Category Archives: Restaurants

Henry’s Grill

48 High Street, Esher, Surrey KT10 9QY

Sustainability is high on the menu here from British sourced ingredients to using local trades people plus utilising up-cycled fixtures and fittings!

The upside: Genuinely friendly staff and Members of the Sustainable Restaurant Association

The downside: The large menu might be off-putting but they do make almost everything in house here fresh to order including bread

The flipside: An independent business showing that sustainability and the economic pressures of running a restaurant can mesh!

It’s a real treat to review a business that is so keen to be green. The previous tenant at this venue in Esher was Daylesford Organic (prices apparently too high hence its demise) who lasted just ten months so I was keen to see what would replace it. Sadly the organic and sustainable fixtures and fittings were stripped out but no matter new owner Reza Amini has created his own unique space. A former civil engineer he started in the restaurant trade in 1996.

Henrys owner_manager9x6

The ethos here is set around three key areas; society, environment and sourcing. To fulfil this only local tradesmen are used and most of the materials used in the refit are from recycled sources. For example the tiles used under bar, and the table-tops and the wooden walls have been salvaged. On the menu examples of their commitment to sourcing meat comes from local farms in Herefordshire and free-range chicken from a farm in Windsor. Coffee comes from a local roaster in Surbiton and tea from English company Novus.

Arriving on a sunny lunchtime we sat near the big windows that had been opened up creating a gorgeous early summer breeze. The décor is predominantly wood with reinforcing messages of their goals. A welcome splash of colour comes from the retro bright red coffee machine. The decor is industrial with exposed pipe work and a mix of metal and wood. I suspect that in the winter this could be a dark space as the restaurant is a large rectangle with windows only at the front. For evening dining it’s probably perfect with overhead lights at each table.

My dining partner Libby and I decided to go for dishes from the main menu and the 2 course lunch menu (£9.90). Wild boar scotch egg with mustard mayonnaise caught my eye (£6.55) while Libby chose crostini with goats cheese and caramelised red onion.

henrys starters

The scotch egg was warm, flavoursome and in need of the mayonnaise which added an additional and complimentary layer of flavour. Meltingly hebryswatergooey goats cheese with sweet onions is hard to beat and the crostini was a hit. Pleased with our choice of starters we were given the perfect break before our mains arrived. We asked for tap water and were given filtered water in a recyclable bottle. This, the waiter added, was part of their commitment to sustainability. For mains I went for grilled piri piri chicken (£11.90) and my partner the chicken and wild mushroom risotto the second of her selection from the competitively priced lunchtime deal. The risotto was cooked to order, perfectly seasoned and with lots of chicken and vegetables. Libby said it was “the nicest thing I have tasted for a long time” compliments don’t get much better from an accomplished home cook. The chicken was for me, disappointing. The flavour of the piri piri delicious but the chicken had been re-heated and not cooked to order as I felt it suggested on the menu. I had ordered from the section entitled Churrasco Grill. The portion size was large (half a chicken) and I would have been happier with less meat but freshly cooked. The menu also offers burgers, moussaka, tagine and steaks. I found this confusing wondering what the house speciality might be. The accompanying salad was spot on with a good house dressing and the chips hot and chunky. I had asked for a salad instead of chips and Mario (our waiter) was extremely accommodating. He bought the chips along anyway as he had worked out we were there to do a review and thought we would like to try them! We did!

henrys mains

We still had room to sample a couple of desserts. Naively we ordered a tiramisu (£7.95) having been advised that all the deserts were made in house (bar the ice-cream) and a slice of lime cake (£5.25). The tiramisu is made for sharing and comes in a glass tower of bowls with tiramisu in the base a layer of set cream with berry compote and a scoop of berry sorbet. It’s a delicious and indulgent dessert but most of all each element as good as the next. The lime cake couldn’t compete here but it was light and tasty and if we hadn’t been so impressed by our glittering tower of dessert loveliness it might have gotten more attention.

henrys dessert

This independent is a great addition to the eating out scene in Esher, hosts themed evenings and has live music at the weekend. Customers have been known to dance into the wee hours after learning their moves at dance classes held here one morning each week. The team here are certainly working hard to fulfil their admirable ambitions and I hope it pays off!

henrys wall_9x6

 

www.henrysgrill.co.uk

01372 460603

 

Yumn Brasserie

66-71 Southend, South Croydon, CR10 1BF

A slick newcomer in the up-and-coming South End restaurant quarter of Croydon serving classy east west food in an interior designed space

The upside: Expertly executed, Western and Asian dishes from Yumn’s Indian chef who trained in classic French cuisine.

The downside: I wish I lived a bit closer; it’s a bit of a hike for dinner from Guildford.

The flipside: This is a restaurant with vision taking apprentices into the kitchen for full training and they make everything they serve from scratch.

First off the décor here is stylish – it’s clearly been interior designed too a high standard. Cleverly laid out areas for couples, larger parties and even a private dining room has been carved out in this large room. A large bar with seating offers another alternative.

YUMN brasserie interiorOnce seated water was served almost immediately and the menu not long after. Now the menu immediately concerned me (unnecessarily as it turned out) because it had an obvious East/West theme and it was large. We’ll come back to that later!

My sister and I decided to eat off both sides of the menu to see if they could pull this off here. Ordering up two starters I chose spicy chick-peas on a crispy puri (£4.95) and my sister scallops with hummus and beef vinaigrette. Both our choices were original, innovative and intriguing – so far so good. While awaiting the starters some warm from-the-oven sun-dried tomato bread arrived with butter. The waiter confirmed it was made on site and it was a perfect start to our experience.

Our starters arrived plated with care. My chick-peas were on a delicate crispy puri, topped with lightly dressed salad leaves on seasoned raita. I really enjoyed this but, as a spice-loving girl, it could have been hit with even more cumin and chilli. The scallops were fresh, fat and succulent. The beef vinaigrette was innovative and blended with the smooth humus and crunchy pistachio nuts. Here, the attention to detail is good.

YUMN starters

For mains again we took a dish from each side of the menu, my herb crusted hake was hot, fresh and with crispy skin over tender flesh, served on top of Dauphinoise potatoes with a herby beurre blanc. This was a balanced, seasoned dish (£14.95). Our other choice was lemongrass chicken with rice and prawn crackers (£12.50) it was aromatic, flavoursome and freshly cooked with tender chicken pieces and creamy sauce. By now we were very impressed. The menu has plenty of choice too, from grilled meat, fish and burgers on their fancy Josper Grill ( a closed charcoal grill ) to lighter salads and pasta. Wine recommendations come with each dish too and the list itself is well priced with plenty of choice.

YUMN mains

We hardly had room for pudding but decided it would be rude not to share something from the dessert menu and chose the pineapple tarte tatin with pina colada ice-cream (£6.50) although the creme brulee and sticky toffee pudding were also tempting.The dessert was light crispy and perfectly accented by the expertly made ice-cream. This we concluded is a professional outfit with top attention to detail. I had mint tea to finish from the Rare Tea Company (£2.20) and my sister a coffee supplied by Coffee Torelli (£2.40).

YUMN pudding

Joined by owner Kulsum Hussin for dessert we discovered that she grew up in a family of restaurateurs. Although trained as an accountant, a restaurant of her own was always the dream. Education it appears is also top of the agenda and is the reason behind the fabulous hand made breads, patisserie, pastries and sauces that emerge from Yumn’s kitchen. The restaurant is a training centre currently with three local apprentices. In 2003 Kulsum launched Welcome Skills in Bangladesh with the University of West London. A training provider of British qualifications such as NVQs to empower people to gain skills that are in short supply in the hospitality industry. Her current head chef from Bangladesh started in her training centre back home before coming to the UK. With a stunning CV under his belt (Conran restaurant, Hotel du Vin and G Hotel Galloway) he has the ability to run a menu with ease that crosses continents. With a strong kitchen team, on the job training and a dedication to excellence this business has it all.

This venue is already doing a roaring trade in the evening and weekends where you need to book ahead but lunchtimes are less so. It’s worth a visit even if it’s a bit of trip from home.

 

0208 861 2336

www.yumnbrasserie.co.uk

 

The Cock Inn

Cock Inn Mark EvansChurch Lane, Headley, Surrey KT18 6LE

New gastro pub by dynamic independent food and drink family Red Mist 

The Upside: Great food and drink menu with a positive lean towards seasonal and local on both counts

The downside: A little inconsistency in dishes served on my recent visit

The flipside: This is a pub group with high standards so it’s likely that any teething problems will get swiftly sorted

Driving through some classic Surrey countryside the arrival at this newcomer to the Red Mist Group is full of anticipation! Some of you will already know the Queens Head in East Clandon (my local) and the Stag in Eashing Lane near Milford. If you do, it will come as no surprise that this venue has been treated to the same quality facelift as the other members of this growing family. A large working fireplace creates a focus to the bar room and the outside area has a deck for additional seating in good weather. They have shared menus within the chain but allow chefs to strut their own personal style with the ‘specials’. The PR team had told me that Head Chef, Mark Evans had spent a lot of his early career down-under so I was looking forward to an Antipodean influence on the menu.

cock in starter

I met up with fellow foodie Sally Iddles and as we perused the menu it felt familiar (we are both regulars at their other venues) but not identical. The specials menu, while lacking any promised Aussie vibe had fresh clams in white wine as a starter (my choice at £7.90) served with toasted Chalk Hills focaccia. We also selected the camembert and asparagus tart with roast tomato relish (£6.95). Fresh soup of the day was leek and potato (£5) served with bread and we already know the chicken liver paté with chutney (£7.90) is a winner. My clams were fresh, plump and cooked to perfection. They arrived at the table piping hot and with a surprise squeeze of fresh lemon. The bread on the side, although toasted, softened willingly in the clam broth. Whilst I was charmed with my starter the Camembert tart was failed to wow A moulded pastry case had been simply filled with camembert and left in the oven to melt. Topped with rocket leaves and served with a drizzle of basil oil and what seemed to be red onion jam and no sign of the asparagus.

camembert tart

For mains we ordered again one dish from the printed menu and the other from the specials board. My pork fillet with apricot and sage stuffing on fondant potato, stem broccoli, rhubarb chutney and Hazy Hog jus (£15.50) was a generous portion and plated with confidence. In contrast the fish from the specials board lacked finesse both in its presentation and execution. Torbay sole served with prawn and caper butter (£17.90) sounded like a great combination and the fish was served on the bone (which was good) but lacked the back-up attitude that capers can contribute. The poorest element was the crushed new potatoes that were overcooked. The fish itself was perfectly cooked, delicate and fresh and my pork dish was tender, tasty and melt-in-the-mouth.

main at the cock

Not deterred we moved on dessert selecting a baked cheesecake with vanilla ice-cream and a pannacotta (both £5.95). The cheesecake looked as though it could have been bought in but we were reassured that it had been made on site. Not oversweet it confirmed the ‘homemade’ label which was a definite ‘plus’ . The texture was firm and creamy but we both felt the accompanying ice-cream was an odd match. This was very sweet with a metallic twang and spoilt the overall taste profile. The panna cotta was served in its dish and too firm for my liking. Pannacotta is usually served out of its mould and should have real ‘wobble’ leading to a easily yielding creamy texture. We had coffee to finish and concluded that there had been some great elements to our meal.

cock in desserts

Chatting to Chef Mark Evans it was clear they are finding their feet in their new venue. I really like this small independent chain and love the fact they have local beer, use local products like Norbury-Blue Cheese (the only cheese made in Surrey), and prepare the majority of food from scratch in each venue. Mark is keen to bring in some of his culinary creativity from down-under but feels the business has to consolidate before they shake things up. He is, in his own words ‘playing-it-safe’.

It’s early days for this pub-dining venture and if they can iron out the wrinkles I am sure it will become as popular as their other dining rooms.

cockinnheadley.co.uk

01372 377258

red mist family

 

 

Araceli’s

Eat Surrey is delighted to announce that Araceli has opened their first restaurant in Woking and of course the food is as good as ever!

16 Commercial Way, Woking GU21 6ET

Authentic Hispanic street food produced by a native Mexican in the heart of Woking

ARICELI

The upside: Soft overfilled burritos, crispy tacos and cheesy nachos

The downside: They close at 9pm and on Sundays and Bank Holidays!

The flipside: This lovely independent has a made a smooth move selling from a van to a proper location in Woking!

Surrey isn’t really known for its street food so when a dedicated food friend told me about this Mexican I knew it deserved a visit. This colourful mobile unit fills one end of this slightly dreary market, like a desert oasis. Outdoor tables are set out with vibrant patterned cloths and the van itself with its large signs and menu boards stands out a mile. The market is being developed and although Ariceli didn’t get a stall in the new market walk she has a better venue in Commercial Way. With a proper kitchen and a squeaky clean venue its better than ever!

ariceli woking

The menu revolves around pulled meats marinated and cooked freshly every day. There are traditional Mexican recipes, for example, chicken with smoky chipotle and tomato. There’s also pork seasoned with orange and spices cooked overnight in a banana leaf plus brisket with traditional spices. Add to this, rice, black beans, guacamole and sour cream and the flavours start to build. Pica de Gallo, which is a mix of finely chopped onion, tomato, fresh coriander and Zaca Zaca (a hot chilli sauce) end the assembly line. Vegetarians don’t miss out here with a mix of caramelised onions, mushrooms, peppers and cheese. How, I pondered, did this Mexican food find its way to Woking?

Araceli spared a few minutes to share her story. After finishing her training as a lawyer in Mexico City she soon realised that this was not the life was not for her. So she followed her love of cooking and started making tacos and burritos, delivering them to offices at lunchtime. Her business thrived but falling in love and marrying a British expat eventually bought her here. Building on the success of her first business she decided to set up shop in Woking.

aricelis_trio

On each of my visits there has been a constant stream of customers, arriving on foot and by bicycle. There is a buzz of acknowledgement that this is a cool place to pick up lunch. Portions are generous and even though I opted for a Naked Burrito (£5.50) with Cochinita Pibil (pulled pork) served minus the soft wrap, the rice, beans and meat made a satisfying healthy lunch. My daughter had a Chicken Burrito (10”, £5 or12”, £5.50) and loved the additions of guacamole, sour cream and the Pica de Gallo giving depth to each mouthful. The wrap is tightly secured with foil keeping it warm while you eat and stopping it falling apart – high risk since they pack to the maximum.

ariceli duo

ariceli menu

All the pulled meats are cooked until they are melt-in-the-mouth which is perfect for the format. We also shared a portion of nachos. These light corn tortillas were sprinkled with cheese and heated then topped with the same sauces used for the burritos. They were moreish – the melted cheese with the crispy chips were hard to resist. My carnivorous teenage son went for the 12″Beef Burrito (£6.00) and polished it off demanding a return visit ASAP. We’d had tacos on a previous visit and can vouch for them too. This is delicious, healthy fast food and a real Woking asset.

With their new venue up and running they are looking to expand the menu for evening dining as they also have a licence! Keep up to date with them on facebook and twitter (links on the website)

www.aracelis.co.uk

 

 

 

Eliza’s Tea Room


elizas
Hurst Farm, Chapel Lane, Milford, Surrey GU8 5HU

An established lunch and afternoon tea destination benefitting from a recent facelift and change of management

The Upside: Charming cakes, comforting soups, inspired savouries and freshly baked scones.

The Downside:  Lunches are from 12-2.30 and the tea-room shuts at 4.30pm everyday.

The Flip-side: Lovely company creating unique food and local employment.

Tips: Leave plenty of time to mooch around Secretts Farm Shop too. They have an eclectic stock with some intriguing finds.

When word on the street filtered through that Suke and Tom Wibaut (owners of Butter and Cream) had taken over Eliza’s Tea Room it was welcome news. Situated right next to the entrance of Secretts Farm Shop this venue had been inching its way towards a fresh start for a while. Tired décor and a menu as old as some regulars had contributed to its fading star status.

elizas eggsAt the moment changes here are small but visible to those in the know. Appreciating the loyal following the tea-room still has, firm favourites such filled baked potatoes have, for now, remained. New more contemporary menu items are being slowly added while Tom (a carpenter by trade) has refitted and restyled the serving area. Now there is plenty of room for a shiny new coffee machine and a large display area for gorgeous cakes (£3.00 a slice) and freshly baked scones (Cream teas from £5.45). For the more adventurous diner the specials board features seasonal bakes, tarts and home-made soups. Previously some of the food on offer was bought in so it’s delightful to see many more dishes being prepared on site from fresh produce some of which is local.

elizas 4

Having photographed the new menu for Suke I already had a sneak preview of the changes here. Designer sandwiches with interesting fillings, fresh soups with classy garnishes and great new breakfast menu. A few weeks later I popped in for lunch with my daughter. We sat with our backs to the specials board and ordered off the main menu but were lucky enough after chatting to the chef sample what was on offer . The beetroot, sweet potato and celeriac gratin had a subtle spicy earthy flavour, complimented by the sweetness of the potato which lent itself to the creamy texture . The roasted tomato tart was housed in a perfect short crust case and the rich yellow custard complimented the savoury-sweet tang of the roasted tomatoes (both (£7.95 with salad).

eliza's trio

Having chosen from the main menu my daughter loved her classic tuna filled potato. This is a combo that seems to have beaten off the competition over the years, canned tuna mixed with mayonnaise, lemon juice and a few twists of black pepper in a piping hot oven baked spud. The oven baking of course develops a delicious skin and is a far superior being to those lazily blasted in a microwave. I opted for a new menu item; salad of roasted beetroot and butternut squash served over Secretts leaves and finished with chunks of fresh goats cheese (£8.25). The leaves had been tossed in a light, balsamic and olive oil dressing before serving, lending a refreshing tangy edge to each bite. The beetroot and squash were served warm making each cheese-laden mouthful one to savour.

After a busy morning and tasty lunch we still had room for a scone and a slice of gluten free almond cake all made by Suke’s team at Butter and Cream. The almond cake was moist and nutty and the scone would have got 10/10 from even the most old school Home Economics teacher. There is also a new breakfast menu which really comes in to it’s own on Sundays where you can enjoy cook to order French toast, American pancakes with maple syrup which compliment creamy scrambled eggs and omelettes.

Changes here mark a positive new era in the life of this Tea Room and it’s definitely worth a visit. Put it on your go to list!

Visit their facebook page here

01483 520525

elizas cakes 9x6

The Lakeside Restaurant

School of Management, University of Surrey, Guildford, Surrey GU2 7XH

A training restaurant that is open to the public and part run by studentsdessert trio

The upside: Delicious healthy food competitively priced between 12-2pm Monday – Friday

The downside: Ring in advance before you visit; the restaurant sometimes hosts special events for the university and is closed to the public

The flipside: Holding an ‘eat out, eat well’ award from Surrey County Council means health is top of the bill here.

Teaching at Surrey University this academic year has involved an occasional lunch with speakers in the training restaurant.  It is fair to say the Lakeside’s professional team could give any local restaurateurs a run for their money. Lakeside provides a valuable experience for students learning the mechanics of how a real restaurant operates. Supported by three full time chefs, a manager and academic staff it provides support and confidence to students at the beginning of their careers. You might find the service a little shaky at times but it isn’t so different some of the experiences you can have had in the ‘real world’. Here, at least, students will be guided and mentored. By graduation they will have a good grasp of how to work in this challenging and growing industry. All students spend time at front and back of house and in their final year get to run the restaurant for the day. Menu planning, profit margins and service quality are all part of their assessment. These students aren’t training to be chefs but managers of the future. Hands on both in the kitchen and front of house experience, are essential to this.

The menu, which changes regularly, includes light bites at £5 a plate, a two-course lunch menu at £10.00 and à la carte (starters from £3.75 and mains from £9.25). Side orders such as steamed tender stem broccoli are a snip at £2.50 and portions are perfectly sized. Everything is made in house including bread, ice cream, biscuits and chocolates. Food is seasonal and locally sourced too; meat from Conisbee, salad leaves from Secretts and fish from sustainable sources.

lakeside_triostarters_

Visiting recently with colleagues, Lakeside proved how creative the food can be. Starters included prawn, avocado and red pepper tian (£4.75) a frisky combination of perfectly ripe avocado, sweet chargrilled red pepper with a tangy sauce. My colleague chose brandy flamed Catalan style clams in a tomato broth (both authentic and flavourful). The pomegranate and feta salad with sprouting seeds, honey balsamic and pumpkin seed dressing (£4.25) was crunchy, fresh and healthy even though the nutty sweet-and-sour dressing made it feel indulgent. The effort that goes into the dressings and added extras elevates and inspires.

For mains the fragrant Chinese pork with aubergine with vegetable fried rice (£11.25) reminded me of eating the best Asian street food. The aubergine was cooked to melt-in-the-mouth perfection. Pheasant supreme wrapped in bacon and served with vegetables coated in hazelnut and shallot vinaigrette (£12.50) was artfully served to my colleague and I was assured by the empty plate that this was as good as they claimed. The poached chicken with mango stuffing (£10.75) didn’t have the same presentational ‘wow factor’ but this creative combo of tender chicken breast and a delicate sweet stuffing worked well.

mains_lakeside

rasberry_icecream6x9We couldn’t resist the pudding menu and between us chose a zingy intensely fruity raspberry  sorbet and a rich vanilla icecream (both £3.75) and a dessert of the day, a combination of poached and fresh fruit with fresh cream and berry coulis (£4.75).

In addition to special events in the university the venue can also be booked for weddings and other special events out of term time. When I went to meet the team they were getting ready to give a chefs demonstration of modern smoking methods. This was part of a menu including deconstructed dishes such as beef wellington and apple pie. The creativity here gives the full time chefs a chance to shine too.

lakeside_chefs

Don’t be put off by the location of this restaurant. It serves innovative food at competitive prices with a menu change every month and it’s open all year round.

Just make sure you check availability in advance!david_chocolate-SCULPTURE

Lakeside website

01483 68 9655

Toby Cottage Restaurant

toby_cottage_exterior High Street, Ripley, GU23 6AF

 A charming, old-fashioned restaurant with a contemporary twist

 Go there for: Retro classics, heaps of fresh vegetables and flambé specials.

Avoid: Being influenced by the website, which suggests a more modern vibe.

Is it worth the calories?: You get a well-balanced plate here.

Tips: This is perfect for those who appreciate service and a dessert trolley.

Toby Cottage welcomes you to the food culture of the 1970s (the good bits), the era it opened. The sixteenth-century oak-beamed interior may be intact but subtle changes to the menu and a change of ownership have ensured its continued existence.

Classic flambé dishes Crêpes Suzette and Steak Diane are firm fixtures alongside a heaving dessert trolley.  Our amusing waiter Daniel (the flambé expert) was happy to tell us he’s been waiting tables here for 22 years – a rare loyalty that we saw as a jolly good sign. Choosing from the lunch menu (3 courses for £19.50 or 2 courses for £15.00), we kicked off with a tapas-style starter of chorizo cooked in red wine with olives. The chorizo was spicy and tender, suggesting authentic, quality ingredients. The plump olives added a satisfying richness to the piquant sauce. We used the fresh bread from our basket to mop it up. It was to good to see melba toast here too, another nod to a former culinary era.

toby_cottage_trio_1

We shared the starter so were ready to wade into our substantial mains. My calves’ liver was cooked pink as requested; and although the gravy may have had a run in with the gravy browning it was robust and complemented the meat. The crunchy bacon added texture and saltiness to the dish. My daughter’s salmon was perfectly cooked: moist, fresh and flaky and enhanced by a knob of herb butter and a heap of fresh rocket. The meal was fully elevated when the fresh vegetables arrived. These had clearly been cooked to order, arriving vibrant in colour and steaming.

toby cottage_main_dessert_trio

We so enjoyed our lunch that we decided to share a light dessert from the trolley of pudding heaven. Our crème caramel had been cooked in a slightly hot oven but had the ‘we made it from scratch’ flavours of a proper pudding. It wasn’t too sweet and had just the right amount of eggy resistance on the tongue. We could have gone for any of the chocolaty creations, a summer jelly or a fresh-fruit salad – perhaps next time.

Here you feast on more that just food. For me it brought backs lots of memories of eating out with my parents. My dad, who hated the pretention of modern fine dining (which I love), would have felt at home, particularly as he liked having food cooked for him at the table. Few waiters are trained to do this now.

When Spaniards Tony Trias and Tony Trillo bought The Toby Cottage as a going concern they decided that change was unnecessary.  With an established clientele and brisk trade this seems to have paid off; six years later they are pleased with the addition to their portfolio. Their ethos is to buy top-quality ingredients – Smithfield for meat and a fish supplier who delivers daily. Their regulars love Dover sole, sea bass and lobster from the à la carte menu.toby cottage_9x6

They don’t like to experiment too much with food here and that seems to be their selling point. However you will find some more modern classics (scallops and pea purèe) alongside more traditional dishes. If you can get past the Toby jugs and dated décor, it’s worth giving this eatery a try. I’m glad I did.

www.tobycottage.co.uk

Tel: 01483 224225

Shirlee Posner
Text and images Shirlee

 

 

Green Rooms of Godstone

 Plum Cake Corner, Needles Bank, Godstone Green, Godstone, RH9 8DZsylvia_jeremy_godstone

 A super friendly café serving satisfying home cooking with a quirky edge

Upside: Sylvia’s eyelash-curling lemon drizzle cake and other baked delights.

Downside: Its a trek for me from Guildford but one I am prepared to take!

Flipside: This years (2015) award winner for best cafe in Surrey from Surrey Life Magazine!

Tips: On a sunny day you can eat al fresco, with a lovely view over the green.

green_rooms9x6

Sylvia met Jeremy when he worked at her family’s bakery. One thing led to another and they are now legally united with three lovely kids. The Park Bakery where their romance started was a legend in Wandsworth, serving locals and celebrity chefs for 32 years. Foodies who fell in love with miniature meal canapés from finger-food queen Lorna Wing (mini burger buns, bagels and other tiny delights) will be impressed to learn that they were made for her in this bakery. When Sylvia’s dad retired they wanted a fresh start out of London. They happened upon the Green Rooms; luckily they have the right mix of great home cooking and personality to make it a success.

godstone_soupSylvia is in charge of the kitchen and Jeremy does front of house. Charming and relaxed, he makes everyone feel at home. My son opted for the all-day breakfast (£6.95). Everything was freshly cooked to order – and local. Sausages and bacon come from Flower Farm Shop down the road and eggs are local too. The panini with goat’s cheese and caramelised onion (£5.95) was tempting, as was the Cumberland sausage and baby-spinach leaf sandwich (£4.95) but I was in the mood for soup. Sylvia had freshly made mushroom soup (£5.95); instead of bread I had a spinach salad with a tasty homemade balsamic dressing on the side. It was creamy, earthy, flavour-packed and delicious. The food ethos here is ‘humble, rustic and honest’: Sylvia’s words but I can vouch for their veracity. Refreshingly, these restaurateurs are happy to accommodate patrons’ preferences.

Whilst enjoying your meal, peruse the cookbooks on the shelves, which provide inspiration for the menu, or take a look at some of the unusual vinyl toys Sylvia collects. The décor here is a quirky mix of country-style and hip city café, bringing a bit of London edginess to Surrey.

godstone_green_rooms_interioR_SHOT_9X6

Last time I popped in for a coffee they had just launched their summer menu, which included salmon fish cakes with salad and pasta pesto with chicken (both £8.95). They also do a homemade tomato and vegetable sauce for paste penne (£4.95, which kids love) from a secret family recipe.

Sylvia’s started baking with her dad when she was eight, so it’s not surprising that she’s a dab hand. I sampled lemon drizzle, which is eyelash curling in a good way (£2.95 per slice), and whoopie pies (£2.45) – who can resist two delicious sponge discs held together with fresh cream? Other homemade treats include white chocolate cake, rocky road and cream teas with clotted cream and freshly baked scones. Following in her father’s footsteps Sylvia will also create a teatime feast of miniatures for your party (book in advance). Try a full spread of mini filled bagels, sandwiches, cakes and other gorgeous finger foods for a really special treat (£19.50 per person).

jgodstone_trio

The menu here is evolving and Sylvia and Jeremy are keen to listen to their customers and try new things.  They hold barbeques, supper evenings and other events: like their facebook page to see what’s coming up next.

www.greenroomsofgodstone.co.uk

Facebook page

Tel: 01883 740 407

The Olive Tree

The Olive Tree, Sutton Green Road, Sutton Green, Surrey, GU4 7QDOlive Tree interior

A haven of comfort and good food just a short drive from Guildford

Go there for: Local meat and fresh seafood in the stylish dining room or bar food on comfy sofas around an open fire.

Avoid: Vegetarian options: not always a good choice here.

Is it worth the calories?: The desserts are excellent so consider raising the bar on your recommended daily intake.

Tips:  Close to Guildford with a decent car park and good food, this pub is popular so book at weekends.

Stepping into this pub is like visiting a friend who really knows how to accent their home. It’s comfortable, welcoming and professionally run. In addition to a full bar and a la carte menu they offer bowls of olives and nuts (from Olives et al) to complement their carefully selected drinks catalogue – what a great idea.

This is Gill and Rupert Ponsonby’s third pub in Surrey and they feel they have made their mark here. Rupert heads up the kitchen and Gill manages front of house. Food can be ordered from the dining room à la carte menu or from a less formal blackboard with daily specials. They source their meat locally and fish comes in daily. They like to follow the seasons and game was just about to hit the menu. Rupert said regulars often order lobster and seafood platters for two in advance. A sharing platter of mixed shellfish including scallops, lobster and prawns is £40.80; the Côtes de Boeuf, a double rib of beef with trimmings, is £45.00. A beef platter arrived for our neighbours: impressive, but what a lot of food!

I was a little surprised when my grilled lamb and Greek salad (£14.95) arrived: the generous pile of meat had been unceremoniously plonked on top of the salad leaves. As this was served in a bowl I would have expected the lamb to be more thinly sliced.

Lamb salad, blueberry and lemon cheesecake and fishcakes

However, the meat was tender and delicious (although a little awkward to cut) and the salad with feta a great match. The salmon fishcakes (£10.50) were a hit, with the right balance of mash to the fresh pink salmon and the chunky chips piping hot and crisp. The blueberry and lemon cheesecake (£5.80) was creamy and intensely citrusy, balanced by the fruitiness of the blueberries; a swish of cream gave just enough moisture for the perfect mouthful.

On a return visit we sampled a steak with salad (£14.95) and a vegetarian dish. The steak was tender, tasty and faultless and the salad fresh and well dressed.  However the cashew-nut roast from the blackboard menu had huge potential but was distinctly underwhelming. It was served with roasted vegetables on a gorgeous orange red pepper sauce but the roast was modest in size and lacked both personality and cashew nuts. It just wasn’t great and at £10.50 a bit cheeky. Luckily we had room for pudding. The fresh red-plum crumble with vanilla ice-cream (£5.80) tasted of late summer, was comforting, warming and redeemed our spirits. It was a Greg Wallace moment: he would have loved it too.

Steak, plum crumble and smoked haddock risotto

The couple on the next table were tucking into a smoked haddock risotto and beef stroganoff. They had just moved to Guildford and found the pub by chance. They thought their food was delicious and we agreed that that the pub, the setting and food are good enough for a return visit.

The Olive Tree

01483 729999

Text and Images Shirlee
Text and Images Shirlee

Tanhouse Farm Shop

Tanhouse Farm Shop, Rusper Road, Newdigate, Surrey, RH5 5BXOutdoor covered seating area

 A stylish little farm shop and café selling their own cakes and pies alongside select groceries.

 Go there for: Lovely savoury pies, cakes and soups made with local produce and their own free-range meat.

Avoid: Ignoring this venue: even if it’s off your beaten track this little gem won’t disappoint.

Is it worth the calories? Pies are a sensible size and salads generous so they have the balance just right.

Tips: The farm sells its own jams and honey: great for unique foodie gifts. Or call in for a takea-way pie and coffee.

What a treat to find this farm shop and café just as my internal lunch bell rang. The vibrant covered outdoor seating area overlooks over the playground so you can keep an eye on your brood while they play. Inside, you can peruse the shelves while enjoying a home-cooked treat or two from the kitchen. They are big on traditional cooked breakfasts here and serve delicious pies and pasties for lunch, complemented by a selection of salads.

Their chicken and wild mushroom pie (£6.50) is a world away from commercial imposters with pale gloopy middles. Here a handsome pastry encases free-range chicken chunks and flavour-packed mushrooms in a light creamy sauce. A portion of roasted Mediterranean vegetable salad and some green leaves turns the meal into a balanced plate. Home-made soup with bread (£4.85) also makes a delicious lunch.

Wild mushroom and chicken pie, play area and tea with florentine slice

The cakes were all saying ‘eat me’ but I was tempted by the lovely Florentine slice (£2.50), a layered affair of shortbread topped with caramel, fruit and nuts.

Sausage rolls and pasties, scotch eggs, meat from the freezer and carrot cakes

All the food served here is made by a team of chefs who also manage outside catering events such as weddings plus preparing hampers for those enjoying the local fishing.

Tanhouse honeyThey serve Higher Nature tea and single estate coffee from Coffee Real, craft roasters situated just behind the farm. Luckily you can buy their ethically sourced and expertly roasted coffee in the farm shop to take home too. They sell a small range of jams, chutneys and marmalade produced on site plus honey from their own hives. A bank of freezers house their free-range Aberdeen Angus beef, lamb and Gloucester Old Spot pork; I made a gutsy cottage pie from their minced beef (£5.13 for 750g). Potatoes and seasonal vegetables from the farm are on sale when in season. They also sell old-fashioned sweets in jars and a few really useful items like liners for food-waste bins.

Located in some of the prettiest Surrey countryside, it’s a joy to travel to this lovingly thought out little café.

01306 631 891

www.tanhousefarmshop.co.uk