they decided to launch a monthly farmers market in collaboration with Village Greens. The location of the farm shop was perfect as it has already collected a handful of awards for its ‘local, natural & ethical’ ethos and many of the products sold are local too. Their aim was to create a regular event for the local food community.

In April this year the first Ockley Farmers market took place. It was a soft launch giving local producers an additional retail outlet to sell their produce. Now local here is an interesting term and there is a lot of debate around what this really means in food terms. Is it 5 miles, 10 miles or perhaps 50 miles? Everyone has a different view on this and a lot of the food festivals I go to seem to attract producers from all over England. But at Ockley local means local. Most of the traders here are within a 15 mile radius of the market and some literally less than a mile.

This market has its own unique personality. It isn’t like any other market I have been to in Surrey. Many of the traders come from farming families and producers who have been in the game for many years. They don’t necessarily have the business savvy, techie skills of city start ups who are whizz kids on social media and website design but they do sell real food in a chilled out environment. Its not wrapped up to be something it isn’t but it is good honest traceable food. Michaela of course sells her cheese while Neil mans the barbecue using sausages from nearby Home Farm who also have a stall. He also roasts a large pork joint supplied by them of which thick juicy slices are served in brioche buns. These are from Chalk Hills a fabulous artisan bakery who bring with them their wonderful sour dough breads, pastries, meringues & rolls.

Fresh coffee is served by local roaster Surrey Hills Coffee , who is based just down the road in Forest Green (with a coffee shop in Guildford too). Surrey Hills Coffee have made quite a name for themselves in the relatively short time they have been around. You can buy coffee from them to prepare at home or a freshly made cup to enjoy while perusing the stalls. There are lots of wonderful freshly baked pastries to go with this from Chalk Hills and if you want to sit and relax you can wander across the road and behind the car park you will find the ‘Bee Garden’ with seats and tables. On market and non-market days you can also buy Barista Coffee from the farm shop who use coffee from ‘Coffee Real’. This longer established brand have been ethically sourcing and roasting to perfection, single estate coffee from the most extraordinary small coffee producers globally. This element of the market is fantastic for the many keen cyclists who frequent the Surrey Hills. It’s a perfect pit stop with great food and drinks to recharge on a challenging cycle trip.

Other stalls include Jam Packed a small cottage industry business making traditional jams, chutney and piccalilli for their growing band of followers. Their tag line is ‘hand stirred in Surrey’ which after spending a lovely morning in their kitchen I can vouch is true. Big Blue Biltong is also a new start up selling a range of delicious, unctuous textured cured meat. A former chef at another local food hall he found his niche with his new range of products which are also on sale in the farm shop next door to the market. Olives and things complement the biltong for pre dinner nibbles. For a serious meal there are products from nearby Etherley Farm who are the closest producer to the market. They bring their free range poultry, duck, lamb, eggs and honey to the market. At Christmas their turkeys are top quality and sold by as many local butchers that can get there hands on their limited supply. You can also buy directly from them.

On the alcohol front beer is from a couple of local breweries and change from month to month but last time I was there it was Firebird Brewery. Well known locally they teamed up with Jam Packed who produced chutney featuring their beer. Silent Pool award winning local gin makers also attend this market with their growing catalogue of intriguing flavour mists, fruit cordials and seasonal specials.

There are around twenty stallholders at each market and I really urge you to go and this give one a visit. It’s a glimpse into the life of food producers who work really hard under adverse conditions to bring delicious products to the marketplace. You will leave feeling more connected to your food and the people who make it.

Ockley Farmers Market, Coles Lane, Ockley, RH

Facebook @OckleyFarmersMarket

Twitter @OCKELY_FM

www.VGFarmshop.com

This article previously appeared in Essence Magazine